What's a good quality cold air intake and what's the associated costs? How difficult is it to install? What's the HP boost?

 

Takeda air intake,about $300,about 7 HP, an hour if you are mechanically incline

 

FYI - the Takeda is a SRI, not a CAI.

 

It's actually 261.00 and dyno'd by Takeda 14hp/14tq. You can ge silver piping or do black shrink wrap so it looks stock.

 

I just thought I'd put in a little information I observed with a kiwi plx wireless obd 2 device and the rev app on my iPad that with a tacked sri, the intake temperature difference was only 6degrees higher than outside ambient temperature was. This was when the car was in motion though, hut still, it proves that you don't need a cold air intake over the short air intake.

 

only reason i like CAI over the SRI--

The intake manifold on the car was designed to pull the air from the oem air box, which the air has a fairly long way to travel... you dont get the same air distance with the SRI

people dont realize, the factory air box on the 4G TL is pretty advanced

I went from OEM to Takeda SRI to OEM...

The SRI definitely, DEFINITELY helped boost low end power.. however, it robbed top end power. just my

 

Well get CAI. But by top-end there should be enough air blowing the engine heat away from the engine that there should not be much difference in top-end from stock. SRI does have better throttle response because it's easier to suck the air in. CAI there is an initial "bog". Just think of a straw. It's way easier to suck air in a straw 3in long vs. tho normal length straw. But to each is own and I thing You should buy according to the amount of rain you see and id you roads are good with few pot holes that could potentially cause you car to drop in a deep pot hole that 'Could" have you hydro-lock your motor. I almost Did this to my Prelude Type SH but luckily i know what to do and took quick action and depressed the clutch as i dipped in the puddle so instead of sucking water at 4500rpm it did it at 700rpm. It would not turn over and I was heading to the airport to dead head to fly my 1st leg of a 4 day trip out of Dulles. Anyway i digress... My buddies (one a honda tech) pulled all spark plugs out, turned the car over (water splashed out all over the place), put plugs out, and the replaced with new plugs and oil change... DONE..lol. I'm saying If you live in the SE or NW area. You do NOT want to go through that foolishness..lol. If i lived in mid-west or SW, i'd def do CAI. If there is a SRI that that makes ample power to you Id do that. If the sri makes 4-5hp, then it's not worth the money and hassle. Be well guys and happy modding. It's a fun hobby when done right.

 

CT-E still claims their ice-box will be released soon... end of February

 

It doesn't give that aggressive vtec tone. You get all the gains with no change in sound. This is why I've never liked the Ice Box. Why doesn't CT-E post their dyno charts anymore on the site. You have to request them...

 

^ a lot is different since the company changed hands. if their turn-around times on new projects werent slow enough as comptech, its even slower now as CT-E

however, i've heard preliminary results on the 4G s/c is 100+ whp... i find it hard to believe those gains were made on an MP62 blower, with a 3.7L engine... on a 3.2L engine, the MP62 could barely make 50whp.

MP62 is the same blower installed on a cobalt ss.... So unless they are including an aftercooler, or running some type of aggressive tune/HBP... i'm skeptical about the gains..

oh and FYI, the Takeda SRI sounded BAD-ASS when going WOT... i miss the sound, but i like my top end power for now

 

The j37 is a different beast though as its vtec adjusts exhaust valves also. Now this wouldn't make for 50 more hp the s/c'd j32 but just think about it. J37 is s very efficient motor compared to 2nd gen J32< 3rd gen/2nd gen J35< 1st gen j37<2nd gen J37

 

i suppose... but 100whp?? ill wait until official communication is released lol