Here's what I'm going to get:
18x8.75 +20 with 215/40/18 Achilles tires
18x9.75 +20 with 225/40/18 Achilles tires

I don't mind rolling all the fenders if they don't fit. I'm on H&R springs, so I'll be sitting a bit higher than you guys. Coils in the future.
Achilles are cheap but I heard they're great tires for dirt cheap, they won at drift championships.

 

Thank you very much for testing and posting.

I am disappoint. IIRC, a 5mm spacer is max to "safely" put on the factory studs, right AZ? Not giving up on the wheel, but with the roads I drive, I really am trying to stick to a 235 tire, even if it means staying at stock height.

 

Whyd you decide to go staggered instead of the 9.75 all around?

 

I'm dropped on Tein and have Koni Yellow shocks. Don't drive my car in the winter so it's in storage mode. TL Seth, i'm 18x8.75 and 33 et all around. But now I fould out that they don't clear the Brembo's. So just gonna wait to see how many mm's of a spacer is needed. Just hoping my 245's will be ok with the drop. This sucks. Hey thughunter1961, please let me know what kind of a spacer is needed to clear, thanks and good luck!

 

Okay here is the continuing XXR530 saga. First, for back ground I am working with a 2007 TL Type-S that is lowered on the A-Spec, which I believe is about 3/4" to 1". It sits a little nose down.

As stated above the 18x8.75 +33 hit the Bembos even though XXR, NL Motoring, and several other distributors promised they would clear. The +20 size clears, of course, but pokes too much for my liking with the amount the car is lowered. Also, as Sockr will atest, 225/40-18 is the largest tire that will clear, without fender work. I really did not want to start rolling, pulling, and cutting to fit the 245/40-18 tires I was planning to run. So back to the +33 wheels.

I liked these wheels much better than any others I have tried, that have a similar look. The Enkei Raijin,even at 8.5 has little concave. The TSW Nurburgring does not have near as much concave and the matte finish is a pita to keep clean. The XXR530 +33 has almost as much concave as the +20 in my opinion.

Sooo...to make a long story longer I brought home the +33 wheels, even though they hit the Brembos. I figured if I decided that if I couldn't make them fit I could sell them to one of you guys...lol. I got them home, I called in reinforcements by having a friend that is a Honda engineer, stop by to help brainstorm. So you have an old Honda/Acura Chevy/VW/Toyota tech and service manager, along with an engineer standing looking and pondering. We agreed that we had to make this work as the wheels are sexy.

We found it would take a 6mm spacer to totally clear the Brembos. This would solve that problem but creates the problem of running spacers, having to replace wheel studs, and possible clearance issues with 245/40-28 tires. I do not like running spacers. Replacing the studs is not too difficult, especially if you use the "cut a hole in backing plate trick" and knock them out that way. I also only had 5mm hubcentric spacers on hand. We found that the 5mm would clear on the right but was not quite enough for full clearance on the left. Weird but not uncommon.

Now the Engineer steps in with an idea. Let's grind the edge of the Brembo caliper rather than use spacers. Huh, are you nuts?? We might as well cut, pull, and roll fenders. What if we weaken structure? What if we grind right through to the piston? So he says, for the sake of all our fellow Acurazine XXR530 lovers we will experiment. We pull the Brembo caliper off and disassemble it to take measurements. Out come the fancy measuring tools and the Engineer determines that there is plenty of material that can be ground off to get the wheels to clear. Okay boys no guts no glory, out comes the ol' Makita grinder and we have at it. We grind the edge, that is hitting, on about a 45 degree angle. We also discover there is a little tab in the center that hits so that has to be touched up also. We grind and fit and grind and fit until the wheel clears. Tape off the ACURA lettering and grab the black paint to touch up the area. We are good to go.. Friday I will get the tires mounted and then be able to advise if the 245/40-18 clear or if I have to run 235/40-18. I have some 5mm spacers and studs if someone wants them, btw. Alright you can now burn me at the stake for grinding a Brembo brake caliper.

 

^thats ballsy right there

 

WOW. I think you've pretty much answered everything, and had to re-read your post about 10x for it to sink in. My father in law grinded down his calipers for his winter rims on his lexus rx350, but i'm still unsure if I want to grind down my Brembo's. I HATE SPACERS as much as you do according your previous post, but now i'm just lost. I want them to fit with the tire width, no grinding, but if spacers is what I have to do, i'll do it if I don't have to grind. Just seen a lot of calipers rust pre-maturely even after hi-temp painting. Mine are still mint. The way I figure it, if I get the spacers, if the rims sit flush and if the tires do as well, maybe ???? i'll have clearance? It's getting late, had a long day, brian is mush, hitting the sack. Damn it. Man when I was a kid, (still Am) stuff was so simple, my G.T. Perfomer BMX, I wanted new rims, bought light weight araya rims with red hubs and that was done. Now cars, with offsets, width and diameters. New, complicated game. I miss my bike.

