Psi.
#1
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Psi.
my tire size is 225 35 20 and the max psi I can load is 50. a cop hat im cool with told me to put 45 psi appose to the 30 I had before so the tire can get hard and the rim will be hard to bent on pot holes. I been running 45 psi for like 3 months and today I bring it to the shop and he tells me 45 is to much and I tell him just put it and he goes put on the door it says 30psi and I tell him that's for the stock tires. am I running good on 45 psi? and on the door where it says 30 psi that's for the stock rims right?
#2
the rule is 5 before the maximum psi...
But I keep 36 Front and 33 Rear (TL-S)
The more you put, the better the acceleration, and the longer it takes for tires to heat up...
The lower, the better (and softer) the handling, but you are loosing mpgs..and tires heat up much faster.
Edit for your rimmies, I would probably keep 44 front and 44 rear.
But I keep 36 Front and 33 Rear (TL-S)
The more you put, the better the acceleration, and the longer it takes for tires to heat up...
The lower, the better (and softer) the handling, but you are loosing mpgs..and tires heat up much faster.
Edit for your rimmies, I would probably keep 44 front and 44 rear.
#5
if MAX is 50, 45 sounds good...considering NYC pot holes...
On my low profiles I always run -5 from the max..I got bubbles though, but it protect the rim more... Just make sure to always check your tire pressure using a pro gauge.
But it's your preference of the ride quality you want. What's the max load on your tires???
PS Just because someone says so, it doesn't make it true
On my low profiles I always run -5 from the max..I got bubbles though, but it protect the rim more... Just make sure to always check your tire pressure using a pro gauge.
But it's your preference of the ride quality you want. What's the max load on your tires???
PS Just because someone says so, it doesn't make it true
#6
Originally Posted by jimsta
I never knew about this 5 before max PSI rule, I usually just rock about 34-36 PSI for all of them and I'm running stock rims.
Stockies.. 36 is beautiful. If you fishtail, you may want to drop a few psi in the rear, but 36 all around on base TL is good. It's all depends on your driving style and the weather.
#7
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Originally Posted by TeknoKing
if MAX is 50, 45 sounds good...considering NYC pot holes...
On my low profiles I always run -5 from the max..I got bubbles though, but it protect the rim more... Just make sure to always check your tire pressure using a pro gauge.
But it's your preference of the ride quality you want. What's the max load on your tires???
PS Just because someone says so, it doesn't make it true
On my low profiles I always run -5 from the max..I got bubbles though, but it protect the rim more... Just make sure to always check your tire pressure using a pro gauge.
But it's your preference of the ride quality you want. What's the max load on your tires???
PS Just because someone says so, it doesn't make it true
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#8
^^^ cold air pressure...
If you are running for a while, and you want to check pressure. I usually pump all tires up to around max.... wait 5 mins or so, and then release to 2 psi before my goal on all, and then I come around and adjust them properly... HOT air cannot be trusted.
If you are running for a while, and you want to check pressure. I usually pump all tires up to around max.... wait 5 mins or so, and then release to 2 psi before my goal on all, and then I come around and adjust them properly... HOT air cannot be trusted.
#9
WDP Director of R & D
I don't have any experience with rims / tire sizes bigger than 18 inch yet many times running over 40 psi can effect center tread wear. (some tires worse than others)
Like stated above however, it all comes down to a balance between rim protection, performance, and ride comfort. I don't have an issue with really bad roads given my driving arena thus rim protection from potholes isn't my primary concern. Mine is a balance between best ride and perfect tire wear / longevity.
ac08odl,
The max pressure value on your tire is just that, the max "safe" psi for any given load etc..
And you are right, the tire pressure values on the door jam are for the OEM tires. However, those values are also intended for any tire of "OEM size" used on the vehicle - to provide the best balance between ride, performance and safety.
To answer your question, 45psi in "your" tires is completely safe for the tire. I'm sure you're sacrificing a little ride comfort for rim protection but a guys got to do what it takes. My only suggestion would be to keep an eye on the center of your tires to ensure the tires aren't "arching", causing uneven tread wear.
Drive safe
Like stated above however, it all comes down to a balance between rim protection, performance, and ride comfort. I don't have an issue with really bad roads given my driving arena thus rim protection from potholes isn't my primary concern. Mine is a balance between best ride and perfect tire wear / longevity.
ac08odl,
The max pressure value on your tire is just that, the max "safe" psi for any given load etc..
