G-007: How-To: Install 1157 Switchbacks on a 4th Gen TL '09-'11
#41
Burning Brakes
I attempted this yesterday and blew 2 fuses. One for the hazard, the other for the small exterior lights. So I gave up and called it a day. I'll try it again when I'm feeling lucky.
Blaze9, you got right wires. You're halfway there at least. You just need to get the crimping/splicing part down. The resister wires has to make enough contact with the splicer. You could try to shave off a little of the resistor wires as others have mentioned. Or you could buy what pimpin-tl used on his post. Looks like an 18-14 gauge wire tap.
Blaze9, you got right wires. You're halfway there at least. You just need to get the crimping/splicing part down. The resister wires has to make enough contact with the splicer. You could try to shave off a little of the resistor wires as others have mentioned. Or you could buy what pimpin-tl used on his post. Looks like an 18-14 gauge wire tap.
The following users liked this post:
Blaze9 (04-08-2013)
#42
I attempted this yesterday and blew 2 fuses. One for the hazard, the other for the small exterior lights. So I gave up and called it a day. I'll try it again when I'm feeling lucky.
Blaze9, you got right wires. You're halfway there at least. You just need to get the crimping/splicing part down. The resister wires has to make enough contact with the splicer. You could try to shave off a little of the resistor wires as others have mentioned. Or you could buy what pimpin-tl used on his post. Looks like an 18-14 gauge wire tap.
Blaze9, you got right wires. You're halfway there at least. You just need to get the crimping/splicing part down. The resister wires has to make enough contact with the splicer. You could try to shave off a little of the resistor wires as others have mentioned. Or you could buy what pimpin-tl used on his post. Looks like an 18-14 gauge wire tap.
http://www.backinblackgp.com/Tap_And_Splice.htm
The following users liked this post:
Blaze9 (04-08-2013)
#43
I feel like I'm gonna blow a fuse with all this hyperflashing. I can't work on the car until Wednesday. SoL huh...
Hogan, I'm gonna try that way. I -hate- those splicers. I already stripped a good bit off of the resistor's insulation. Didn't get me anywhere, so here's to doing it your way.
Hogan, I'm gonna try that way. I -hate- those splicers. I already stripped a good bit off of the resistor's insulation. Didn't get me anywhere, so here's to doing it your way.
#44
My Acura is my Constant.
Hey I was just wondering if anyone new where to get the mod on the front next to the blinkers. I mean the black grill piece that some have. I can't find it anywhere.
The following users liked this post:
Wr00m (08-20-2014)
#45
#47
Burning Brakes
#48
Safety Car
The How-To says exactly what you need to do and it hasn't changed on a 2012.
#49
Racer
thanks for the good write up big mo. loving the switchbacks but instead of crimping I just soldered the resistors in for a better connection then taped the piss out of them
The following users liked this post:
Big mo (09-22-2013)
#50
So I installed everything correctly but the issue I'm facing is that one side or sometimes both after a few miles of driving. If I turn the light off then back on, both will come back on like normal. What can this be? I'm so stressed! Been messing with this light issue for over 2 days. And yes I have the 6ohm50watt resistors and bought the bulb from DDM Tuning. Any feedback would be great!
#51
great tutorial, too bad it doesnt work for 2013 TLs =\ I followed this tutorial and installed my switchbacks with the load resistors and couldnt get them to work. The blinkers would not work, it kept blowing fuses in the process, the hazards, and small exteriors. Everything was wired correctly and the bulbs were fine. But they just wouldnt switch to amber, all i got was white constant and only one side worked as a blinker -___-
i ended up having to put back in my stock bulbs...but ill try it again another day see if i could get them to work properly
i ended up having to put back in my stock bulbs...but ill try it again another day see if i could get them to work properly
#52
Cruisin'
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oakland Country
Age: 38
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So when the turn signals are actually on and blinking, does it alternate with the white parking light or no light?
Meaning what is the light output when turn signals are on;
Amber, White, Amber, White...
or
Amber, None, Amber, None...
Meaning what is the light output when turn signals are on;
Amber, White, Amber, White...
or
Amber, None, Amber, None...
#53
Racer
#57
So I installed everything correctly but the issue I'm facing is that one side or sometimes both after a few miles of driving. If I turn the light off then back on, both will come back on like normal. What can this be? I'm so stressed! Been messing with this light issue for over 2 days. And yes I have the 6ohm50watt resistors and bought the bulb from DDM Tuning. Any feedback would be great!
Anyone else having this problem?
