Wheel Consensus.
Wheel Consensus.
So which of the three wheels do you guys think will be nice on my SSM TL.
and i was wondering if all these wheels are three piece or cast.
The first one is a rota g force
the second and third are vorrstoen es1
and the last one is vorrstoen es3
and the wheels will all be 18x9.5 or 18x10.5
and i was wondering if all these wheels are three piece or cast.
The first one is a rota g force
the second and third are vorrstoen es1
and the last one is vorrstoen es3
and the wheels will all be 18x9.5 or 18x10.5
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Aren't the ES3's pretty tough to find? I wasn't particularly looking to buy these rims when I bought my Varrstoen's, but I didn't really see the ES3's on any site selling Varrstoen rims.
I probably will do a 9.5 all around, im not to fond of the aggressive set up. So right now i think im leaning towards the Es3 because i want some lip, and i really like the mesh but i don't think it will look good at an 18. and i really don't wanna get a 19.
So which of the three wheels do you guys think will be nice on my SSM TL.
and i was wondering if all these wheels are three piece or cast.
The first one is a rota g force
the second and third are vorrstoen es1
and the last one is vorrstoen es3
and the wheels will all be 18x9.5 or 18x10.5
and i was wondering if all these wheels are three piece or cast.
The first one is a rota g force
the second and third are vorrstoen es1
and the last one is vorrstoen es3
and the wheels will all be 18x9.5 or 18x10.5
Definitely go with 19's for the ones with lips....10.5 et 30 rear is gonna be flush....O.p just do 9.5 et 30 all around... et22 will be flush and will need stretching of tires, roll, and camber....
An aggressive setup is one in which you have a wider wheel than stock and a low offset. Running a 10.5 all around is not a good idea unless you want to do some bigger fender mods other than just rolling. A 10.5 in the rear is more common and easier to do because the fender flare is a bit bigger back there and can fit a wider wheel more easily.
Your best bet is to either do 9.5 front and 10.5 rear OR just do 9.5 all around. +22 is the lowest I would go with either setup though.
Your best bet is to either do 9.5 front and 10.5 rear OR just do 9.5 all around. +22 is the lowest I would go with either setup though.
An aggressive setup is one in which you have a wider wheel than stock and a low offset. Running a 10.5 all around is not a good idea unless you want to do some bigger fender mods other than just rolling. A 10.5 in the rear is more common and easier to do because the fender flare is a bit bigger back there and can fit a wider wheel more easily.
Your best bet is to either do 9.5 front and 10.5 rear OR just do 9.5 all around. +22 is the lowest I would go with either setup though.
Your best bet is to either do 9.5 front and 10.5 rear OR just do 9.5 all around. +22 is the lowest I would go with either setup though.
Tire stretching is using a smaller width tire and putting it on a wider wheel in order to decrease the chances of rubbing.
Here is an example of a non-stretched setup a 245/40/18 on 9.5" rim.
Notice that the tire basically sits flush with the rim lip?

Now here is a stretched setup. 215/40/18 on 9.5" rim
Notice how the tire is stretched and doesn't sit flush with the lip of the rim? This is done for clearance when a car is going to be lowered a good amount, you are running a wide rim, and a low offset. This is also done to decrease your chances of rubbing, on top of adding camber and rolling the fenders.
Here is an example of a non-stretched setup a 245/40/18 on 9.5" rim.
Notice that the tire basically sits flush with the rim lip?

Now here is a stretched setup. 215/40/18 on 9.5" rim
Notice how the tire is stretched and doesn't sit flush with the lip of the rim? This is done for clearance when a car is going to be lowered a good amount, you are running a wide rim, and a low offset. This is also done to decrease your chances of rubbing, on top of adding camber and rolling the fenders.
Yeah that stretch is a good amount, but I had to use that pic for a good example. Funny, I'm going to be doing a 215/40 on a 9.5" rim, but the tires I'm using stretch way better than those and the stretch looks just fine. Here is an exact setup like that, just a different rim.


Tire stretching is using a smaller width tire and putting it on a wider wheel in order to decrease the chances of rubbing.
Here is an example of a non-stretched setup a 245/40/18 on 9.5" rim.
Notice that the tire basically sits flush with the rim lip?

Now here is a stretched setup. 215/40/18 on 9.5" rim
Notice how the tire is stretched and doesn't sit flush with the lip of the rim? This is done for clearance when a car is going to be lowered a good amount, you are running a wide rim, and a low offset. This is also done to decrease your chances of rubbing, on top of adding camber and rolling the fenders.

Here is an example of a non-stretched setup a 245/40/18 on 9.5" rim.
Notice that the tire basically sits flush with the rim lip?

Now here is a stretched setup. 215/40/18 on 9.5" rim
Notice how the tire is stretched and doesn't sit flush with the lip of the rim? This is done for clearance when a car is going to be lowered a good amount, you are running a wide rim, and a low offset. This is also done to decrease your chances of rubbing, on top of adding camber and rolling the fenders.

And also does this reduce camber wear on tires?
Stretching tires does not reduce camber wear. What reduces camber wear is not running a ton of negative camber. An even bigger factor and most important factor in not having tires wear down to quickly is toe. You must have the toe set at 0 or as close to 0 as humanly possible. Having the toe too far from 0 will chew through your tires 10x faster than running negative camber ever will.