And you are right, the tire pressure values on the door jam are for the OEM tires. However, those values are also intended for any tire of "OEM size" used on the vehicle - to provide the best balance between ride, performance and safety.
To answer your question, 45psi in "your" tires is completely safe for the tire. I'm sure you're sacrificing a little ride comfort for rim protection but a guys got to do what it takes. My only suggestion would be to keep an eye on the center of your tires to ensure the tires aren't "arching", causing uneven tread wear.
Drive safe
#10
Max Load is a weight given for the limit of the tire- max weight allowable on it
thats the weight on the tire thru the suspension - if you put a scale under each wheel you get whats called corner weight, thats the Actual weight bearing on each individual tire.
The TL weighs what- about 3800? with a 60/40% distribution, now mathalete or gonkulate out the corner weights (roughly for this example)- . Now you have the Actual tire load- which when lower than the weight listed on the tire,, also LOWERS pressure required/max at lower load.
Now what does the tire say- Max pressure at 1207 lbs? 1300 lbs--what??? and you have 900-950 lbs...50psi become 45..percentage of that brings you down to 40...
The tires are not designed to protect the rims, and when you go extreme diamter and low profile, its a trade off -- dodging potholes and bumps for the look you wanted.
My belief was that 80% of max pressure was good to start with, and adjust from there.
Those with simple $40 non-contact infra-red thermometers with laser pointer for precision testing!, can run down the freeway normal and hop off- take a quick read of the outer-center-inner 1/3s of each tire- make a chart- The temps ideally are even, or very close across the tire. Higher temp on 1 or 2 areas can indicate under or overpressure or camber problems.
Check them on fun runs to see whats happening in the real world too- after you assault some asphalt- check the temps-- and may require a minor pressure adjustment.
For the purpose of checking tire pressure- Cold mean driven less than 1 mile to the gas station at 25 mph.
Warm tires can be 2 psi higher just from a 5 mile drive up the freeway.
thats the weight on the tire thru the suspension - if you put a scale under each wheel you get whats called corner weight, thats the Actual weight bearing on each individual tire.
The TL weighs what- about 3800? with a 60/40% distribution, now mathalete or gonkulate out the corner weights (roughly for this example)- . Now you have the Actual tire load- which when lower than the weight listed on the tire,, also LOWERS pressure required/max at lower load.
Now what does the tire say- Max pressure at 1207 lbs? 1300 lbs--what??? and you have 900-950 lbs...50psi become 45..percentage of that brings you down to 40...
The tires are not designed to protect the rims, and when you go extreme diamter and low profile, its a trade off -- dodging potholes and bumps for the look you wanted.
My belief was that 80% of max pressure was good to start with, and adjust from there.
Those with simple $40 non-contact infra-red thermometers with laser pointer for precision testing!, can run down the freeway normal and hop off- take a quick read of the outer-center-inner 1/3s of each tire- make a chart- The temps ideally are even, or very close across the tire. Higher temp on 1 or 2 areas can indicate under or overpressure or camber problems.
Check them on fun runs to see whats happening in the real world too- after you assault some asphalt- check the temps-- and may require a minor pressure adjustment.
For the purpose of checking tire pressure- Cold mean driven less than 1 mile to the gas station at 25 mph.
Warm tires can be 2 psi higher just from a 5 mile drive up the freeway.
#11
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Originally Posted by ac08odl
... am I running good on 45 psi? and on the door where it says 30 psi that's for the stock rims right?
FWIW, Acura recommends 39F/36R for the A-Spec 18" wheels, so you should use that as a minimum on your 20s.
I think 45 psi is high, but I would do what the WHEEL MANUFACTURER recommends.
Measure psi COLD per 01tl4tl's post above.
#12
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Max Load is a weight given for the limit of the tire- max weight allowable on it
thats the weight on the tire thru the suspension - if you put a scale under each wheel you get whats called corner weight, thats the Actual weight bearing on each individual tire.
The TL weighs what- about 3800? with a 60/40% distribution, now mathalete or gonkulate out the corner weights (roughly for this example)- . Now you have the Actual tire load- which when lower than the weight listed on the tire,, also LOWERS pressure required/max at lower load.
Now what does the tire say- Max pressure at 1207 lbs? 1300 lbs--what??? and you have 900-950 lbs...50psi become 45..percentage of that brings you down to 40...
