Rusky

awright y'all! I have peiced together a system and I'm ready to install. I have a 50x4 xTant A4004t ready to power two sets of Polk DB6500's. An alpine CDA-9807 will provide the signal. I will be adding a sub (or two) and second amp when I have some cash.

My amp requires:
4 guage power and ground
12 guage speaker wire

I'll also need two sets of RCA cables and a sub RCA.

That's going to account for some thick wire to run! I want to make sure I don't pick up alternator noise or NPR AM on the speaker wires or RCA (interconnects).

SoundDomain.com appears to have some good deals. Are Phoenix Gold wires high quality? What about Rockford Fosgate?

I don't care at all what they look like. My goal is to install everything as invisibly as possible. This is not a competition system but I have very critical ears and expectations.

I still haven't decided on sub choice or sub amp. The XTant is so pretty and well built I wanted to get a second but they are gone

This forum has been so helpful in deciding what to buy I can't even begin to explain. I got some excellent, practical, specific and intelligent advice from several members. You rock!

Thanks

Scott P

I just posted this in another thread but it is worth repeating: go to your local walmart and pick up a 4 guage scoche kit. it will work fine to get the power back to the amps and saves you some money. As for the speaker wire is won't matter if you use 12 gauge or 20 gauge; there is no audible difference at all. I know that doesn't sound logical and I as an installer didn't believe it until i ready the science behind it (which is far to lengthy to repost right now) but it's true. I would say get some simple 16 gauge wire from radio shack (the same size that is already in the car) and save some more money right there. as for the RCA's this is one area you will want to drop some extra cash on. I am biased towards stinger, as they have served me well in many setups. you ought to also look at Monster, Tsunami, streetwires, or Phoenix Gold. you'll probably want to get a fused distribution block that takes one 4 guage intput and has atleast two 4 gauge outputs. Check www.sounddomain.com they have some good deals on fuse blocks and RCA's right now.

As for wiring the car run your remote wire (assuming you tap it behind the radio) down the same side as the power wire and run your speaker wire and rca's down the other. this obviously puts the most distance between them and can possibly help limit problems.

If you have any other questions i'd be glad to answer them.

Rusky

thanks scott! great info. If only there were a walmart nearby.. Yes, they have not infilrated intown Atlanta yet ;>)

I'm going to take your advice on the speaker wire!

I looked for your other post, couldn't find it. I'll keep looking. I did find Southbound's post about speaker cable resitor and capacitor and think I'm going to try that. When I'm finished, this will be the best stereo I've ever owed!

woo hooo

ou sig

Hey Scott - and whoever else,

Take a look at my system, what do you think?

I am kinda confused about your speaker wire theory. I do agree that there isnt much difference in short runs and minimal power, but when you have 100 watts to your mains, and 600+ to your subs, I am hesitant to run it with 20 guage wire... Im sure that I am running overkill with 12 guage, but it only cost like 20 or so more bucks for all my speaker wire vs. 16 guage, so it wasnt much of a question for me.

Personally I think that Xtant is quite overpriced - if anything go with JL Audio throughout. I do agree that Xtant amps look cool though. I belive that Kicker and there are other brands that make some very good mid to upper range amps, especially for car systems.

What I mean is you can run into $50000/pair speakers in your home....yes I have actually listened to a pair!!!! Wilson Audio if anyone cares. But, when you have that much invested in speakers, that drives a market to make $20000 amps. Im saying, with the types of speakers we are using in our cars...Polk, JL Audio, Infinity....you know, you wouldnt see someone using them in their house with a really expensive amp. You just need some good reliable power. None of the real cheep crap that claims 1000 watts for 200 bucks...no way. But a reputable brand and power than matches your needs. Just remember, always shoot for a little bit more power than you think you need.

Under powering is the worst:enforcer:

Good luck though, and keep us informed.

Rusky

I'd like to keep the discussion on topic but you've peeked my curiosity. I got the 4004 xtant for a steal. It was clearanced at SoundDomain for $230. When it arrived, I was astounded. The quality of craftmanship is apparent without even plugging it in! Every detail looks as if it was carefully engineered and precision tooled for function. The pics online made me expect plain-jane car amp. This thing is like a Bentley. Most amps remind me of Ford making Jaguars, you can smell the cheese from a block away! No matter how much you chrome up a Tarus, it is still a Taurus. On the other hand, I haven't driven the new Jag's. Maybe they are nice! But if I could get a Bentley on clearance for the price of a Ford Taurus, I'd be driving a Bentley. I agree that paying the high price of retail for an XTant anp is for the rich and careless but I am a bit of a deal whore and there it was. I was almost fooled by the Phoenix Gold Octane amps! Fortunately, people on this forum helped me differenciate between the good PG's and the crappy ones. The fact that they produce low-quality amps made me not want a PG at all.

