Hi all,
Are there any instructions on how to deal with the e-brake when replacing the rear rotors? My 2016 TLX Tech 4cyl rotors need to be resurface and new pads soon, so I just want to see if there are any instructions out there. I found 2 videos on youtube, but when come to the ebrake, they weren't clear on it.

 

The videos are misleading. I just did my brakes a few weeks back and ran into the same confusion - including trying to twist the piston back in place, as is typical on most Hondas. But you don't - you just compress it like the fronts once the eBrake is retracted.

1. On the car before you start, release the parking brake if it's on.
2. Remove the eBrake motor from the caliper with the two screws holding it in place - then pull it off. It has a gasket so it's a little hard to pull off, but it will pop off.
3. Using the Torx (T-45 I think; that's well documented), completely release it until it stops turning.
4. Compress the caliper piston like you would the fronts... either a C clamp or using a piston tool.

That's it - I must have spent 40 mins trying to figure out how to twist the caliper back in place. I found an article on German eBrakes used on cars and there was a reference to Honda's implementation and it said to simply compress it - worked like a champ.

 

You can use a scan tool to put the e-brake in service mode - this will retract the mechanism and allows you to replace the pads.

 

Thanks for the inputs. Not sure why both of my front and rear brakes are wearing out the same rate. Is this normal for Acura? I don't remember Toyota or Honda that I have own and worked on are like this.

 

My fronts were a little more worn than the rears, but they were all ready for replacement. But I did a TON of highway miles on my first set... just changed them about 2 months back with just shy of 100K miles on them.

 

sorry to bring back an old post, but since it's related, I figured might as well continue.

Just got an oil change, and the check list showed my front pad in the green and my rear brake pad is in the yellow, of which I do see my pad is wearing thin, much thinner than my front. After a short road trip, when braking at high speed, my front shook pretty strong. My car has ~62k miles on original brake pads. The front pad look pretty thick, almost twice as thick as the rear, such a waste to replace it, but it is shaking way too much when braking.

So my question is when replacing those pads, do I need to resurface the back rotors as well or am I good with just replacing the pad? And for the front, would resurface this time is alright or need a new rotor giving I drive mostly city and it has ~62k miles on it? I don't know if I bring in those rotor to pepboys or O'Reilly, will they measure it first before telling me it is safe to resurface or better off with a new one lol.

 

Yes, they will measure it first and if it can be machined within spec they can definitely resurface it. However, I've been told it's actually more expensive to resurface rotors than to just buy a new one due to labor costs. Who knows, it might be a sales pitch.

 

Every time I've inquired about resurfacing rotors, I'm usually told these days that they make them thinner than they used to and there isn't enough there to resurface. Personally I think that's bunk, but since I do my own brakes I just replace the rotors anyway since it's faster than pulling them and having someone resurface them.

I always replace them with aftermarket because the OEM ones are far too expensive. I don't put anything special on... Usually the better quality Advance Auto ones.

As for the backs, always do pads and rotors at the same time. If you resurface just the rotors and leave the old pads in place, the surfaces won't mate well and you will just toast the rotors prematurely.

Brakes are very easy on these cars... Same as any Honda, except the ebrake part which is detailed above and not hard once you know what to do with it.

 

So, separating the wheat from the chaff here..., yes, resurfacing rotors, or better said, grinding the outer layer of the rotor off, is still less expensive than buying new rotors, but not by much. Given modern rotors are already very near minimums when new, it is not unusual to see a rotor come off a car which A) has never been turned/resurfaced, and B) is already at or near the minimum spec. Given how relatively inexpensive good quality aftermarket rotors are, I cannot see any argument for resurfacing; simply buy new and carry on.

 

Thanks for the info! Yes, it is a hassle to having them rotors off, drive to the shop and have it resurface. I didnt know if it be a waste or not to threw out the rotor lol.
Even if I get the new rotor, doesnt it need to be resurface as well or maybe this applied to back in the days? I remembered my mechanic always resurface when he replaced new rotor for my first car. He said even brand new, it still not perfectly even, so if I just put the new rotor n pad in, it wouldn't be long until it start to warp again.

 

No, new rotors just need to be cleaned to get the rust protectant off the surface; absolutely zero need to resurface a new rotor.

 

thank you all! I will now look into rotors and start buying them and changing them. Hopefully I don't break anything lol. Any recommendation on which brand for rotor other than OEM? I probably will go with OEM pads though.

 

Centric; easily as good as OEM with the added benefit of painted rust-prone surfaces.

 

Definitely don't buy OEM - they are astronomically priced and there's good alternatives. Like Horseshoez said, Centric, or even the Car Quest (Advance Auto house brand) Platinum-level rotors are painted and good quality. You shouldn't be paying more than about $50-$60 per rotor.

 

Thanks all! I'll look into those.

 

As I am getting ready to order parts, so I was curious and asked my service adviser for the price quote on replacing those brakes since I was there for transmission fluid change. He told me the rear brake require to be in service mode before doing it. I asked him if that's only apply for v6 model and he said all models. Is this true? I thought for 4 cyl, I just need to remove the cap, screw the bolt until can't turn no more and then compress the piston likes many has mentioned here, as well as youtube lol.

 

He's referring to the e-brake. Dealers can place it in service mode via the ODB-II connection and their gear. But you can do the same by following the instructions above. All service mode does is unwind the electric e-brake so it can be removed. You can manually do the same. I did mine (V6) this year and it was simple and I had no issues.

 

Thanks datadr. Just want to make sure lol