usdmJON's 2013 ILX build
05-14-2017, 10:41 PM
#1081
Consider all the risks. You may not care about snow traction if you live in the Sunbelt and drive mostly on dry roads. That's where the wider footprint and stiffer, shorter sidewalls of large plus-size tires perform best. But driving through puddles is more treacherous wherever you live. That's a compelling reason to choose the plus size closest to the original wheel and tire size, which offers the most performance gain with the fewest sacrifices.
Increased risk of damage from potholes and curbs is another consideration. Besides compromising ride, shorter sidewalls provide less cushioning for wheels and tires. Our pothole test bent the plus-two and plus-three wheels on our BMW 5-Series and damaged the wheel and tire on our plus-two-equipped Honda Accord.
Get the right tire size. A car or tire dealer can tell you the proper plus sizes for your car based on its original tire size.
"A rule of thumb: Increase tire width by 10 millimeters and decrease sidewall height by 5 to 10 percent for each 1-inch increase in wheel diameter. And make sure speed and load rating of new tires is at least as high as on the factory originals.
Also check the recommended inflation pressure when switching between a P-metric tire and Euro-metric tire size designation, since doing so may require a pressure change to maintain your tires' load-carrying capacity. Guidelines vary among tire manufacturers, so it’s best to stay with the same size designation if possible. Tire makers' recommended pressures may vary from those auto makers suggest."
Do I Need Plus-Size Tires? - Consumer Reports
So yea.. having had a near blow out already on the freeway, I'm not too interested in risking it by going too big anymore..������ As I've posted on another thread A lot of real race team SI's or even the ILX use 17x9 racing wheel, or 18x9 for more of a streetable type build... so thats where I'm leaning towards.. and pretty much really regretting I didn't get those Works now... I didn't have the cash at that moment, was moving money around my accounts.. was also too busy with school... best deal I've seen so far... i've seen a few other sets of works or 3 piece wheels, but the deal tends to blowup over some form of false advertising... either wheels are NOT looking the same as in the pics, or they really want more money for the wheels.. I'm trying to ball on a budget, and not entirely in a rush... eventually I will need new wheels tho... the chrome is pitting a bit on the stock wheels. Not the faces tho, still really clean. The tire guys said that over time that corrosion would let air slowly leak , especially in cold wet weather, and then Eventually either needs to be cleaned for the moment (did that) or eventually re-chromed, because it won't hold air past a certain point pf corrosion/ pitting, unless constantly airing up...
would rather buy new wheels then re-chrome the stocks, so whenever I get to that point, new wheels it is... if not already purchased by then....
So Jon - did this consumer reports story affect your wheel rebuild size choice at all..?
Increased risk of damage from potholes and curbs is another consideration. Besides compromising ride, shorter sidewalls provide less cushioning for wheels and tires. Our pothole test bent the plus-two and plus-three wheels on our BMW 5-Series and damaged the wheel and tire on our plus-two-equipped Honda Accord.
Get the right tire size. A car or tire dealer can tell you the proper plus sizes for your car based on its original tire size.
"A rule of thumb: Increase tire width by 10 millimeters and decrease sidewall height by 5 to 10 percent for each 1-inch increase in wheel diameter. And make sure speed and load rating of new tires is at least as high as on the factory originals.
Also check the recommended inflation pressure when switching between a P-metric tire and Euro-metric tire size designation, since doing so may require a pressure change to maintain your tires' load-carrying capacity. Guidelines vary among tire manufacturers, so it’s best to stay with the same size designation if possible. Tire makers' recommended pressures may vary from those auto makers suggest."
Do I Need Plus-Size Tires? - Consumer Reports
So yea.. having had a near blow out already on the freeway, I'm not too interested in risking it by going too big anymore..������ As I've posted on another thread A lot of real race team SI's or even the ILX use 17x9 racing wheel, or 18x9 for more of a streetable type build... so thats where I'm leaning towards.. and pretty much really regretting I didn't get those Works now... I didn't have the cash at that moment, was moving money around my accounts.. was also too busy with school... best deal I've seen so far... i've seen a few other sets of works or 3 piece wheels, but the deal tends to blowup over some form of false advertising... either wheels are NOT looking the same as in the pics, or they really want more money for the wheels.. I'm trying to ball on a budget, and not entirely in a rush... eventually I will need new wheels tho... the chrome is pitting a bit on the stock wheels. Not the faces tho, still really clean. The tire guys said that over time that corrosion would let air slowly leak , especially in cold wet weather, and then Eventually either needs to be cleaned for the moment (did that) or eventually re-chromed, because it won't hold air past a certain point pf corrosion/ pitting, unless constantly airing up...
would rather buy new wheels then re-chrome the stocks, so whenever I get to that point, new wheels it is... if not already purchased by then....
