HELP! - Oil Pan Drain Plug Stripped
#1
HELP! - Oil Pan Drain Plug Stripped
Hey Guys,
Hoping to get some insight today.
I'm 99% sure that either my oil pan, or oil drain plug is stripped on my 2010 Acura TL SHAWD 3.7L
I have a few questions.
1) Has anyone ever replaced the oil pan on one of these vehicles? Do you need to remove the engine or can it be done on the car?
2) If it's doable on the car and someone has done it, do you have any tips for me?
Oil pan is fairly inexpensive, $130, and i already purchased a new plug to try out tonight.
Thanks!
Hoping to get some insight today.
I'm 99% sure that either my oil pan, or oil drain plug is stripped on my 2010 Acura TL SHAWD 3.7L
I have a few questions.
1) Has anyone ever replaced the oil pan on one of these vehicles? Do you need to remove the engine or can it be done on the car?
2) If it's doable on the car and someone has done it, do you have any tips for me?
Oil pan is fairly inexpensive, $130, and i already purchased a new plug to try out tonight.
Thanks!
#2
Senior Moderator
Try new plug first if not replace oil pan. You may have to drop subframe
#3
2010 TL SH-AWD
No need to remove subframe. The 2x 10mm bolt on each corner that is parallel to the subframe is very accessible with a small ratchet. Lots of room to tilt the pan and slide it out.
But you do need to remove the J-pipe exhaust.
But you do need to remove the J-pipe exhaust.
#4
Drifting
There are other options too, short of replacing the entire oil pan. There are various oil drain plugs made for these situations: expanding oil plugs, slightly over-sized oil plugs and re-threading/cutting oil plugs. I would at least try a re-threading oil plug before you go about replacing the entire pan. I used one on my 98 Prelude back in the day and it perfectly re-threaded the plug hole to where an OEM plug fit right back in.
#5
Thanks for the replies everyone.
I purchased a new bolt from Acura and it was about 3mm longer than the stock bolt.
Turns out there was 4 threads in the drain that the old bolt didn't touch.
I was able to put the new bolt in, with new washer, and it's not leaking.
For now I'll keep a close eye on it and see how it progresses.
If I need to I will try re-threading it, then an expanding bolt, and finally a new pan if needed.
I purchased a new bolt from Acura and it was about 3mm longer than the stock bolt.
Turns out there was 4 threads in the drain that the old bolt didn't touch.
I was able to put the new bolt in, with new washer, and it's not leaking.
For now I'll keep a close eye on it and see how it progresses.
If I need to I will try re-threading it, then an expanding bolt, and finally a new pan if needed.
#6
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (6)
Thanks for the replies everyone.
I purchased a new bolt from Acura and it was about 3mm longer than the stock bolt.
Turns out there was 4 threads in the drain that the old bolt didn't touch.
I was able to put the new bolt in, with new washer, and it's not leaking.
For now I'll keep a close eye on it and see how it progresses.
If I need to I will try re-threading it, then an expanding bolt, and finally a new pan if needed.
I purchased a new bolt from Acura and it was about 3mm longer than the stock bolt.
Turns out there was 4 threads in the drain that the old bolt didn't touch.
I was able to put the new bolt in, with new washer, and it's not leaking.
For now I'll keep a close eye on it and see how it progresses.
If I need to I will try re-threading it, then an expanding bolt, and finally a new pan if needed.
On another note, buy a torque wrench people. I was young and didn't know any better.
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