#58
Flasher Relay
Hi All
Have anyone installed Flasher Relay on their TL? if yes would you mind sharing the part? I would like to install leds both read and front but really don't want to use resistors
Have anyone installed Flasher Relay on their TL? if yes would you mind sharing the part? I would like to install leds both read and front but really don't want to use resistors
#59
I'm having trouble with the passenger side and need to fix it. For the life of me, I cannot get the bolt to loosen. I can get it to move a little, but it won't come loose. Any ideas?
#62
Racer
probably just corroded up, hose the bolt down with a good lube and give it some time to penetrate and just keep turning back and forth. It should come loose depending on how bad it's bunged up. If worse comes to worse you will have to purchase new hardware
#63
I've tried that and I can't get enough leverage to even budge it. I think I'm going to have to remove the splash shield and see if that gives me more room.
#64
what is the consensus on what is the best LED bulb to get for the 09-11 models?
I want to get these for my 09.... I've seen various threads with differnet bulbs.. some are more greenish.. some more blue... iw ant it to match the headlights as much as possible..
recommendations??
form reading other threads..sounds like it's better to leave the reverse lights alone?
I want to get these for my 09.... I've seen various threads with differnet bulbs.. some are more greenish.. some more blue... iw ant it to match the headlights as much as possible..
recommendations??
form reading other threads..sounds like it's better to leave the reverse lights alone?
#69
rock the block
I had no problems on my 2013. The wire colours were different then those listed in this guide (at least on my Drivers side), so I just used the order of the wires inside the plug and made sure they were the same on both sides. Piece of cake
Oh, and make sure you grab a 3457 bulb. This guide has a few different bulb types suggested, but 3457 is for 12+
Oh, and make sure you grab a 3457 bulb. This guide has a few different bulb types suggested, but 3457 is for 12+
#71
10th Gear
I had no problems on my 2013. The wire colours were different then those listed in this guide (at least on my Drivers side), so I just used the order of the wires inside the plug and made sure they were the same on both sides. Piece of cake
Oh, and make sure you grab a 3457 bulb. This guide has a few different bulb types suggested, but 3457 is for 12+
Oh, and make sure you grab a 3457 bulb. This guide has a few different bulb types suggested, but 3457 is for 12+
So to sum it up, on 2012-2014 models:
Bulb size: 3457 (Which pretty much 3157 right?) CK Base
Driver's side: Blue wire and Black wire
Passenger's side: Blueish-Green and Black wire
Looking forward to get it done on the weekend. Might even seal the quick splice terminals with some silicone once I've confirmed that it works.
I'll try to provide with some inside pictures if I end up getting it to work since I cant seem to find working ones in the forums.
#72
Hey guys, just wanted to give some insight on this problem because you guys all sounded like me a bit over a year ago. The dreaded tc issue on the 4th gen.
i have a 2012 awd advance. I bought it in early Feb 2014. I had a 2006 prior to the 4th gen, I also owned a 1991 integra rs, 1993 vigor gs and 1995 legend lls, I knew when something doesn't feel right on an Acura. At first the car felt great. I bought my 2012 with 18000km on it. When I got to around 20000, I started feeling jerking in the shift (1-2,2-3). Then the shuddering came. Going up hill it felt like it was popping out of gears and engaging randomly(gear hunting). It got to the point that I was scared to drive it because I thought the tranny was going to explode. (Drove 2 weeks with it). I made an appointment at Acura of north Toronto. They inspected the car and wasn't able to replicate it. After another week of trying to get them to come and drive in the vehicle so I can replicate it the service manager finally came out with me. "Voila" he felt it and agreed it's not right. He explained that a software update was available for my vehicle and a tranny fluid change should fix the issue. They had the car for 3 hours and told me my car was ready. I get into my car and start driving home. It felt maybe slightly better but still all converter issues remained. I was furious. Went back to the dealer for them to tell me it's the nature of the car and it doesn't have anything wrong with the torcque converter. Thank god I live in Toronto. There is about 8 Acura dealers within 15km of me. So I decided to go to Acura of maple which is the farthest one away from me and usually aren't busy. Drove out with one of they're mechanics and he saw the issues right away. He told me that it was easily fixed with an update and tranny fluid chance. I explained how I already did this service and it's still drives terribly. He told me it's free, and in order to diagnose if I need a new torque converter I would have to do it. So again my car was there for about 4 hours. The tech told me it was ready. He then explained to me that there was no software update done on my car and Acura of north Toronto lied to me. I was shocked. He also told me he couldn't tell if the tranny fluid was actually done because it was pretty dark when he drained it. I was outraged but still didn't drive my car to see if it was fixed. So I thanked him and went for a ride. Well it was fixed. Shuddering gone, shift all smooth again. No slipping uphill or gear hunting. I just wanted to add that the tech told me the CPU should be reflashed or reset after the update. Sometimes if it's not reflashed. The car relearns the bad probgraming maps again. So if you guys have done the update. Make sure the car has been reset/reflashed afterwords. It's been 40000km later. And the car still drives great. No hesitation or anything. The gas mileage gets shot after the update though. It consumes a lot more gas. But I am happy. I'm at 68000km. And car runs great. For those looking for abit more. I also changed 3ltrs of tranny fluid to mobil one which made my shifts feel even better. Mobile one is abit thicker than our dw1 but mixed together creates great lube for these cars. I now do 1lt mobil 1 and 2ltrs dw1 every drain and refill and it seems to be the perfect blend.