So Jon - did this consumer reports story affect your wheel rebuild size choice at all..?
06-07-2017, 07:07 PM
#1082
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Man those new wheels are CLEAN. Like the lugs, one of my favorite colors, details, I always like details. I slept on some 3 piece Works a random craigslister was selling. 18x9 square set, chrome, $1000, perfect condition. With brand new, but shit brand, tires. Lip was only maybe like 1 inch or or probably more like 1.5... didn't look super aggressive, just very clean. The face was really good looking. NO rim rash...
I have been wanting to eventually get 19x9 wheels.. mostly for looks... but i kept reading up on this a lot and I'm actually leaning more towards 18x9 or 19x8.5... most of the "show" car ILX's have used 19x8.5 wheels... 19's are significantly heavier, especially luxury wheels... I eventually want both a sporty and a Lux look... and If Im going to spend the money, I'm going to want a pretty dramatic change from stock... I have to admit that the 18's You have thrown on look great, especially with the right dsize face, drrop and sizing and stuff...
if you want "performance"18x9. If you want pure looks and most likely giving up a little performance on this car, go 9.5.
I have been wanting to eventually get 19x9 wheels.. mostly for looks... but i kept reading up on this a lot and I'm actually leaning more towards 18x9 or 19x8.5... most of the "show" car ILX's have used 19x8.5 wheels... 19's are significantly heavier, especially luxury wheels... I eventually want both a sporty and a Lux look... and If Im going to spend the money, I'm going to want a pretty dramatic change from stock... I have to admit that the 18's You have thrown on look great, especially with the right dsize face, drrop and sizing and stuff...
if you want "performance"18x9. If you want pure looks and most likely giving up a little performance on this car, go 9.5.
Do I Need Plus-Size Tires? - Consumer Reports
"Some plus-size wheels and tires live up to their image. Our tests of plus-one, plus-two, and plus-three wheels with common-model tires show that increasing wheel diameter 1 inch—or one plus size—offers the greatest benefit in overall performance. After that, you're likely to pay for small gains in grip and handling with big losses in ride comfort, hydroplaning resistance, and snow traction."
So... the newer ILX's do come with 18,'s stock, but it's also a pretty thin wheel still...we love in California so snow is notcreally a factor, but do you take trips to Bear Mountain or anything..? Something to keep in mind... and it still rains in California, so hydoplaning can be a real concern... I hit a small but very deep pothole and it made a huge bubble in my tire, kept air tho. i got it replaced... I like making mods that make sense for a daily drover, that leep it low hassle and very safe still, if not in fact, actually safer...
"Some plus-size wheels and tires live up to their image. Our tests of plus-one, plus-two, and plus-three wheels with common-model tires show that increasing wheel diameter 1 inch—or one plus size—offers the greatest benefit in overall performance. After that, you're likely to pay for small gains in grip and handling with big losses in ride comfort, hydroplaning resistance, and snow traction."
So... the newer ILX's do come with 18,'s stock, but it's also a pretty thin wheel still...we love in California so snow is notcreally a factor, but do you take trips to Bear Mountain or anything..? Something to keep in mind... and it still rains in California, so hydoplaning can be a real concern... I hit a small but very deep pothole and it made a huge bubble in my tire, kept air tho. i got it replaced... I like making mods that make sense for a daily drover, that leep it low hassle and very safe still, if not in fact, actually safer...
Consider all the risks. You may not care about snow traction if you live in the Sunbelt and drive mostly on dry roads. That's where the wider footprint and stiffer, shorter sidewalls of large plus-size tires perform best. But driving through puddles is more treacherous wherever you live. That's a compelling reason to choose the plus size closest to the original wheel and tire size, which offers the most performance gain with the fewest sacrifices.
