SammyZ

That rattling noise has been bothering me ever since I first heard it 2 years ago, glad I waited and didn't spend any $ to rectify the issue (your exhaustive list of repair attempts reassured this is most likely a manufacturer design flaw). Just did oil consumption test today, dealer said to come back every 1000km for three times - fingers crossed my car will fail this test!

I have a 2014 TL A-SPEC, 3.7L engine like everyone who's plagued by this problem.

mrphilipanderson

I few people here syphoned oil to fail I read and got the fix. Just sayin'. They had to do what they had to do..
All you need to be is a quart low....

mrphilipanderson

AND THE DAMNED RATTLE ON ACCELERATION AFTER START UP IS BACK. WTF!?!?!?!
HOW? WHY? After my oil consumption repair I went 7 THOUSAND MILES without that rattle and its back now.
WHY GOD!? WHY!?!?!??!?!?! Right now I so angry at this car. Its so inconsistent!

shoe07

I had a rattle after accidentally filling with 87 Aki. After driving for a couple days topped up with 93, a few more days topped up again and it hasn’t come back. Is it possible you or another driver put the wrong fuel in? Do you use 91 or 93 aki?

badbart

Just posting here to say I had "the rattle" as well and may have a potential fix, or at the least a bandaid. My symptoms were the ping/rattle at 1500-2000RPM under load. Basically I feel the transmission programming is lugging the engine a little too much and it should be down shifting anyway, so it indirectly causes the problem. You can do the same thing in a manual by not shifting soon enough causing potential pre-ignition ping problems, never had the issue on an automatic before however.

Anyway, I wanted to make sure it wasn't an octane issue so I went hunting for one of those generic "Octane Boosters" at the local parts store. Trying to rule out fuel as a cause. I had already tried several different stations in the area trying to get it to go away. BP, Kwik-Star, Sam's Club etc. There are others in the area but Sam's is about as risky as I get with my fuel. We only have 2 93 Octane stations and they are on opposite sides of town from me, and one of them is a Murphy at Wal-Mart ironically.

My hunt lead me to Autozone and they had a new product in there (I swear I'm not a paid spokesperson... bear with me) Lucas has a new Octane Booster (big red bottle) that claims to eliminate pinging.

I was skeptical as I had already tried the Lucas Complete Fuel cleaner suggested elsewhere on here and it didn't seem to help too much. It was definitely still there when not completely warmed up (like 20 minutes of highway driving warmed up).

BUT. The Octane Booster did indeed remove the ping/rattle after about 20 miles of mixed driving. I have only had one other tank of fuel after the additive (Sam's 91), but it hasn't come back yet. I figured it would be right back after filling up without the additive. If it works even for a few months at a time, it's a well spent $12. You don't have to put premium in there with it, so your net cost on that tank is only $6ish.

As a bonus, it was pretty fun to drive when the additive was in there.

Give it a try and report back, maybe I am the only one it will work for but hopefully it will help others.

SammyZ

I have been using Gumout for the past 2 months, a similar fuel additive to what you are using, and I must admit - it eliminated rattle noise, not 100% though.

Viscidity

so have you done anything about the problem? I hear my rattling sometimes again and its real annoying lol

mrphilipanderson

yes its carbon build up for those who idle a lot. However the fix is sswitching to pennzoil ulltra platinum. It worked for me. its a cleaner oil that literally does not consume. try on your next oil change. Report back

Viscidity

ahhh that's interesting! I have been thinking it was piston slapping coming back or something. I will definitely give this a go. Thanks!

mrphilipanderson

also make sure it’s ULTRA PLATINUM. Walmart has the best price. Also I used seam foam to clean the crank case first. Meaning I followed the directions and added the proper amount in the oil. Drove it for 300 miles with seafoam In The oil. I then changed the oil and filled with penzsoil ultra platinum. Within 100 miles the rattle was gone. I also reduced the amount that I idle. What brought idiling to me attention is I use an app that tracks driving habits. And I idled a looooooooooooooot. Sitting in car listening to music, also using remote start for ten minutes in morning. So I make sure I’m conciliatory about idling. And the rattle is history. Occasional of ive idles for a long time it will try to come back but I believe the pennzoil keeps it from fully caking up with carbon. Private message me for more detail.

Viscidity

If anyone else has this rattling, give seafoam into the oil crankcase and use the seafoam SPRAY into the intake valve as well. Doing both, I had a crazy amount of carbon knock down into my cat and my rattle has vanquished! car also runs much quieter with less ticking and has more low rpm torque. This was done on my 2011 TL with 134k km. Highly recommend his fix!

dzionny_dzionassi

vtec260

I did Seafoam treatment to the engine crankcase and to the gas tank about a month ago. Drove about 500km and performed oil change to see if Seafoam made any difference. I had used Seafoam about 10 years ago on my 2003 TL-S and didn't see a huge change, probably since it had no engine issues and crankcase looked very clean prior to using Seafoam.

