Want to upgrade your Comptech RSB Sway Bar? Use better bushings w/grease fittings...
03-16-2006, 07:04 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by Ol Blue Eyes
you will have the same fit issues i had with the 9-5158R. check the product specs, the minimum sway bar bracket minimum bolt center to center is 2 9/16. we need to be under that.
i ordered this one
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...3&autoview=sku
hopefully it works
by my assumptions the needed measurements on this should be right on with the TL
i ordered this one
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...3&autoview=sku
hopefully it works
by my assumptions the needed measurements on this should be right on with the TL
03-16-2006, 07:17 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by TL-CrAzIe-05
Thanks for the info!!! Let us know how things work out. If that is the case then I need to cancel my order as well.
will do!
Maybe nobody should order anything until we have some confirmed results of one of these working. I'll gladly be the guinea pig
, but i probably wont have any info. on them until next thursday(out of town alot). although, if they get here early enough saturday, I will have some info.
03-16-2006, 07:25 PM
#44
Ack sorry bout that guys, I just got mine too but was hoping to put em on this weekend.. the 9-5158R...are you sure there's no way to get them on?
What's the measurement of the 2 bolts (width) where it goes on on our TL?
I have a bench grinder, could flatten one part of a washer on it no problem or use my dremel.
What's the measurement of the 2 bolts (width) where it goes on on our TL?
I have a bench grinder, could flatten one part of a washer on it no problem or use my dremel.
03-16-2006, 07:34 PM
#45
Clean CL-the answer is no the different bushings and brackets each only work with one another...the stock bushing / bracket, the CT one, and the OEM ones are all different and need to go with their own bracket.
Look at the pics of the OEM vs stock, see the different shapes of the bushings (not to mention size) and you will see why.
The only good news here is that the aftermarket OEM ones cost only like $15 a set so if you got the wrong ones / they won't work, it's a hassle yes (sorry again)...but they should exchange for you no problem and give you another size.
.9-5126 looks like it would work for non-greasable...I'm going to try and fabricate / shave metal off of the ones I got here already though this weekend to make them fit and be-greasable version. I already own a grease gun from my boat too so shouldn't be a problem, we fabricate stuff like this all the time to make it fit on boats when needed! hehe... I'll report in when I have an update.
Look at the pics of the OEM vs stock, see the different shapes of the bushings (not to mention size) and you will see why.
The only good news here is that the aftermarket OEM ones cost only like $15 a set so if you got the wrong ones / they won't work, it's a hassle yes (sorry again)...but they should exchange for you no problem and give you another size.
.9-5126 looks like it would work for non-greasable...I'm going to try and fabricate / shave metal off of the ones I got here already though this weekend to make them fit and be-greasable version. I already own a grease gun from my boat too so shouldn't be a problem, we fabricate stuff like this all the time to make it fit on boats when needed! hehe... I'll report in when I have an update.
03-16-2006, 07:39 PM
#46
Zax -
My first set, the CT ones, I put on a latex glove, and used a can of good high quality marine trailer grease, then just swabbed the inside of the bushings and the surface of the sway bar where they mount liberally.
Pull off the glove when you're done and you won't be messy at all, works great, sell em in boxes of 100 at the Depot for all kinds of projects!
The greaseable version if we can get them fit and working, you put your grease gun on the grease fitting and pump the lever until you see grease ooze out the sides. Once a year re-grease (or more often)...pump until you see the water / dirty old grease begin to flow out the sides and you're good to go... 2 min job, just put down a drop cloth or something underneath to catch any drippings, that's what's so cool about the fittings. (As opposed to the current version where you would have to take it all back apart to re-grease once in a while).
My first set, the CT ones, I put on a latex glove, and used a can of good high quality marine trailer grease, then just swabbed the inside of the bushings and the surface of the sway bar where they mount liberally.
Pull off the glove when you're done and you won't be messy at all, works great, sell em in boxes of 100 at the Depot for all kinds of projects!
The greaseable version if we can get them fit and working, you put your grease gun on the grease fitting and pump the lever until you see grease ooze out the sides. Once a year re-grease (or more often)...pump until you see the water / dirty old grease begin to flow out the sides and you're good to go... 2 min job, just put down a drop cloth or something underneath to catch any drippings, that's what's so cool about the fittings. (As opposed to the current version where you would have to take it all back apart to re-grease once in a while).
