Catching up on maintenence with a used SH-AWD
#1
Catching up on maintenence with a used SH-AWD
After driving my 06 TL for the last 7 years, I just traded it for a 12 SH-AWD auto with 30,000 mi.
I have followed the MID on the last TL, but actions what might have been "missed" by the previous owner of my new one?
For example- what interval should you expect to change the diff fluid?
I am already planning 3x3 ATF drain, brake fluid flush (based on age), engine & cabin filters, and some paint work (clay bar, sealant/ wax) for this weekend.
I have followed the MID on the last TL, but actions what might have been "missed" by the previous owner of my new one?
For example- what interval should you expect to change the diff fluid?
I am already planning 3x3 ATF drain, brake fluid flush (based on age), engine & cabin filters, and some paint work (clay bar, sealant/ wax) for this weekend.
#2
After driving my 06 TL for the last 7 years, I just traded it for a 12 SH-AWD auto with 30,000 mi.
I have followed the MID on the last TL, but actions what might have been "missed" by the previous owner of my new one?
For example- what interval should you expect to change the diff fluid?
I am already planning 3x3 ATF drain, brake fluid flush (based on age), engine & cabin filters, and some paint work (clay bar, sealant/ wax) for this weekend.
I have followed the MID on the last TL, but actions what might have been "missed" by the previous owner of my new one?
For example- what interval should you expect to change the diff fluid?
I am already planning 3x3 ATF drain, brake fluid flush (based on age), engine & cabin filters, and some paint work (clay bar, sealant/ wax) for this weekend.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (12-17-2014)
#3
Congrats on the car...
Based on the in service date of the car have your battery load tested. Honda/Acura batteries are known for crapping out around 3 years / 30K + (give or take) miles without any warning..
Based on the in service date of the car have your battery load tested. Honda/Acura batteries are known for crapping out around 3 years / 30K + (give or take) miles without any warning..
The following 2 users liked this post by JT4:
justnspace (12-17-2014),
Nabooly (12-17-2014)
#4
bro, you got it!
maintenance will be VERY similar to the 3G with the addition of a differential.
at 30k miles, there are no maintenance cues on MID and she's still a baby.
I wouldnt worry too much, as 30k is VERY young
again, it will be VERY SIMILAR to your 3G.
maintenance will be VERY similar to the 3G with the addition of a differential.
at 30k miles, there are no maintenance cues on MID and she's still a baby.
I wouldnt worry too much, as 30k is VERY young
again, it will be VERY SIMILAR to your 3G.
#5
Finished cleaning the paint last night with the clay bar and put down two coats of Meguires Synth Wax. The finish looks 100% better.
I was able to search and find which washers and oil I will need for the rear diff, but read contradictory info on the front transfer case. Can someone point me toward a good DIY post?
On a side note- what's normal for tire life in the AWD model? Am I am crazy to think I will get close to 50K?
I was able to search and find which washers and oil I will need for the rear diff, but read contradictory info on the front transfer case. Can someone point me toward a good DIY post?
On a side note- what's normal for tire life in the AWD model? Am I am crazy to think I will get close to 50K?
#6
After I took the car home I got a message on the screen saying that the "charge was low and to take it to the dealer...".
The dealer tested the battery (measured >600 cca) and then "updated software". The message has not reappeared.
I admit I am a 4G TL noob, so if someone could explain what they did it would be appreciated!
#7
congrats man! I am in the same boat trying to figure out the maintenance that is required.... I, myself, am at 32k (bought it at 22k) ... I am in process of doing the ATF and Rear differential flush before the year end.
Check the battery cables, my battery was leaking and corroded the terminals.
Check the battery cables, my battery was leaking and corroded the terminals.
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#8
Interesting...
After I took the car home I got a message on the screen saying that the "charge was low and to take it to the dealer...".
The dealer tested the battery (measured >600 cca) and then "updated software". The message has not reappeared.
I admit I am a 4G TL noob, so if someone could explain what they did it would be appreciated!
After I took the car home I got a message on the screen saying that the "charge was low and to take it to the dealer...".
The dealer tested the battery (measured >600 cca) and then "updated software". The message has not reappeared.
I admit I am a 4G TL noob, so if someone could explain what they did it would be appreciated!
call the dealer and ask what exactly they did.
its pretty much the same as the 3G.
the 3G had software ECU updates too....
#11
Finished cleaning the paint last night with the clay bar and put down two coats of Meguires Synth Wax. The finish looks 100% better.
I was able to search and find which washers and oil I will need for the rear diff, but read contradictory info on the front transfer case. Can someone point me toward a good DIY post?
On a side note- what's normal for tire life in the AWD model? Am I am crazy to think I will get close to 50K?
I was able to search and find which washers and oil I will need for the rear diff, but read contradictory info on the front transfer case. Can someone point me toward a good DIY post?
On a side note- what's normal for tire life in the AWD model? Am I am crazy to think I will get close to 50K?
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...ential-893700/
As the thread says, you need either SAE 90 or 80W-90 hypoid gear oil, and no need to change until 45k miles. Basically, I'd head to the dealer to get the crush washers. There are two, and I can't remember whether they are the same size as the oil pan ones. There is one for the top filler hole, and one for the bottom drain hole. From what I remember, both bolts go into the transfer case from the side. NOTE: Make sure you can break the top bolt free first before removing the bottom one to drain it. As you can imagine, that would suck otherwise. Once you know you can get the top bolt out, drain the fluid by removing the bottom bolt. I can't remember if the bottom bolt has a magnet to collect metal shavings, but if so, clean that off before reinstalling. Then use a small oil hand pump you can get at an auto parts store, to pump oil out of the container, into the top hole. I believe the owners manual gives a quantity, but can't remember (I'm at work). However, if you jack up the car level as possible, just fill it up until the oil starts to spill out the fill hole.
Hope that helps. Sorry, it's not 100% since I'm doing this from memory.
#12
...oh, on the tires, I got 51,000 miles out of the Goodyear Eagle RSA's that were OEM on my Advance SH-AWD. I drive pretty aggressively too, but did rotate every 15-20k miles. I now have Continental Extreme Contact DWS's. They have crazy grip and won't break loose around "fun" turns unless you get insane. The RSA's were easy to get some fishtail action in comparison. The DWS sidewalls are ugly IMO. My only complaint.
#13
I highly recommend the external transmission filter.
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...tl-awd-911134/
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...filter-874455/
Mine had plenty of "debris" when I changed it at 15K miles
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...tl-awd-911134/
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...filter-874455/
Mine had plenty of "debris" when I changed it at 15K miles
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