He said the 2000 use a different harness for their radio than the 99 so they cant use the adapter they have for the 99 and below, however, he said if i can find the audio signal wires, and a remote turn on wire and run a power wire, I could use this to get a prefect preamp signal for any aftermarket amp. Check out the link
http://www.linkmeup.com/pd2.htm

The thing costs 90 bucks. I have heard a lot of people sort of talk about the right way to do this, but I am still unsure. Most LOC i have seen say they can only handle 20-30 watts. The subwoofer is getting 100 watts from the stock amp, so that worries me. Not sure if the LOC option is so good. The guy from JustCarAudio said that the bose systems also use a twited pair set up for their pre amp setups, not a ground level, and that because of that, a aftermarket amp wont work... Also the guys at autotoys.com said i should use their PERIPHERAL VENDETTA 2.0R (VENREM) WITH REMOTE OUTPUT VENDETTA
(search for Vendetta on autotoys.com) I am not sure how that works, so I dont know where to put it. I am more confused than ever...

 

huh? you just confused me too.

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2001 Acura 3.2TL w/ Navi Black ext. Ebony int., Sunroof Visor,
35% Smoke Metallic Tint, Burlwood Shiftknob, Alpine CHM-S620 6-disc cd-changer

In da works...
Video in my Navi Kit. & Playstation 2(Almost Done)
New Paint Job(Should be done this weekend)
JL Audio 12w6 Sub. & Audiobahn A1800E Amp.

 

You don't need that thing! I tried one from them and sent it back along with the Bose wiring harness they told me would fit my '99 Acura Bose system. And there is no wiring harness made for the 99-01 TL yet that will allow an aftermarket deck to be plugged in to the existing Bose wiring or add amps to the existing wiring. You have to do it yourself or have it done for you.

BUT....if you want to pull the power and signal wires you only need a 4-channel LOC (around $35, a lot less that that Power Driver) to connect to your speaker leads, and you don't need to mess with the power or turn-on leads for the LOC.

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All Your TL Are Belong To Us!

<A HREF="http://www.acura-tl.com/_borders/TL_in_Pacific_Grove.jpg" TARGET=_blank>1999 ACURA 3.2TL
</A>


Mods & stuff....


<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by TL Daddy on March 29, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

Yeah but i need to pull the power and turn on wires for the amp anyways... So that doesnt matter. I think StreetEffects said that a LOC would burn up on the Subwoofer, that is why i was asking.

A loc goes after the stock amp and reduces the signal for use by the aftermarket amp...

 

Well I removed my stock sub amp so my LOC is installed behind my Bose. I misunderstood.

------------------
All Your TL Are Belong To Us!

<A HREF="http://www.acura-tl.com/_borders/TL_in_Pacific_Grove.jpg" TARGET=_blank>1999 ACURA 3.2TL
</A>


Mods & stuff....

 

Where can I get a LOC

 

Where can I get a LOC

 

A LOC is a line out converter. The voltage levels coming out of most aftermarket Head Units is at a level to high to input into an amp. The LOC steps tha voltage down to a level that the amp can handle... Our bose HU outputs low voltage pre-amp voltage levels, so they dont need to be steped down, there is no reason to hook up a LOC there. A LOC could be hooked up on the 9" Bose subwoofer but the amp powering that is a 100 watt amp, and most LOC are only rated to 30 watts... So a LOC shouldn't be used here, or at least that is what 4 years of electrical engineering and listening to StreetEffectz says...

 

Well, the Bose amp for the sub is rated at 100 watts at 1ohm. Then it should be 25 watts at 4ohm. It should be fine. I am using it and it doesn't even get hot.

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Honda-Acura.net TL Forum Moderator.

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I didn't. The Bose h/u 8 spkr leads are spliced to the input leads of the LOC. Then RCAs from the LOC to my EQ, then RCAs from EQ to amps.

 

I still dont understand why you put a LOC inbetween the EQ and you aftermarket amp. The eq sends out pre-amp voltages that do not need to be reduced.

 

In response to

Well, the Bose amp for the sub is rated at 100 watts at 1ohm. Then it should be 25 watts at 4ohm. It should be fine. I am using it and it doesn't even get hot.

Ok, so if the LOC has to handle a max of 25 watts, it should be ok, which is good. Which LOC are you guys using, or ca you recomend one.