Increased risk of damage from potholes and curbs is another consideration. Besides compromising ride, shorter sidewalls provide less cushioning for wheels and tires. Our pothole test bent the plus-two and plus-three wheels on our BMW 5-Series and damaged the wheel and tire on our plus-two-equipped Honda Accord.
Get the right tire size. A car or tire dealer can tell you the proper plus sizes for your car based on its original tire size.
"A rule of thumb: Increase tire width by 10 millimeters and decrease sidewall height by 5 to 10 percent for each 1-inch increase in wheel diameter. And make sure speed and load rating of new tires is at least as high as on the factory originals.
Also check the recommended inflation pressure when switching between a P-metric tire and Euro-metric tire size designation, since doing so may require a pressure change to maintain your tires' load-carrying capacity. Guidelines vary among tire manufacturers, so it’s best to stay with the same size designation if possible. Tire makers' recommended pressures may vary from those auto makers suggest."
Do I Need Plus-Size Tires? - Consumer Reports
So yea.. having had a near blow out already on the freeway, I'm not too interested in risking it by going too big anymore..������ As I've posted on another thread A lot of real race team SI's or even the ILX use 17x9 racing wheel, or 18x9 for more of a streetable type build... so thats where I'm leaning towards.. and pretty much really regretting I didn't get those Works now... I didn't have the cash at that moment, was moving money around my accounts.. was also too busy with school... best deal I've seen so far... i've seen a few other sets of works or 3 piece wheels, but the deal tends to blowup over some form of false advertising... either wheels are NOT looking the same as in the pics, or they really want more money for the wheels.. I'm trying to ball on a budget, and not entirely in a rush... eventually I will need new wheels tho... the chrome is pitting a bit on the stock wheels. Not the faces tho, still really clean. The tire guys said that over time that corrosion would let air slowly leak , especially in cold wet weather, and then Eventually either needs to be cleaned for the moment (did that) or eventually re-chromed, because it won't hold air past a certain point pf corrosion/ pitting, unless constantly airing up...
would rather buy new wheels then re-chrome the stocks, so whenever I get to that point, new wheels it is... if not already purchased by then....
So Jon - did this consumer reports story affect your wheel rebuild size choice at all..?
Increased risk of damage from potholes and curbs is another consideration. Besides compromising ride, shorter sidewalls provide less cushioning for wheels and tires. Our pothole test bent the plus-two and plus-three wheels on our BMW 5-Series and damaged the wheel and tire on our plus-two-equipped Honda Accord.
Get the right tire size. A car or tire dealer can tell you the proper plus sizes for your car based on its original tire size.
"A rule of thumb: Increase tire width by 10 millimeters and decrease sidewall height by 5 to 10 percent for each 1-inch increase in wheel diameter. And make sure speed and load rating of new tires is at least as high as on the factory originals.
Also check the recommended inflation pressure when switching between a P-metric tire and Euro-metric tire size designation, since doing so may require a pressure change to maintain your tires' load-carrying capacity. Guidelines vary among tire manufacturers, so it’s best to stay with the same size designation if possible. Tire makers' recommended pressures may vary from those auto makers suggest."
Do I Need Plus-Size Tires? - Consumer Reports
So yea.. having had a near blow out already on the freeway, I'm not too interested in risking it by going too big anymore..������ As I've posted on another thread A lot of real race team SI's or even the ILX use 17x9 racing wheel, or 18x9 for more of a streetable type build... so thats where I'm leaning towards.. and pretty much really regretting I didn't get those Works now... I didn't have the cash at that moment, was moving money around my accounts.. was also too busy with school... best deal I've seen so far... i've seen a few other sets of works or 3 piece wheels, but the deal tends to blowup over some form of false advertising... either wheels are NOT looking the same as in the pics, or they really want more money for the wheels.. I'm trying to ball on a budget, and not entirely in a rush... eventually I will need new wheels tho... the chrome is pitting a bit on the stock wheels. Not the faces tho, still really clean. The tire guys said that over time that corrosion would let air slowly leak , especially in cold wet weather, and then Eventually either needs to be cleaned for the moment (did that) or eventually re-chromed, because it won't hold air past a certain point pf corrosion/ pitting, unless constantly airing up...
would rather buy new wheels then re-chrome the stocks, so whenever I get to that point, new wheels it is... if not already purchased by then....
