Hows it going everyone I have a question

I’ve pretty much had all the Acura vehicles except the new rlx and mdx. I had base 2012 TL which ran amazing to me, felt smooth and fast and responsive, I recently switch to a 2013 AWD model and there is a big difference in driving and response. To me I feel as is my Base TL was faster and more agile.
is the SHAWD model Detuned? Is there a way we can make is seem as responsive as the base TL
I think Is has to do something with programming and ECU, has anyone thought about swapping ECU’s?
To me the SHAWD feels like a tank and moves like one compared to the Base TL, throttle response power downshifting I have about 2800 miles on it

 

if anything, the 3.7 ecu is tuned for more power.

unfortunately, what you're feeling is weight.
the all wheel drive system is heavy coupled with the heavy automatic transmission, and you have a heavy ass tank.

should have opted for the 6mt as the tranny is a couple hundred pounds lighter.

 

Just shift to sport mode.

 

will the light weight crank pulley do anything, there is a big difference from base to SHAWD. mynameisjacob how does yours feel ?

 

This car is a nose heavy beast. If you are looking for an agile street racer, you'd be better of trading it for an WRX.

 

Well I didn't own a previous generation FWD TL... and I came from a dinky 4-cyl 2006 Accord LX... so the SHAWD TL feels like a beast to me.

I know what you mean tho... the car does feel heavy but I think it does so in a good way. I briefly test drove the FWD tech version of the car and the amount of torque steer really drew me away.

 

has anyone done the Pulley? and will it make a difference ?

 

the light weight pulley will help free up power by reducing rotating mass.
i think the stock pulley weighs close to 10lbs while the light weight pulley weighs about 1lbs.

it will help the car rev faster and the effects can be felt in 1st gear. any gear after first wont have any advantage.

your best bet is to swap wheels for a lighter weight set.
by buying a light weight set of wheels, you will increase acceleration, increase braking, increase agility and nimbleness.

 

OP, you should call Hondata and ask them for an ECU tune...

 

a puny 10hp gain will not make his car any more agile than it is already.

 

OP, you should call Hondata and ask them for an ECU tune...

Fixed
Sorry bro

 

^lol now, its funny.

 

I do and yes I feel as though it does.

Everything Justn said is correct, except that I think it's an advantage that you climb through the rev's quickly in any gear, not just 1st. That said it really makes the car feel quick in 1st gear. Doing just a pulley overall won't make much of a difference although it might feel as though it has.

 

There is nothing wrong with your AWD TL. What you have felt is correct due to :

- 250 lbs additional weight on the AWD TL.
- 19" wheels add more unsprung weight to the AWD TL.
- more parasitic power loss due to the extra AWD mechanical gears on the AWD TL.
- 2 more wheels/tires the AWD TL has to break lose and spin up.

All the above adds up to the sluggishness and the reduced throttle response on the AWD TL, compared to the much simpler and lighter FWD TL.

The extra torque generated by the extra 200cc engine displacement is simply not sufficient to compensate for the lossy and heavy AWD hardware.

However, once the AWD TL encounters curves and corners (as well as in the wet and snow), it will leave the FWD TL in the dust.

 

Don't think you can measurably improve a 4K lb car with 10BHP even if a pulley swap is actually worth 10hp to begin with.

Everybody who makes a change to a car "feels" it but generally the cold hard eye of a dyno does not show it. Honda has done a good job of maxing both the TL engines. Its one reason why add-on mods show very little bang for the buck, especially at the track.

On the displacement increase 3.5 to the 3.7 - 12 cubic inches is not very much. Back in the day when HP was very hard to come by Chevy went from 283 to 327 (44CI) & 327 to 350 (23CI) & 350 to 400 (50CI)

My lawn tractor is 750cc or 45CI

 

Hey OP, a couple things

Sounds like you've got pretty low mileage - you probably drove it politely like the dealer told you and the car learned that behavior. Disconnect the negative on the battery for an hour then take it for a drive. The car will re-learn your driving habits.

As for performance mods, read the threads in the performance section - the good folks here who've tried everything have reported minimal gains. The car is what it is, and anything but forced induction is not going to make much difference.

After 2 years of ownership I can say the TL is a beast on the highway, but any in town driving under 40mph is booooorrrriiiiinnnnngggggg. If you want the best experience from stop signs and red lights keep the A/C off, the rear windows down, and S mode active...and get to know your local gas attendants

 

I think ill start with the pulley, first gear is sluggish in this car.....im waiting for the new TLX then ill make the move

 

Now that ^ will probbbbably make you the happiest.

 

Never heard of this, did you mean up? Why would you want to increase drag?

 

Bad plan - on most modern cars the ECU drops the AC off line during WOT & rear windows down are like speed brakes on an aircraft.

 

and the TL does shut the A/C at WOT.

 

It was a joke, sorry - The TL sucks off the line, unless you're in 2 inches of water or snow

 

^^^^^

Unfortunately, inadequate low-end torque really hurts the lossier (in hp) and heavier AWD sedan off the line.

That's why I keep stressing the necessity of Acura developing torquey V8 and/or force-induced V6, in order to propel it's heavy AWD vehicles with sufficient authority.

 

a turbo 6 would be awesome!!!!!!!!!

 

Or a supercharged V6 which will have no turbo lag but only instant, massive dose of low-end torque.

 

with today's technology, there isnt a "turbo lag" any more.

you get instant torque at low RPM's without all the headaches of a supercharger.

remember, a supercharger is a parasite. it needs about 40hp to produce a marginal 60hp, because its belt driven.
not to mention the heat, a supercharger produces.

 

I rarely drive the TL anymore. RDX is my main DD. There is still some turbo lag. However, as soon as I get into the next house we will trading it for the JGC-V8, I'll have 360 ponies on tap with the same mpgs and no BS lag at the stoplight.

 

Maybe the BMW solution is the way to go : twin turbo in series with one big and one small.

Engage the small one for instant spool up at low rpm, or instead engage the big one for lossless high end power at mid to high rpm.

 

 

I would buy a set of lightest weight tire/wheel combination you can find that you like, that will make the biggest difference for you. Don't waste your money on engine mods if you intend to trade the car in for a TLX once it comes out. It's much easier to get your money back on the wheels/tires than with a pulley that you'll end up leaving on the car when you sell it.

 

^^^^^

Agree.

It has been said from the racing pros, that losing 1 lb of unsprung weight is equivalent to losing 6-10 lbs of static vehicle weight.

Also, lighter tire/wheel combo also results in much better throttle response too.

 

You will find that unless you remotely locate the turbo, that turbocharging creates a lot more underhood heat than supercharging.

You are correct in that a turbo will create more power for a given level of boost because you don't have the parasitic loss from driving the supercharger.