Big mo

How To install 1157 Switchbacks into your 4th gen 2009+ Acura TL factory front turn signal lights.



Tools Required:

1 - Rachet
1 - 10mm socket
1 - small extension
1 - Snips/pliers

Parts Required:

1 - 1 pair Bi-color 1157 Switchback LEDs
1 - 1 pair 50W 6Ohm load resistors
1 - min pack of qty 4: 18-14 gauge weatherproof wire quick splice terminal
1 - electrical tape

Links to products used on this mod.

(I have no affiliation to iJDMTOY nor am I getting any compensation for using their products. However I have had no problems with their products, they were very helpful when I encountered problems and they were quick to response back.)

Switchbacks: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/BAY14d-2357...157_sku_3e.htm

Decoder: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/50W-Load-Re...d_resistor.htm

Quick splice terminal: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=88098_0_0_

Proper wires to splice to decoder wires:

Driver Side: Black wire with grey stripes. Blue wire with grey stripes.
Passenger side: Black wire with grey stripes. Green wire with grey stripes.

Procedure:


1) It is not necessary to lift car, all bolts are easily accessible from the front end under neath the car as seen in these pictures of the driver side and passenger side below. Area you will be working on is the space between the front bumper and the splash guard.

Driver Side

Passenger side



2) Same pic of the driver side area from above with a close up on the 1 bolt needed to be removed using a 10mm socket and extension. After removing the one bolt you can easily push the enclosure out from that same side.



Below are pictures of the driver side turn signal enclosure. You can see how one side uses a tab to hook into a slot while the other is the were the single bolt removed earlier is attached thru.



3) Disconnect the bulb socket from the signal enclosure by turning it counter clockwise. Remove existing factory glass bulb. You can now pull the wiring harness far enough out to make spicing the wires easier. You will need to remove some the the factory electrical taping and black harness tubing in order to expose enough wire.

4) Once you have exposed enough wire (passenger side picture) you will need to use 1 waterproof quick splice terminal to connect one end of the decoder wire to the black and grey striped wire. (NOTE: When splicing wires make certain you have aligned the wires properly in the terminal if not there is a danger of cutting the wires in half.) Once the wires are properly inserted you will need pliers to close/crimp the top of the splicer. Another waterproof quick splice terminal will be used to connect the other wire end of the decoder to the green and grey striped wire. Install new Bi-color LED to bulb terminal paying attention to the indents on the bottom of bulbs. They should align properly to terminal.

PASSENGER SIDE WIRES (green and grey wire with terminal still open)


5) Test: Turn your headlight switch to the Side Marker Lights mode (Xenon white color), it should work properly even without the decoder. The true test is when you activate your turn signal or emergency lights. They should flash as they always have, if you see a rapid "hyper" flashing of the bulb then the splicers were not used properly or you used the incorrect wires.

SIDE MARKER LIGHTS ONLY


AMBER COLOR WHEN TURN SIGNAL IS ACTIVATED


6) After testing is successful install bulb with terminal into the turn signal housing paying attention to line up the larger tab on the terminal with the larger tab on the enclosure. Turn terminal clockwise to reinstall. Due to the rubber seal It may be necessary to push in an twist however do not apply excessive force in the twisting motion otherwise you may damage or break the LED.

7) Reinstallation: I recommend using electrical tape around the terminals even though waterproof splicers were used. Guide the decoder back down thru opening.

SPECIAL NOTE: It is recommended by the manufacturer to install the decoder to metal due to excessive heat. I however did not, at the time I could not find a suitable location with metal to attach the decoder while still having enough slack in the wire. I have the decoder loose separated from all other wires using zip ties. It has been approximately 2 weeks with no problems. During the process of making this thread i removed both fixtures and inspected the wires. I saw no visible signs of degradation, they looked normal. However only time will tell. I also took into account how ofter I use my turn signal and emergency lights which is when the decoder would be used and I still do not feel there is a threat of overheating.

