Key Fobs revisited after extensive searching
Key Fobs revisited after extensive searching
First, by way of confession, I am the newbie that weeks ago posted the longest post in the history of this forum so I offer an apology to all, but issues were detailed. Still NO excuse and vow to do MUCH better. I have a small question with Key fobs that I never found answered my question 100% doing multiple searches- or, at age 65, I just did not absorb it. I am an electrical engineer by trade with a masters degree, but I am now 65 and retired where I used my traits designing steel processing lines for the largest integrated mills in Gary, IN. steel manufacturers. That work paled to my frustration with Acura system!! With keyless entry, proximity unlock and push-button start, I fear a second key is non-negotiable..My education means squat! I thought my E39 BMW was challenging. NOT! With respect to my 2009 TL with tech. pkg, push-button start, no key slot, bought used with 61000 miles from dealer and only got the #1 driver fob. Ordered a used #2 on Ebay that came with an already cut key and it was linked to another TL before. All numbers match, meaning parts number, FCC number, yada yada. Now locksmith changes his tune and says a pre-programed FOB will only work with car it originally was mated to. Referred to automotive store that just does key issues. Does fobs and keys every day.So,working now with a very high-end locksmith with the equipment to program, but because it was already linked to another car, he says "forget it" If they had been able to get the fob to work, I was then, and only then, going to buy the blank key for this #2 fob and have it cut for my car. Are there concerns about doing it this way? I had no idea buying a blank key on Ebay raised issue of whether chip in key itself could be programmed with a new fob. Thoughts? Can blank key be bought and cut AFTER fob communication issues are resolved? Do I need a special key itself to work with the new, #2 fob? Short of going to dealer mainly as they are over an hour away, what id deal with key and key chip must match car or at least virgin #2 FOB?? Help.
Spoke with an even more reputable locksmith whom I knew could do Acura and sought his advise. He said a fob and key already tied to another car could not be made to work on my car. Bottomline, I had hom order a virgin #2 fob, a blank key, and he seems confident he can do and still save me money. Nearest Acura dealer in is INDY-hour away.
He is ordering me a #2 fob, but I am concerned because he says their #2 for have that usually missing open trunk push button which I see is missing from most #2s. Does he need to be aware of what "chip" is inside my existing Driver #1 key. Does he need to verify that the new, virgin fob and key will match my existing #1 fob? He did not ask my vin# nor did he scan or even see my good #1 fob. It it equally important that chip embedded in key ids correct or can he change that? Virgin Fob was $219, programming $55 and cutting key based on my driver 1 key is $42. Not cheap, but almost $100 cheaper than Acura dealer 60 miles away. Comments-concerns??
Spoke with an even more reputable locksmith whom I knew could do Acura and sought his advise. He said a fob and key already tied to another car could not be made to work on my car. Bottomline, I had hom order a virgin #2 fob, a blank key, and he seems confident he can do and still save me money. Nearest Acura dealer in is INDY-hour away.
He is ordering me a #2 fob, but I am concerned because he says their #2 for have that usually missing open trunk push button which I see is missing from most #2s. Does he need to be aware of what "chip" is inside my existing Driver #1 key. Does he need to verify that the new, virgin fob and key will match my existing #1 fob? He did not ask my vin# nor did he scan or even see my good #1 fob. It it equally important that chip embedded in key ids correct or can he change that? Virgin Fob was $219, programming $55 and cutting key based on my driver 1 key is $42. Not cheap, but almost $100 cheaper than Acura dealer 60 miles away. Comments-concerns??
I don't have any experience re-programming used or new key fobs, but I can definitely tell you that both #1 and #2 keys have a trunk open button on them. I've been using my #2 since I bought my used TL 5 years ago, just because it cosmetically looked nicer than the #1 key from the original owner lol. I've used the #1 key on occasion, like getting into the trunk while it was parked at my mechanic's shop, so I didn't need to wait for them find the key for me. All functionality is identical between them.
Methinks that by the time your tail-chasing is done...you'll have spent more money and time on circumventing the dealership, than just going ahead and have the dealership make you an OEM Driver #2 key. I currently have (3) Acuras (1 Tech and 2 Base) and I can tell you 1st hand that most locksmiths do not understand how the Acura fob is tied to the car system at an extra level above transponder chip and door locks / alarm.
Well, old-timers must be setting in! Fully wary of the limitations of what you see on the internet/Ebay, I could "swear" that while scrolling Ebay listings for Acura keyless remote, I noted that ALL #1 driver fobs had 4 buttons, but that I saw #2 driver fobs that were identical in every way except that the truck release button was not there. I ASSumed that for whatever reason, Acura had a reason... Went back to Ebay just now, entered same search criteria, and I'll be damned that I could not find any 3 button fobs. I have no clue what I might have seen. Thank you kindly for your reply! Now, where did I put my vitamins...I know they are around here somewhere. Dementia is not reversible, right? LOL Bill
Still seeking insight on "chip" embedded in key itself. Does the programmer even need to care about it or is it just that every fob key has a chip and that the car reads it (whatever is coded on that chip does not matter) except that chip and fob using it must match, just that car sees the chip and the chip info must coincide correctly with the cars remote receiver for the fob containing that key/chip?. If so, I would guess that another cars remote could be re-programmed to work with a different car, but when car sees a wrong key chip, it says "fail"? Am I even close? Is it the key's chip which the car's remote receiver counts when allowing only 3 fobs being accepted before it will over-write the first keys programming?
Still seeking insight on "chip" embedded in key itself. Does the programmer even need to care about it or is it just that every fob key has a chip and that the car reads it (whatever is coded on that chip does not matter) except that chip and fob using it must match, just that car sees the chip and the chip info must coincide correctly with the cars remote receiver for the fob containing that key/chip?. If so, I would guess that another cars remote could be re-programmed to work with a different car, but when car sees a wrong key chip, it says "fail"? Am I even close? Is it the key's chip which the car's remote receiver counts when allowing only 3 fobs being accepted before it will over-write the first keys programming?
You can go to a honda dealer and they will use HDS (honda diagnostic system) to add a key and remove the keys you don't have for 1 hr of labor. The car pretty much needs to learn the signal from the remote and make sure it's rolling code system is programmed (think of your typical garage door opener). All genuine acura fobs should have lock/unlock/trunk/panic and the button for the key to come out. (IF IT HAS KEYLESS ACCESS) I bought mine from acuraoemparts for under $150 and paid honda $90 to program it to my car and remove the other key that I didn't have.
You might be seeing switchblade keys for the base models that do not have the keyless access where you can walk up to the car and pull on the front handles to unlock.
You might be seeing switchblade keys for the base models that do not have the keyless access where you can walk up to the car and pull on the front handles to unlock.
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