Performance mods decision
I spent a lot of money and time, building my 3G Type-S... I had everything possible, the minute it came out
ATLP V1 Quads, ATLP V1 J Pipe, ATLP HFC, RV6 PCDs, UR Pulley, P2R TBS, IMGs, 75A engine mounts, and more... and i dyno'ed every single modification as i installed it... they all gained power. I went from 238whp SAE, to 294whp SAE .. same run temps
the biggest increase was the RV6 PCDs... i gained 21whp/19tq.... at the time, they were $200 for the first deposits on the initial run. such a great purchase, but a real pita to install, and even bigger PITA to uninstall.
ATLP V1 Quads, ATLP V1 J Pipe, ATLP HFC, RV6 PCDs, UR Pulley, P2R TBS, IMGs, 75A engine mounts, and more... and i dyno'ed every single modification as i installed it... they all gained power. I went from 238whp SAE, to 294whp SAE .. same run temps
the biggest increase was the RV6 PCDs... i gained 21whp/19tq.... at the time, they were $200 for the first deposits on the initial run. such a great purchase, but a real pita to install, and even bigger PITA to uninstall.
I spent a lot of money and time, building my 3G Type-S... I had everything possible, the minute it came out
ATLP V1 Quads, ATLP V1 J Pipe, ATLP HFC, RV6 PCDs, UR Pulley, P2R TBS, IMGs, 75A engine mounts, and more... and i dyno'ed every single modification as i installed it... they all gained power. I went from 238whp SAE, to 294whp SAE .. same run temps
the biggest increase was the RV6 PCDs... i gained 21whp/19tq.... at the time, they were $200 for the first deposits on the initial run. such a great purchase, but a real pita to install, and even bigger PITA to uninstall.
ATLP V1 Quads, ATLP V1 J Pipe, ATLP HFC, RV6 PCDs, UR Pulley, P2R TBS, IMGs, 75A engine mounts, and more... and i dyno'ed every single modification as i installed it... they all gained power. I went from 238whp SAE, to 294whp SAE .. same run temps
the biggest increase was the RV6 PCDs... i gained 21whp/19tq.... at the time, they were $200 for the first deposits on the initial run. such a great purchase, but a real pita to install, and even bigger PITA to uninstall.
but who knows when that'll be ready
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my 07 Type S in similar fashion with all of the above. How quick did that car feel at 300whp compared to your stock 4g? I drive the 3g most of the time and leave the bigger 4g @ home for the wife and the kiddo, and keep the miles off. I don't want to make it un-commuter friendly - but I think at 300hp, it should be a pretty formidable sleeper.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 115
From: Pittsburgh
Remember that the intake mani on the new J motors is polycarbonate, not the old aluminum ones like the 2G. The J32A2 actually gets a decent power bump by ditching it's manifold altogether, even if the spacers/power plenums were on, and using the J37 intake mani.
You can still P&P the lower runners, but options on plenums and p&p for the upper intake mani are eliminated with it being a one piece polycarbonate unit now.
I wondered about the heat soak being a bit different as well - obviously the aluminum cast moldied manifolds are going to transfer heat, but how much transfer is really going into the poly manifold, and then on to the aluminum throttle body?
I have the Takeda on my 09 SH-AWD. It's a noisemaker, and does seem to hurt high end in favor of a little low grunt and more noise. I have the PCDs pre-ordered and will be puchasing pulleys, the P2R spacers, the longtube J pipe, polished runners, and an exhaust, and just doing a mass install. I figure it could be a 50whp upgrade across the board, and hopefully closer to 60 than 50.
On a positive note, as of today, the beast is paid off though, so I've got a 22k mile CPO SH-AWD car with lots of life and warranty left in it to start putting that $700 a month under the hood.
You can still P&P the lower runners, but options on plenums and p&p for the upper intake mani are eliminated with it being a one piece polycarbonate unit now.
I wondered about the heat soak being a bit different as well - obviously the aluminum cast moldied manifolds are going to transfer heat, but how much transfer is really going into the poly manifold, and then on to the aluminum throttle body?