 

Calipers are aluminium so grind away. No rust worries. If you are careful you can salvage the acura lettering and just touch up with black caliper paint. Nobody will know but you.

 

Wait a sec. You'd rather grind away part of your Brembos than run spacers? You crazy. Saying you don't want to run spacers and don't want to roll the fenders is strange to me. Both are very simple to accomplish, alleviate problems and have no side effects. Your wheel/tire specs and ride height are far less aggressive than mine yet you you submit yourself to more fitment issues than I ever have. Doesn't make sense to me...

 

Why in the hell would you grind down your brakes just so you don't have to run a small spacer? That's insane.

 

Ya id rather do fender work as well. Its pretty simple.
How are you liking your staggared setup
Btw? I read that you sort of regretted not
Going 9.75 all around. you think you could have pulled off 9.75 all around without complications?

 

I knew I was going to get nailed to the wall for grinding the calipers. That's okay, I got flamed pretty seriously for machining a couple mm off the mounting face, of a wheel, to make them clear a fender. I have broad shoulders...haha.

I think we all like to tinker and like the challenge of solving a problem. Further we get enjoyment out of individualizing our cars.

Everyone has their reasons for making motifications in a certain way. It may be a matter of personal taste, the look we are trying to achieve, or other reasons. Some like their cars slammed, others not so much. Some don't mind rolling, or using spacers, some do. Some like a stretch, others like a big fat beefy tire look. The bottom line is we all find pride in not driving plain vanilla. How we get there is individual preference.

As far as my choices, I had to take into consideration I live in Michigan, the pothole capital of the world, where our economy sucks so bad the roads are like offroading at Moab. My car is used, daily, as a commuter, so that is another consideration. Being slammed and running a stretched tire is not the optimal thing, given the environment. Therefore I chose the A-Spec and a 245/40-18 tire.

I chose the +33 because even on the A-Spec, the 245/40-18 was hitting the inside and outside of fender, during turns, with the +20. If you will check Sockr1's posts you will see his trials and tribulations regarding getting the +20 to fit.

I chose not to roll or pull fenders because, once again, I live in Michigan, and salt corrosion is a real concern. Even being careful sometimes, during a roll/pull, unnoticed damage is done to the paint, welds, and inner corrosion resistant coatings that eventually lead to a big ugly rust hole. There are a lot of ways a roll job can go sideways, then it is a trip to the bodyshop for paint work. And remember, every time a bodyshop grinds, sands, or welds, on a car, there is a high potential for doing damage to the inner factory corrosion protection. But also I am sure we can find just as many reasons not to grind a brake caliper.

As far as spacers, I just plain do not like them. Personal preference. And with spacers I was going to have fender clearance issues with the 245 tire. So the choice was spacers and a roll or no spacers no roll, and grind the caliper. I chose grinding the caliper. Frankly, with the wheel on the grind job is not noticable. I sanded the area smooth, taped off the ACURA lettering, and spray painted. Looks like it came from the factory that way...

Btw the grind job took about 15 minutes....and was fun....ha

 

Maybe in hindsight, given your dislike for rolling fenders and using spacers, that's the approach you should have gone with these wheels. Get the +20 and have it machined down to get the fitment you want.
I've been told by two sources that the difference between 18x8.75 +20 and +33 is only the thickness of the mounting hub. I haven't been able to verify this but the concavity between the two look identical to me and given how inexpensive these wheels are it makes sense from a cost stand point that they'd have one manufacturing process to make all of the wheels and simply vary the mounting hub thickness for different offsets.

I agree that the amount of poke on a +20 wheel doesn't look good unless the car is lowered more.

 

...nothing looks REALLY good unless it's lowered plenty. Just my opinion...a non lowered car, I'd much rather see oem wheels on some spacers.

