Hey guys, I messed up and my timing belt lower cover gasket fell into my timing belt, and jammed up when i tried to start it, timing jumped and I believe I may have bent my valves, what's the 1st step to know exactly the extent of damage, and any recommendations on repair kits? Thanks in advance.

 

To make a correct defect detection, the most reliable way is to insert a borescope with a side camera, turn the camshaft and watch how the valves close.
For this job you will need all bent valves, head gaskets, coolant pipe o-rings and valve cover gaskets.
This video shows an example of how an engine can work normally and create the correct compression with bent valves. Misfires only appeared at idle and on a hot engine.

 

I also forgot, if you are not going to reuse the antifreeze, you will need 1-1.5 gallons of Aisin antifreeze, Maroon - Very FIne Scotchbrite, Valve Lapping Tool, Permatex 80036 Valve Grinding Compound and Permatex 82194 Ultra Gray Rigid High-Torque RTV.

 

You might be able to source the heads and drop it in, you'll be removing them anyway.

 

parts for my cars aren’t available here and shipping is outrageous usually costs more than the parts

 

How did the gasket get in the way - was the lower cover not bolted down?

The bigger lesson from this t-belt change is the importance of cranking the engine a couple of full couple cycles by hand before engaging the no forgiving starter.

How many teeth are you now off? - I don't know the interface tolerance of this engine but other mfg engines can tolerate 1 tooth off, but will throw a code. If it jumped a tooth, I would reset the belt correctly and rotate by hand.

I have done 8 timing belts in my lifetime, so I am by no means an expert. But one thing I like to do is mark the belt and the pulleys at TDC as well as reference on the head and block. This way I can visually confirm any issues if they arise.

 

The gasket fell as i was reinstalling the cover, it's my fault for not double checking, also it was dark.The bottom jumped about 3 or 4 teeth, i reset the timing but i'm not getting compression for the engine to turn over, I bought a borescope to look at valves but i couldn't get it through the spark plug socket, im going to take the intake manifold apart and try to look at valves, however, I already ordered new valves, seats and gasket kit, and i will be pulling the heads off soon.

 

That is such a bummer. Given these are aluminum heads I would make sure you have them decked before you put the new valves in. Also, make sure you look closely at the top of the piston to ensure it is not damaged. Good luck, will be looking forward to updates as you do your top end.

 

I push these cars every week after hours and do this job, so if the engine was not overheated, then before installation it is enough to clean the head with red scotchbrite. In almost all engines with which I work the valves leave marks on the pistons, but this does not affect anything at all.
Make sure you have such a tool.

 

Im only removing the heads, the machine shop is going to take care of valves.

 

I set the timing to top dead center and I looked at valves with borescope through the intake, some valves were partially open and some looked that they were almost closed, but it’s really hard to tell, but I’m assuming all valves should be closed correct?

 

If the valves are slightly open, then look with a camera and at the same time turn the shaft with a 17mm wrench and they should close, if they don’t close, then they are bent.

 

I tried uploading video but I got the heads off and it doesn’t show any signs of valves hitting pistons. Yet the valves won’t seal

 

This is because the valves of the Honda are made of rice paper and bend at the slightest touch of the pistons. On the other hand, this is good because the valves do not break off and do not break the pistons with cylinders, like for example in GM.

 

I guess I’ll be using my old valves to make dinner since they are made of rice paper 😂

 

🤣🤣🤣

 

I bought 2013 TL with 3.7 with jumped timing 3 weeks ago, timing was off by 160 degrees and 180 on cams , i re timed, put new tensioner and she started no problem. The guy even drove it with jumped timing and was reving it hard

 

What kind of driving are we talking about? With these phases, it wouldn't even start.

 

he claimed he drove it up to 80km/h but it was misfiring hard and had engine performance issues.
Failed tensioner sounded like a rod knocking.
when I picked it up I drove it down the street and onto the trailer ,as well off it and into the garage, then checked timing and with cylinder 1 in tdc and crank at the mark the front cam timing was off by almost 180 degrees, and rear by 160.
I was surprised myself it ran, it had random misfire on 1 2 3. Then i retimed and put new tensioner in first , she fired right up with no more codes, however that's when i started hearing ticking from the rear cam, pulled both covers off and found on each one exhaust lobe was grinded and 3 vtec ones had pitting.
Now I'm looking at options what to do , there's a possibility that one guy can fix them, they do weld up and regrinding as well as hardening , I can get new cams and two new rockers on affected lobes from Japan for about 1100$ US , or get a new engine with 200k km for about 1300$ US , or get J35Z6 for about 800$ with 150k km.
I will be pulling off heads today to see the state of the valves as sticking bore cam in couldn't tell much






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Now I understand what happened.
The belt jumped two teeth on the rear head.
The front head is in the correct timing.
The guy was lucky that with such a desire to kill the engine, he still couldn’t do it.
Спецназ ты откуда?

 

Look at the front sprocket , the notch for c1 is on the bottom while crank is in tdc of cylinder 1

Ростов на Дону, а ты?