I have the Takeda on my 09 SH-AWD. It's a noisemaker, and does seem to hurt high end in favor of a little low grunt and more noise. I have the PCDs pre-ordered and will be puchasing pulleys, the P2R spacers, the longtube J pipe, polished runners, and an exhaust, and just doing a mass install. I figure it could be a 50whp upgrade across the board, and hopefully closer to 60 than 50.
On a positive note, as of today, the beast is paid off though, so I've got a 22k mile CPO SH-AWD car with lots of life and warranty left in it to start putting that $700 a month under the hood.
IM is magnesium... and it can extruded and honed. Whenever you do runners and IM just make sure you have it bench tested...
http://extrudehone.com/index.php
^do great work.
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my 07 Type S in similar fashion with all of the above. How quick did that car feel at 300whp compared to your stock 4g? I drive the 3g most of the time and leave the bigger 4g @ home for the wife and the kiddo, and keep the miles off. I don't want to make it un-commuter friendly - but I think at 300hp, it should be a pretty formidable sleeper.
Off the line, i have taken out some of the below
335xi coupe (stock)
335i sedan (stock)
Audi S4 (B5/B6 body style) not to heavily modded
Porsche Boxster (non s/non turbo)
G35/G37s (some stock, some modded, all N/A)
350Z
Switching to my 4G, was a culture shock.... it was incredibly slowed. The 4G out handled the 3G in all aspects...
On my type-s, i installed XLR8 75A engine mounts... those things minimized torque steer, wheel hop and engine movement. i was able to tear ass from a stop and burn serious clouds of rubber
Suzuka Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 8,490
Likes: 609
Sure Andretti gets 600+ hp out of the Honda Indy motor, but you could spend thousands of dollars chasing a few extra horsepower out of this motor only to face a blown tranny at 65k.
A wise mechanic once gave me some free advice, “If you want a faster car, buy it that way from the factory.”
SAVE YOUR MONEY for a CTS-V.
A wise mechanic once gave me some free advice, “If you want a faster car, buy it that way from the factory.”
SAVE YOUR MONEY for a CTS-V.
^ some people get a thrill out of doing the work themselves, customizing and working with their hands
i could care less about speed... yea, its nice to have some extra power, and my XLR8 setup was close to $2gs, but i dont plan to spend all my money chasing HP. i enjoy the sound more than the power
i could care less about speed... yea, its nice to have some extra power, and my XLR8 setup was close to $2gs, but i dont plan to spend all my money chasing HP. i enjoy the sound more than the power
Money isn't the issue. The Vette and CTS-V are world class performers in their own right, but still just pushrod V8s wrapped in Cavalier grade everything else. I want something that when I go to drive it every day, acts like I expect it to, and when I'm bored with it in 3 years, still has resale value. Pepping it up is a hobby for me, and I have no delusions of beating the ring time for a 7 liter supercharged V8 car.
You'd presume that the same bolt-ons you ran Blackura - on the 4G would yield similar gains with a bit of increase for the displacement. Not that anyone will ever be able to dyno the thing accurately - but 300 WHP (accounting for the displacement and increased drivetrain loss) sounds attainable without compromising dependability.
I had my 03 CL-6 spd fully bolted and it was a blast. My mistake there was doing the lightened fly AND lightened crank pulley - clutch life / drivability were bad.
I'm not going to be racing the car from a dig - but giving the thing some more grunt from 20-80, every day highway driving and acceleration - is the goal. Would be interesting to put my 3G TL S and 4G SH-AWD side by side with the same mods and run them. Now I'm wondering if any of the 3G guys have tried the intake mani off the 4G yet....
You'd presume that the same bolt-ons you ran Blackura - on the 4G would yield similar gains with a bit of increase for the displacement. Not that anyone will ever be able to dyno the thing accurately - but 300 WHP (accounting for the displacement and increased drivetrain loss) sounds attainable without compromising dependability.