 

thanks to thughunter for trying out a method and posting his results for other users to see, especially the ones considering getting the +33 for the brembos. i think it's fine that he tried something new to fit his car to his driving situation and knew the risks going in. what matters in the end is if something works for you personally and if you like it. i don't like spacers either but not sure if i would have gone the shaving brembo route either.

so i guess i will just sum it up for others to see:

+20: clears brembos easily, will most likely need all fenders rolled. get 225 tires, but if you are risky and want 235 you can make it work it's just going to take some trial and errror if you are lowered 1.5 or more (cutting inner fender tab/lip)

+33: clears brembos with a 6 mm spacer according to thughunter. or you can shave the brembo if you use a minimal spacer you probably will not have to roll the fenders with 235 or lower (245 is tbd as far as i know)

5 whole setup: check out sgmotoring on ebay, they are supposedly the only company that can distribute the 5 hole setup rather than the universal setup. props to jayvee for telling us all about that company

lugs: the lug hole seems to be a little on the narrow side. spline lock lugs and thin wall sockets generally work (muteki spline or drag spline but not muteki sr48 locks/sockets). some users have also gone with the inner hex locks as well (key fits inside the lug). not sure about non-lock lugs

lots of setups have been purchased lately (or soon, especially in canada haha) so if you have any questions about a setup please check the last few pages and see if your desired setup has been discussed.

overall these wheels look amazing for their cheap cost!!

 

If im lowered 1-1.5 (going to be lowering it with BC racing coils after i install rims)with 20 offset (18 inch) , what would you guys suggest 235 or 225 without rolling fenders....

 

I'd recommend 225 since you plan to go lower eventually. Depending on how low you need to go, you can possibly get away with no fender alterations like I am.

 

I'm going +20 so I really don't want to be doing a lot of fender/fender liner work in the fronts, so that's why I want 8.75's up front.

You're cray going 9.75 all around

 

After a talk with ebelp, Iv changed my mind lol
Im going to change my order to staggared.
Aint no body got time for constant rubbing up front! Hehe

 

@ cutting brake calipers....you fucking serious ??? while you are at it why dont you cut the axles so you wont have to do fender work !!!

I have a better option for you....why dont we do an even swap...you give me brembo calipers/rotors/etc, I will give you my AT caliper/rotors/etc and you wont have to bother about any kind of cutting....hell if you are 400-500 miles away, I will make the drive and we can swap

 

I just got my xxr's in! 18x8.75 +20 in chromium black and theyll be mounted with 225/40 tires but not sure what brand yet haha. But to the brake calipers cutter.... id never have the balls to do that haha but thankfully i got regular calipers Hopefully your plan works out though.

 

You are just jealous cause you didn't think of it first...haha. I'm sorry but I can not take you up on the generous offer to swap brakes.

Anyway what is the difference between spending hours rolling/pulling fenders and changing studs or spending 15 minutes grinding a little edge off the caliper. We all got to the same place just took different roads. I salute the guys that have the guts to do the roll. I have watched many roll jobs go sideways so if you are good at it you should open a shop.

We are all just modifying SOBs that is for sure. No guts no glory. Every XXR530 car, on this thread, looks awesome.

 

Seems like you have a warped image of what fender rolling actually entails. You know there's an actual tool meant to do this, right? If you use the baseball bat method, then yes, you're likely to damage your car.

Really though...a fender roller, a heat gun and an hour or two of patience is all you need. Difficulty level is probably a 4 out of 10.

 

Jealous of???

No, I would NEVER cut my caliper...there is a reason they have the extra material....and 5 or 6 mm spacers, you wont have to get extended studs as well....

If I were you, I would do it once and do it right....and its not about no guts no glory....that is just an excuse to do something stupid....

hey, am gonna jump from the roof of the building coz i dont like using elevators....I have seen sooo many elevators fall....no guts no glory !!!

 

lmao, nice analogy Anil.

 

why not just take the grinder to the wheel itself? In the end, it's probably cheaper to find another set of wheels than a caliper, no?

I hate elevators. Plus, all that time saved.


YOLO BISHES!
SPLATTTTTT

 

Where have you guys bought your hub centric rings? im guessing i need 73.1 --> 64.1 for TL-S. Any good options? and should i avoid plastic/aluminum?

Also any places to get TPMS from? Ebay safe for it?

 

Okay see now an informational thread has now gone from a friendly debate to using the term "stupid." Let me assure you I am far from stupid. I did not just jump to the caliper motification decision.

First, I know how to fender roll and I have noticed many a wavey paper thin fender with paint damage. Some roll jobs look okay, but in my experience many look like crap and cause damage and premature rusting. Even when using the proper tool. And that is just what can be seen from the outside. Then there is all the hidden damage to the inside corrosion protection and pinch welds, especially in the rear. Roll if you want, I choose not to.