03-16-2006, 10:08 PM
#47
Hey anyone know the diameter of our front sway bar? Thinking about replacing those too but I want to get the right part #.... probably take them off and measure the bracket first too...but the diameter is always hard to measure.
03-16-2006, 10:14 PM
#48
I have the greaseable ES brackets and I just surrendered tonight. I could get both bolts (after some persuation) in, but with no D-washers or bench grinder had to go back to the factory brackets and Comptech's bushings. In fact I cross-threaded the crap out of one of the nuts and had to tap it overside and use a new bolt 
However, I was thinking looking at it there isn't anything stopping us from using the OEM bolt for one of the holes (the one of the exhaust side) and drilling a new hole and just use a nut. That is all the OEM bracket is, hole with a nut tacked to it. In the meantime since it was apart, I greased the Comptech bushing and all's quiet...for now anyway.
However, I was thinking looking at it there isn't anything stopping us from using the OEM bolt for one of the holes (the one of the exhaust side) and drilling a new hole and just use a nut. That is all the OEM bracket is, hole with a nut tacked to it. In the meantime since it was apart, I greased the Comptech bushing and all's quiet...for now anyway.
03-16-2006, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gqchicago
Zax -
My first set, the CT ones, I put on a latex glove, and used a can of good high quality marine trailer grease, then just swabbed the inside of the bushings and the surface of the sway bar where they mount liberally.
Pull off the glove when you're done and you won't be messy at all, works great, sell em in boxes of 100 at the Depot for all kinds of projects!
The greaseable version if we can get them fit and working, you put your grease gun on the grease fitting and pump the lever until you see grease ooze out the sides. Once a year re-grease (or more often)...pump until you see the water / dirty old grease begin to flow out the sides and you're good to go... 2 min job, just put down a drop cloth or something underneath to catch any drippings, that's what's so cool about the fittings. (As opposed to the current version where you would have to take it all back apart to re-grease once in a while).
My first set, the CT ones, I put on a latex glove, and used a can of good high quality marine trailer grease, then just swabbed the inside of the bushings and the surface of the sway bar where they mount liberally.
Pull off the glove when you're done and you won't be messy at all, works great, sell em in boxes of 100 at the Depot for all kinds of projects!
The greaseable version if we can get them fit and working, you put your grease gun on the grease fitting and pump the lever until you see grease ooze out the sides. Once a year re-grease (or more often)...pump until you see the water / dirty old grease begin to flow out the sides and you're good to go... 2 min job, just put down a drop cloth or something underneath to catch any drippings, that's what's so cool about the fittings. (As opposed to the current version where you would have to take it all back apart to re-grease once in a while).
...I ordered the non greasable ones 9-5126R that came with the Energy suspension grease. It was tough getting the brackets on the car, just took a little work and patience. took the car for a quick spin around my neighborhood and the thumping sounds are gone. I used to hear the thumping just pulling out of my drive way, now nothing! will post again when i take the car on the open road. thanks gqchicago for the info.
03-16-2006, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Chingrin
When I called comptech they said it was common and did not effect the performance of the sway bar so I decided to by the energy ones. I wish I knew about using the gloves an hour ago ...I ordered the non greasable ones 9-5126R that came with the Energy suspension grease. It was tough getting the brackets on the car, just took a little work and patience. took the car for a quick spin around my neighborhood and the thumping sounds are gone. I used to hear the thumping just pulling out of my drive way, now nothing! will post again when i take the car on the open road. thanks gqchicago for the info.
...I ordered the non greasable ones 9-5126R that came with the Energy suspension grease. It was tough getting the brackets on the car, just took a little work and patience. took the car for a quick spin around my neighborhood and the thumping sounds are gone. I used to hear the thumping just pulling out of my drive way, now nothing! will post again when i take the car on the open road. thanks gqchicago for the info.so let me get this straight, 9-5126R bushings work with the CSB on 04+ TL's?
03-17-2006, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Ol Blue Eyes
so let me get this straight, 9-5126R bushings work with the CSB on 04+ TL's?
I orderd the non-greasable ones 9-5126R and they seem to work...drove to work this morning and did not hear a clunk, thump, or anything else.
I have a 04 tl at with the comptech sway bar.
03-17-2006, 08:18 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by Chingrin
I orderd the non-greasable ones 9-5126R and they seem to work...drove to work this morning and did not hear a clunk, thump, or anything else.
I have a 04 tl at with the comptech sway bar.