The tires are not designed to protect the rims, and when you go extreme diamter and low profile, its a trade off -- dodging potholes and bumps for the look you wanted.
My belief was that 80% of max pressure was good to start with, and adjust from there.
Those with simple $40 non-contact infra-red thermometers with laser pointer for precision testing!, can run down the freeway normal and hop off- take a quick read of the outer-center-inner 1/3s of each tire- make a chart- The temps ideally are even, or very close across the tire. Higher temp on 1 or 2 areas can indicate under or overpressure or camber problems.
Check them on fun runs to see whats happening in the real world too- after you assault some asphalt- check the temps-- and may require a minor pressure adjustment.
For the purpose of checking tire pressure- Cold mean driven less than 1 mile to the gas station at 25 mph.
Warm tires can be 2 psi higher just from a 5 mile drive up the freeway.
thats the weight on the tire thru the suspension - if you put a scale under each wheel you get whats called corner weight, thats the Actual weight bearing on each individual tire.
The TL weighs what- about 3800? with a 60/40% distribution, now mathalete or gonkulate out the corner weights (roughly for this example)- . Now you have the Actual tire load- which when lower than the weight listed on the tire,, also LOWERS pressure required/max at lower load.
Now what does the tire say- Max pressure at 1207 lbs? 1300 lbs--what??? and you have 900-950 lbs...50psi become 45..percentage of that brings you down to 40...
The tires are not designed to protect the rims, and when you go extreme diamter and low profile, its a trade off -- dodging potholes and bumps for the look you wanted.
My belief was that 80% of max pressure was good to start with, and adjust from there.
Those with simple $40 non-contact infra-red thermometers with laser pointer for precision testing!, can run down the freeway normal and hop off- take a quick read of the outer-center-inner 1/3s of each tire- make a chart- The temps ideally are even, or very close across the tire. Higher temp on 1 or 2 areas can indicate under or overpressure or camber problems.
Check them on fun runs to see whats happening in the real world too- after you assault some asphalt- check the temps-- and may require a minor pressure adjustment.
For the purpose of checking tire pressure- Cold mean driven less than 1 mile to the gas station at 25 mph.
Warm tires can be 2 psi higher just from a 5 mile drive up the freeway.
The young man simply asked if 45 psi was OK given his "desire" to help protect the rims. Most individuals asking this type of question also aren't running around with fancy thermo devices to chart tread temps over the tire - nor is that their desire.
Also ac08odl,
There is nothing wrong with the thought of running a few extra psi's to mitigate rim damage from rough roads. Normally, the only "trade-off" is ride comfort. Besides, the "tire" is the only thing "protecting" the rim - what else would be? Extra psi within limits just facilitates the tires ability to protect the rim....
Now for the "gonkulation". I'll use my tire parameters for this simple example..
1521 lbs max running 51 psi. That means that my TL could be loaded to near 6000 lbs and I could "safely" be driving around with 51psi in the tires. Now if you then instantly unloaded the TL down to the normal 900 per wheel like 01tl mentioned, your psi would also drop to approx 45psi given the lighter load on the tires. Bottom line, as long as your tire max load figure is not exceeded (which should be about 1325lbs for your posted size), you can run up to the max psi parameter safely. Thus the 45psi question remains OK/safe.
Tire temps.
I've had up to 3 psi difference from one side of the car to the other just from it sitting in the driveway with the TX sun predominately shining on one side.
I just check them in the morning when its been in the garage all night. That's considered my cold reading... Check them when I pull in the driveway after my 30 mile commute, that's my hot. The only way to truly eliminate all of the hot/cold pressure checks during temp/season changes is to run nitrogen.
Also, No fancy infrared checker required for the normal TL owner. However, it may come in handy to check across the tread as you described to achieve the perfect pressure/contact patch.
It's all good.
Cheers
#13
I dont NEED an EGT led exhaust temp display, but I happen to have one laying around.......and I do like my gadgets.
Many times I write for the masses of future readers- more than a direct answer to a question.
It a hobby~
Many times I write for the masses of future readers- more than a direct answer to a question.
It a hobby~
#14
Pro
I run 36psi up front and 33psi in the back. This is cold tire air pressure like 1st thing in the morning when I go to start the car up. I garage it too if that makes a difference to some when it comes to tire pressure.
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