amp question..
A) Power as in give you a remote turn-on option?
I'm curious as well.
Or B) Power as in 12V Mains power? Not a good idea - you'd fry the Navi unit if you attempted to feed juice to an amp via non-primary source (battery or fuse block.)
Also, RCA's are traditionally used for signal path, and Molex type connectors used for voltage.
Lastly, there are no dumb questions, only dumb people in suburbans talking on cell phones while sipping latte's
amp - clarify
Tennozan - I noticed I used the wrong wording. I should not have used power. What I am looking for is the audio signal. Like a pre-amp output to send to an additional amp to drive only a new sub. looking to add an additional amp and subwoofer. Power would be a new run from baterry with fuse etc..
I guess I could "splice" into the signal coming out of the head unit (2.4V pre amp signal??)
I guess I could "splice" into the signal coming out of the head unit (2.4V pre amp signal??)
You'll need a LOC (line output converter) that you splice into the rear speaker wires (before a factory amp if you have one). This will give you a set of RCA outputs that you can plug a set of RCA's into that will provide signal for your sub amp.
For the TSX, I would recommend getting the signal from the rear door speakers and not the 6x9's. There's some kind of low-pass filter and bass boost circuit in the amp before the channels that drive the 6x9's. It's better to get a full range signal and use only the crossover and controls in your amp for the bass.
Before you purchase a LOC, make sure your amp doesn't already have a high-level input...
Before you purchase a LOC, make sure your amp doesn't already have a high-level input...
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even if your amp does have a high-level input, past experience tells me you should still opt to use the LOC... i personally just think that the signal coming in is better which will give you a better sound output...
thanks for the info guys.. does anyone know of a place taht one might be able to get connectors to match the OEM stuff in the back of the amp or head unit? I have seen some of these for other cars but no luck with a TSX so far.. (maybe I need to look more).. prefer to make a short "splitter" harness rather than cut the wires.. usually they leave them so short it makes for a crappy wiring connections.
you will also need to hook up a remote wire to the aftermarket amp so it knows when to turn on. The Second Accessory power wire I used on my 04 TL is a white wire with red stripe under the steering column. I also recommend using the line output converter and tapping into the rear sub wires, this way you can also control the sub level from the stock head unit.
How do you do this? anyone know?
go buy a line output converter (LOC) and cut the wires, then splice in some wires to run into the LOC. make sure the wires you cut still have a complete circuit (re-attach where you cut the wires) and you'll have RCA signal outs to plug into for a separate amp... that's it
go buy a line output converter (LOC) and cut the wires, then splice in some wires to run into the LOC. make sure the wires you cut still have a complete circuit (re-attach where you cut the wires) and you'll have RCA signal outs to plug into for a separate amp... that's it
^you wouldn't have to take the headunit out, you splice into any speaker wires for the LOC, easiest is to splice it into the wires for the rear speakers on the deck behind the seats. as your amp will probably go somewhere around there anyways, and you have to run RCA's from the LOC to your aftermarket amp.
Mitch is right... and theoretically, for the best sound, you'll want to find the stock amp and splice the LOC in before the stock amp. this way, you'll be getting pure signal from the H/U, rather than amplified/equalized signal coming out of your amp...
you can just splice the LOC in right before your rear speakers, if you want, but the signal will not be as "pure" as that coming straight from your H/U...
you can just splice the LOC in right before your rear speakers, if you want, but the signal will not be as "pure" as that coming straight from your H/U...
^you wouldn't have to take the headunit out, you splice into any speaker wires for the LOC, easiest is to splice it into the wires for the rear speakers on the deck behind the seats. as your amp will probably go somewhere around there anyways, and you have to run RCA's from the LOC to your aftermarket amp.
Thanks, i see your from Canada, do you anyplace that sells LOC's, i live in vancouver, Futureshop/bestbuy dont sell them, nor does source. Some of the smaller car audio shops might, but i havent gotten around to calling, theyre all closed now
^^kingjatt, did you just look on their websites or call them? cuz i tried looking at the websites and it doesn't have anything, but i'm sure they must have some. Try calling them(bestbuy&futureshop), make sure the store has an install bay. and route or ask the call to be routed to the car audio/car audio install area. Then simply ask them if they have any line output converters.(you can also say "something that will convert my speaker wires into RCA's so i can run an aftermarket amp") or something like that. If they don't have anything a local audio shop should, as it's a key piece in installing amp&subs into a factory audio system. goodluck
Use a LOC tapping the front speaker wires AFTER it leaves the amp. The fronts have the most linear signal. If you have NAVI just tap the rear DVD wire to get the 12v signal.
The stock head unit has balanced outputs. If you try to use a LOC to get the signal before the stock amp it will sound like ass.
The stock head unit has balanced outputs. If you try to use a LOC to get the signal before the stock amp it will sound like ass.
www.navonengineering.com to get a good LOC
Use a LOC tapping the front speaker wires AFTER it leaves the amp. The fronts have the most linear signal. If you have NAVI just tap the rear DVD wire to get the 12v signal.
The stock head unit has balanced outputs. If you try to use a LOC to get the signal before the stock amp it will sound like ass.
The stock head unit has balanced outputs. If you try to use a LOC to get the signal before the stock amp it will sound like ass.