I have a 04 tl at with the comptech sway bar.
03-17-2006, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TL-CrAzIe-05
So the bracket and bushings and washers mat up perfectly....or did you have a little trouble bolting everything back up??? Thanks.
It has been a full day now and the car does seem tighter...might be my imagination though. either way it's way quieter, before with the oem bushing it would clank and thump over almost every bump now it's silent.
03-18-2006, 03:46 PM
#55
Just got done installing the greasable ones, a friend and I managed to get them on. It was a pain, he has good tools, especially a crawler and air tools, impact wrench. I did the D-thing to the washers beforehand and it turned out we didn't use those at all, just the ones that were on the original bolts.
Basically, the trick (besides filing down the holes just a tad)... was to pinch the bracket a little in a vise first before putting on the car. This made it harder to get the bracket on the bushing, which took some coaxing from a hammer to get it on, while being careful not to whack the grease fitting. Then, thread the bolts by hand, tighten where possible with a socket / impact, then finish off the job with a 12mm open ended crescent wrench, only thing we could get on it.
the left rear proved the worse, the muffler is in the way, 2 bolts to the exhaust with a 15mm impact air gun and it dropped out of the way allowing us to tighten that last left rear bolt.
Now I have the greasables installed, looks great, they're red too, big upgrade from the ones Comptech sent.
I took detailed pictures of the whole process in case anyone is interested, and will post back here shortly.
If you want the easy installation go with the ones they are suggesting in this thread that are not greasable (but come with a tube to start you off)...if you think you can handle a little finagling to get these in place then go for it, it's definitely doable.
I sure wish they made a size that fit better and had greaseables right out of the gate though, sheesh.
Basically, the trick (besides filing down the holes just a tad)... was to pinch the bracket a little in a vise first before putting on the car. This made it harder to get the bracket on the bushing, which took some coaxing from a hammer to get it on, while being careful not to whack the grease fitting. Then, thread the bolts by hand, tighten where possible with a socket / impact, then finish off the job with a 12mm open ended crescent wrench, only thing we could get on it.
the left rear proved the worse, the muffler is in the way, 2 bolts to the exhaust with a 15mm impact air gun and it dropped out of the way allowing us to tighten that last left rear bolt.
Now I have the greasables installed, looks great, they're red too, big upgrade from the ones Comptech sent.
I took detailed pictures of the whole process in case anyone is interested, and will post back here shortly.
If you want the easy installation go with the ones they are suggesting in this thread that are not greasable (but come with a tube to start you off)...if you think you can handle a little finagling to get these in place then go for it, it's definitely doable.
I sure wish they made a size that fit better and had greaseables right out of the gate though, sheesh.
03-18-2006, 03:55 PM
#56
Just got done installing the greasable ones, a friend and I managed to get them on. It was a pain, he has good tools, especially a crawler and air tools, impact wrench. I did the D-thing to the washers beforehand and it turned out we didn't use those at all, just the ones that were on the original bolts.
Basically, the trick (besides filing down the holes just a tad)... was to pinch the bracket a little in a vise first before putting on the car. This made it harder to get the bracket on the bushing, which took some coaxing from a hammer to get it on, while being careful not to whack the grease fitting. Then, thread the bolts by hand, tighten where possible with a socket / impact, then finish off the job with a 12mm open ended crescent wrench, only thing we could get on it.
the left rear proved the worse, the muffler is in the way, 2 bolts to the exhaust with a 15mm impact air gun and it dropped out of the way allowing us to tighten that last left rear bolt.
Now I have the greasables installed, looks great, they're red too, big upgrade from the ones Comptech sent.
I took detailed pictures of the whole process in case anyone is interested, and will post back here shortly.
If you want the easy installation go with the ones they are suggesting in this thread that are not greasable (but come with a tube to start you off)...if you think you can handle a little finagling to get these in place then go for it, it's definitely doable.
I sure wish they made a size that fit better and had greaseables right out of the gate though, sheesh.
Basically, the trick (besides filing down the holes just a tad)... was to pinch the bracket a little in a vise first before putting on the car. This made it harder to get the bracket on the bushing, which took some coaxing from a hammer to get it on, while being careful not to whack the grease fitting. Then, thread the bolts by hand, tighten where possible with a socket / impact, then finish off the job with a 12mm open ended crescent wrench, only thing we could get on it.
the left rear proved the worse, the muffler is in the way, 2 bolts to the exhaust with a 15mm impact air gun and it dropped out of the way allowing us to tighten that last left rear bolt.
