2012 Acura TL Ticking Noise. (not fixing it an option?)
#1
2012 Acura TL Ticking Noise. (not fixing it an option?)
There has been a lot of discussion on the known oil consumption problem with the 4th generation TLs. Closely associated with that problem is the ticking engine noise (very often and most likely the cause of my current ticking noise in my 2012 TL SH, AWD. Has anyone driven their Acura with the ticking noise for a while? I think it'll cost at least $1500 to replace the cam lobe. I'm thinking about just driving it and dealing with the noise? Can anyone share their experience driving with the ticking engine noise?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
it's an attribute of the J-series engine....all of J-series engine has this ticking noise.
if you listen to some old Honda accords with the J30 engine, you will be able to find the ticking noise...
some older J30 Accords have more than 400,000 miles on them, never skipping a beat...although they have the ticking noise.
My J32 out of the 2006 TL has the same ticking noise..i'm at 150k miles. no ill effects
I think it is cam lifters.
if you listen to some old Honda accords with the J30 engine, you will be able to find the ticking noise...
some older J30 Accords have more than 400,000 miles on them, never skipping a beat...although they have the ticking noise.
My J32 out of the 2006 TL has the same ticking noise..i'm at 150k miles. no ill effects
I think it is cam lifters.
Last edited by justnspace; 07-21-2021 at 08:01 AM.
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altair47 (09-19-2021)
#4
Senior Moderator
J37 engine tends to consume oil when the oil control rings get clogged up with carbon.
1. Start doing frequent oil changes, every 5K at the most.
2. Check oil for any metallic flakes - the cam lobe is probably wearing/pitting and putting fragments through the oil which is not good.
3. Have you checked to make sure that it's the cam lobe and not a timing belt tensioner or valves needing adjustment?
You can get a junkyard J37 cam in good shape for under $200 and get a mechanic to install it. Once the cam is worn through the hardened area there is not much to save it back without $$$ and downtime.
I would highly advise against driving with any ticking noise, esp if it's the cam.
1. Start doing frequent oil changes, every 5K at the most.
2. Check oil for any metallic flakes - the cam lobe is probably wearing/pitting and putting fragments through the oil which is not good.
3. Have you checked to make sure that it's the cam lobe and not a timing belt tensioner or valves needing adjustment?
You can get a junkyard J37 cam in good shape for under $200 and get a mechanic to install it. Once the cam is worn through the hardened area there is not much to save it back without $$$ and downtime.
I would highly advise against driving with any ticking noise, esp if it's the cam.
#6
Senior Moderator
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#8
Instructor
These motors are NOT bulletproof. They're known for many common problems. My educated guess, the OP needs a cam or both, and multiple rockers...
Probably also needs pistons and rings due to oil consumption which is why the cam(s) are shot in the 1st place.
If the valvetrains inspect okay they you may just have an oddly loud fuel injector, not a big deal.
Probably also needs pistons and rings due to oil consumption which is why the cam(s) are shot in the 1st place.
If the valvetrains inspect okay they you may just have an oddly loud fuel injector, not a big deal.
#9
These motors are NOT bulletproof. They're known for many common problems. My educated guess, the OP needs a cam or both, and multiple rockers...
Probably also needs pistons and rings due to oil consumption which is why the cam(s) are shot in the 1st place.
If the valvetrains inspect okay they you may just have an oddly loud fuel injector, not a big deal.
Probably also needs pistons and rings due to oil consumption which is why the cam(s) are shot in the 1st place.
If the valvetrains inspect okay they you may just have an oddly loud fuel injector, not a big deal.
Sidebar: I think the Acura dealer changed my timing belt/tensioner/water pump, but didn't change the cam seals. How bad is that for me? Ive read that those seals are notorious for going out and should be changed. The timing belt was changed super early at like 60k, pre-emptively. Car has 75k now.
#11
Instructor
Thats pretty much the worst case situation no? That list looks pretty much the same as what the receipt from the Acura dealer for the oil consumption issue was. Is there any chance its just in need of a valve adjustment? Ive heard of a lot of the other more "bulletproof" Honda motors (I4) can have issues with ticking because they are in need of a valve adjustment. Performing said valve adjustment instead of driving for another 25k miles, seems to make a big difference even on those motors.
Sidebar: I think the Acura dealer changed my timing belt/tensioner/water pump, but didn't change the cam seals. How bad is that for me? Ive read that those seals are notorious for going out and should be changed. The timing belt was changed super early at like 60k, pre-emptively. Car has 75k now.
Sidebar: I think the Acura dealer changed my timing belt/tensioner/water pump, but didn't change the cam seals. How bad is that for me? Ive read that those seals are notorious for going out and should be changed. The timing belt was changed super early at like 60k, pre-emptively. Car has 75k now.
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
my cam seals are currently leaking.
i just havent had the motivation to fix it as I can just add oil.
i'm looking to change the clutch+rear main seal+ cam seals all at once
I swapped engines....so i'm lookin at 100k on the body and 150k+ on the engine
i just havent had the motivation to fix it as I can just add oil.
i'm looking to change the clutch+rear main seal+ cam seals all at once
I swapped engines....so i'm lookin at 100k on the body and 150k+ on the engine
Last edited by justnspace; 09-19-2021 at 04:22 PM.
#13
Instructor
Sounds like a good time to do it! Make sure you reseal the plate that rear main seal sits in as well.
#15
Instructor
#16
My friend has an account with dealer- they were ordered 3 months ago. The dealer that initially diagnosed my car got the Cam in stock in less than 2 weeks but they want full price..
#17
Racer
$399 for front and $360 for rear bank
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