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Hey, I didn’t see anything saying not to make A log in here. But sorry if it’s in the wrong place. I recently purchased A 04 Black 3rd Gen TL that had 79k Miles, and it worked for the most part lol.
After taking it home and giving it A real inspection, I noticed that all the Right Side Speakers and tweeters where either blown or not working properly. I changed out the Front Dash tweeter and it worked so that gives me hope that it isn’t A bad Wiring issue.
Im not some rich guy, so I’ll be changing all audio equipment at A slow pace. Basically it’ll happen when I can afford to buy stuff every other week.. I do have A couple different things from when I was into the “Making Cans Float” scene years ago lol.
Real Info Below ¥
-Gonna be Doing Big 3 and Changing out all factory speakers to aftermarket.
-Change out Stock Amp to New JBL 4Channel (Optional Old RF Punch 4Chan as well)
-(?) Can’t decide on changing out Factory HU w/ Nww Alpine screen before or after I switch out the amps. Heard it’s A bitch and ah half to do, and I work everyday for now so I don’t know if I actually have the time to do this one myself.
-Build Box For New Sundown 8” Sub.(Have Junk Small Ported Box from long time ago)
^Regarding the Sub, I either wanted two 12” RE SXs or 15” XXX if A box could possibly fit in the trunk. I just really loved the set ups I had in my old 97 2DR Tahoe awhile back! The lows it could hit made me fall in love.
-Single Channel Amp is still A mystery since I don’t know what the final Subwoofer that’s making that trunk home is going to be yet. I do have an old RF Punch 600 to use in the mean time.
So so I know I could gladly use some help/advice, but I also am open to any suggestions anyone has as well. Right now I’m just having trouble with Passenger door because I guess the previous owner stripped the big screw holding the door panel, so I haven’t even changed out both front door speakers yet.
I read a few threads about using the wiring from the stock amp set up, which I’m possibly gonna do because idk when I’ll be switching the Stock HU out.
You guys think I should attach the wires and driver to the stock oem wires for now? Since I’m most likely gonna be replacing the 4 channel amp first before my HU and Sub&Amp. This sucks, I was taking so much care to not break this piece! Now the driver door won’t open from the inside, and my rear passenger door still doesn’t open even after replacing this same cord with A BNIP OEM one.
Right side of the Center Console being taken Apart, Plus Glove box, and right side trim. All in order to get to the Factory OEM Amp and Wiring. Almost there, I took the top part of the center off already. So I still need to attach the Kit to hold the dash, do the wiring, and run the wires to the back!
If I’m not mistaken, I’ll need to look for the orange wire and splice into it for the Bluetooth that’s near the dome lights above near the Mirror. Because without doing that the call and back buttons on the steering wheel will not work?
Yes I know the wiring looks ridiculous, luckily I got some help troubleshooting the hamajang wiring left from the previous owner(s) from Max who owns A TL OEM Audio Replacement website.. He makes custom wiring kits that are plug and play kits for different models. So this is when I basically got all the underneath panels off and out of the way. I decided that I was going to get everything “Installed” first and make sure everything turns on and works first. Then once I’ve gotten everything and running, only then would I dedicate one maybe one and ah half days to hiding all the wires and fabricating any mounts/brackets that I needed in order for everything to look clean and not interfere with any of the cars functions. Decided to remove the OEM amp which works surprisingly. I might install another aftermarket amp/stealth amp here in order to power the Tweeters and maybe, just maybe A component speaker I’ll put in the center dash spot. That way I’ll be able to dedicate the JL JX 4Channel Amp to the 2 Front door speakers and 2 rear dash components
Oh, so yah I had some trouble last weekend while doing my deliveries lol. Dash lights, well all my lights started dimming and fluctuating like crazy. Plus the dash lights would appear and just like clock work my car would go into that weird safety mode. Where it would rev high and only go 1-3mph max lol.
But this episode seemed like it was way more intense then any other time this has happened. Same lights would come on though, Airbag,VSA,Check Engine,Battery, and I forget what else lol.
Once I would put it into drive even after being jumped by A friend and letting it idle/charge for A few minutes before hand. ALL the lights dimmed so much that they where practically off, this time my gauges even shut off while I was still moving at slug speeds haha.
But then once I’d get close to not being able to go fast enough or any further without sounding like I was going to blow up, since the gauges didn’t even work. The lights would shut off completely and then the engine would shut off.
once I jumped it again and Checked the voltage, I could tell my alternator was downskys!!
Here’s when I was already in the process of putting the new 150amp Alternator in. Here’s my favorite basic Digital Voltage/Charging System meter. It’s simple and helped me make sure it was the alternator that was the root of my car troubles lol.
Anyone know what kinda fluid this is? I was finally able to take the front right passenger door panel off by grinding the stripped screw down. It’s weird that the fluid is only on the plug and nothing else.
[ So I decided to run this for now, I took out the MBQuart 2way crossovers. They did make the music ALOT cleaner sounding, but way to soft/low in volume. I noticed the difference after disconnecting the crossovers. I figure I can use this for now, at least until I save up enough to grab A Audio Control EpicCenter or some other good EQ? Anyone ever try out the NVX EQs? They seem to have some good reviews and are priced really well ! Along the same prices as sound stream and what not.
What assholes, they stuck something inside to pull the lock to unlock it. I really need to get an aftermarket alarm, since the stock one didn’t do shit.. Soes anyone know of any aftermarket Window sensors that is plug and play with the stock TL alarm?
That is shitty. What a violation of privacy and personal property/space.
Sadly, an alarm system these days is just a deferent. It won’t protect or stop thieves from breaking into your car if they see something (anything) of value. It could be a few cents change! The best way to prevent (aside from keeping the car in a garage which I realize is a luxury) is to keep anything of value out of plain sight. A clean interior, tinted windows is my suggestion. Obvi no showing off your wonderful sound system too much near where you live.
If you want a little more protection: I would recommend a camera system that has a parking mode and starts recording when motion is detected, and some kind of paging system (perhaps through the camera itself) that activity has been detected.