Ok gang, I'm going to put two more things (at the moment) on my 2010 TL TECH SH-AWD. It's PMM with the Ebony interior.

First is the Clearshield bra, and I got an "OK" price. At least I'm comfortable with it.

Second is Tint. I've definitely decided on a Ceramic film, and am 99.9% there on VLT % (the tint %) based on Ca. law and what I can get away with.

So, the final question comes down to shop and film:

Shop 1: They typically prefer SolarGard UP (a ceramic film) but they do carry Huper Optik (what I prefer). I've seen their work and it's first rate be it SolarGard or Huper. . It IS where I'm going for the Clearshield bra. difference in price between Solar Gard and Huper is only $50, but overall they're a bit pricy on either.

Shop 2: Comes with impeccable recommendations and reputation. They're about an hour drive away, and they use (and are Mfg. Certified with) FormulaOne ceramic film. They do nothing but tinting. so I'd have to go to Shop 1 for the clearshield anyway. Price would be a LOT less than shop 1.

Shop 3: Also reasonable in price, and impeccable reputation, they're a Huper Optic trained and authorized retail outlet. The problem is that (and I'm going to re-check this tomorrow) they said they wouldnt touch the front windows (driver and passenger side front) under ANY circumstances. Ca. Law says you can put film on the front, so long as you don't go above 70% and they say that the fronts already have 70% built in. I said, how about some Crystaline 100% so I can get at least the UV and IR protection (I have a skin condition that's particularly sensitive to burning). He repeated that he never touches the front windows.

I'm still leaning to Shop 1. They're close, and they do good work whether it's the Solarguard UP or the Huper Optik. They're the place where the sales department at my Dealer recommends. But they aren't certified on the Huper... just the Solargard. I like the idea of Shop 2, but I don't know how the Formula One Ceramic performs in real life. Finally, the fact that Shop 3 is a certified Huper installer holds a lot of weight.

AArrgghh.

Oh, and if I get the clearshield installed at Shop one... they'll do the headlights and fogs as well. What does that mean when/if I do a JnC or other mod to the HIDs and/or fogs?

thanks much!
D.

 

are you in NoCal or SoCal?

 

NorCal... Silicon Valley specifically.

 

I'm in the SoCal so I can't be of much help...plus, we're not suppose to like each other right?

All kidding aside, it seems like you've already decided on shop 1 and Huper. It was my understanding that, to be a Huper dealer, you had to be certified. However, certified or not, their work will speak for itself. If they've been around for a while and have a good reputation, I'd go for it. The going rate in SoCal for dual-layer Huper is $500.

Did shop 3 outright refuse to tint the fronts or just advise you not to?

 

Which shop in the Bay Area?

 

Only if you're a fan of the Ducking Fodgers. You know... one of those people who purport to be Baseball fans but can't seem to show up before the 3rd inning and leave in the 7th.

Yeah... I'd pretty much decided on the Huper, but I could still be convinced to the FormulaOne or the SolarGard UP.

I know that Shop 3 told me when I first called that they don't do front windows, but now I'm questioning myself. I went back to their website and all of the photos of their work had the front windows done, and some the windshield. I talked to them again, and while they warned me that it was "against state law to have more than 70% on the front windows, we do it all the time". I also quizzed them a bit more about their clear paint shield (bra) and they use the 3M product that gets raves everywhere. Shop 1 uses a SolarGard produced product, and the 3M has a little bit more of an orange peel effect on some cars, but it comes with the solid reputation.

Any thoughts on that one??

And BTW: How well does a clear bra hold up to a quality brushless car wash followed up by a hand detailing? I have a bum arm and unless I can hire one of my Nieces to wash my car, it's not getting hand done.

D.

 

Shop #1: Mr. Tint in San Jose (I've watched them work and seen several cars).
Shop #2: Rocky Mountain Windowtint in Livermore
Shop #3: AutoMall Tint Specialists in Fremont.

you know any of them?

D.

 

From what I know the 3m does not make a roll large enough to do a full hood. If you are doing a full hood they may splice it to cover the complete hood, otherwise it doesn't matter. But you may want to ask your installer regarding that. The top two clear bra are Venture Shield and 3m.

 

I'm probably get my friend's Mazda 3 tinted at Rocky Mountain this Saturday. He quoted me $399 to do all door windows + rear windshield with FormulaOne Pinnacle Ceramic tint.

The AutoMall tint guy is fine with doing the front windows. I just talked to him yesterday. However, after talking to him, I have a feeling that Huper Optik is not a good choice due to difficult installation and very poor warranty service.

For paint protection film, I highly recommend Premier in Fremont. They are the best in the area when it comes to paint protection film. They use the ventureshield product and their pre-cut kits are usually about $700.

 

I really like 3M CS (Carbon Stable) as a highly price and performance competitive product to Huper Optik; 3M CS will go down to 5% VLT whereas the darkest HO is 30% VLT, I think. Their IR rejection properties are on par (5% 3M CS vs 30% HO), IIRC.

Be careful on the dual layer - no tint manufacturer will warranty tint on top of tint.

I did not have a good experience with 3M Crystalline - I found it to be less than optically clear and unacceptable for looking through 100% of the time (windshield). On top of that, it was pricey and it had some strange lines of refraction about 6 inches from the bottom of the windshield.

Also keep in mind that if you have to replace the windshield your tint money goes into the trash along with the old glass. I suggest a cheaper alternative for the windshield that's optically clear (SunTek, etc.) for this reason.

 

If I implied tint-on-tint, I didn't mean too. Maybe where we got that is that the front windows on a TL, like most cars, are nominally at 70% in the manufacturing.

I won't be doing the windshield at all... only reason I'd do that is if I lived in Arizona or the like. 5% is WAY TOO DARK for me, I only want to go down to about 30% on the rear and back windows, 50% on the front.

Soda... please let me know how it goes, and if you can send me some pictures I'd appreciate it.

I still haven't heard if a quality non-hand carwashing is a bad thing. I'm worried that wax or something will build up along the edge and make it more visible?

Thanks for all the help!!
D.

 

As far as I know, FormulaOne tint is made by LLumar. I just had mine done here in SoCal with the LLumar Air Blue front, back and rear windows. It has 43% heat rejection and 78% Visible Light Transmission. It is almost not having tint at all but keeps your car cool inside.

 

I have a 12pm appointment on Saturday. I'll keep you posted. It's a 2010 Mazda 3 though, not a TL. It will be getting 50% on the front side windows and 35% on the rear windows and rear windshield.

 

Soda,

It shouldn't matter if it's a Mazda 3 or a TL... a quality tint job is a quality tint job.
I appreciate getting some feedback on the FormulaOne and of Rocky Mtn. as well.

 

Hey, just got it done today. Matt's facility is clean and well-organized, and his work is top-notch. I would highly recommend him.

After much discussion, we decided to go with the new Llumar Air Blue 80 on the front windows and FormulaOne Pinnacle Ceramic 35% on the back windows. This was because I measured the front windows and they already have a ~70% factory tint. Considering the aggressive law enforcement lately and the vehicle's dark exterior color and black interior, using an 80% film on the front windows will produce a near 50% appearance.

Here are the pictures:



35% rear, Llumar Air Blue in the front.



Close-up view of side-by-side



Rear Window at 35%

Also, these pictures were taken in STRONG sunlight. So in lighter sunlight or on an overcast day, the windows will appear much darker. And on the way home, my friend said that the heat reduction is substantial in comparison to the factory tint-- even on the front windows.