Cracked headlight housings
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Cracked headlight housings
I was wondering if anyone else had a similar issue...
I have a 2010 sh-awd 6mt, and I have been noticing condensation in the headlights.
I looked at the headlights, and on both sides, I noticed a small crack that extends from the bottom edge up about 1/3 of the way to the top. The cracks are located at the point where the lens turns to run down the side of the car, right at the outboard edge of the hid projector.
I called the dealership and they are booking appointments out a week and a half... :-(
I have a 2010 sh-awd 6mt, and I have been noticing condensation in the headlights.
I looked at the headlights, and on both sides, I noticed a small crack that extends from the bottom edge up about 1/3 of the way to the top. The cracks are located at the point where the lens turns to run down the side of the car, right at the outboard edge of the hid projector.
I called the dealership and they are booking appointments out a week and a half... :-(
#2
Burning Brakes
Seems strange that you have symmetrical cracks...but not impossible. Are you certain they are cracks and not simply a "crease" in the lenses from manufacture? Is the condensation in both?
Curiously enough, I created a thread asking about headlight (bulb) replacement back in April, as my passenger side went out. The thread is here. Since then, I ordered a pair of replacement bulbs from iJDMtoy, which just arrived. Price was right, compared to the alternatives, and I'm curious to see how they work out. Plus it gave me an excuse to order some leds that I needed.
Since ordering them, however, I've realized that I've got a cracked headlight as well, which may have led to the burnout. I had seen the crack before, but didn't think it was big enough to be a problem. Apparently, I was wrong. These pics show the condensation after it dried out a bit:
I only noticed because I had my car in for some paint repair on a fender (not my fault) and was questioning whether I wanted the grill to be paint matched; while looking at it the paint guy pointed it out.
My question is, since my car is out of warranty, I really don't want to bring to the dealer for the work. What's better for a headlight; a mechanic, or a body shop? I also have (on order) two replacement fogs, as I have a hole in the passenger side (that side seems to take a beating).
Curiously enough, I created a thread asking about headlight (bulb) replacement back in April, as my passenger side went out. The thread is here. Since then, I ordered a pair of replacement bulbs from iJDMtoy, which just arrived. Price was right, compared to the alternatives, and I'm curious to see how they work out. Plus it gave me an excuse to order some leds that I needed.
Since ordering them, however, I've realized that I've got a cracked headlight as well, which may have led to the burnout. I had seen the crack before, but didn't think it was big enough to be a problem. Apparently, I was wrong. These pics show the condensation after it dried out a bit:
I only noticed because I had my car in for some paint repair on a fender (not my fault) and was questioning whether I wanted the grill to be paint matched; while looking at it the paint guy pointed it out.
My question is, since my car is out of warranty, I really don't want to bring to the dealer for the work. What's better for a headlight; a mechanic, or a body shop? I also have (on order) two replacement fogs, as I have a hole in the passenger side (that side seems to take a beating).
The following users liked this post:
echodigital (05-23-2014)
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Quick update, I forwarded the pictures off to the service rep, and made an appointment for the headlights housings to be replaced. June 5 is the date.
The only question asked was if the car had ever been in an accident.
Will report more after the appointment.
The only question asked was if the car had ever been in an accident.
Will report more after the appointment.
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#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
The headlights housings were replaced under warranty this week. They are good as new again.
Kudos to Northwest Acura in Calgary. They provided a 2014 RDX as a loaner, and did great work.
Kudos to Northwest Acura in Calgary. They provided a 2014 RDX as a loaner, and did great work.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
At least they didn't try to tell me it's normal, and to drive around with the high beams on to dry them out like a dodge dealership tried telling me on a previous car...
It's this kind of service that makes for a loyal customer...
It's this kind of service that makes for a loyal customer...
#12
Burning Brakes
So I brought my car in to have the passenger headlight housing replaced, along with the HIDs on both sides, and the fog housings. Thought I got away with a pretty "good" deal, ordering the replacement housing from AcuraOEMparts (thereby saving about $200 off the cost of buying from the dealer here).
Just got a call from the mechaninc, though...seems the ballast is full of water, along with every connection on that side. New ballast will run about $350, on top of the headlight housing. And people complain that the german whips are expensive to repair.
Lesson learned...if there's water in the housing, get it fixed yesterday.
Just got a call from the mechaninc, though...seems the ballast is full of water, along with every connection on that side. New ballast will run about $350, on top of the headlight housing. And people complain that the german whips are expensive to repair.
Lesson learned...if there's water in the housing, get it fixed yesterday.
#13
Moderator
"seems" or did you actually see it yourself?? ballast are IMO waterproof.. especially oem.. so for it to be "full of water" is kind of a bs excuses for them to jip you
its cheaper to just go aftermarket.. its like 130 bucks for a 3five hid kit from TRS.
its cheaper to just go aftermarket.. its like 130 bucks for a 3five hid kit from TRS.
#14
Burning Brakes
^ I've been going to this particular mechanic since I had my '85 Fiero...a long time. I trust them. I don't like that everytime they fix something, another part goes haywire, but I've never been able to chalk that up to anything but coincidence. If they say it's full of water, it's full of water. That also explains why the HID bulb went.
#15
Moderator
the bulb being wet has nothing to do with the ballast being wet.. the bulb sits within the headlight once mounted with a waterproof cover on the back. The ballast sits under the headlight on the outside.. two seperate things.. we can all assume that the bulb being wet is because you got condensation.