On my 2012 with rattling noise, I was impressed how much rattle noise was subdued when accelerating 20-30km/h on a slight incline. All the roads that I previously had this noise, I went back and drove same way and that noise is pretty much gone. I am still waiting for the parts for oil consumption repair from the dealer, so hopefully, that's more permanent fix. I highly recommend giving Seafoam a try as there is very little to lose (just some carbon buildup). BTW, I used Penzzoil Platinum afterwards, not Ultra, and still felt the difference.

mrphilipanderson

Ultra PLatinum is the fix. Even after they do the rebuild on your engine within 10,000 miles that same rattle wil return. The sheer design of the engine is what causes such rapid build up. Ultra platinum design for the hellcat can take INTENSE pressure and demands and cleans like no other oil ive tried. And Ive tried them all. Im proud of you though for taking the plunge. it sucks that such a beautiful machine is prone to something as unbecoming as a rattle on accelration, where are you located its the acceleration is the thrill of teh drive

vtec260

I had Seafoam in the garage that I bought a few years ago that I forgot about. When I found it, why not give it a try to my surprise. I have a lot of 5w20 oils stocked up at home of various brands so I might just change the oil at 50% MID which is about 5000km for me. I don't hit vtec too often as my commute it pretty tame. I am in Calgary so I might enjoy Rocky Mountain drive more once this rattle is fixed permanently.

SSBlackBroly

Hey I know this is really late but did you ever find out the problem? I have a similar problem too. I’m positively sure it’s not anything to do with the engine or the transmission in my case. I was thinking it was the first catalytic converter. Also I just got a P0420 code aswell so I think I found the problem 🤦🏾‍♂️. I have a 2012 TL sh-awd btw.

ackermanapps

I searched for months to find this, finally a post on Reddit called it out for me. There is an in-line transmission fluid filter underneath the battery. It is a small plastic in-line filter. When I removed it, you could shake it and it sounded like a rattling spray paint can. Put the new one in and the noise went away. My mechanic could not believe that all the issue was, but it was only a $35 part. Certainly worth the effort to see if that is indeed the issue.

meowmeows

Nice find, hope it stays away for you!

Mine has a manual transmission and still occasionally makes the noise, unfortunately. It happens most frequently at lower rpm, heavier load, especially if restarting the car after it's been sitting for 5-60 minutes.

eatmydust__

Hi everyone,

Though I am a few years late I have found the source of the annoying marble like sound coming from my 2014 Acura TL. It’s nothing under the hood, it was the WEATHER STRIPS around my windshield. This material is a thin rubber that keeps the elements out, however with usual wear and tear I assume it became detached. It’s like a rubber band smacking your windshield at 60 mph! I had glued it back down on both the driver and passenger side and haven’t heard the noise since! Hope this helps

Brewcity

Hey guys...sorry to dig up an old post...but has anyone found a real 100% fix for this?
I have a 2012 TL SH-AWD 3.7 with 130,000 miles, and this just started happening to me.
I am freaking out, as I just purchased the car back in January...so still owe quite a bit on it.

Please let me know if someone knows of the permanent fix for this. I am hoping its just the heat shield or cat!

mrphilipanderson

Everyone will give you their two cents on this topic. And then there are people waiting to dispute what someone says worked for them. I suggest you scroll up and check has worked for others. Feel free to DM me and I can share what's worked for me.

Brewcity

Thank you for the reply. I have read the entire forum, and it seems, like you, many people have tried a bunch of different things to no avail.
I really don’t want to keep throwing money at the problem, and not have it fixed. Especially since I am out of warranty….so the engine overhaul is not an option.

I am going to try the Transfer Case fluid exchange next Friday at my local Acura dealership.
I really hope that works…but it sounds like you have had fixes, and 7000 miles later, the rattling is back. That is SO frustrating.

mrphilipanderson

Do you idle a lot?

mrphilipanderson

My fix I suggested is less than 100 dollars. You will pay double that for a transfer case fluid exchange which has absolutel nothing to do with it. Ive had my car for along time. Its rattle free. It wasnt at one time. But now it is. I change all my fluid myself, including transfer case. But He I gave you the option to DM me, you didn't so best of luck. Hope it all works out.
If changing the transfer case makes it stop come back, let us know.

Brewcity

Hi…I didn’t mean to offend you whatsoever…I was just making an observation.
I will gladly pm you if you still don’t mind.

To answer the idle question…no, I do not idle a lot. Probably average to below.
I would still really appreciate you help and knowledge…as it seems you have been dealing with this issue for awhile, and are quite versed on the subject.
Just let me know if it’s still alright, and I’ll send you a message.

