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when I accelerate, I hear a rattling noise in the driver side front of the car. I have a 2010 acura TL sh-awd. Anyone have this problem and have a fix? Thanks.
This is odd timing to see this on here, I too am having a similar issue with my 13' SH-AWD Advance. It only seems to happen after the car is turned off and then on again after just having been driven and only after about 40-50 percent throttle application. For example, I get in the car in the morning and there is no issue. When i get to where I am going, turn the car off and then after about 10 minutes set off again is when I will notice it. It wont occur under very light throttle application. It sounds like what I would describe as a diesel engine noise rattle (knocking) under medium to heavy acceleration and only happens while on the accelerator. It also goes away (or decreases to a point where I dont notice it due to road noise) after a while of driving. It seems directly associated with throttle position and appears to be coming from under the middle of the engine (if that even makes sense, I mean it seems central not driver or passenger side and slightly ahead of where sitting in the car).
Wow, this is gonna sound like a conspiracy theory but mine has been doing the same thing as of a month ago. I thought it was the engine pinging or knocking as it sort of sounds like marbles in a can, it happens the same times that you describe, JordanF. Though I think mine happens in the morning. The car is garaged and it only happens during medium or higher throttle a few minutes into the start of a drive.
^^ What you guys are describing is spark knock. Are you using premium fuel? The car has an anti-knock sensor that should retard timing when it senses spark knock.
Thank goodness, I am not the only one. My rattling happens in 2nd/3rd gear going up incline only, accelerating at 2-3000 rpm. Going downhill or flat road, no noise. Just uphill. I'd love to find out what's happening and find a solution for it. I have 2012 SH-AWD with 100000km. Propeller shaft has been replaced 75000km ago by the previous owner.
I have that same metallic sound (pinging sound). I have used premium since I got the car at 93,000 KM. Tried different gas stations same brand (Shell 91) still pings then switched to Petro Canada 94 reduced a bit but still pings. One thing I noticed during colder days which we have now the ping reduces significantly after I start the car second time.
Lately I hear some rattling sound (as if some kind of tiny metal parts floating around) on the passenger side.
^^ What you guys are describing is spark knock. Are you using premium fuel? The car has an anti-knock sensor that should retard timing when it senses spark knock.
I don't know if I'm ignorant but I really have a hard time believing the sound I'm hearing is spark knock?
It's a very predominant sound that happens only shortly after the car is started and when on the gas pedal. If I let off the gas and then re-apply the sound is gone. Sounds just like you're shaking a rattle can of spray paint for a second. Performance does not feel affected.
Mine does it but only when accelerating somewhat hard from a stop. It might not be the same thing the rest of you are describing. Being paranoid, I think it's probably a transmission problem - either a clutch pack, torque converter or stator (since it only does it in 1st gear). But I can't get it to do it in any other gear, even when downshifting at high speeds or gunning it at low speeds. And it doesn't do it if I let the car roll just a second before hitting the gas.
My ATF is a little high, probably 1/3 to 1/2 inch past the "hot" mark on the dipstick. I was going to try draining a bit to see if maybe having too much fluid it causing it.
I don't know if I'm ignorant but I really have a hard time believing the sound I'm hearing is spark knock?
It's a very predominant sound that happens only shortly after the car is started and when on the gas pedal. If I let off the gas and then re-apply the sound is gone. Sounds just like you're shaking a rattle can of spray paint for a second. Performance does not feel affected.
If it sounds like ball bearings being rattled around in a coffee can, it's likely spark knock, especially if you experience it only upon acceleration. As someone suggested above, it should throw a code if that is happening.
