Has anyone on here ever had there valves adjusted on there 4th gen?

i got a 2012 with a 3.5 at 210k miles and it’s had a general low sound tick from upper end for about 30k miles. Generally just doesn’t sound as smooth as I would expect. Seems like the older J series like the 3.5 in the 04-06 MDX generally always seems smooth. My bud has one with 312k miles and never had them adjusted but his sounds very smooth all though the rpm range

I’m just worried about taking it to a shop and then not doing the work. I spoke to one shop that said it’s not really usual for them to need adjusting and that’s what worried me

 

intake loosen over time and exhaust tighten and can cause noise with the J-series. I'd honestly have it done the next time you do timing belt/water pump service and also replace spark plug tube seals too. Shouldn't be more than 2 hours labor + new gaskets.

 

I adjusted mine at about 150K and found that most of them were a bit loose. Including exhaust which was kind of odd. In my 2006 J32 it was the typical intake/loose and exhaust/tight. Not too loose mind you, only 0.001" - 0.002". The ticking lightened up a bit, since loose valves are usually the case of ticking due to the rocker arm and valve having too much gap.

I also seemed to notice a bit more oomph in engine response. I wasn't expecting it so I don't think it was placebo. It would make a little sense considering loose valves would result in less flow past the valves. Although I don't see how 0.001" - 0.002" would make a difference. Either way, quieted down the engine a bit and the power increase (real or just perceived) was a plus.

The job can get pretty spendy due to the time it takes. With four valves per cylinder, there are 24 valves to adjust. The procedure of measuring and adjusting multiple times isn't a quick process. And some of the valves are a pain to access. And of course, you have to take off the intake manifold, valve covers, put a new valve cover gasket on, turn the crankshaft to get the valves at just the perfect location, etc. etc. So unless you really feel it's worth it, or you're not going to attempt to do it yourself, I'd probably pass. The biggest risk is burnt valves if they're significantly too tight. The contact between the cylinder head and valve helps cool the valve head. Also, if the valve isn't completely closed, combustion gasses can be forced out, which are much hotter than the exhaust gas that normally exits the valve. But I have literally never head of any Honda V6 having burnt valves. I'm sure it's happened but they'd have to be really out of lash on the tight end to be too far open to really cause problems.

And yeah, the ability of a shop to mask a valve adjustment job is really high. First, unless they're way out, engine performance isn't likely to change. And second, they could simply replace the 0W-20 oil with some 5W-30 which would quiet them down enough, due to the higher viscosity oil which would provide a thicker pad between the rocker arm and valve surface. If you have a shop do the job, ask to watch, just because you're curious.

 

I actually just schedule the service to be done at my Acura dealer since I don’t really have any independent Honda shops around me. The one I have basically said he would rather not do it. I understand it’s tedious work but I would prefer it done. The Acura dealer said $480 out the door and I get a loaner for the day.

I have actually heard of one case of a 2001 Honda Accord v6 burn a valve. Not sure if it was as simple of neglect or not

 

Agreed. Valve adjustments are prime candidates for a "wall job" (park the car over by the wall, clean the valve covers, and say the job's done). Unless the valves were particularly noisy, how would you know if the job wasn't done? Buyer beware.

 

Hi dregsfan,

does it sound like this ?

 

That doesn't sound like noisy valves to me, but others here are more qualified that I am to help you with figuring out what that odd noise may be.

 

my car actually sounds like that when its idling. '09 SH.

 

did you have it inspect? I brought it to my honda dealer, a guy had a quick look to my car and after 10 minutes, he said everything is normal to him and insisted to book an appointment to have my car check with a quote around $140.

 

That's a bit noisier than mine but not by much. Compared to my '09 pilot, that's sewing machine quiet. That's a different animal though. VCM kills those engines. Thank goodness the TL doesn't have it.....

 

My valve gasket been leaking so decided to do the adjustment too. My question is: example - if I started on cylinder 2 would I crank it to the cylinder which I assume would be 3? Or do I crank it until it reads cylinder 5 shows up and work on 5?

im getting conflicting info. YouTube vids tell ya to crank it to next cylinder order 1,2,3,4,5,6 but the Honda book reads 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6.

Appreciate the help…

 

Cylinders are numbered according to the location from the crankshaft, and not along the path of rotation of the engine, Honda wrote everything correctly.

 

that just confused me even more now. Maybe I’m wording it wrong. Example: if I adjust the valves on cylinder 4 first then do I turn crank pulley to cylinder 2 bc of firing order or do I turn it to cylinder 5?

 

Use Honda's instructions.

The actual order you adjust in does not matter. Honda's instructions are set up so that you do the least amount of turning of the crank pulley.

Meaning you do cylinder x first.
then you turn the crank to the next cylinder's compression TDC position

The valves can only be adjusted when the cam lobes are both "dead". Right? And that only happens on the compression stroke.

If you go out of Honda's order...you'll end up turning the crank more times than necessary. Just more work.

Get the FSM.
Follow along.
Do not become confused.

Additional tip....Never ever ever turn the crank counter clockwise.

 

Now that makes sense. Turning it to the next number at TDC. Thank you.

 

You're welcome!
Enjoy.