swaybar install help
#1
swaybar install help
So I went out to install my swaybar and getting off the endlinks is proving to be a challenge. Apparently the hollow bolts on them dont accept a hex key like I thought. Anyone know off hand what bit I need to get in the hollow link bolts?
#3
You're right they are. I was using the right one (5mm) but apparently acura didn't account for the fact that someone might need to take off the bolts after driving in salt slush for two years. Even after PB blasting the bolt it was a no go and I think I stripped one of the hex heads. (why they didn't put a flat spot on the otherside of the bolt for an open ended wrench like most other similar setups I've dealt with...)
#4
Do whatever thrash is needed to remove the bolts
Replacement- nice upgrades, MOOG brand- end links will come with a way to easily tighten, not the `easy for the factory to assemble` allen wrenches
When you are a factory worker blasting them on quick, an allen slips in and locks fully- no stripping
Call a few parts stores to find them
The stock end link isnt enough for the new bar anyway- get stronger parts to handle load
Replacement- nice upgrades, MOOG brand- end links will come with a way to easily tighten, not the `easy for the factory to assemble` allen wrenches
When you are a factory worker blasting them on quick, an allen slips in and locks fully- no stripping
Call a few parts stores to find them
The stock end link isnt enough for the new bar anyway- get stronger parts to handle load
#6
Careful with that approach if you plan to reuse the end links. With lock nuts, the nut grabs the thread and can spin the ball joint, which may damage it. Of course, if you're planning on replacing the end links, then have at it! Whatever it takes to get those suckers out.
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#8
clamp a vise-grip against the metal ring on the other side of the sway bar to keep the joint from spinning and hit it with an impact gun. A few short bursts should be enough to get it off. Since you're keeping the joint from spinning this has the added bonus of allowing you to reuse the link, but it sounds like yours might benefit from being replaced anyway.
#9
clamp a vise-grip against the metal ring on the other side of the sway bar to keep the joint from spinning and hit it with an impact gun. A few short bursts should be enough to get it off. Since you're keeping the joint from spinning this has the added bonus of allowing you to reuse the link, but it sounds like yours might benefit from being replaced anyway.
Anyhow the bar feels nice. Not as big a difference as my last car, but the rear feels alot more in control around off ramps etc. Only slightly more bumpy on normal roads.
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