Second, I have 5mm spacers and with the wheels mounted the stock studs get only 1 1/2 to 2 turns. Not enough for safety so extended studs are necessary. Also, if you would have read all my post you would see that with spacers I could not run a 245/40-18 tire. I would have to run a 225 tire and I do not like the look of the 225 on that rim. Further, the 225 offers less pothole protection. Also, I don't care how much you pull or roll, the +20 XXR 530 poke and look like crap unless you are slammed. And refer to my posts I can't be slammed, I live in the State of Crappy roads. For my application the +33 was the best option although I do like the idea of machine a set of +20 down to a +28 or +29. Maybe I will try that next. As one guy said, wheels are cheap.

Last, if you notice, in my posts, I have a friend that is a Honda engineer. We disassembled the caliper and there was plenty of material to make grinding a viable option. Many modifications are trial and error. Who are you to judge as to whose mods are correct?

 

^^^ well let me start off by apologizing....in no way I meant to display any hostility....

usually I voice my opinion and move on....I also usually end my opinion by saying "your money, your car"....because I am not in the place to judge your situation....

the only reason I am taking this a step further is because you are taking about CUTTING/SANDING DOWN YOUR BRAKE CALIPER....I really hope you are listening to the words which are coming out of my mouth (or fingers in this case)....

 

No hostility intended here. Wish I had taken pictures of operation would be easier to explain. With the wheel mounted the spoke strikes just a little of the leading edge of the caliper. Because the spokes angle out it strikes at a decreasing amount. I am not talking about grinding a ton off, just a little on the leading edge at a 45 degree angle. I think you guys got the idea I ground the piss out of it.

 

 

has anyone had a chance to get the 19" xxr's? Looks like they just got them in new for this year..

 

For seriously guys. What are we... 12?

Think about it this way, people probably laughed when the first guy choppednthe top on the first 32 Ford. So the guy nicked some of the metal off his caliper. Big deal. There are plenty of idiots who think its intelligent to tint their windhlshield. To each his own.

Back off a bit and applaud the guy for being innovative. For Christ sakes its the outer cover/housing, it is not like he ground away the mounting bracket or the brakeline.


Kids, y'all neednto mellow out.:rolleyes

Consider yourselves 'd

 

"For seriously"? Welcome to AZ. Pretty sure everyone involved in the conversation above has shown that they respect everyone's opinion, whether or not they agree with what the other thinks. No one needs to "back off" and "mellow out". If the conversation is too dramatic for you, you're in the wrong place. Better come back when you have thicker skin and can contribute to the topic.

Back on topic...don't worry Thug, swoosh can come off blunt, but he's actually a big teddy bear. Posting pics of your caliper mod definitely would've helped me and others understand. After further explanation, it doesn't seem as wacky as it did at first. I'm sure if you posted some pics, it could help out some others who want to run the same specs as you. Fwiw, I live in the salt & pothole capital of NY and my fenders are in great shape. You just have to get it done by someone who knows what they're doing and you'll be fine. The heat gun is key.

 

I don't know of anyone that has the 19" version yet. I've checked the specs, and I'm not a fan. There's a modest spec (19x8.75+15 or +35), and then a super aggressive spec (19x10.75+15 or +35). It doesn't make sense to me why there's no 19x9.75" option. The 19x10.75 won't fit (in either offset) without major camber, super stretched tires or fender mods. I guess these new specs are meant to appeal to the G35/350Z/IS crowd.

 

Mine were included when I bought my rims. I have the plastic rings and they work just fine from what I can tell. I've run my car to about 130mph and the ride is very smooth. Not sure about tpms as my car doesn't have it. And yes that is the correct size for the hubcentric rings

 

Finally got my stuff on. Loving it so far!

 

Actually, if you only needed to remove a little material from the caliper, I still think a version one 3 or 5MM spacer would have been the right way to do things. I do applaud the outside the box thinking but I'm old enough to know that shortcuts end up being the long and expensive way down the line. Not saying any harm will come in your circumstance but the older I get the more inclined I am to do things the right way.

I roll fenders. I refuse to do pulls or go too aggressive, I make sure people know that up front. Age of paint will also come into play in reference to whether or not the you'll get cracking or peeling inside the edge. You'd be amazed at how resilient and robust our fenders are...

Sorry, felt inclined to respond off topic. Back to the XXR's.

 

Took a couple quick snaps after tires installed. Sorry it is dirty. Took it to the track, early this morning, for some hot laps to test caliper mod. No complications and the ZR1 driver was surprised at how quick the car is, through the road course. The run finished off the old tires so then I was off to Discount Tire for the new Contis. I will pull a wheel and photo caliper mod sometime this weekend.

 

Awesome pic, NBP is so sexxy.