 

You don't really need a great LOC for the TL. Since the output level is lower than most. Audiocontrol is always a good option. I do carry these if anyone is interested. Carry several other brands too.

 

Ok, So street, are you saying it is ok to hook the LOC up in paralell with the 9"bose sub? I am glad to hear that, I think it is going to be the easiest way. What LOC do you have, and what do they cost. Thanks for your help.

 

Sniper, if you use the LOC to get signal from the subwoofer, just remember that your only getting low freq. This is ok for running an amp for subwoofers only. This will make it very difficult for you to run multi-channel amps in the future if your planning on mids and highs.

I'm tapped into the rear speaker with my LOC which then runs to my lanzar preamp. The preamp increases the rear speaker's signal, which gives my aftermarket amp a strong enough signal to push my woofers. In addition, I also have the options to run extra RCA from my preamp for future multi-channel amps. The preamp is a good why to solve the low signal problem. TL daddy uses an EQ, which also increase the signal's voltage, very similar.

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99' Taffeta White TL

Fosgate Power 800a2
Two 10" Hx2
E750s Lanzar Preamp
Titanium Tint

 

Ok, I understand what you are saying about only being able to get the low frequencies if i tap into the signal right at the 9 inch Bose woofer and that doing that will prevent me from being able to add another amp that will output more than the low frequencies. I never thought about adding anything else to the car, but now that i am, let me throw my idea out to you, and also ask a few questions... First of all, if you are not getting the signal from the subwoofer, then where are you getting it from? Also are you tapping in right at a speaker and using an LOC to reduce that signal? If you are not getting it right off a speaker, then you have to be getting it before the amp wich would mean the signal strength is really low anyways, so why would you put an LOC there to make it even smaller? I didnt think that the speakers in the doors had full range sound either? So the only thing I can think of is that you ran wires that you spiced in all the way at the HU and ran that signal all the way back. If that is what you did, I know i dont want to do that. I want to be able to add a sub right now. But one thing i was thinking of, I know you have seen a CL, and they have those nice speakers in the rear deck. I think they would fit in our rear deck as well. If i could get full range to them, I bet that it would be pretty sweet to install a set of those in addition to the subwoofer. What do you think?

If you dont like the idea about the CL speakers in the TL, then whatever, just a thought, but do you think I will be straight if all I want to do is add a sub, and just use a LOC to get that sub signal?

Thanks man
Mike

 

If all you want is to add a subwoofer, then just tap the wires that goes into the factory sub and hook up the LOC to it. The only full range signal is to the rear speakers. You can tap the wires either behind the deck or where the wires go into the rear doors.

Just my opinion, I do not think putting additional speakers to the rear deck will be a good idea. You don't need more full range sound in the TL, you need more bass.

 

My remote power is hooked into my ignition. But I believe you can hook it up to the HU.

Mmmmkkay, then why did I buy one from ya?

I had been running my aftermarket sub and the rear factory sub together. Yesterday I took out the stock sub and I think it sounds a bit cleaner. Only listened to it for a few minutes, we'll see what I think after a week or so.

 

The blue wire that goes into the factory sub amp behind the backseat, you can use that as the turn on wire. It only provides a very small current, so depending on your amplifier, you might need to hook up a relay. For me, it works fine without a relay.

 

Ok, so what about the remote power on, where do you get that from? There's no retractable antenna.....

 

I couldn't even get a strong enough current from the HU"s power supply to use for my amp's remote. So I wired my remote directly to my battery (with a fuse of course) and used an On/Off switch to control the remote. So now I have the option of turning off my amp when I'm not in the mood to BASS.

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99' Taffeta White TL

Fosgate Power 800a2
Two 10" Hx2
E750s Lanzar Preamp
Titanium Tint

 

Try this: I used this instead because the blue wire from the amp wasn't enough power to act as the remote power. This is a much better way anyhow (below link).
http://www.acura-tl.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/000458.html

 

Just my opinion, I do not think putting additional speakers to the rear deck will be a good idea. You don't need more full range sound in the TL, you need more bass. [/B][/QUOTE]

I feel that more high is needed because the bose doesn't give any. The mids is awesome, but I can't even hear any kind of tweets comming from the bose. The TL's system difinitely need more highs as well as lows.



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99' Taffeta White TL

Fosgate Power 800a2
Two 10" Hx2
E750s Lanzar Preamp
Titanium Tint