So lets see what everyone has to say about this. I’m debating to get a new TLX 2.0 or wait for the 3.0. Now a 2.0 Ktuned with a flex fuel convert and E85 mixed with 93 should give us significant amount of power over stock, you can do your down pipe and FMIC to get some more power as well. I know the Turbo V6 is going to be nice as well with those same mods if it’s tuned within the first 2 years but consider the weight factor, big wheels and brakes. The Type S maybe be 500-700 lbs more than the smaller boosted 2.0. The V6 will definitely be smoother but it looks like the 2.0 will have an advanced model to get all of the HUD and the other goodies like the RDX has. On my RDX it drives well, when I get on it, it moves with a handful of torque and this jeep is heavy with AWD. My lease is up in September so this is my debate………or get an M240 😊

 

How do you reckon the Type S will be “500-700 lbs” heavier than the non-Type S?

 

If I am to drop back down to a sedan after having the 2014 MDX and 2019 RDX, it would have to be for the Type-S

 

I wouldn't expect anything close to 500-700 lbs heavier....Thats like the weight difference between a TLX, and an MDX.

I'm waiting to see what the 3.0 brings. Provided I feel spoiled, and want even more getup and go than the current V6, I am seeing a V6 with forced induction, and AWD in my future.

 

Yup I probably estimated to much lets say around 300-400lbs more that is the difference between the fwd to the AWD

 

Unless there's some serious drivability annoyances with the Type-S (think ZF9-type issues for the 1G), I would get the more powerful version if I were to get this car. If it's outrageously priced, I'd just skip the car altogether. It would gnaw away at me knowing that there was a more powerful version that I decided not to get.

 

The difference between a 2009 R8 with the 4.2L V8 and the 2010 R8 with the 5.2L V10 was about 140 lbs. I would expect the TLX with the 2.0L inline 4 to be about a similar weight difference to the 3.0L V6, provided both have SH-AWD.

 

The packages are going to be everything here. Not many people need to be able to go from red light to red light/stop sign to stop sign the quickest but do want some of the creature comforts.

 

How do you mix E85 and 93 that's convenient to want a tune like that?

 

You have to install the PRL E85 ethanol kit with the Ktuner add on for the ECU. Once this is done you can enable this option in the Ktuner for Ethanol mix content, the tune has already been modified to include this.

 

I doubt I'll ever want such a large car, but the 2G looks great so I'll check it out. I'd almost certainly go for the 2.0T with AWD, chiefly due to its lower cost and better fuel economy, but also because the more aggressive wheel/tire package on the Type S would probably be a nightmare in Philly. I also prefer lower weight, especially over the front wheels, for better handling.

But if the cost and fuel economy penalties aren't too severe, I'd consider the Type S. BMW gets excellent efficiency from its inline six, so maybe Acura will do something similar with its 3.0T.

 

That’s exactly what I’m thinking, the roads in NYC queens….omg I need 2 alignments a year. The 20’s do look nice but the ride quality will not be the same. Only time will tell once it is released, my problem is my lease is up in Sep and I don’t want to extend so I may settle for a 2.0 ride it out a year then do a buy out and get a Type S. I learned my lesson with first year cars and since the 2.0 has been out it will have less problems come up. My 2015 first year was a nightmare so many trips to the dealer and let’s not forget the greatest tranny of them all the 9 speed…..had to be swapped out. Another reason to get the 2.0 is it will have the advance trim with all the goodies.



A re-flashed Ktuner 2.0 with flex fuel is making a ton of power and torque, roughly almost 400tq and 320hp to the wheels.

 

Thta's a tough question you ask. It's impossible to know the answer without knowing specs for the 3.0T. If you cant wait, the 2.0T should be no slouch. I keep going on about how the Accord guys are modding and tuning. Myself, I'm waiting to know the Tyope S specs before I decide. There is also a non-zero likelihood that I keep my über-rare manual Accord....

 

Can you provide a link to the Accord forum thread where guys are discussing their tuning experiences with the 2.0T?

 

I’m not too sure on Internet forums but the 10th Generation Accords page on FB have some mod/tuning details and experiences.

 

 

Here ya go lots of guys on this forum..
https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/...thread.506874/

 

I also agree with this thinking I would go for the 2.0 with AWD for sure. I have the same question as the OP, is the 2.0 enough power?
I will consider it for the lower cost and I am sick of using premium fuel in my TL type S i have now. I also do not want 20" tires, due to the high costs down the line, and I just don't want such large tires on my vehicle. I also look forward to seeing the weight lbs. difference between the 2.0 liter and 3.0 liter with the bigger wheels....
I also know modifying and tuning the new car voids the warranty immediately.

 

Not necessarily. The dealer has to prove your alteration created a voidable condition.

 

For a Daily Driver, I think the 272hp 2.0T is fine.
If want one of the fastest 2021-TLX (and you have plenty of money) … I think people should wait for the 3.0L Type-S .

I think 272hp is fine because my current sedan is a (low-miles and well maintained) 2004 Honda Accord V6 EX-L . It is plenty fast (it gets to 100mph pretty easy). It likes Michelin MXV4 V-rated tires (if you get my drift). Also because our 2014 Acura MDX only had 290hp V6 (and was never described by any driver as slow).

I also recommend getting at least the Tech-Package (includes 19-inch wheels) and SH-AWD. It should be like the red-one in the official Acura video.

Type-S looks extreme and awesome. As I re-read your post, it sounds like maybe you are the kind of person that should wait and see the 3.0T (and pricing) before making a decision. It’s not exactly a trivial matter. Of course, it will be quicker and in the video it appears to drift better.