8) Repeat above steps on the driver side turn signal.

PICTURE OF DRIVER SIDE WIRES ALREADY SPLICED



FINISHED PRODUCT PICS



COLOR OF BOTH NEW TURN SIGNALS WHEN IN SIDE MARKER LIGHT MODE: XENON WHITE



A STILL PICTURE OF EMERGENCY LIGHTS ON: AMBER COLOR




PIC OF LOW BEAMS WITH SIDE MARKER LIGHTS



STILL PIC OF SIDE MARKER CONSTANT WITH TURN SIGNAL ON




EXAMPLE PICS

PICTURE OF FACTORY BULB ON PASSENGER SIDE WITH NEW 1157 LED ON DRIVER SIDE. LIGHTS IN SIDE MARKER MODE.



FYI:

Just to note, if ordering from iJDMTOY to order the Bi-color 57 LEDs and not the 60 LEDs. The Bi-color uses the same 57 leds to produce both the white and amber color outputs. The 60 LED one has 30 white and another separate 30 amber LEDs. So basically the 57 Bi-color is twice as bright as the 30 + 30 aka 60 Led ones. They are bright enough to be mistaken as Daytime Running Lights so I usually leave my light switched to side markers on to go with my Led DRLs.
Sorry if you knew that already but it's worth the extra 9 dollars if you didn't.


SPECIAL THANKS:

I would like to thank "pimpin-tl" for allowing me to basically copy his work and style for this thread. I would not have started any of these mods if it weren't for his "HOW TO GUIDES".

pimpin-tl

Nice work man. The g in your subject though can only be put there by a mod for the garage. Will look at this tomorrow so I can order the parts.

Can I get the link to your drl bulbs on the site so I can order them at the same time?

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Mo, actually a Moderator is supposed to assign numbers and post in the 4G Garage. Have you ever seen or looked at The Garage? Here is the link:

https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-2009-2014-123/4g-tl-service-department-questions-answers-check-here-first-701842/


As it turns out, there was already a G-006 in the Garage for headlights. I have changed your number to G-007 and posted this in the 4G Garage.

MoAbbas

iJDMTOY bi-color 57 switchbacks are on sale right now. marked from $46 to $34. if you use the coupon code "hotpic" during checkout, you'll get an additional 15% off.

the time for this mod is now.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/BAY14d-2357...157_sku_3e.htm

Im gonna post this on the other forum aswell, just incase ppl arnt following this one yet.

pimpin-tl

I want to order but he hasn't responded to my question on what DRL's he got!

MoAbbas

from my understanding, all LEDs should run in the 6000k color temp range. so the color shouldnt be too far off.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/9005-LED-Da...d_sku45_r2.htm

these are the ones ppl usually go with. and most likely these are the ones he has.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/ProductDeta...KU-4N&CartID=1
i know another member of acurazine has these installed, theyre on the other thread aswell. pretty much look the same throughout whichever set you get. we thought the cree led ones would help a bit with the high beam issues, but not really from my understanding.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/SearchResul...running+lights

these are the HB3 sized bulbs for 09-11 TLs. these are for DRLs/HighBeams. not sure if you 2012 is a differnt size.

pimpin-tl

Ordered!

lazAcura

I just finished this install and let me say thanks Big mo.

Also wanted to let you guys know a few things I figured out while doing this. It was my first time using a quick splice so I learned a couple things.

Also I used all the parts that were mentioned in this thread.

1. The 4 ways is NOT a good way to test your blinkers during the install. I thought mine were working perfectly until I used the actual blinkers and the passenger side hyperblinked.

2. The quick splicers are very finicky about wire placement when you push down the metal splicer. Take a flashlight and look down into the terminal before committing to the crimp.

3. Even if you are using the splicer correctly it may not go completely through the plastic on the wire. You can get around this by taking a razor blade and strip away just the top part of the wire you will be using. Don't strip the entire wire because then its too lose to be secure.

