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Upon scanning it with Blue Driver it stated that it was the Bank 1 and Bank 2 issue. I brought it to the dealer to look at during my oil change and they reset the alert. They indicated it's a catalytic converter will be needed if it comes back on again. That's like $2K (I have reached out to another mechanics and I didn't get a whole lot of explanation and the price for this repair is around the same). I had inquired if it's the oxygen sensor and the dealer said no. I'm no expert in the area but I'm wondering what's the data really tell now after the reset.
I have a 2014 Acura TL Tech with 93K miles on it. A few weeks ago, I saw a check an Engine Emission Control alert on the vehicle.
Upon scanning it with Blue Driver it stated that it was the Bank 1 and Bank 2 issue. I brought it to the dealer to look at during my oil change and they reset the alert. They indicated it's a catalytic converter will be needed if it comes back on again. That's like $2K (I have reached out to another mechanics and I didn't get a whole lot of explanation and the price for this repair is around the same). I had inquired if it's the oxygen sensor and the dealer said no. I'm no expert in the area but I'm wondering what's the data really tell now after the reset.
Has the light come back on since it was reset? If not, I'd leave it alone.
Originally Posted by thoiboi
Replace the downstream O2 sensor first. if that doesn't fix it, then you'll have to replace the cat
Pretty much. The P0420 is your bank 1 downstream O2 sensor which unfortunately, is the bank toward the back of the engine bay up against the firewall. You'll have to access the sensor from under the car. The cable goes up toward the top though, closer to the driver side of the engine bay. I'd definitely do the O2 sensor first since the catalytic converter is pretty expensive and much more difficult to replace.
If you want to consider doing it yourself, there's plenty of aftermarket downstream O2 sensors that will work just fine. For upstream O2/Fuel air ratio sensors you should always use OEM. But for downstream, you can go aftermarket. If you're interested I can provide a few links. They're much less expensive than OEM.
If you replace the downstream O2 sensor and you still get the code, it could very well be the catalytic converter. Again, there are both OEM and aftermarket options which are much less expensive than buying from the dealer.
Oh, and don't worry about all the indicators that the "test has not yet completed". When the ECU is reset, it takes a while for all of those tests to complete. It could take up to a couple of days and 100 miles or so. From what you've posted, you clearly have a downstream O2 sensor triggering which is either the sensor itself or the catalytic converter. There's a chance it could be something like a misfire or other sensor causing the engine to run rich but then you'd likely see other codes as well. If it's just the P0420, it's almost always just the sensor or cat.
Has the light come back on since it was reset? If not, I'd leave it alone.
Pretty much. The P0420 is your bank 1 downstream O2 sensor which unfortunately, is the bank toward the back of the engine bay up against the firewall. You'll have to access the sensor from under the car. The cable goes up toward the top though, closer to the driver side of the engine bay. I'd definitely do the O2 sensor first since the catalytic converter is pretty expensive and much more difficult to replace.
If you want to consider doing it yourself, there's plenty of aftermarket downstream O2 sensors that will work just fine. For upstream O2/Fuel air ratio sensors you should always use OEM. But for downstream, you can go aftermarket. If you're interested I can provide a few links. They're much less expensive than OEM.
If you replace the downstream O2 sensor and you still get the code, it could very well be the catalytic converter. Again, there are both OEM and aftermarket options which are much less expensive than buying from the dealer.
Oh, and don't worry about all the indicators that the "test has not yet completed". When the ECU is reset, it takes a while for all of those tests to complete. It could take up to a couple of days and 100 miles or so. From what you've posted, you clearly have a downstream O2 sensor triggering which is either the sensor itself or the catalytic converter. There's a chance it could be something like a misfire or other sensor causing the engine to run rich but then you'd likely see other codes as well. If it's just the P0420, it's almost always just the sensor or cat.
Has the light come back on since it was reset? If not, I'd leave it alone.
Pretty much. The P0420 is your bank 1 downstream O2 sensor which unfortunately, is the bank toward the back of the engine bay up against the firewall. You'll have to access the sensor from under the car. The cable goes up toward the top though, closer to the driver side of the engine bay. I'd definitely do the O2 sensor first since the catalytic converter is pretty expensive and much more difficult to replace.
If you want to consider doing it yourself, there's plenty of aftermarket downstream O2 sensors that will work just fine. For upstream O2/Fuel air ratio sensors you should always use OEM. But for downstream, you can go aftermarket. If you're interested I can provide a few links. They're much less expensive than OEM.
If you replace the downstream O2 sensor and you still get the code, it could very well be the catalytic converter. Again, there are both OEM and aftermarket options which are much less expensive than buying from the dealer.
Oh, and don't worry about all the indicators that the "test has not yet completed". When the ECU is reset, it takes a while for all of those tests to complete. It could take up to a couple of days and 100 miles or so. From what you've posted, you clearly have a downstream O2 sensor triggering which is either the sensor itself or the catalytic converter. There's a chance it could be something like a misfire or other sensor causing the engine to run rich but then you'd likely see other codes as well. If it's just the P0420, it's almost always just the sensor or cat.
Thanks, please share the suggested links to other O2 sensor. If the catalytic converter is bad, are there other non-OEM brands just as good replacement?
But if you're willing to go aftermarket you can get them as cheap as $20 or so. My aftermarket ones have worked fine after about a year. Here's one on eBay:
A popular alternative to stock cats are the high flow cats that RV6 offers. You have to buy them in a pair though, and they're not stock. They have 200 cells instead of the 900 (I believe....) that stock does. This may not be the way you want to go though, if you want to keep your car strictly stock. Plus, the set itself if more expensive than even purchasing a new one from Acuraoemparts. $575. But they'll give ya some extra ponies. I installed them on both my 3G and 4G TL's and love em.
But if you're willing to go aftermarket you can get them as cheap as $20 or so. My aftermarket ones have worked fine after about a year. Here's one on eBay:
A popular alternative to stock cats are the high flow cats that RV6 offers. You have to buy them in a pair though, and they're not stock. They have 200 cells instead of the 900 (I believe....) that stock does. This may not be the way you want to go though, if you want to keep your car strictly stock. Plus, the set itself if more expensive than even purchasing a new one from Acuraoemparts. $575. But they'll give ya some extra ponies. I installed them on both my 3G and 4G TL's and love em.
I have a 2014 Acura TL Tech with 93K miles on it. A few weeks ago, I saw a check an Engine Emission Control alert on the vehicle.
Upon scanning it with Blue Driver it stated that it was the Bank 1 and Bank 2 issue. I brought it to the dealer to look at during my oil change and they reset the alert. They indicated it's a catalytic converter will be needed if it comes back on again. That's like $2K (I have reached out to another mechanics and I didn't get a whole lot of explanation and the price for this repair is around the same). I had inquired if it's the oxygen sensor and the dealer said no. I'm no expert in the area but I'm wondering what's the data really tell now after the reset.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
I had similar isse and two dealers tried to sell me on replacing Cat (theres three on this car if not mistaken). Turns out It was my purge valve/ EVAP. Replaced it and it was fixed. Maybe...hopefully it will be your fix?
Need help on P0420 Issue or something else??