Your housing can be saved, i could save it, its a easy fix. Open it up, repair the crack with some bondo, paint the housing black and seal it back up with some butyl.. its the same as blacking out headlights besides you are fixing a slight crack..
I for one, will never fork out 500+ for a headlight... especially when there is only a crack on the housing.. bring it to a retrofiter.. he can take care of it for you for cheap and also make it black housing
Your housing can be saved, i could save it, its a easy fix. Open it up, repair the crack with some bondo, paint the housing black and seal it back up with some butyl.. its the same as blacking out headlights besides you are fixing a slight crack..
I for one, will never fork out 500+ for a headlight... especially when there is only a crack on the housing.. bring it to a retrofiter.. he can take care of it for you for cheap and also make it black housing
#16
2G TLX-S
^^^^^
Agree with Pot.
The ballast is located outside the headlight unit. So, unless the ballast housing is also cracked ..... in a collision maybe ?
Agree with Pot.
The ballast is located outside the headlight unit. So, unless the ballast housing is also cracked ..... in a collision maybe ?
#17
Burning Brakes
No collision, and the ballast was indeed compromised by water. I got the parts back after the repairs were completed. Although it's "sealed", the seal is not perfect, and eventually water gets in if it's coming through the housing. I'm still surprised that so much water could get in from such an insignificant crack.
After the repairs were completed, I drove the car home, and then on my way to work the next morning, a taxi kicked up something and I could hear it "thud" against the brand new headlight. Not even 10 miles on it. It appeared abraided, but on closer inspection it was something sticky on whatever slammed into the new headlight.
Notwithstanding my trust for this mechanic, I may need to look for a new one after all. They swapped out both highbeam bulbs, on side marker (due to water) and the passenger HID, but left the driver alone. Seems it was a PITA to change??? I told him it needed to be swapped, as it would be a different colour (new 6000K from iJDMToy vs 5 year old stock 4300K), but he claimed it was the same colour. I don't need to tell anyone here how far off he was.
I've looked at the service manual, and the instructions for HID replacement require removal of the wheel and the inner fender. Does anyone know if it can be done without removing the wheel? I don't want to have to find a torque wrench, and jack the car up if it can be avoided. Thanks.
After the repairs were completed, I drove the car home, and then on my way to work the next morning, a taxi kicked up something and I could hear it "thud" against the brand new headlight. Not even 10 miles on it. It appeared abraided, but on closer inspection it was something sticky on whatever slammed into the new headlight.
Notwithstanding my trust for this mechanic, I may need to look for a new one after all. They swapped out both highbeam bulbs, on side marker (due to water) and the passenger HID, but left the driver alone. Seems it was a PITA to change??? I told him it needed to be swapped, as it would be a different colour (new 6000K from iJDMToy vs 5 year old stock 4300K), but he claimed it was the same colour. I don't need to tell anyone here how far off he was.
I've looked at the service manual, and the instructions for HID replacement require removal of the wheel and the inner fender. Does anyone know if it can be done without removing the wheel? I don't want to have to find a torque wrench, and jack the car up if it can be avoided. Thanks.
#18
Moderator
you could turn your wheel pointing inwards to get space.. but ultimately if you want to get it done fast then you have to jack up the side that you are doing and let the wheel hang while its turned either in or out.
seems like its causing you to have more problems.. should have just brought it to someone that retrofits.. atleast there is no issues after you leave.
seems like its causing you to have more problems.. should have just brought it to someone that retrofits.. atleast there is no issues after you leave.
#19
Burning Brakes
[QUOTE=potmilkz;15060251].. should have just brought it to someone that retrofits.../QUOTE]
Except, I don't even know what that means. What is "someone that retrofits"?
Except, I don't even know what that means. What is "someone that retrofits"?
The following users liked this post:
echodigital (06-25-2014)
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sockpuppet (06-25-2014)
#23
Burning Brakes
Actually, about a 3 hour drive away, but I do agree. Until I saw your post, I assumed the shop he linked to was in SoCal. At least seeing their website does explain the type of outfit he was referring to.
#24
Same issue condensation in a headlight
Hey guys,
I have some strange cracks as well and a condensation issue. I thought it was my bulb so I upgraded my current LED with some new ones from IJDM and I am still having an issue. Do you think it's the cracks causing the issue? I only have Acura plus warranty so I doubt it would be under warranty. Attached pictures
I have some strange cracks as well and a condensation issue. I thought it was my bulb so I upgraded my current LED with some new ones from IJDM and I am still having an issue. Do you think it's the cracks causing the issue? I only have Acura plus warranty so I doubt it would be under warranty. Attached pictures
Last edited by Osman.S; 10-28-2014 at 05:57 PM.
#26
rock the block
i'm confused...why would you assume that your bulb needed to be replaced if you had water in your headlights?
Repair the cracks with some bondo or silicon, use some silica packs to soak up the existing moisture and reseal using a healthy amount of butyl glue
Repair the cracks with some bondo or silicon, use some silica packs to soak up the existing moisture and reseal using a healthy amount of butyl glue
#28
rock the block
ahh I see. weird that the bulb would ever be loose in the first place, those should be in nice and snug. best of luck with the lens repair, nothing worse than wet headlights on a nice car
#29
Thanks for the link to the other thread guys. Definitely helpful to prove that it has happened before and was warrantied.
Hopefully I can get it resolved asap before I burn out any bulbs.
Hopefully I can get it resolved asap before I burn out any bulbs.
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