Now I have the greasables installed, looks great, they're red too, big upgrade from the ones Comptech sent.
I took detailed pictures of the whole process in case anyone is interested, and will post back here shortly.
If you want the easy installation go with the ones they are suggesting in this thread that are not greasable (but come with a tube to start you off)...if you think you can handle a little finagling to get these in place then go for it, it's definitely doable.
I sure wish they made a size that fit better and had greaseables right out of the gate though, sheesh.
03-18-2006, 05:25 PM
#57
Here's the kit as delivered..
Tire ramps x2 and the crawler we used..
Got the right one on....thread the 2 sides very loosely at first...no washers from the kit just the stock..tighten as much as possible with 12mm socket, then finish with 12mm crescent wrench.
Left side we put in a vise and used a circular file to remove a little material...
Next we pinched the bracket slightly in the vise...
Put the bushing on the left side...these newer ones are pretty stiff actually a lot firmer than the old...hard to get the gap open and get em on..
Pinched bracket on top of the bushing..tap in place with a hammer cause it's pinched... don't hit the grease fitting..
Carefully thread the bolts and they'll get in there...gotta work it and be patient... having 2 people during this whole job helped a lot. The front one could tighten all the way down with a socket / impact wrench, the back wouldn't...so went as far as we could with the crescent, but the muffler gets in the way towards the end so you can't tighten any further...
So we decided to drop the muffler piece out of the way...2 bolts and 15mm impact wrench on the muffler and it came right off.... note: I don't think sockets would do it..you really need an air gun / impact to get off a muffler / exhause bolt like that...but took us 10 seconds with that tool.
The muffler part is on rubber hangers...we pulled off the front one so it dangled out of the way so you have room to turn the crescent the rest of the way.
Now...pull off the little black grease caps...
Hook up your grease gun and pump grease until you see it ooze out the sides...repeat every 6-12 months or so as you feel it's needed (just this last part).
Tire ramps x2 and the crawler we used..
Got the right one on....thread the 2 sides very loosely at first...no washers from the kit just the stock..tighten as much as possible with 12mm socket, then finish with 12mm crescent wrench.
Left side we put in a vise and used a circular file to remove a little material...
Next we pinched the bracket slightly in the vise...
Put the bushing on the left side...these newer ones are pretty stiff actually a lot firmer than the old...hard to get the gap open and get em on..
Pinched bracket on top of the bushing..tap in place with a hammer cause it's pinched... don't hit the grease fitting..
Carefully thread the bolts and they'll get in there...gotta work it and be patient... having 2 people during this whole job helped a lot. The front one could tighten all the way down with a socket / impact wrench, the back wouldn't...so went as far as we could with the crescent, but the muffler gets in the way towards the end so you can't tighten any further...
So we decided to drop the muffler piece out of the way...2 bolts and 15mm impact wrench on the muffler and it came right off.... note: I don't think sockets would do it..you really need an air gun / impact to get off a muffler / exhause bolt like that...but took us 10 seconds with that tool.
The muffler part is on rubber hangers...we pulled off the front one so it dangled out of the way so you have room to turn the crescent the rest of the way.
Now...pull off the little black grease caps...
Hook up your grease gun and pump grease until you see it ooze out the sides...repeat every 6-12 months or so as you feel it's needed (just this last part).
03-19-2006, 10:17 AM
#60
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gqchicago- Nice write up and pics. Thanks for going the extra mile on this subject. Is the part # you ordered and put on the 9-5158 or the other one that people were talking about, part # 9-5126??? Thanks for the clarification. I'm pretty sure you got the first part # to work just wanted to double check. I'm still waiting to see if Chingrin will be able to work the other part number.
03-19-2006, 11:11 AM
#61
Well it says he used the 9-5126R non-greasable ones and they fit fine, that would be the easiest route.
I used 9-5158R greaseable version, got them on but it was a pain, but doable if you're good at this sort of stuff, and having good tools like a crawler and air/impact tools helped out a lot too, as well as having a second person (who is very good at this kind of stuff...lol).
Anyone know the size/diameter of the front end sway bar? Is it the same in terms of bushings (guess I could go look/measure first, but maybe someone has a manual)... I'm thinking that Energy Suspension makes all kinds of similar parts for cars...and they're pretty cheap actually (like $10-15 each)... so if there's other ones I could replace easily I would do so...they are definitely a huge upgrade it terms of product quality, durability, performance, etc, over anything original made of rubber. Any thoughts / suggestions?
