Rear Deck Subwoofer
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Rear Deck Subwoofer
Over the past couple of months I've had problems with my rear deck subwoofer. Told the dealership about it, they told me the subwoofer was blown and it would cost $500+ for parts and labor. I know what a blown speaker sounds like, it is not blown. So I decided to take out the upper trunk lining where the subwoofer is and check out the problem. The frame where one of the subwoofer screws is located is cracked. Just the problem, metal on metal vibrating... I'm at 69K miles on my 2010 TL, so I'm out of warranty. Any suggestions? Or does anyone think the dealer will fix this problem.
#2
Looks like the metal plate that holds the sub is welded into the rear deck. I doubt the dealer would fix that for less than $500...
I can think of a cheap DIY if you have some sheet plastic and power tools:
- Cut a sheet of plastic (3/8" or 1/2" seems like it would work) in a triangle like this:
- Drill a big hole in the plastic where the screw for the sub lines up and drill very small pilot holes through the plastic into the metal where you see the red circles marked.
- counter-bore or counter-sink the plastic holes and get some self-tapping screws to attach the plastic to the metal sub-frame.
The idea is that the plastic will relieve the stress on the cracked metal, as well as absorb the vibration from the subwoofer.
Or if you want to upgrade, take the factory sub out and buy and aftermarket sub and an amp with speaker-level inputs.
I can think of a cheap DIY if you have some sheet plastic and power tools:
- Cut a sheet of plastic (3/8" or 1/2" seems like it would work) in a triangle like this:
- Drill a big hole in the plastic where the screw for the sub lines up and drill very small pilot holes through the plastic into the metal where you see the red circles marked.
- counter-bore or counter-sink the plastic holes and get some self-tapping screws to attach the plastic to the metal sub-frame.
The idea is that the plastic will relieve the stress on the cracked metal, as well as absorb the vibration from the subwoofer.
Or if you want to upgrade, take the factory sub out and buy and aftermarket sub and an amp with speaker-level inputs.
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imrinfam0uz (07-01-2015)
#3
Intermediate
There is an Acura TSB for this exact issue... TSB #13-007, published March 6, 2013. Try mentioning it to the dealer... I would think they'd be willing to work with you or try to get the repair covered by Acura since it's a known issue.
#5
6G TLX-S
Is there a link to that TSB that we can look at ?
#6
Intermediate
At some point I was able to access it though the link in this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...s-tsbs-701767/
(scroll down to 2013 TSBs towards the bottom of post #1)
I can't seem to get it to open now, but I saved the PDF of it at the time so if anyone needs it, PM me your email address and I'll send it over.
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...s-tsbs-701767/
(scroll down to 2013 TSBs towards the bottom of post #1)
I can't seem to get it to open now, but I saved the PDF of it at the time so if anyone needs it, PM me your email address and I'll send it over.
#7
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Looks like the metal plate that holds the sub is welded into the rear deck. I doubt the dealer would fix that for less than $500...
I can think of a cheap DIY if you have some sheet plastic and power tools:
- Cut a sheet of plastic (3/8" or 1/2" seems like it would work) in a triangle like this:
- Drill a big hole in the plastic where the screw for the sub lines up and drill very small pilot holes through the plastic into the metal where you see the red circles marked.
- counter-bore or counter-sink the plastic holes and get some self-tapping screws to attach the plastic to the metal sub-frame.
The idea is that the plastic will relieve the stress on the cracked metal, as well as absorb the vibration from the subwoofer.
Or if you want to upgrade, take the factory sub out and buy and aftermarket sub and an amp with speaker-level inputs.
I can think of a cheap DIY if you have some sheet plastic and power tools:
- Cut a sheet of plastic (3/8" or 1/2" seems like it would work) in a triangle like this:
- Drill a big hole in the plastic where the screw for the sub lines up and drill very small pilot holes through the plastic into the metal where you see the red circles marked.
- counter-bore or counter-sink the plastic holes and get some self-tapping screws to attach the plastic to the metal sub-frame.
The idea is that the plastic will relieve the stress on the cracked metal, as well as absorb the vibration from the subwoofer.
Or if you want to upgrade, take the factory sub out and buy and aftermarket sub and an amp with speaker-level inputs.
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#8
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Not too sure, I bought the car CPO and I noticed a slight slight rattle while playing music but only thought the person before me might've been bumping their music just as loud. But then it got real bad, so I took out the lining to figure out the rattle and seen the crack. Took it to the dealer yesterday and the service guy told me to take my car to a bodyshop and have them weld it back together.
#11
6G TLX-S
no.
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cmorrow285 (07-27-2015)
#16
Racer
#17
Intermediate
#18
6G TLX-S
Whether there exists a service bulletin or not, the dealership is entitled to repair all "non-wear-and-tear" related problems if the vehicle is still covered under the 4-yr comprehensive factory warranty.
#19
I had this issue and they took apart the entire trunk and sprayed foam everywhere (so they say). But how I demonstrated that it was the sub just rattling, was I turned the sub up really high, put the speakers only in the rear, and put on a high bass song. Everytime it rattled, if you put your hand on the middle of the sub cover, it would stop.
#20
Cruisin'
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Mile High City
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I would dynamat it myself ,its the cheapest fix and will make it sound better than it did before anyway. you can use Liquid nails for metal at the seam of the crack before applying dynamat. I use to install for Soundtrack for about 15 years.
#21
Not too sure, I bought the car CPO and I noticed a slight slight rattle while playing music but only thought the person before me might've been bumping their music just as loud. But then it got real bad, so I took out the lining to figure out the rattle and seen the crack. Took it to the dealer yesterday and the service guy told me to take my car to a bodyshop and have them weld it back together.
#22
just check yourself. pull the cover down thru the trunk and inspect it. i think its only on pre 2013 tls. the metal on the rear shelf is too thin and eventually cracks due to sub woofer vibration around the bolts. ive repaired about 3 tl's under warranty for this. but as stated above acura will only cover it under the service bulletin if the vehicle is still under warranty. if you call acura yourself and sorta complain then alot of the times the customer gets assistance from acura or will "goodwill" the repair.
The repair consists of cutting out the whole subwoofer area using a template and drilling new holes for a supplied thicker mounting plate for the sub woofer.
The repair consists of cutting out the whole subwoofer area using a template and drilling new holes for a supplied thicker mounting plate for the sub woofer.
#23
funny, I just posted about this in the other rattle thread. But yea Acura kept trying to isolate mine as well but the problem was still coming back - finally they sent mine to a body shop and they welded the shit out of all those cracking points and where it screws down and then the problem finally has not came back and its been over 3 years now
#25
I know this is off subject but Im looking for a 12" sub enclosure for my 2010 TL-SH. Any suggestions on who/where I can find one? If I have to build one I will but would rather not take the time to do so. Thanks in advance!!
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