I just wish I'd ordered two XTants and used one to power my subs.

I think, after consistent recommendations abroad, I'm going with JL subs. Not sure which or how many yet. I just want accurate, deep, hair shivering bass. I don't care if the next car can hear it. I will make sure the amp I choose is powerful enough but I doubt i can afford the JL amps.

ou sig

Wow that is a price....I would have got it also. The JL's are great subs. There are some that can handle more power and have more excursion, but I think JL's have the best of all worlds in one. They have more excursion than most, handle plenty of power and can pound with the best of them. Get them in a ported box, and get out of the way...they HIT!!!

Rusky

p.s. OU, nice set-up! I heard/read great things about Focals. I plan to add a capacitor after the subs. Where did you place your tweets? (front and back)

Scott P

OU and Rusky here is the short and narrow basically if by using the stock wires (if memory serves me right they are 18, but they could be 20 gauge) instead of upgrading to to say 12 guage there is a power loss of approximately .1db, which is essentially inaudible to the human ear. now when it comes to subs, especially subs running high currents, i would definately beef up those wires, in fact even though i am only putting 200 watts to my fiance's sub in her car, it is still running on 10gauge wires. which is probably overkill but i had it laying around.

as for the interior speakers, even though you are running 100w RMS it just isn't worth the effort to re wire the doors.

ou sig

Ya possibly, but I just wanted to get all nice looking wire. My tweets are in that little plastic triangle in the front, and in the back they are mounted in the same speaker area as the mid. We just made a new hole. I kinda wanted to put them up in the doors, but 1) I didnt want to risk messing up the door and 2) I didnt want the rear soundstage to be too high, as to take away from the fronts.

My next plan is to upgrade my alternator...I think stock is like 105 Amps...not near enough. My system can drain nearly 100 on its own, if it were available. I can get the stock alternator bumped up to 165 or so for about $250. That should help out even more than the capacitor.

Rusky

Regarding Interconnects, are http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/ROCCPST56

Rockford Fosgate good?

They have the 6-channel, twisted pair, as a bundle

alternatively, they have StreetWires zero noise. These cost about $16 more and are a few feet shorter (though I think they are long enough)...

Scott P

you only need about 16 feet (depending of where you mount your amps). I used all RF in my legend when I had it, and i pretty much always had a little whine when above 3000rpm. That was a few years ago though so i don't know if they are any better now. it seems like a good deal though for 6ch RCA's

ou sig

I have zero noise from my wires. this is my first car stereo like that, Im glad I spent some extra money. You dont want to look for the cheepest wires - they make a big difference! Also, the capacitor gets rid of any ground wines - so I am told.

shawhite

spend the extra money and get the zero noise.. ... oh and scott is still dont agree with using the stock wiring.. you are restricting current flow by using that wire.. and starving your speakers of the power they need... but if it works for you then so be it.. but my car is all done in 16ga twisted pairs... and sub is 10ga twisted pair... and OU sig can you explain the theory how a cap is going to get rid of the ground wines.... i just thought they were to regulate the voltage to your amp...

Rusky

I found zero noise on Buy.com (and a few no name sites) zn250 (5 meter) for < $9. My total order for 3 sets was $26.34. Free shipping!

I had a bad experience with overstock.com in the past and I think they are the same company. However, I did not find the product on that site. I expect it to be new in the package. We'll see. What a great price!

ou sig

Ya I know that is its main purpose, but I have also read that it helps in eliminating the ground wines, especially if you have multiple amps. Just something I have read in multiple places. All I know is I have very clear sound so Im happy!

Scott P

I'm not saying that it doesn't restrict power from the amp to the speaker, but the result of the power lost (it is actually a minimal amount of power) equal's about .1dB in signal lost. that amount is nearly inaudible to the human ear so it becomes a matter if one would want to pay the money and take the time to go about running all that new speaker wire. To me, in my opinion, it seems like a huge waste to go through all that for a gain of .1 of a dB.