Want to upgrade your Comptech RSB Sway Bar? Use better bushings w/grease fittings...
06-20-2006, 05:49 AM
#121
Originally Posted by gman44116
Kennedy, I ordered these bolts and would like to add a word of advice:
I purchased my car in November 2003 and installed my Comptech Swaybar back in February 2005. My bolts were extremely rusted when I installed the swaybar and yes, they are hard to get back on, especially with the new brackets. I tried to install the new greasable brackets last night and ran into a problem:
1. The bolts you used are great due to their length and material.
2. Unfortunately, the heads strip much easier than a regular hex head bolt. I ended up stripping all four before they were bolted all the way down.
This created an even bigger problem as it was extremely time consuming to get them off after stripping as no allen wrench would work. I finally got them off with a air wrench.
My suggestion is to use another stainless steel bolt, the same length as the ones you suggested but to go with a regular hex head bolt as you will run into less problems installing and potentially if ever required to remove the brackets in the future. The allen head bolts will be much harder later on to remove.
Just my
...................
I purchased my car in November 2003 and installed my Comptech Swaybar back in February 2005. My bolts were extremely rusted when I installed the swaybar and yes, they are hard to get back on, especially with the new brackets. I tried to install the new greasable brackets last night and ran into a problem:
1. The bolts you used are great due to their length and material.
2. Unfortunately, the heads strip much easier than a regular hex head bolt. I ended up stripping all four before they were bolted all the way down.
This created an even bigger problem as it was extremely time consuming to get them off after stripping as no allen wrench would work. I finally got them off with a air wrench.
My suggestion is to use another stainless steel bolt, the same length as the ones you suggested but to go with a regular hex head bolt as you will run into less problems installing and potentially if ever required to remove the brackets in the future. The allen head bolts will be much harder later on to remove.
Just my
...................Were you using English allen wrenches on metric bolts?
I use Wiha brand Metrics allen wrenches and had absolutely no trouble at all with getting them installed. It is always a good idea to clear the threads before installation to prevent galling, and perhaps use a little anti-sieze on the threads to prevent the differential metal oxidation if you think you'll be taking these on and off a lot.
The reason I elected to use the allen heads was due to the head clearance folks were having. Seems the hex head would barely fit due to the proximity of the bracket.
Perhaps another alternative would be a super strong grade 10.9 button head bolts (with cool black oxide finish). If you strip these, you got other problems:
PN: 91239A427
06-20-2006, 12:48 PM
#122
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Bwahahahha. I never post, but I just had to. I just bought a new 06 TL, coming from my 05 STi and wanted to improve the handling. So I bought a Comptech RSB today and then found this thread. Horespeowerfreaks is just down the road from my house! Too funny.
06-21-2006, 07:20 AM
#123
Originally Posted by Kennedy
That sucks... sounds to me like you were using the wrong size allen wrench.
Were you using English allen wrenches on metric bolts?
I use Wiha brand Metrics allen wrenches and had absolutely no trouble at all with getting them installed. It is always a good idea to clear the threads before installation to prevent galling, and perhaps use a little anti-sieze on the threads to prevent the differential metal oxidation if you think you'll be taking these on and off a lot.
The reason I elected to use the allen heads was due to the head clearance folks were having. Seems the hex head would barely fit due to the proximity of the bracket.
Perhaps another alternative would be a super strong grade 10.9 button head bolts (with cool black oxide finish). If you strip these, you got other problems:
PN: 91239A427
Were you using English allen wrenches on metric bolts?
I use Wiha brand Metrics allen wrenches and had absolutely no trouble at all with getting them installed. It is always a good idea to clear the threads before installation to prevent galling, and perhaps use a little anti-sieze on the threads to prevent the differential metal oxidation if you think you'll be taking these on and off a lot.
The reason I elected to use the allen heads was due to the head clearance folks were having. Seems the hex head would barely fit due to the proximity of the bracket.
Perhaps another alternative would be a super strong grade 10.9 button head bolts (with cool black oxide finish). If you strip these, you got other problems:
PN: 91239A427
There in now. And I guess that is all that matters. I certainly hope everyone the best with these bushings. I really like them. I must pick up a set of Wiha's...