i have a 2012 awd advance. I bought it in early Feb 2014. I had a 2006 prior to the 4th gen, I also owned a 1991 integra rs, 1993 vigor gs and 1995 legend lls, I knew when something doesn't feel right on an Acura. At first the car felt great. I bought my 2012 with 18000km on it. When I got to around 20000, I started feeling jerking in the shift (1-2,2-3). Then the shuddering came. Going up hill it felt like it was popping out of gears and engaging randomly(gear hunting). It got to the point that I was scared to drive it because I thought the tranny was going to explode. (Drove 2 weeks with it). I made an appointment at Acura of north Toronto. They inspected the car and wasn't able to replicate it. After another week of trying to get them to come and drive in the vehicle so I can replicate it the service manager finally came out with me. "Voila" he felt it and agreed it's not right. He explained that a software update was available for my vehicle and a tranny fluid change should fix the issue. They had the car for 3 hours and told me my car was ready. I get into my car and start driving home. It felt maybe slightly better but still all converter issues remained. I was furious. Went back to the dealer for them to tell me it's the nature of the car and it doesn't have anything wrong with the torcque converter. Thank god I live in Toronto. There is about 8 Acura dealers within 15km of me. So I decided to go to Acura of maple which is the farthest one away from me and usually aren't busy. Drove out with one of they're mechanics and he saw the issues right away. He told me that it was easily fixed with an update and tranny fluid chance. I explained how I already did this service and it's still drives terribly. He told me it's free, and in order to diagnose if I need a new torque converter I would have to do it. So again my car was there for about 4 hours. The tech told me it was ready. He then explained to me that there was no software update done on my car and Acura of north Toronto lied to me. I was shocked. He also told me he couldn't tell if the tranny fluid was actually done because it was pretty dark when he drained it. I was outraged but still didn't drive my car to see if it was fixed. So I thanked him and went for a ride. Well it was fixed. Shuddering gone, shift all smooth again. No slipping uphill or gear hunting. I just wanted to add that the tech told me the CPU should be reflashed or reset after the update. Sometimes if it's not reflashed. The car relearns the bad probgraming maps again. So if you guys have done the update. Make sure the car has been reset/reflashed afterwords. It's been 40000km later. And the car still drives great. No hesitation or anything. The gas mileage gets shot after the update though. It consumes a lot more gas. But I am happy. I'm at 68000km. And car runs great. For those looking for abit more. I also changed 3ltrs of tranny fluid to mobil one which made my shifts feel even better. Mobile one is abit thicker than our dw1 but mixed together creates great lube for these cars. I now do 1lt mobil 1 and 2ltrs dw1 every drain and refill and it seems to be the perfect blend.
#73
The inconvenient truth
I know this is an older thread but when you search "Acura tl switchbacks install" in Google this is the first thing to come up and I wanted to say a few things that may be helpful in the future while its fresh in my head. I did this in a 2012 Canadian SH-AWD. I had to install these by driving the front onto ramps and going from underneath. The driver side could have been done from the wheel well but the passenger side could not. On the passenger side there is a large reservoir in the way and I'm assuming its washer fluid for the headlight cleaners.
To simplify the turn signals have 3 wires running to them. The ground, turn signal and parking light. You connect the resisters to the ground and turn signal. My wires were as follows
Driver side;
Black = ground
Red = parking
Blue = turn
Passenger side;
Black = ground
White = parking
Green = turn signal
I used a wire tester to figure out which is which. The install went smoothly and had no problems just make sure you get a good connection.
To simplify the turn signals have 3 wires running to them. The ground, turn signal and parking light. You connect the resisters to the ground and turn signal. My wires were as follows
Driver side;
Black = ground
Red = parking
Blue = turn
Passenger side;
Black = ground
White = parking
Green = turn signal
I used a wire tester to figure out which is which. The install went smoothly and had no problems just make sure you get a good connection.
Last edited by dopeboy1; 06-19-2017 at 12:10 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
orkoTL
4G TL Problems & Fixes
107
09-28-2017 09:12 AM
Skirmich
2G TL (1999-2003)
37
09-15-2015 06:41 PM
DiamondJoeQuimby
Car Parts for Sale
1
09-10-2015 11:40 AM