Blackura...that sucks man!

When its on 3rd do you just wait until it kicks into 4th? or do you use the paddle shift to eventually shift to 4th gear?

 

^ a little bit of both. i either give it more throttle, or force it into 4th gear through the Paddle Shifter

 

edge on acceleration ?? isn't the 4g tl faster??

 

Hi, I just joined and am delighted to have found this site and forum. I have a few questions. I have a brand new SH-AWD TL and am not happy with the auto transmission's behavior. In S mode in 5th gear all stepping on the gas does is the transmission slips to the tune of 500-700 RPM. In D mode stepping on the gas only down shifts 2-3 gears without any change in speed

1. I noticed three parts of the drive train were mentioned; is it being suggested that all three units have to be flushed...or just the transmission?

2. I notice that the capacity of the tranny is 8 quarts. That means going through 24 quarts of fluid! That's going to be pretty expensive isn't it?

I'm going to take the car in next Wednesday and let them know...in a pleasant but firm way that I expect it to be fully resolved. I wish I'd have bought the 6 speed.

Thanks!

 

First off Rich G.. When in S mode it won't downshift for you.. it should stay engaged in the gear you've chosen (unless the 4G changed the programming but I highly doubt it). Second.. the automatic downshift is controlled by several factors including your relative speed and throttle input. Third.. The AT case holds ~8qts but you're only able to drain ~3qts from the TC housing at a time which is the reason you do a 3x3, to cycle in more fresh fluid. So you're not using 24 qts of ATF on a 3x3, you're using between ~12 qts.The more drains & fills you do the more fresh fluid you have cycling but there will always be remnants of the old fluid. Example 1st drain & fill: 63% old fluid still in. 2nd drain & fill: 40% old fluid still in. 3rd drain & fill: 24% old fluid still in. 4th drain & fill: 15% old fluid still in. 5th drain & fill: 10% old fluid still in. 6th drain & fill: 6% old fluid still in. etc..

 

fk.. I guess with the site haywire from dumbass billy's infamy they are taking away all edits & formats..

 

Majofo (sorry but there isn't any quote tab available to me) I either didn't explain it clearly or you've read something into my remark. I know the S doesn't down shift. I never said it should. When I select S and maintain a constant speed in 5th when I step on the gas the rpm jumps 500-700 rpm and the car does not change speed. ergo, there is slippage in the transmission.

I realize the D situation is subjective, but dropping three gears and not accelerating is not my idea of acceptable performance.

Thanks for the explanation about the transmission fluid. I assume three changes is the point of diminishing returns. I really didn't mean to say 'flush' I know better. Unfortunately I can't find the edit tab either.

 

ahh.. I thought you meant you stepped on the accelerator and it bumped up a few hundred rpms without downshifting, my bad. If you feel like there is some slipping occurring it would probably behoove you to change your ATF in hopes of alleviating the issue. There's an interesting thread in the 3G section about racing ATF, it might not be a bad read for you.

 

I am running Amsoil ATF, and like it. A bit firmer shifts when cold, but once warmed up, it's silk. Not many have used RP ATF, so I can't say but what I will say is many have used Amsoil with good results. That is the reason I went with Amsoil because it's proven.

 

That is most likely the torque converter unlocking some and not the trans slipping.

So you are saying that if you give it gas and it down shifts 3 gears it doesnt accelerate?

 

Correct. Of course if I mash the gas further it will take off then. Today I also encountered the jump to 4000 rpm on acceleration without downshifting.

 

i would bring it in and let them run the heatlh check with the milage u have should ot have to do naything with the transmission. Change type of gas. Also i do recall u made some modz on the car that can affect the t-body

 

I'm changing to RP ATF on my '09 SH-AWD...are people still using the MM Sub 6 codes to swap out the gear fluid in the back when on RP...or are you going further on it?

I understand that there is also new transmission fluid (DPSF or something like that)...has anyone heard more about it?

 

it is dz1 i believe is the new transmission fluid and it works on older acuras as well

 

Would the recommended Type-F fluid and pressure switch replacement method work for 4G as it does the 3G?

 

George,
I just changed my rear differential and manual transmission fluid for my 2010 TL 6mt. When I was looking for the drain plugfor the transmission fluid, there are 2 drain plugs. Looking at the car from the front, I unscrewed the one on the right. About a quart or less came out. I then found one on the left and about 3 quarts came out. I filled 3 quarts in the fill hole under the battery.Would you know if the first plug I unscrewed is another type? Is this the front differential transfer case? Do I need to fill this up?

 

The center mass drain & fill plugs are for the transfer case. Usually its a 75/80w-90 or straight 90 gear oil is used of your liking. I use RP or M1 or Redline on the X.. whichever is the better deal. There might be a recommended fluid from Honda for SH-AWD but I'm not sure, definitely not the same as M/ATF otherwise the TC would be closed case and part of the trans assembly.