Did anyone experience a very tight fit not allowing the grease to overflow from the sides? Mine are extremely tight around the swaybar.....
01-28-2007, 06:42 PM
#124
Advanced
Energy Bushings 9.5126R $16.17 shipped
BTW
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red 9-5126r, 9.5126R, 9-5126R, 95126R, 9.5126
$11.17 + $5.00 handling
http://autotruckpart.com/product.php?productid=323466
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red 9-5126r, 9.5126R, 9-5126R, 95126R, 9.5126
$11.17 + $5.00 handling
http://autotruckpart.com/product.php?productid=323466
02-03-2007, 07:03 AM
#125
Registered VTEC junkie
Originally Posted by swoodle
BTW
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red 9-5126r, 9.5126R, 9-5126R, 95126R, 9.5126
$11.17 + $5.00 handling
http://autotruckpart.com/product.php?productid=323466
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red
Energy Suspension 9.5126R, 7/8" (22Mm) Stabilizer Bushing Red 9-5126r, 9.5126R, 9-5126R, 95126R, 9.5126
$11.17 + $5.00 handling
http://autotruckpart.com/product.php?productid=323466
10-11-2007, 03:45 PM
#126
I figured I'd post this here because I haven't gotten any responses in the 2nd Gen section. I got a free 20 mm rear sway bar off of a 3rd Gen 6MT that I'm planning on installing on my 2nd Gen TL. My question is, do you think it's worth it to upgrade my bushings to the Energy Suspension ones? Also, Energy Suspension only makes non-greaseable bushings in the 20 mm size, although they do make a 20.5mm greaseable version. Can I use the 20.5mm version on a 20mm bar, or is 0.5mm enough to mess anything up?
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html
__________________
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html
__________________
10-12-2007, 07:37 AM
#127
Originally Posted by AMGala
I figured I'd post this here because I haven't gotten any responses in the 2nd Gen section. I got a free 20 mm rear sway bar off of a 3rd Gen 6MT that I'm planning on installing on my 2nd Gen TL. My question is, do you think it's worth it to upgrade my bushings to the Energy Suspension ones? Also, Energy Suspension only makes non-greaseable bushings in the 20 mm size, although they do make a 20.5mm greaseable version. Can I use the 20.5mm version on a 20mm bar, or is 0.5mm enough to mess anything up?
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html
__________________
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html
__________________
Good luck! Loved this upgrade, one of the best I've done to the car!
01-17-2008, 01:25 AM
#128
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so these energy bushings wont fit on a 2nd gen tl with comptech sways?
also do you just remove the 2 bolts on each side of the sways and can the bar move down so you can get the bushing off? i mean for the front sway bar bushings, cause the rears sways dont even need to be moved. but as for the fronts the bar looks like it needs to be moved in order to get the bushings out. am i correct?
also do you just remove the 2 bolts on each side of the sways and can the bar move down so you can get the bushing off? i mean for the front sway bar bushings, cause the rears sways dont even need to be moved. but as for the fronts the bar looks like it needs to be moved in order to get the bushings out. am i correct?
01-17-2008, 01:08 PM
#129
go to the local parts store and look at the package with the bushings
It gives a size range for each part# on the back. There is a little room for movement and grease so exact size is not the real issue- the right part for that size bar is what you want
It gives a size range for each part# on the back. There is a little room for movement and grease so exact size is not the real issue- the right part for that size bar is what you want
01-17-2008, 01:14 PM
#130
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what size range should i be looking for for the tls with comptech sways? I mean i read earilier that someone bought the size they needed but the bracket was too large or something so it didnt work?
01-17-2008, 01:15 PM
#131
Did you try downloading the instructions off the energy website link above?
01-17-2008, 03:07 PM
#132
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ok thanks for the help guys, but first first. I cant get the bracket bolt off for the love of god. I dont know how hard the numb nuts that installed the sways tightened the bolts but jesus i cant even make it budge. I mean im starting to strip the bolt away using a socket wrench! jesus i stoped and gave up, im so pissed now that i may have to take it to a shop to get freaking bushings replaced. And i know im gonna get raped on this install.
are there any other techniques anyone knows to get bolts off? i think literally he used a air gun to tighten the bolts.
are there any other techniques anyone knows to get bolts off? i think literally he used a air gun to tighten the bolts.
