When accelerating from a stop using moderate to full throttle, the car does not accelerate in a linear fashion. If you watch the RPMs, the needle will begin to rise then actually pause around 2000 RPM, and then start moving upwards again.

You can hear and feel this too. You hear the engine begin to rev up as the car launches, then you hear/feel it bog down, then after about a second or two it takes off again.

I drove a FWD TL as a loaner car and it didn't do this at all. The engine revved very smooth during hard acceleration. I realize this is a different engine though.

If you are an owner of a SH-AWD TL can you please tell me if you do or do not experience this issue. The dealer, of course, tells me it is "normal". By the way, this is 100% repeatable.

 

Yes, it's normal and I've noticed it in my car.

My interpretation is that the electronic throttle control is stepping in to smooth out a fast launch and maintain traction.

I get the feeling that this, and the fact that you can't get an automatic 2012+ TL to stay in 1st gear, means that Acura is a little bit worried about shock inputs to the AWD system with the low first gear torque multiplication.

I notice it less when you disable traction control, so you could try that out but I wouldn't leave it off for any amount of time.

 

So it's a $40k luxury car with a built-in hesitation when you get on the gas... Seems legit. I was hoping something was wrong so I could get it fixed.

 

I'm not sure what you were cross shopping, but there aren't many luxury cars out there that will let you peel out anymore. Everything I drove would cut power a lot more noticeably than the TL.

 

I thought only FWD cars have traction issues during fast launching.

AWD, especially our "SUPER-HANDLING" AWD, should NEVER have any traction issue during fast launching, due to the fact that torque is automatically diverted to the rear wheels of the car if the fronts start losing traction and slipping.

 

I'm not interested in peeling out. But it's annoying that the engine bogs down during a launch. It's like there's a "dead spot" in the power band around 2000 rpm. It's just disappointing.

 

Actually, I think what your seeing is the stall speed of the torque converter. The engine rpm will stay constant until the output shaft (turbine) can catch up with the input shaft (impeller). While it's stalling, it's delivering max torque.

So in reality, I believe you are witnessing correct behavior, and in fact, what you think is a performance hit (engine bog), is in fact max torque delivery for the given throttle input.

Watch the speedo instead. See if that 'bogs'. Better yet, get or borrow a GPS (or use your phone app) that can record you speed and you can download it to Excel and make a chart. I'd bet you don't see a "bogging" of the speed.

 

Did you turn traction control off? Try that.

 

No, I haven't tried that. It's my understanding that the traction control icon will flash in the instrument panel whenever it engages. That's only happened a couple of times, in wet and snowy weather.

When I accelerate on dry pavement the traction control has never engaged, according to the flashing icon in the instrument panel.

Are you saying that the traction control could possibly cut engine power during acceleration but not flash the icon? I will give it a try and find out when I have the opportunity.

 

Maybe worth disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and re-connecting it (negative wire). Go for a drive after, push it a bit accelerating in high RPMs and throw in some long decelerations with your foot off the gas... so that after 2-3 drive cycles it can re-learn the fuel maps. It may just be the case that its responding to what it has learned.

Other thing you may want to try is go to a reputable dealer and ask them to check if the right software version is loaded in the car from the factory. There isn't any real reason to tell them to do it other than the symptoms you describe. Of course they may want to reproduce the issue but that would take time. A simple check of the software using their HDS tablet will save time. If you are right I am sure you pay nothing but if you are wrong then probably they'll charge you for their time.

 

Not necessarily, but it takes not time to try it, so it is worth trying.

 

No difference with or without traction control. It just seems like there is a lack of torque at 2000rpm. Dealer says it's normal and 1 person on this thread also says their car does it too.

Any other SH-AWD owners willing to reply?

 

Like I said, I don't think it's anything to do with the engine or rpm, just the electronic throttle control.

The car is definitely faster off the line if you apply throttle gradually instead of just mashing the pedal.

You can also try launching with a brake stand to get your revs up above 2000 rpm. I think you'll feel the car is still going to ease into the launch if the pedal is on the floor.

 

I'm not trying to drive the TL like a race car. I was just curious if the choppy acceleration (below 2000 rpm) was normal. Once the engine revs past this, acceleration is smooth and linear.

 

My point is that I think that what you're feeling has nothing to do with engine rpm and that you would still feel it taking off at higher revs, which you could only test with a brake stand.

 

I have a similar problem as Op. Sometimes first gear is perfect and there is a lot of power, wheels spin etc. Other times there is no power and first gear is choppy. It has nothing to do with how I press the gas. It is almost night and day. If it's hot and humid it's 10x worse. Cold weather or when first driving the car it is usually fine.

 

No, that isn't the same issue that I'm dealing with.

 

a few folks on the 2G MDX forum installed an aftermarket J-pipe that added a bit of power in the lower end of the powerband and reported better MPG and less hesitation/stuttering as you are describing. I honestly feel the J3X motors don't have enough power below 1500 RPMS to move the AWD system and it causes bogging down.

Another member mentioned that heat is a huge factor with his car. It could be very much the "heatsoak" issue that the 3G TL had causing it to be down on power. I'm going to look and see if we can do the ultimate cooling mod on the 4G TL. With winter coming around the corner it'll help validate if heatsoak is the cause.

 

I'm convinced it's just a lack of torque below 2000 rpm combined with the AWD system (as stated by a previous poster). It's really not a big deal, I love my car, but this one "flaw" has always annoyed me.