I don't think spark knock will cause a CEL. And I don't know where it's stored in the ECU (of if it even is). When my engine was burning a ton of oil and all gummed up with carbon I was getting a TON of knock. I mean like, 1970's old Chevy V8 overheating kind of knock. Knock so loud that you'd think I had a diesel engine kind of knock (in other words, a lot of knock.....). It was bad. REAL bad. I've never heard those noises from a modern engine. And over a month or so of dealing with it - no CEL whatsoever. No misfires and no O2 errors even though I was burning about a quart every 100-300 miles. Those NGK iridiums are hella bulletproof. The electrode wasn't just coated in burnt carbon, but literally coated in wet oil and kept on firing.
I've since fixed the oil control ring as well as cleaned up the cylinder and exhaust valves that were gummed up. Now I love my car again There's an add-on to the Torque app which will detect knock and provide info on when it happened and the severity based on how much timing was pulled. During acceleration, the ECU was pulling up to 14 degrees of timing due to knock. Now I can barely get it to pull 0.5 degrees, and only when the engine is really hot and I punch it (220F+ when the fans kick in). That's so light it could very well be due to background noise. So I know my problem isn't knock. I'm guessing transmission, driveaxles, suspension or motor mounts. Unfortunately, that doesn't narrow it down much.....
I've got the same problem - it started as the temps dropped. It seems eerily reminiscent of knock brought on by a sluggish EGR valve. It would make sense if the temps have dropped and the EGR isn't responding properly when the intake air temp is colder than normal.
It has gotten worse for me as temperatures have started to drop, also having a bit of a screech on first cold startup in the morning which is probably from one of the belts? Temperatures have been around -5 to -10 (14-23F) lately. I have almost always used Shell V-Power 91 and switching over to Petro Ultra 91 seemed to very very slightly make a difference but maybe a placebo effect? I have adapted my driving style to be very light on the throttle after starting the car up on stop and go trips after the very first start of the day so I dont notice it as much and hopefully it is not something serious...
It doesn't happen all the time, but if it does, it always occurs when I apply the throttle (mid to heavy) for the first 10 mins of driving, when the engine is warm (i.e., engine closed-loop operating mode).
The car has been filled up with nothing but 91-octane gas since day 1.
Chevron gas has the least chance of pinging, whereas all other gas brands will cause more pinging occurrences.
I don't know. Maybe carbon built-up inside the cylinder heads ?
I am bringing my TL to the dealer this evening to have it looked at (100,000 mile warranty has paid for itself already) and will let everyone know what they turn up.
Guys I have been experiencing the same problems. Ironically, I see a member has replaced the propeller shaft. I did the same at about 30k. I also had the issue with the transmission under a recall and had it re-programmed. I am also experiencing the vehicle burning oil (about 1.5 quarts) in between every oil change and currently undergoing an oil consumption test. My car is also rattling during initial acceleration (usually from a stop) after turning the vehicle on. I use nothing but 91-93 octane. To me it seems like an issue with the transmission or egr. A lot of issues for a luxury vehicle with 56k! When I drop of the car next week for the oil consumption reading I will have them keep the car over night. The rattling seems to get better once the car warms.
If I may, the symptoms y'all describe sound a lot like what I'm currently experiencing with my 2G TL, especially the bit about rattling only when on the accelerator. I believe my problem to be a loose, rattling belt tensioner. Just a thought.
The dealer did diagnose it is 'pinging', due to combustion. They stated that when they were unable to find a fix for it, they contacted the Acura tech line. Acura stated that this is a common problem that surfaces every fall when the temperatures drop. It is a combination of deposits on the piston crown edge and valve surfaces, and the switch a lot of stations make to a winter fuel blend that has a lower boil-off point. Acura recommended a top-end engine cleaning, coupled with a fuel systems treatment.
The mechanic at my Acura dealer told me before I did any of that, to run a can of SeaFoam through each tank of gas, and to spray SeaFoam into the intake (following proper methods that can be found on-line). He said if that didn't work, then he suggested removing the top cover of the intake plenum and seeing if there are deposits, as well as possibly using a borescope to examine the valves.
I'm going to start with the SeaFoam recommendation, even though I've never been a fan of 'Tune-Up In A Can' type products.