01-17-2008, 03:24 PM
#133
pre treat stubborn bolts with wd40 or penetrating oil-lube
01-17-2008, 04:33 PM
#135
No doubt they were put on with an air gun and probably with the car in the air and the suspension dangling just for extra pain for you!
check with Excelerate on sizes, comptechs new website under construction but you can always call them direct too
check with Excelerate on sizes, comptechs new website under construction but you can always call them direct too
02-01-2008, 08:18 AM
#136
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Tried to PM Kennedy, but his box is full. So, can anybody answer this:
Progress RSB and ES Greasable bushings go in tomorrow.
In the this Thread, it's noted that the Bushing Bracket cut-outs are not quite sized right for the hole positions on the TL.
There are instructions on filing the opening a bit and squeezing the bracket a little closed.
My question is: With the longer bolts (25mm button head), is this still necessary or can you get enough grab and torque from the bolt to make the act of tightening the bolt pull the bracket closed?
Progress RSB and ES Greasable bushings go in tomorrow.
In the this Thread, it's noted that the Bushing Bracket cut-outs are not quite sized right for the hole positions on the TL.
There are instructions on filing the opening a bit and squeezing the bracket a little closed.
My question is: With the longer bolts (25mm button head), is this still necessary or can you get enough grab and torque from the bolt to make the act of tightening the bolt pull the bracket closed?
02-04-2008, 03:33 PM
#137
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^^
FYI, even with the longer bolts I had to dremel/grind the bracket slots to be longer. Gave the brackets a *little* squeeze in a vise too.
Also be sure to connect the ends of the RSB to the End-Links before fitting the bushings. Holding the bar while trying to fit the brackets is tough enough; you don't need the bar moving around side-to-side while you're futzing around under the car.
FYI, even with the longer bolts I had to dremel/grind the bracket slots to be longer. Gave the brackets a *little* squeeze in a vise too.
Also be sure to connect the ends of the RSB to the End-Links before fitting the bushings. Holding the bar while trying to fit the brackets is tough enough; you don't need the bar moving around side-to-side while you're futzing around under the car.
07-24-2008, 03:10 PM
#138
rear bushings for 2nd gen?
Hi,
Has anyone replaced their comptech bushings for the rear sway bar with these for a 2nd gen TL? my bushings are causing crazy squeaks and i'd like to get the bushings replaced and whatever else needs replacing. anyone us these bushings greaseable or ungreaseable for the Comptech RSB for a 2nd gen TL??
thanks
Has anyone replaced their comptech bushings for the rear sway bar with these for a 2nd gen TL? my bushings are causing crazy squeaks and i'd like to get the bushings replaced and whatever else needs replacing. anyone us these bushings greaseable or ungreaseable for the Comptech RSB for a 2nd gen TL??
thanks
03-04-2009, 11:55 AM
#143
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Yes. Waste of time IMHO.
- Progress has urethane bushings already (as noted above).
- The Energy Suspension greasable brackets for the 24mm don't fit right and modification is a PITA (IMHO).
- There have been a rash of Sub-Frame weld failures where the RSB Bushing D-Bracket mounts. The beefier Energy Suspension bushing *may* exacerbate the problem (that is my own personal pet theory - not a proven fact or conventional wisdom).
After the weld breaks, I changed back to the Progress supplied bushing and have not noticed a difference.
.
- Progress has urethane bushings already (as noted above).
- The Energy Suspension greasable brackets for the 24mm don't fit right and modification is a PITA (IMHO).
- There have been a rash of Sub-Frame weld failures where the RSB Bushing D-Bracket mounts. The beefier Energy Suspension bushing *may* exacerbate the problem (that is my own personal pet theory - not a proven fact or conventional wisdom).
After the weld breaks, I changed back to the Progress supplied bushing and have not noticed a difference.
.
Last edited by Bearcat94; 03-04-2009 at 11:58 AM.
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