I'm about to replace the passengers side axle on my 2011 TL SHAWD. I watched a few YouTube videos of similar models and one guy disconnected the upper ball joint as opposed to the lower ball joint along with the bottom shock mount bolt to get enough play in the knuckle to remove the axle. Has anyone done this job that can comment on whether either would work on a 2011 TL? Does the tie rod end not need to be disconnected? I thought for sure it would have to be, but the guy in the video didn't disconnect it and the service manual doesn't say to disconnect it either. Although it does say to disconnect the sway bar link and the video did not do this step either.

Also, the service manual says to remove "exhaust pipe A". Is this absolutely necessary? I'd rather not mess with any exhaust connections if I can help it. I'm hoping I can get a punch up in there enough to tap on the inner joint and force it apart from the intermediate shaft.

 

I would pop the lower ball joint
but make sure you torque it to spec when you're finished!!

Also...you already know what you are potentially up against. As with any project...

Try to blend:
-Minimize struggle
-Minimize taking shit off

Meaning...if taking more shit off is going to massively reduce struggle...then take shit off. Otherwise....leave the shit on.

But never compromise on doing it properly.

 

I'm not worried about getting ball joints off. I was just wondering if it's easier to take off the top as opposed to the bottom. I feel like removing the top would be better because the knuckle would fall out of the way, whereas removing the bottom would cause it to hang in the way.

 

Removing the bottom gives you more room and its easy to swing the knuckle out

Remember, when installing....especially with aftermarket axles, you cannot stretch them out even a LITTLE bit.

From a guy who's done it a million times ...its a much better idea to undo the LOWER joint than the upper.

Again...I'm stressing this for a reason...don't over torque the castle nut when you put it back together. Look up the torque value and follow it closely.

 

Okay. I'll remove the lower one then.

I'll be careful with the new axle. Is there a better way to force the new axle into the intermediate shaft? I've seen people force them in by using the axle like a battering ram, which doesn't seem like a good idea. Will it pop in with steady force or does it require tapping/hammering it in by smacking the outboard end?

Any advice for removing the old one from the intermediate shaft? Can it be done without removing the exhaust pipe?

 

You can do if you use a long, skinny pipe as a "punch".

I used a straight bladed prybar last time (looks like a giant flat head screwdriver).

Smack the other end with a metal hammer.

And the "battering ram" approach is correct.

Its more of a slide hammer approach.

But...use finesse. Not excess force. And don't pull on the axle. Use the small amount of internal space the axle has, in order to get some momentum.

Make 200% sure you have the splines lined up and the axle is partially on the splines​​​​​. You'll feel when its right. It'll go on a tiny bit and lock into the splines (evidenced by turning the axle a little and making sure the splines move too).

Once its for sure lined up and its partially on....make sure the whole axle is straight. Use one hand to support the "cup" of the axle that's going into the intermediate shaft.

Line up your "battering track" so you're hitting straight, if you will.

Then give it one good, sharp shove. It'll make a satisfying POP. And you go on living your life afterwards.

 

Maybe take a photo of the original axle and half shaft joint before separating it.

So you know how what it looks like when fully engaged.

 

Slide hammer is the term I meant to use. Haha.

Thanks for the tips. Glad to know I don't need to mess with the exhaust. Just waiting on my new lift (Quick Jack BL-5000EXT) and I'll get this knocked out.