Interesting that the Acura tech recommended Seafoam. I thought they didn't really promote the use of additives.
It's worth a try though. Also, you might consider Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank. I've had positive experiences with it. It's relatively inexpensive. You just add 4oz. per 10 gallons of gas. It's not as aggressive as Seafoam but I've noticed a smoother idle since I began using it.
I was a little surprised as well, but I have a history with the dealership of troubleshooting my cars prior to dropping them off. At first it annoyed them, but they've come to not second guess me. They also know I do most of my own maintenance (including timing belts), so I think the mechanic knew I would probably remedy it myself, anyways. I just wanted them to troubleshoot it under the warranty.
As an aside, the mechanic was as perplexed as I was why the ECU wasn't detecting the knock and logging it in as a fault. He was going to do some digging in Acura's database in his spare time and get back to me.
I picked up a 2010 SH AWD 6 speed manual and really like the car but have noticed even with 91 premium the engine pings if under a load at low RPM. The owners manual even states that when this happens to just shift to a lower gear??? Seems to me it should have a knock sensor to retard the timing but must not. Easy thing to do is use Amoco premium fuel which is 93 octane and problem solved. I have also added octane boost to the 91 premium but that's a hassle for every tank. Hope that helps
I've found that mine (also a 6MT) is a little more responsive and gets slightly better mpg on 93 versus 91 octane. No spark knock on either grade, though.
Stumbled on this thread while searching for something else.
Glad I'm not alone, but also concerning to see that it might be worse for the engine than I thought.
I've run a few bottles of fuel system cleaners during long distance trips and it made no difference.
Not sure if it is coincidence, but I started getting belt noises (slight screech at cold startup followed by mild hissing / squealing until warmed up),
so I plan on slapping on a new belt first. I'll most likely replace all the pulleys and such when I do the TB.
Here is my plan of action for now:
1. Serpentine belt
2. Spark plugs
Then later, when maintenance minder demands it, do the TB and WP, along with all pulleys and tensioners in the way.
Same issue here, would be great if someone tracks down the source. I feel it’s related to the oil consumption and it’s not an inexpensive fix. Mine is often when driving low speed but accelerating up a hill or on ramp. Sounds like a Diesel engine.
SO MANY times I thought it was fixed and after a few miles from the shop, the metallic gargle/rattle sound occurs. For me, its NEVER on a cold start. ALWAYS after the car is warmed up, driven for a while.
in an effort to get rid of this gargle/rattle sound talked about in this thread.....and many other common issues among us TL OWNERS such as, whistle sound during highway Driving, idle-dipping/stall issue happening on inclines, Knocking/pinging at start up, and MASSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION.
I have replaced:
• Transmission (TWICE): After replacing Erratic Shifting Went away. Jerking and Shuddering went away.
• Torqu Converter (twice): After replacing Erratic Shifting Went away. Jerking and Shuddering went away.
• Drive Shaft/Propeller Shaft : After replacing whistle,screech sound when driving went away
• Belt Tensioner: After Replacing Knocking Pinging, ticking sounds went away
• ALL BELTS: After Replacing Knocking Pinging, ticking sounds went away
• Waterpump: After Replacing Knocking Pinging, ticking sounds went away
• Mass Airflow Sensor: After Replacing the mysterious stall during delicate acceleration went away. • Throttle Body: Seemed to give me more robust idle and acceleration
I have noticed that The rattle goes away with EACH repair.the car drives smooth and silent with a perfect engine growl until about 400 miles. The gargle/rattle returns after just a hundred miles of driving or so or after one good day of driving, idling and city driving. The rattle ONLY seems to occur during take off between 0mph and 20mph. Never at highway speeds. Never at solid idle. It seems to be effected by pressing the gas pedal. Even if in park, on a hit engine, if i gas it it will gargle/rattle. Its not all the time though. But I notice it ONLY after the engine is hot. After years and tons of money and time and research im thinking its the Catalytic converter Heat shield. i am CERTAIN this is NOT an octane issue. I have NEVER ONCE used less than 91 Octane at premium gas stations. If I still have this same rattle after replacing ALL This...it HAS to be the CAT heat shield.