I had my 03 CL-6 spd fully bolted and it was a blast. My mistake there was doing the lightened fly AND lightened crank pulley - clutch life / drivability were bad.
I'm not going to be racing the car from a dig - but giving the thing some more grunt from 20-80, every day highway driving and acceleration - is the goal. Would be interesting to put my 3G TL S and 4G SH-AWD side by side with the same mods and run them. Now I'm wondering if any of the 3G guys have tried the intake mani off the 4G yet....
^ you know, for years i have always wanted a good "go" against a 3G
i will tell you, about a year ago or so, when i had my WDP 4G.. i had 2 stop light runs with a KBP 3G Type-s... the type was a 6SPD, and from the sound of it, it only had an intake.
My 4G had the Takeda intake and P2R TB Spacer.... the 3G smoked me, 2x a row, from a stop.... i was hoping it was the 6MT that made the car faster than mine
i will tell you, about a year ago or so, when i had my WDP 4G.. i had 2 stop light runs with a KBP 3G Type-s... the type was a 6SPD, and from the sound of it, it only had an intake.
My 4G had the Takeda intake and P2R TB Spacer.... the 3G smoked me, 2x a row, from a stop.... i was hoping it was the 6MT that made the car faster than mine
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Waddell, AZ
I got all the parts on Friday so after the weekend with the wife I installed the jpipe/cat/intake this morning. Took me 2 hours for the jpipe and cat. The nuts were so tight it took everything i had,...pb blaster, breaker bar, and a lot of strength!!! Everything went pretty smoothe with exception to the cat heat shield,...only 2 of the 4 mounts on the cat line up with the heat shield. The other 2 are way off!!!! but i still was able to put the bolts in to secure the heat shield decently without being able to mount directly to the new cats 2 off center mounts. There is a sensor that is protected by a metal piece that interferes with the new jpipe so i had to removed it,...cant remember what the sensor is but the jpipe protects it lol. The takeda sri took around 20 mins. The only thing that annoyed me was trying to adjust it to the best fit. sound is pretty nice. I feel like the car accelerates a lot faster but it could all be in my head. Don't have a hd camera so no sound clips as of now...working on that. The burning from all the machinery oil used on the pipe/cat was intense at first!!! smokey intense at first. After a few 30 min drives its not as bad but it's still there. Anyone know how long the smell will last? never noticed much of a burning smell on my tundras exhaust components.
Subsonic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 743
Likes: 54
You'd presume that the same bolt-ons you ran Blackura - on the 4G would yield similar gains with a bit of increase for the displacement. Not that anyone will ever be able to dyno the thing accurately - but 300 WHP (accounting for the displacement and increased drivetrain loss) sounds attainable without compromising dependability.
I had my 03 CL-6 spd fully bolted and it was a blast. My mistake there was doing the lightened fly AND lightened crank pulley - clutch life / drivability were bad.
I'm not going to be racing the car from a dig - but giving the thing some more grunt from 20-80, every day highway driving and acceleration - is the goal. Would be interesting to put my 3G TL S and 4G SH-AWD side by side with the same mods and run them. Now I'm wondering if any of the 3G guys have tried the intake mani off the 4G yet....
I had my 03 CL-6 spd fully bolted and it was a blast. My mistake there was doing the lightened fly AND lightened crank pulley - clutch life / drivability were bad.
I'm not going to be racing the car from a dig - but giving the thing some more grunt from 20-80, every day highway driving and acceleration - is the goal. Would be interesting to put my 3G TL S and 4G SH-AWD side by side with the same mods and run them. Now I'm wondering if any of the 3G guys have tried the intake mani off the 4G yet....
Banned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 194
Likes: 33
I'm very happy with my mods and the car is fast enough to get in trouble in no time.
On a separate thread I was considering getting a 370Z Touring, and someone recomended my looking at a GTR. I did over the weekend and I think that is going to be my next purchase. It is just sick in every measurable way. I read somewhere that you can hit 60mph in 2.85 seconds with the launch control? Is that right? I did not test that with the salesman, but just jumping on it was astonishing. I got back into my TL and it felt like a dog.
