So i recently replaced my alternator. It was whining and the check charging system message came up. After I replaced it, it'll start but really slow and then when it starts there's a real loud ticking noise near the back of the engine and all the lights and power are super unstable (brightening and dimming) but even the windows roll and stop repeatedly if you try to roll them down or up. It's like everything electrical is just unstable now. Did I break it by trying to fix it?

 

could be a belt tension issue as well. What alternator brand did you go with?

 

So I just replaced the battery and its still doing it but not near as bad. Tensioner seems to have some bounce but I dont know how much bounce is too much bounce. Im not sure what you mean by what alternators.

 

Sorry, pressed enter before finishing my thought. Was curious on the brand of alternator you put in.

Also if you look closely on the belt auto tensioner, there's a range it tells you it's in . When was the last time you replaced the belt/tensioner/ how many miles are on it?

 

It was totalpro, I cant find the range that youre talking about but it doesnt seem like too much. Im not sure how many miles are on it. I got it a few days ago its got a rebuilt title and you can tell its been in a wreck but before the alternator went out it wasn't doing this. I gave it a little rev to see if it would brighten, of course it did. But im starting to notice a knocking sound but not really like engine knock it just sounds plastic against plastic but its in the bottom engine area. The cars 120k on the dash.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412

You haven't shared year and engine size of your car so i just assumed it was a 2011 with the 3.5 (vs 3.7L engine), I would replace it with a Denso reman' over some random no-name alternator...

Before buying a new alternator though, I would replace the belt and tensioner with a Gates belt and tensioner: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=11659&jsn=585

The OE alternator could still be good.

 

its a 09 tl awd with the 3.7L non tech package I already bought and replaced it and the battery but the voltage fluctuates from 11 to 13 really fast

 

same kit as above luckily: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ensioner,11659

I'd replace that next.. still sounds like a bad belt or new alternator could still be have /have a bad voltage regulator.

 

bad connection somewhere (loose, corroded wire, etc.) or bad diodes/voltage rectifier in your new alternator. Did you go with a reman or new denso alternator?

 

Crazy thing is my cel is gone and no codes will pull besides the obvious ones that were wrong to begin with like tpms and shawd and check emissions and check airbag, I know it sounds like a lot but to be fair I got the car to be a fixer upper im just doing a lot more fixing on one thing than i would like. Ill get that kit and let you guys know how that does

 

Nothing crazy about that, you disconnected the battery when replacing the alternator so the ECU is reset along with any codes stored.. as you drive more, if the issues are still there, the codes will re-occur.

 

a reman but all the wires are good and alternator check says good its just weird that it didn't do this and now it does. I have noticed there is one missing ground from my terminal to my block but I can't say for certain as all the diagrams I try to find are never the full spec as my car