I now am noticing HIGH oil consumption and have a schedule oil consumption test with my next oil change in two days. Just about 1000 after oil change they said to bring it back to the dealer and they will test to see if its within factory specializations.
It was 2 quarts Low between full synthetic oil changes! I never bothered to add or check the oil levels before they alerted me to the low oil levels. Low oil levels can attribute to infinite knocks, pings, whistles, rattles and a bunch of engine UNDERperformance symptoms.
Hopefully this will save you guys time and money if you have had any of these same issues.
Last edited by mrphilipanderson; 02-27-2018 at 01:59 PM.
To update in my case, I am only hearing the noise after I have driven the car for a decent amount of time, turn it off, and then start it again when the engine is already warm, and give the car more than 1/4 throttle. It is pretty predictable now, but will only last for the first couple minutes of the drive.
I am also starting to see oil consumption. Is this related? not sure. I do know when I did a cross Canada road trip a few years back I did not consume any oil at all and now I believe I'm seeing some consumption but will be keeping a close eye.
To update in my case, I am only hearing the noise after I have driven the car for a decent amount of time, turn it off, and then start it again when the engine is already warm, and give the car more than 1/4 throttle. It is pretty predictable now, but will only last for the first couple minutes of the drive.
I am also starting to see oil consumption. Is this related? not sure. I do know when I did a cross Canada road trip a few years back I did not consume any oil at all and now I believe I'm seeing some consumption but will be keeping a close eye.
Let us know what your test reveals. I started my oil consumption text yesterday. Im hoping its within the normal range.
SO MANY times I thought it was fixed and after a few miles from the shop, the metallic gargle/rattle sound occurs. For me, its NEVER on a cold start. ALWAYS after the car is warmed up, driven for a while.
in an effort to get rid of this gargle/rattle sound talked about in this thread.....and many other common issues among us TL OWNERS such as, whistle sound during highway Driving, idle-dipping/stall issue happening on inclines, Knocking/pinging at start up, and MASSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION.
I now am noticing HIGH oil consumption and have a schedule oil consumption test with my next oil change in two days. Just about 1000 after oil change they said to bring it back to the dealer and they will test to see if its within factory specializations.
It was 2 quarts Low between full synthetic oil changes! I never bothered to add or check the oil levels before they alerted me to the low oil levels. Low oil levels can attribute to infinite knocks, pings, whistles, rattles and a bunch of engine UNDERperformance symptoms.
Hopefully this will save you guys time and money if you have had any of these same issues.
Great info, thanks for sharing. My guess is that they will tell you that 1 quart per 1000 is "normal", which in my opinion isn't. I'll check my CC heat shield.
10-11-2017, 09:25 AM
Knock so loud that you'd think I had a diesel engine kind of knock (in other words, a lot of knock.....). It was bad. REAL bad. I've never heard those noises from a modern engine. And over a month or so of dealing with it - no CEL whatsoever. No misfires and no O2 errors even though I was burning about a quart every 100-300 miles. Those NGK iridiums are hella bulletproof. The electrode wasn't just coated in burnt carbon, but literally coated in wet oil and kept on firing.
There's an add-on to the Torque app which will detect knock and provide info on when it happened and the severity based on how much timing was pulled. During acceleration, the ECU was pulling up to 14 degrees of timing due to knock. 
Now I can barely get it to pull 0.5 degrees, and only when the engine is really hot and I punch it (220F+ when the fans kick in). That's so light it could very well be due to background noise. So I know my problem isn't knock. I'm guessing transmission, driveaxles, suspension or motor mounts. Unfortunately, that doesn't narrow it down much.....
Engine pinging noise
Same freakin issue here!!