I used 9-5158R greaseable version, got them on but it was a pain, but doable if you're good at this sort of stuff, and having good tools like a crawler and air/impact tools helped out a lot too, as well as having a second person (who is very good at this kind of stuff...lol).
Anyone know the size/diameter of the front end sway bar? Is it the same in terms of bushings (guess I could go look/measure first, but maybe someone has a manual)... I'm thinking that Energy Suspension makes all kinds of similar parts for cars...and they're pretty cheap actually (like $10-15 each)... so if there's other ones I could replace easily I would do so...they are definitely a huge upgrade it terms of product quality, durability, performance, etc, over anything original made of rubber. Any thoughts / suggestions?
03-19-2006, 11:59 AM
#62
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Originally Posted by gqchicago
Well it says he used the 9-5126R non-greasable ones and they fit fine, that would be the easiest route.
I used 9-5158R greaseable version, got them on but it was a pain, but doable if you're good at this sort of stuff, and having good tools like a crawler and air/impact tools helped out a lot too, as well as having a second person (who is very good at this kind of stuff...lol).
Anyone know the size/diameter of the front end sway bar? Is it the same in terms of bushings (guess I could go look/measure first, but maybe someone has a manual)... I'm thinking that Energy Suspension makes all kinds of similar parts for cars...and they're pretty cheap actually (like $10-15 each)... so if there's other ones I could replace easily I would do so...they are definitely a huge upgrade it terms of product quality, durability, performance, etc, over anything original made of rubber. Any thoughts / suggestions?
I used 9-5158R greaseable version, got them on but it was a pain, but doable if you're good at this sort of stuff, and having good tools like a crawler and air/impact tools helped out a lot too, as well as having a second person (who is very good at this kind of stuff...lol).
Anyone know the size/diameter of the front end sway bar? Is it the same in terms of bushings (guess I could go look/measure first, but maybe someone has a manual)... I'm thinking that Energy Suspension makes all kinds of similar parts for cars...and they're pretty cheap actually (like $10-15 each)... so if there's other ones I could replace easily I would do so...they are definitely a huge upgrade it terms of product quality, durability, performance, etc, over anything original made of rubber. Any thoughts / suggestions?
I had these products on my 2000 Civic Si and they greatly stiffen up the chassis. I would definitely upgrade and change other bushings with the polyurethane if we knew the different sizes and part #'s. I say if you are willing to help us all out on the forum this would be a great plus for everyone and you have already been underneath the car and know what to look for (width/diameter) everything else. Thank you!!! 
03-19-2006, 05:01 PM
#63
I just put the front end up on ramps..to look at the front swaybar bushings and try and measure them. They're mounted on top of a part of the frame rather than underneath like the rears..look tough to get out from what I can see / tell so far. If I could get it out I could measure but looks tougher to get out.
The endlinks front and rear look easier to replace actually...but not sure what size / how / etc.
Or what else we could do easily..I'm pretty handy but not so much as a mechanic...I'm thinking a service manual might be a pretty darn thing to have handy for stuff like this actually, not as hard when you know how it's supposed to be done.
The endlinks front and rear look easier to replace actually...but not sure what size / how / etc.
Or what else we could do easily..I'm pretty handy but not so much as a mechanic...I'm thinking a service manual might be a pretty darn thing to have handy for stuff like this actually, not as hard when you know how it's supposed to be done.
03-20-2006, 11:22 AM
#64
gqchicago, great writeup along with the clear pics. I installed the 95126. I've purposely driven over speed bumps and driveway entrances. And so far there's no annoying thump sound. I'm hoping this is the cure.
03-22-2006, 06:18 PM
#65
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9-5126R Installed
well i got these on. thumping noise is officially gone! Easy as can be putting these on. i have a few pics to show you how destroyed the comptech bushings were.
Summit on the Left vs. Comptech on the right
Summit on the Left vs. Comptech on the right
thanks again for everyones help
Summit on the Left vs. Comptech on the right
Summit on the Left vs. Comptech on the right
thanks again for everyones help
03-22-2006, 06:33 PM
#66
Grats glad they worked! Now you see why I want to replace the other bushings / suspension parts on the car where possible? hehe..the rubber ones wear out, don't hold up well over time, not to mention the poly ones are stiffer. I'd like to do the front sway bar next potentially but it looked a lot harder to get access to them as you access them from the top down rather than bottom up like the back, so I'm not sure of the procedure, not to mention the size needed.