The coating on the decoder is extra thick so I recommend taking the razor blade to it.

4. Finally, someone with more knowledge can chime in on if this makes a difference or not, but my passenger side finally started working correctly after I turned it around so the wires were connected to the opposites it was prior. This is probably just a coincidence with the fact that I finally got everything situated correctly. I just wanted to throw that out there.


Hopefully these newb notes are helpful to anyone else attempting. Overall a easy mod which looks awesome.

pimpin-tl

I received mine, but didn't have time. So I am just going to do mine when I put the body kit on that I ordered.

KarKraze

IazAcura,you are correct about making a cut in the wire before using the splicers,i kept on getting the hyperflashing issue until i made that cut.Took me several tries before i figured that one out lol.

Big Mo's install thread is spot on.

bC770

Does anyone know how to remove the front turn signal/parking light assembly for a FWD 09 TL? I have the longer assembly that comes with the FWD grill, and I cant get it to pop out. I removed the bolts mentioned above in the instructions and pictures, but neither side wants to push out. Is there another bolt for the longer assemblies, or do they not come out?

Royal TL

Did anyone ever determine if the 1157's are compatible with the 2012's?

jpd985

I don't believe so. Someone else mentioned the 2012 uses a 3157/3457. This bulb should still come in this size.

pimpin-tl

They aren't. See this thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=867409&page=2

Royal TL

I had read that thread, but still wasn't sure. You mentioned that you spoke with JDM. Did they confirm that the 3457's will work with the 2012?

pimpin-tl

They did and I have them just not installed yet. I hope this weekend when I do my body kit.

jpd985

Thank you for the info. I just ordered mine.

pimpin-tl

Help! On the 9005 bulbs from ijdm, did you get one that had a different end on it? See attachment. I think they sent me the wrong bulb as it doesn't fit their harness. Also how did you wire the harness?

pimpin-tl

Confirmed. The 3147's work from iJDM fine on the 2012 Acura TL.

Here is what you need to order if you want these to work on a 2012+.

57-SMD Switchback LED bulbs 3147/3457 as iJDM were correct. Their bulbs are non-polarity. They don't care which way they go or if they are CK or SRCK configuration.

Wiring color on the 2012 is exactly the same as this How-To. I will have to wait to get my DRL leds in as I think they sent me a screwed up order on those.

Here are some pictures of them in use and a video.

Hogan9166

iTrader: (1)

When you say to cut the wires, do you mean to cut a slot in the insulation down to the bare wires, or to "thin" the insulation, so the splicers can get through it? I'm having a heck of a time making this work. Was only working on one of them and then ran out of light, so had to reinstall the amber bulbs. I'll take another stab in the morning. TIA!!!.

pimpin-tl

I didn't need to do this at all.

I used 3m wire taps like these: (two)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps

And

2 of these on each resistor end

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tent=CT2032231 (The right one)

lazAcura

Yes on the insulation. What worked for me is to cut or shave off the insulation on 1/4 of the wire. Leaving the rest of the insulation so that the entire wire is thick enough to be held firmly in place after the crimp. I only did this on a very small part of the wire... id say a 1/16" where the crimp would come down.

Hogan9166

iTrader: (1)

Were you able to find those locally? Do you think they'll be weatherproof?

Hogan9166

iTrader: (1)

Got the switch backs installed. The splicers suggested by the OP didn't cut through the turn signal wires, either so, I had to thin those as well. There was a LOT of trial and error to make it work.

I suggest testing the lights and turn signals before you close and crimp the splicer. This will save you hassle in trying to open them up again and driving a screwdriver into your hand as I almost did.