Thanks!

mrphilipanderson

Not offended. I just know this can easily become a lord of the rings journey chasing the solution. I'll send you a message in a few.

Brewcity

Gotcha….I totally understand.
I appreciate all your help! Thank you.

badbart

The issue with this thread is that there are several "rattling noises" this car makes around certain RPM's and the have various causes. I have encountered 3 of them so far. The transmission shudder when it's lugging the engine is one, the filter replacement helps with that, the pinging from low octane/poor quality fuel is another, that you can fix with a good fuel system cleaner/octane booster and paying attention to what stations cause the problem (not all 91 octane is equal I've found), and now I have the rattle under load that I think mrphilipanderson has been fighting with. All three are different noises, but they could all be similarly described. Anyone making it this far in this thread- don't lose heart, but do try different angles. Start with the cheapest fixes, and work your way up.

The easiest one to narrow down is the transmission one, that one you can feel, the others are noise only. Trans issue is a shudder/vibration and a lower frequency noise, more of a bass rumble.

The octane one is more of a "click" noise under acceleration in that 1000-2000RPM range.

The one I have now is more of a fast tin can rattle. It could be the heat shield... but its awfully particular about when it rattles if so. I've had that issue on other cars in the past, so if that's it it should get louder over time as the shield decays further and gets more loose. This one hits around 2000-2500RPM. I think it matches up with the carbon build up issues by description so far.

mrphilipanderson

ey Bro i sent you a few DMs (Direct mesages).

mrphilipanderson

Of course Bro. Send me a message.

vertigo2

Had this issue twice, in that same RPM range. Spot welds on heat shields popped and allowed them to rattle around exactly as you describe.

Frankyy

Hi mrphilipanderson little off topic just purchased a 2014 Acura TL FWD with 32K Millie’s about 1 year now I been using Amsoil since alot of 4G Owners been using it
What are your thoughts on Amsoil vs Pennzoil ultra Platinum? Thanks in advance

mrphilipanderson

Everyone has their opinion about oil. I tried em all, from the most expensive and rare to the basic.
The one that gave me the smoothest sounding revs, the one that always had little to no oil consumption was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20.
It wasn't until I went to this oil exclusively did a lot of my issues surrounding Oil consumption, sticky oil rings, etc...all went away when i started using this oil.My maintenance minder ALWAYS reaches zero at approximately 3000, and I change it at approximately 3000 miles.

WDPanda

I can vouch for pennzoil ultra platinum. Burns less in my 3.5 vs other brands and feels alot more smoother and quieter after an oil change.

FlyingDagger

They are probably the two best oils. I lean towards Pennzoil UP or the UP high mileage because they are essentially just as good but half the price and way easier to acquire. At the end of the day, you would probably notice a bigger difference changing the at 3k instead of 5k than between the the two best oils. The Pennzoil lets you do the 3k changes for the same price as changing the Amsoil at 5k.

The Amsoil comes in 4L sizes right? That's annoying. You need 5. Personally I feel like that extra Amsoil money is better spent on a nice cabin air filter, PIAA aero vogue wipers and refills.

S2000 filters fit and are slightly larger so more surface area, wont cost any more assuming the same filter brand.

FlyingDagger

Mmhmm, now this is the one I think I have. Lugging the engine does not like a technical term so what exactly do you mean? What was the solution?

I feel like comments are going to be about the auto..

I notice a rattle seemingly coming from under the stick shift when I am engine braking. Accelerating up to 6k is fine, but then when the gas is let off and the engine braking starts it goes nuts. I pretty much ruled out items in the car rattle because of where the sound is coming from. Items in the car rattle all the time so it can be a little tricky but this coming from under somewhere.

badbart

Yes, this is an automatic transmission issue, and lugging is a fairly accepted term in the automotive industry. If you look up "engine lugging" you should get several articles on why it's bad etc. Being that you are the one determining the shift points as it is a manual, this could still be happening I suppose, but it would be from a different cause ;-)

How many miles? Is the clutch solid? I could see potentially the clutch slipping during heavy engine braking, not sure I've ever experienced that before on any of my stick shift cars, but in theory it seems like a possibility.

badbart

@vertigo2 What did you do to remedy the situation, replace the heat shield? Which heat shield? I've had the ones go on the cats before, but not other locations. I just had my shop rip the shield off the cat in those situations and promised not to drive over dry grass.

FlyingDagger

80k, feels fine to me. I am not downshifting just so we are clear. I am only letting off the throttle. I don't really understand how the clutch could slip in that situation.

I did see someone mention that changing the clutch without replacing the flywheel could cause chatter. I don't know if the owner before me did that, but even if he did would that chatter come from underneath the shifter and mainly during engine braking?

vertigo2

The shelds on the cats. Just tore them right off.