 

It is possible to get more power out of that engine... but the only REAL way is to re-program the programmable fuel injection. Unfortunately Honda has done a good job locking it down and leaving not much room to re-program that thing. Its not "open source" - lol.

J-pipes, catbacks, intakes, throttle spacers, pulleys (and a couple of red stripes on the hood - lol) may help get you little power for a lot of money. Not worth it.

 

A J-pipe is giving folks gains of 15WHP and 12WTQ minimum on the 3G TL side, and since we have the same engine as a TL-S and the same crap J-pipe it's natural to assume that 4G guys can get a good gain in power from it. For you it may not be worth it but it may be worth it to other folks.

Do white pinstripes count?

 

Mine 2012 SH-AWD does the exact same thing, except the rpms vary a little bit from the 2000 mark. It will not do this on full acceleration, but most other moderate levels of acceleration. I actually can watch the "blip" in the rpm levels AND I feel the hesitation. It is independent of traction control. It also is independent of brands of gas. I only use 93 octane and always have. I have used 2 or 3 different fuel system cleaners to no avail.


I took it to the dealer, and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and there were no error codes. I asked to speak with the tech who drove it. He told me he felt and noticed it, but assumes that it is "normal". I still don't believe that. I had an 05 TL and never experienced anything like this. I also have an 08 MDX SH-AWD and don't have a problem with that one either. Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

Yes, I have had this problem. 2012 AWD, SH. First they upgraded the software. Didn't fix it. Took it back--they found the torque converter needed to be replaced. That has made a noticeable difference, but it is still choppy, primarily on acceleration thru low gears, but also noticeable on deceleration. Although it is not a major issue, I find it incredibly annoying and if it doesn't get resolved, I will soon be an ex-2012 SH AWD owner. I have driven many cars before and this is not what one expects in a luxury car.

 

I know that you guys are talking about the AWD but I have a 2012 with AdvPackg and I notice that same hesitation and when I'm rolling and I get on it when the car downshifts I notice the rpm guage jumps up then it goes down with a bog and then it catches itself and pulls out again. Not sure if this is a compression problem or torque, a friend said I might be loosing compression. Does anyone know if this might be true?

 

Torque converter or the Traction control cutting fuel to prevent skidding.

 

Has there been any update to a TSB for the 2012 with the torque convertor?

 

I also feel the exact same way. The car seems to take off harder at around 3/4 throttle.

 

All the above for my 2011 TL. Super frustrating. Once in a blue moon it won't happen. Really miss the acceleration of my old G35. I won't be buying another Acura, primarily because quality has gone down hill while prices continue to go up, and the whole oil burning issue that Acura wouldn't fix because I missed the deadline by 14 days.

 

I have a 2013 TL SH-AWD 6MT. I had hesitation while shifting through the gears between 1.5 and 3000 rpms. Not every time but it started happening more. I would shift and step on the gas the rpms would drop 100 to 400 rpms then come back and accelerate normal. I took it to acura thinking it's a clutch problem. They checked it out and the mechanic said nothing is wrong and thats normal. So the service advisor asked me to come in and test drive with mechanic. I did and then he saw what I was talking about and said its a dual friction clutch and thats normal to have the hesitation. I didn't feel like arguing with him and planned on taking for a 2nd opinion. They kept the car to wash it and I picked it up the next day. When I left the dealership Saturday now instead of dropping when hesitating now the rpms are surging like 400 rpms then comes back and normal acceleration. I got almost home and called them up to bitch and say I was taking it elsewhere. The service advisor asked me to bring it back in and that normally he would have gotten the shop Forman on this type of problem but he was on vaca. He said he comes back today and he would have a loaner waiting for me to have him check. Mind you he didn't charge me for the diagnostic before because they didn't find anything. So I'm giving him another shot today. We'll for sonereason this morning I got the itch to check my oil. I normally always change my oil myself but last time I had a free oil change coupon through Firestone and it was cold out when I wanted to do it. Son of a bitch I had my oil change a month and a half ago and when I checked the oil today I had to ADD 3 QUARTS! You bet now the problem has all but gone away. Now it happens very slightly not often at all. I'm still bringing it in today to make sure I'm not losing oil and check to see if any permanent damage was done but I'm telling you I believe Firestone screwed me.

 

3.7L TL engines burn oil at higher miles, sometimes as low as 50K miles. Some burn more than a quart every 1000 miles which would have gotten a brand new engine under acura's TSB acknowledging the issue.

 

I understand your point and they mentioned that as well at the dealer. My point is I have never lost any oil and the rpm surging concerned me a lot. I have a fresh oil change and got a valve adjustment. I'm going to keep an eye on oil consumption but I doubt it will consume. I just think not enough oil was put in but we will see

 

whoever experienced this issue - were you able to fix it ? If so kindly advise what was the fix ?
I just got a used 2012 Acura TL SH-AWD recently and it is exhibiting this behavior so would really love to get this resolved.
Thanks!

 

Could this by any chance be related to any rattles or noises that could be trigerring the knock sensor ? leading to a timing retard and thus loss of power ? I had a rattle from the under carraige cat heatshield and I put a temporary fix on it since the issue was just on one bolt end (rust). And it seems to have had some positive effect on this issue. Its been just a couple of days so maybe early to tell but it does feel like this under-2k-rpm-bog issue is significantly less. Ofcourse now that this rattle is gone I have to deal with another one which I believe is the timing belt tensioner.
Would have been great if someone could have done some obd logging to see what is happening when this bog occurs.
Anyway, thought I'd mention it rather than not in case it helps further figure out this issue.