^^kingjatt, did you just look on their websites or call them? cuz i tried looking at the websites and it doesn't have anything, but i'm sure they must have some. Try calling them(bestbuy&futureshop), make sure the store has an install bay. and route or ask the call to be routed to the car audio/car audio install area. Then simply ask them if they have any line output converters.(you can also say "something that will convert my speaker wires into RCA's so i can run an aftermarket amp") or something like that. If they don't have anything a local audio shop should, as it's a key piece in installing amp&subs into a factory audio system. goodluck
thanks i got one, system runs good now
Is tapping one front speaker (The passenger door) wire after the stock amp sufficient to get the signal to the LOC?
I need to get the signal to a 4 channel amp.
Also - Could someone tell me if i need a capacitor to run a Profile AP1040 amp with specs of:
* 80 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
* 125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
* 225 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms
I need to get the signal to a 4 channel amp.
Also - Could someone tell me if i need a capacitor to run a Profile AP1040 amp with specs of:
* 80 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
* 125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
* 225 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms
1. You should under no circumstances need a cap for that amp.
2. I would never add a cap to my car, you need better wiring, front battery, alternator, etc. before a cap is added...
3. I would buy a better amp. While better costs more money, they also put out more power. You'd be lucky to get rated power out of that amp. I would suggest this one: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_675FRP4...owAll=Y&tp=115 if you're on a budget. While it is rated at only 50 watts rms, it probably does closer to 90. I have an Rockford 450.4 rated at 60w rms and according to the birthsheet, it puts out 98w... I know Mitch will agree with the Rockford suggestion, since his amp also does much better than the rated power.
and to answer your original question, yes, the front speaker should provide enough signal for the LOC.
2. I would never add a cap to my car, you need better wiring, front battery, alternator, etc. before a cap is added...
3. I would buy a better amp. While better costs more money, they also put out more power. You'd be lucky to get rated power out of that amp. I would suggest this one: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_675FRP4...owAll=Y&tp=115 if you're on a budget. While it is rated at only 50 watts rms, it probably does closer to 90. I have an Rockford 450.4 rated at 60w rms and according to the birthsheet, it puts out 98w... I know Mitch will agree with the Rockford suggestion, since his amp also does much better than the rated power.
and to answer your original question, yes, the front speaker should provide enough signal for the LOC.
^i agree with matt, you should probably consider getting a different amp, if your wanting to get better sound out of your system. And if your putting this in an 08 tsx i suggest a better amp or stick to stock, don't wanna put something cheap in a nice car like that. i really like rockford, my amp is rated for 50W RMS at 4 ohms per channel, but actually does 112W RMS at 4 ohms per channel according to the birth sheet. Or for a smaller price range for you i'd consider getting this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...dio+A4300.html it's probably underrated aswell and should last a long time.
capacitor verus battery setup discussions are endless and i'm not really looking into getting into that with matt or anyone else. But as for when an extra electrical storage device is needed is for short bursts where a lot of power is required for the amp from your car's electrical source. The only time you will get those burts is when running a high powered amp with subs as most of the times they will not be pumping all out but may hit a couple deep notes really loud once in a while which the amp will require a lot of power for. Whereas a 4 channel amp that powers speakers won't see those kind of short bursts, as the speakers more or less run at the same power all the time. hope this helps and you can ask us if you have any other questions or need clarification of stuff i said
capacitor verus battery setup discussions are endless and i'm not really looking into getting into that with matt or anyone else. But as for when an extra electrical storage device is needed is for short bursts where a lot of power is required for the amp from your car's electrical source. The only time you will get those burts is when running a high powered amp with subs as most of the times they will not be pumping all out but may hit a couple deep notes really loud once in a while which the amp will require a lot of power for. Whereas a 4 channel amp that powers speakers won't see those kind of short bursts, as the speakers more or less run at the same power all the time. hope this helps and you can ask us if you have any other questions or need clarification of stuff i said
Last edited by mitch14; Jan 22, 2009 at 11:06 PM.
Alright, so you both persuaded me to get the Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-4 amp. Do you see anything bad about getting the factory referbished amp to same some $?
Also, do you have any budget minded wiring kit recommendations?
Thanks for all your help its greatly appreciated.
Also, do you have any budget minded wiring kit recommendations?
Thanks for all your help its greatly appreciated.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5659485
and
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5283595
Jeff
Question for those who are encouraging the purchase of a LOC:
What is the difference between using an external LOC and running RCA cables to the amp compared to using speaker-level inputs if the amp has them?
AFAIK, the LOC is a last resort when the head unit has no line outs and the amp you want to use has no speaker level inputs. Whether you use external LOC's or speaker-level inputs, you can't avoid amplifying the noise that the OEM amp has added to the signal since the preamp stage in addition to the audio signal. How can one option be better than the other?
The best solution is to get the signal before the OEM amp. mercman's harness makes this easy without cutting wires.
First choice is mercman's harness + an amp that has balanced/differential inputs.
Second choice is mercman's harness + a BALUN and an amp that has unbalanced inputs.
What is the difference between using an external LOC and running RCA cables to the amp compared to using speaker-level inputs if the amp has them?
AFAIK, the LOC is a last resort when the head unit has no line outs and the amp you want to use has no speaker level inputs. Whether you use external LOC's or speaker-level inputs, you can't avoid amplifying the noise that the OEM amp has added to the signal since the preamp stage in addition to the audio signal. How can one option be better than the other?
The best solution is to get the signal before the OEM amp. mercman's harness makes this easy without cutting wires.
First choice is mercman's harness + an amp that has balanced/differential inputs.
Second choice is mercman's harness + a BALUN and an amp that has unbalanced inputs.
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