So Jon - did this consumer reports story affect your wheel rebuild size choice at all..?
06-08-2017, 12:28 AM
#1083
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Thank you. These lug nuts are Project Mu and something I wanted on my integra back in the day. I never got them before as I didnt car for "quality" parts then I just bought 40 dollar lug nuts off amazon instead. These are two piece forged steel. The teal caps are the second piece and made of anodized aluminum. The body of the lug itself is forged steel so it shouldnt strip like I hav seen from the aluminum ones.
As for wheel size I dont see the need for a full 9.5 or even 10 but thinking of the wheel itself, like if I ever wanted to resell, 9.5 and 10 will sell a lot easier. 9.5 is considered "full size" in the stance/VIP scene. Anything less is something most would have to rebuild. I am in no way looking at an ILX as a performance oriented platform. Even the 2.4 IMO. With that said this car is about getting me from point A to B in style without breaking the bank. So I'll probably rebuild to 18x9.5 to begin with for my daily set up and 19s for my show wheels. Probably 19x9.5/10 and run camber since they wouldnt be a daily set.
If I ever go wide body or flares Id go even wider to fill the space. With the power I am making I wont mind the slight performance cut due to the heavier wheels. So Id probably just go however wide I need to fill however wide the body goes but still run 18s for a daily set and 19s for show. Daily will probably always be a little more narrow simply because wider tires cost more.
As for damaging the tire/wheel I drive pretty slow... car is pretty slow. So Im not too worried. I live in a nicer part of the LA area where roads are maintained and it is still relatively new. I dont trip to bear mountain anymore ever but if I did it would typically be the my buddy who bought a Subaru legacy with trips to bear in mind.
Only real commuting I do is through LA and like I said its mostly through areas I dont have to worry about road damage. Driveways are my only worry. Once I finally go bags Ill take the hit to my "street rep" for a more mature and safe way to get around while being able to cruise low and park slammed.
I have a few goodies in store I spent more than Id like to on so Im going to take a small break before more money goes to the ILX. Waiting on a $300 custom dash mat to match my interior goodies, an air horn system to replace to pussy honda horns we got ran me $450, as well finally going to pay the $500 for my insurance deductible to get the scuff/headlight damage from the hit and run.
So at $1250 spent relatively on a whim my bank account could use some more padding.
As for wheel size I dont see the need for a full 9.5 or even 10 but thinking of the wheel itself, like if I ever wanted to resell, 9.5 and 10 will sell a lot easier. 9.5 is considered "full size" in the stance/VIP scene. Anything less is something most would have to rebuild. I am in no way looking at an ILX as a performance oriented platform. Even the 2.4 IMO. With that said this car is about getting me from point A to B in style without breaking the bank. So I'll probably rebuild to 18x9.5 to begin with for my daily set up and 19s for my show wheels. Probably 19x9.5/10 and run camber since they wouldnt be a daily set.
If I ever go wide body or flares Id go even wider to fill the space. With the power I am making I wont mind the slight performance cut due to the heavier wheels. So Id probably just go however wide I need to fill however wide the body goes but still run 18s for a daily set and 19s for show. Daily will probably always be a little more narrow simply because wider tires cost more.
As for damaging the tire/wheel I drive pretty slow... car is pretty slow. So Im not too worried. I live in a nicer part of the LA area where roads are maintained and it is still relatively new. I dont trip to bear mountain anymore ever but if I did it would typically be the my buddy who bought a Subaru legacy with trips to bear in mind.
Only real commuting I do is through LA and like I said its mostly through areas I dont have to worry about road damage. Driveways are my only worry. Once I finally go bags Ill take the hit to my "street rep" for a more mature and safe way to get around while being able to cruise low and park slammed.
I have a few goodies in store I spent more than Id like to on so Im going to take a small break before more money goes to the ILX. Waiting on a $300 custom dash mat to match my interior goodies, an air horn system to replace to pussy honda horns we got ran me $450, as well finally going to pay the $500 for my insurance deductible to get the scuff/headlight damage from the hit and run.
So at $1250 spent relatively on a whim my bank account could use some more padding.
06-21-2017, 11:40 PM
#1084
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
06-25-2017, 01:33 AM
#1085
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Shitty pics but new custom dash mat to help protect the dash.
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