Regardless, they look great and glad I did it. Take a look. Disregard the bad iPhone photos.

pimpin-tl

Some places have them locally. I have had some in my garage for a while.

jpd985

iJDMToy is been selling adapters to eliminate the splicing. I also believe I found the turn signal relay. It is part of the passenger side fuse box that is below the fuses visible by remove the quick access cover. I circled it in red.


http://store.ijdmtoy.com/3157-LED-Hy...s-p/aa1069.htm

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/1157-LED-Hy...s-p/aa1051.htm

Big mo

What was the proper way to remove the turn signal on the FWD model?

jpd985

I have a 2012 but in the owners manual it went over how to change most bulbs even the blinkers. The write up on this thread I liked better and the great images helped too.

bC770

I had to turn the wheels all the way to one side and access the light from the wheel well. Its in the owners manual under replacing the front turn signal bulbs. It wasnt as easy as pulling it out the front, but I managed to get them installed and everything is working perfect.

DreDuo

Just finished this mod this morning on a 2011 FWD. I would like to say thanks for the post Mo it helped a lot. I did notice a couple things different. On the 2011 the driver side wires were a different color. There was no green and gray wire. I had a blue and gray. Figured out that this was the correct wire by comparing again Mo's pic and selecting the same side wire. The passenger side was as Mo explained. Also there are two screws holding the light in place not one. Other than that everything was exactly how Mo described it. Very satisfied with this Mod.

Wr00m

iTrader: (1)

Just finished the install of the switchbacks today. I took the whole bumper off, but that is only because I was installing the lip kit. The install was easy. One thing I noticed and seems like some people had issues with the t-tap not cutting through the wires. The issue with this is that the wire insulation on the resistor wires are coated with and extra layer of plastic which makes it hard to cut through it. The OEM wires don't have that and the tap cuts through the insulation just fine. For the resistor wire I just stripped a 1/4 of an inch of insulation off of the wire and it worked fine.

I bought the iJDM 57pcs bi-color bulbs but found them a bit with a tint of green. When compared to my OEM HIDs, which are 4300k, the switchback lights look closer to 4000k.

If anyone here installed other switchbacks and they look close to 4300k or even 6000k please post where you bought them as I'd like to switch mine to get a better match.

Big mo

I'd like to see a pic of the hint of green you are talking about.

Wr00m

iTrader: (1)

My car is in at the dealer for a torque converter replacement until tomorrow. I will take the picture on Thursday.

I might have to photoshop it a little as the light taken by a digital camera is not quite the same as in real life. I'll try and make it look close to real life.

If you check the reviews for those bulbs on iJDM, there is one that is addressing the same issue with the light not being xenon white.

TeamAcura

So there is no other option but to splice the OEM wires on the TL??? I really don't want to do it for this mod.

Edward'TLS

^^^^^

Not quite splicing, just crimp on some plastic tabs.

When returning the vehicle, those tabs can be removed, and electrical tape applied to cover those wires. Then everything is as good as new.

Bruce_Wayne

You could try those?

Speaking of which, has anyone tried those already?

TeamAcura

I'd love to try this but the 3157 type bulb adapters are out of stock! I'm not sure if anyone else tried these either. I'm sure another vendor has this type of adapter as well. I'll be searching and see what I come up with. I bought the load resisters with the bulbs but haven't installed them yet. I also heard of a LED flasher that's supposed to do the same thing as jpd985 mentioned and that you can buy at any auto parts store. This is the part # CF13JL-02
I haven't made time to do any of these yet.

Blaze9

I also have a 2012, and I'm looking for the 3157 type too. Emailed iJDMtoy to see if they will have any soon. What's that LED flasher supposed to do? You just replace it in the fuse box?

07wdptl-s

these 3157 4157 Hyper Flash Fix Error Free Wiring Adapters For LED Turn Signal Lights from jdmtoys will not work on our cars. I have bought a set for my 2012 crv and they did not work the reason is most Hondas, acuras uses the turn signal lights for blinkers and side marker lights.

Blaze9

Hey, I just installed these over the weekend. I'm experiencing hyperflashing. Can someone tell me which two colors are supposed to be spliced in with a resistor? I did black and blueish-green on the passenger side, and black and blue on the driver.

I have a 2012.