After replacing the alternator in my '12 TL I decided to keep the original (vs. getting a $15 core refund) to try and rebuild it, mostly for the learning experience, but if I'm successful, I have a spare. Easy enough to get a rebuild kit and a replacement diode. I'm handy but this is my first alternator.

So, while disassembling it, the contacts where the diode is crimped on to the armature were soldered - with a big glob of what appeared to be copper. I wasn't expecting this (the diagrams I saw showed crimped connections there - I watched a couple youtube videos trying to find other Honda alternators and those weren't soldered either.) I was able to pop the solder off by flexing it until it broke off, and the wires were clean underneath, but I'm concerned: I have soldering tools from my electronics hobby, but do I need to get copper solder so the metals match? (I'm assuming there would be potential tin whisker or galvanic corrosion problem, if I used different metals.) I've never seen copper solder before - is it common in the automotive world or do I need to go to some specialty vendor for it?

 

i just rebuilt mine yesterday. I was going to buy the $30 kit from ebay, but glad I didn't. Decided to go to Larry's Auto Electric in Melbourne, FL. He told me that the kit would not fix the problem. Sold me a rectifier for $40 and brushes were $5 which I didn't really need according to him. I didn't get them. He took time to explain how to replace the rectifier, basically take a wire cutter and snip off the 3 sets of 2 copper tips. Then you have to carefully disengage the other connection on top. I took the brush assembly off and cleaned the contact areas off with a q tip and rubbing alcohol. The plastic brush housing has a small perforation hole in the top where you put one side of a small needlenose or similar to hold the brushes back to get it back down onto the shaft. You slide it down and remount it on the alternator. He gave me a little piece of solder that was not copper. Crimp and resolder the 3 sets of 2 and other contact point. He said the reason this model fails (car just turned 140k) is due to the excess heat being so close to the exhaust manifold and it makes twice the power than the older models. Put everything back together and checked out to a little over 14.1 output. Great guy he was. He gets $180 for a rebuilt and I saw some on ebay with warranty for $110. Worst part of the job was the r&r of the unit. Hope this helps.