Personally, I am not waiting (well, any longer than I have to).

 

We all know that the dealerships have to prove that the modification is what caused the failure but as of lately, dealers aren't going to prove it. They instead just decline the warranty. This is becoming a troubling truth across the board now and more so with BMW. Their scan tools can automatically detect a tune without really looking for it. This will be the new normal as with turbo vehicles can be tuned fairly easily. Reliable and safe is another issue all together. As the saying goes, you gotta pay to play. Risk you take while under warranty.

 

I hate to say this. But my 3G MDX is slow. There was only 1 engine choice when I bought it in 2013. The hybrid trim didn't come out until 3 years after.

290hp for a sedan is adequate. But 290hp and 267ft-lb of torque at a high'ish 4500 rpm for a 4000lbs SUV are simply not good enough.

The heavy curb weight and the lack of low/mid range torque is particularly noticeable during passing on the highways. With the VCM engages at highway speed, I have to wait a second to 2 after stepping hard on the gas, only then the tranny will downshift a gear or 2 in order to get some decent engine power for passing.

After all, the MDX is for my wife driving my kid to school and for grocery shopping. So hp/torque was not high on my priority list. But when I drive the MDX, I wish it could have another 50 hp or more.

When the high torque turbo MDX comes out, it will definitely be the time to trade in my 3G MDX.

 

Is it possible to restore the engine computer back to factory tune, before bringing the vehicle to the dealership ? Then after coming back home, just reprogram the computer to the aftermarket tune.

 

Don't quote me on this, I can only tell you based on BMW, even if you go back to the stock map, it can still be detected. This was copied and pasted from an ASE Master BMW technician from Xbimmers post

BMW TECH: Well considering any tune you should know that YOU are responsible should anything go wrong. You can void your warranty if something happens. And BMW can always tell whether or not you had/have a tune. Even if you flash back to stock and relock the DME.
Gotta pay to play.

Random Member: Oh damn.. cause i believe BM3 told me they can flash it back to stock and reset the flash counter to zero. That's why i was asking, you think even with resetting the flash counter to zero they'll still detect it??

BMW TECH: Again yes of course BMW can still detect it. You can never clear anything back to complete 0. Or delete all data completely from DME. It may erase from the first layer of data however that works. Or first 2 lets say but its still there if BMW wants to dig deeper.
__________________

As of right now, I asked a friend of mine who works for Honda if the new scan tools have the ability to detect tunes, he said not as of yet. I also asked my ex co-worker at Acura if the scan tools can detect tunes, he said it's the same software from when I was working there, so definitely no.

 

There are certain telltale signs. For instance, on some cars the ECU tracks how many times the car has been started, so if you flash back to the original tune you'll have an exceptionally low number of starts. On others, there's a flash counter to see how many times the ECU has been flashed. Long story short, almost all manufacturers are now able to detect these type of things, and unless you have a very very very generous dealer, your VIN will get flagged and future warranty work may be denied. The only way to get around this is to use a piggyback tune, which itself is less than ideal, and even then it's uncertain whether it's truly undetectable or not.

 

How about using another factory computer (not brand new, but has accumulated reasonable amount of mileage) ?

The tracking and monitoring data has to be store on some memory chip(s) or in different location inside the program-map chip, inside the computer, so swapping a clean computer will cover up all traces of tempering even if logged in the swapped out computer.

The only issue is the mileage value. It will not match the actual vehicle mileage.

 

Really? That's scary. But you are still looking at Acuras, so I guess it turned-out OK.

Never had a major transmission problem on any Honda or Acura. IIRC, on our 2014-MDX Tech/SH-AWD ... there was a ServiceBulletin and firmware update for it's tranny. Part of it was to replace fluid early. Seemed to shift better after that. If I still had it, we were going to change fluid again this summer because it looked dirty already.

Basically, keep your firmwares updated and change fluid/filter every 10-15k miles was the answer.

 

I've thought about that as well, but never asked. It would make logical sense if you have a performance tuned ECU that you could swap with a completely stock ECU. I think mileages are still stored in the cluster, not on the actual ECU, unless you mean if the ECU has a mileage stored somewhere. I know Dinan has performance ECU's now. If it does work, this might be a solution for other brands as well. Mercedes had performance ECU's by Renntech. From what I use to read, it was as easy as swapping the ECU before getting warranty work. I no longer know if this is still valid since scan tools programs have gotten advance.

 

most of the times when there is engine work done data is sent over to the automaker HQ and is analysed for certain parameters such as boost pressure @ a certain RPM (BMS style tune for BMW) , Fuel flow/injection, timing advance, etc.

GM's been voiding any vehicle that has been tracked according to the data from ECU on powertrains. Some guy bought a vette though carvana and found out the hard way and returned it.

HDS has the ability to pull boost pressure and other data since the RDX in 2007 that can help them determine if it was tuned.

 

I think this is cat and mouse. If OEM scan tools have gotten advanced to detect swapped ECU, it is just a matter of time before aftermarket tune shops on figuring out what the detection method and implement a way to bypass or fool the OEM scan tools.

 

It would be my preference to have the Type S but, the 2.0T is fast enough to put a smile on my face. My experience. Not a traffic light dragster, but I am a die hard 1/4 mile drag racer but risk adverse to modifying my daily TLX driver. For me I have a 2003 Mustang Cobra supercharged, tuned with all the go fast goodies. Since I purchased the Cobra new, there was no going after warranty work after destruction of IRS axles at that time! To each their own preference. I quickly learned “pay to play”