03-22-2006, 09:59 PM
#69
v 4910shp/19,600ft-lb v
Now, does the polyurethane crack easier since it's stiffer? I would think since the rubber is softer there's more play in colder temperatures...
O Blue Eyes, how old are the orginial comptech brushings? Your red energy suspensions are brand new, correct? I would like to see those after the same mileage (wear and tear).
Regardless, I think these new brushings could be a great upgrade...
O Blue Eyes, how old are the orginial comptech brushings? Your red energy suspensions are brand new, correct? I would like to see those after the same mileage (wear and tear).
Regardless, I think these new brushings could be a great upgrade...
03-22-2006, 10:04 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by gqchicago
Now...pull off the little black grease caps...
Hook up your grease gun and pump grease until you see it ooze out the sides...repeat every 6-12 months or so as you feel it's needed (just this last part).
BTW, I used the washers because I was afraid the bolts might slip through under flex. Not sure if the TL ones are slightly larger or not.
03-22-2006, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
Wow How old where they?
i believe I installed my sway bar from comptech almost exactly a year ago. probably about 14k miles on it since the install. starting noticing the clunking noise around august(not for sure) some time.
kjelly, yes they are brand new, and I myself will be curious to see them after after some wear and tear. time will tell.
03-23-2006, 04:09 PM
#72
Three Wheelin'
Get the H&R sway bar and dont worry about a thing. a bit more expensive but you know for sure u bought a quality product !!! - and never worry about any clunk thump o whatever kind of noises 
03-23-2006, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BukvaMan
Get the H&R sway bar and dont worry about a thing. a bit more expensive but you know for sure u bought a quality product !!! - and never worry about any clunk thump o whatever kind of noises
what sense did it make posting that? we were trying to fix the problem at hand, not deciding what rear sway bar to get next. we don't have a problem with the sway bar, its the bushings that came with it.
03-24-2006, 07:46 AM
#74
And they all squeak and thump, hence, why do you think they even MAKE a bushing with a grease fitting built into it? Rub and twist a big piece of metal on rubber all day and you think it's not going to squeak eventually if it's not lubricated? Even if I had H&R I would upgrade my bushings, unless it comes with the poly ones right off the bat? (Perhaps you could research that and actually provide some USEFUL information! =p)
03-24-2006, 07:52 AM
#75
Team Anthracite Member
Darn, looks like they do come with Teflon bushings 
http://www.hrsprings.com/site/products/swaybars.html
Oh well, I'm sure I'll be happy with the Comptech when I receive it and the Energy bushings which I've already received.
http://www.hrsprings.com/site/products/swaybars.html
Oh well, I'm sure I'll be happy with the Comptech when I receive it and the Energy bushings which I've already received.
03-24-2006, 03:50 PM
#76
Three Wheelin'
ive seen someone posting pictures where the bar actually broke in half .... im not saying its a bad product but im sure H&R has reasons to be more expensive its made out of better material. And i belive them more then comptech thats all
thats all
03-24-2006, 05:44 PM
#77
Man of God.....
Could you post a link to the H&R bar for the TL'S? I did search the net. but no cigar. Oh I found sway bars - big time. But didn't find the one for my 06TL.
Thanks
Thanks
03-25-2006, 10:40 AM
#79
the h&r bar is adjustable and comes with teflon bushings. thats what your paying for, not an increased quality of the actual bar. show me proof of comptech's bar snapping in half. both bars are 22mm. i'm going to find out if the CT bar is Solid and if the H&R is solid. THAT is what will make the difference performance wise. if they are both internally the same, way spend over 200 for a bar that can be purchased for less than 150 and that include new grease fitting bushings. i guess an extra $50+ to give a piece of mind that you will never have to worry about the bushings is an added bonus.
but didn't anyone ever think to wrap teflon tape aroudn the bar where the bushing goes? why pay more when i can put my own teflon tape on it.
but didn't anyone ever think to wrap teflon tape aroudn the bar where the bushing goes? why pay more when i can put my own teflon tape on it.
03-25-2006, 02:32 PM
#80
IDontRideFastIJustFlyLow
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: GA
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
but didn't anyone ever think to wrap teflon tape aroudn the bar where the bushing goes? why pay more when i can put my own teflon tape on it.