On a separate thread I was considering getting a 370Z Touring, and someone recomended my looking at a GTR. I did over the weekend and I think that is going to be my next purchase. It is just sick in every measurable way. I read somewhere that you can hit 60mph in 2.85 seconds with the launch control? Is that right? I did not test that with the salesman, but just jumping on it was astonishing. I got back into my TL and it felt like a dog.
Well, comparing a $90k purpose built sports coupe to a $45k all-purpose tourer is a bit extreme....and I adore the bodylines on the new 370z except for the little "asshole" at the middle of the back...what is that thing, a trailer hitch? I digress...
The new GTR they're claiming for 2013 they've got down to 0-60 in 2.7. This isn't the fastest car you can buy for under $100,000 - it's the fastest thing you can buy for under $500,000. Car is absolutely absurd, and a lesson to all the pushrod GM fanboys of the world that a tech car can decimate displacement with precision.
The new GTR they're claiming for 2013 they've got down to 0-60 in 2.7. This isn't the fastest car you can buy for under $100,000 - it's the fastest thing you can buy for under $500,000. Car is absolutely absurd, and a lesson to all the pushrod GM fanboys of the world that a tech car can decimate displacement with precision.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 194
Likes: 33
Well, comparing a $90k purpose built sports coupe to a $45k all-purpose tourer is a bit extreme....and I adore the bodylines on the new 370z except for the little "asshole" at the middle of the back...what is that thing, a trailer hitch? I digress...
The new GTR they're claiming for 2013 they've got down to 0-60 in 2.7. This isn't the fastest car you can buy for under $100,000 - it's the fastest thing you can buy for under $500,000. Car is absolutely absurd, and a lesson to all the pushrod GM fanboys of the world that a tech car can decimate displacement with precision.
The new GTR they're claiming for 2013 they've got down to 0-60 in 2.7. This isn't the fastest car you can buy for under $100,000 - it's the fastest thing you can buy for under $500,000. Car is absolutely absurd, and a lesson to all the pushrod GM fanboys of the world that a tech car can decimate displacement with precision.
Ok, my turn for input
I installed the Takeda SRI Intake on my TL today. I had it once before on my 09 WDP TL, and wasnt very happy with the Top end power loss
This time, I have an XLR8 Exhaust, JPipe & HFC.... So I installed the intake, and took a quick ride... ECU got a full reset
1) I am still able to red line my car... either in S mode or D
2) these is a noticeable bump in low end/mid range power.
3) top end doesn't feel robbed this time, but I only took the car around the block a few times. havent had the chance to go WOT on a highway on-ramp
Install took me about 60 minutes.... with 20 minutes spent on trying to remove the damn crank case coolant line... its such a pain in the ass
Funny thing... i noticed almost NO sound change... i think because my exhaust combo is already very overwhelming
Just an FYI, when you leave the factory tubing in place from the Air Vent on the bumper, it aligns pretty closely with the Takeda SRI filter... so a good portion of the air flowing into the engine, is being drawn from outside via the factory tubing...
I installed the Takeda SRI Intake on my TL today. I had it once before on my 09 WDP TL, and wasnt very happy with the Top end power loss
This time, I have an XLR8 Exhaust, JPipe & HFC.... So I installed the intake, and took a quick ride... ECU got a full reset
1) I am still able to red line my car... either in S mode or D
2) these is a noticeable bump in low end/mid range power.
3) top end doesn't feel robbed this time, but I only took the car around the block a few times. havent had the chance to go WOT on a highway on-ramp
Install took me about 60 minutes.... with 20 minutes spent on trying to remove the damn crank case coolant line... its such a pain in the ass
Funny thing... i noticed almost NO sound change... i think because my exhaust combo is already very overwhelming
Just an FYI, when you leave the factory tubing in place from the Air Vent on the bumper, it aligns pretty closely with the Takeda SRI filter... so a good portion of the air flowing into the engine, is being drawn from outside via the factory tubing...
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