I got the compression test done a short while ago. This requires removing the SC in order to get to the front plugs. But I think I have gotten down a good technique as both the removal and installation took less than 30 minutes each.

First I want to go over something I found weird in the shop manual. It states a minimum pressure of 135 PSI with a maximum variance of 28 PSI. Nor did it stipulate standard numbers.

But this is for both the J32A1 and J32A2 engines. To me this did not make sense. The J32A1 has a CR of 9.8:1 with the J32A2 having a CR of 10.5:1. Naturally the J32A2 motor should have higher pressure numbers but the minimum is listed as the same and low from what I understand.

I know there is no absolute on CR versus compression test results; but there is a general range for a given CR. For a 9.8:1 motor like the J32A1 I would expect a standard range of about 200 PSI give or take about 20 PSI. On a 10.5:1 CR like the J32A2 I would expect a standard range of about 225 PSI, again give or take about 20 PSI. This is with the maximum variance not exceeding 10% and less than 5% is great.

Has anyone else done a compression test for comparison or maybe Jens could chime in on this matter as I am sure he has done one or two on the J32A2??

Anyway, here are the results (rounded to the nearest 5 which is within 1%):

1) 225
2) 220
3) 230
4) 220
5) 230
6) 220

Now all were between 220 and 230 so the rounding spread the numbers further. But in the end the engine is very sound and that lean running condition along with pinging did not hurt it at all. In fact I was very surprised at the number; they were higher than expected and I was very pleased with the results. It does appear that the J32A2 can take some poor tuning without the slightest damage.

Now on to more modification!!!

BTW, while I have everything out I also changed the plugs to the ones supplied with the SC kit. When I installed the kit I left the Denso IK20's in I had recently installed. I did this because there were fresh plugs in the engine that I paid for and honestly, I did not read the numbers on the supplied plugs. :o They are IK22's which are a range colder. So I suspect that this, along with the lean condition, did not help the pinging I experienced with the higher boost pulley.

All is good and time for more boost, hint hint Brad...

 

now you are ready for a higher boost! I bet you are relieved that your engine wasn't damaged.

When do you think you will make it to the track?

kevin
03
6-spd
icbox cai

 

:P

 

I am definitely relieved; but I was pretty confident there was not a problem all along. The boost was still minimal and knowing Honda's history in engines, they can take some abuse.

I won't be making it to the track anytime soon. It is mid summer and I live in the south. Any runs would not be record setting. But most importantly, the twins are due within the next month so I'd prefer to stay close at home.

 

Just get that IC done and test it. Then we'll worry about the return of the pulley.

I'll be more than busy soon to deal with the car...

BTW, if you adjust your fuel pressure be sure that the aluminum washer does not crack and fall off. Shad and I feel this is what happened (although I do not feel the washer should be a one time use thing).

 

The IC is not needed at 6psi. I plan on testing the IC at 7.5-8 psi. I will get yours back before the IC is done. Hopefully you can get it all put back together before the fun begins.

 

That's what I like to hear!!!!!!

 

Excellent...

Glad to hear the compression test worked out...

Did your Kit plugs come gapped?


Smitty

 

Yep, plus you probably don't want to try to gap these the conventional way. With that tiny center electrode I would be worried about damage.

 

cool

 

We might have a problem though and the reason why I wished Comptech had used the MP90 blower. To generate 7.5 PSI boost or about 0.5 Bar the blower will need to turn 2.359 times faster than the engine.

62 ci blower
97.5 ci used per rotation on this 4 stroke 195 ci motor
97.5 * 1.5 (boost ratio for 0.5 BAR) = 146.25 ci needed
146.25 / 62 = 2.359

At 7000 RPM this would put the blower speed at 16,513
At 6000 RPM the blower would be turning 14,154

Looking at the charts for the blower:

http://www.magnusonproducts.com/mp62.htm

16k revs on the blower is about max. But this should be fine at about 7.5 PSI boost. Much more than this and we will be running well outside the tolerable range. But the problem comes in with the efficiency. At 7.5 PSI boost we will be heating the air about 150 F over ambient. On a hot sunny day this could put IAT readings up to about 300 F. The ECU will pull timing dramatically so that IC needs to be very efficient, on the order of 70%.

After looking at the charts I could see the IC being of benefit even with the 6 PSI pulley and possibly the stock pulley. Anything to get the temperatures down in a reasonable range.

 

Ok, 7-7.5psi max is good. Can you help me figure out how much larger the pulley should be. If the stock pulley is 4.5psi, and 3/8" larger is 6psi, would 3/8' larger again, be 7.5psi +/- ?

The IC is supposed to be the most efficient air/water IC there is. The heat exchanger/pump kit comes with a fan for the exchanger so that no matter where you mount it there will be air pulled thru it. Do you think I should front mount it with or wth out the fan, or maybe mount it with the fan, in the fender well, like the ice box inlet? The exchanger itself is 10"x11"x1.5".

 

I'll work on the pulley size requirements sometime this weekend.

I was thinking about the heat exchanger and the more air to it the better. So front mount would be prefered. Did they have any information on BTU transfer of the IC at certain flow rates??

 

The exchanger is a simple oil cooler.

I found this one that looks a hella better. Go to http://www.chargedair.com/ Click on "Cyclone Typhoon" then "intercoolers" then look at the exchanger at the bottom and click on it's title. Now that's an exchanger!

 

One more thing I'd like to have is an egt warning light. Since my headers aren't installed yet, it would be easy to put a sensor in one of the headers.

 

I'll ask them. BTU transfer at flow rates of liquid going thru the IC?

 

I use to own a Typhoon and made my own kit using an oversized oil cooler.

 

We did leak down and compression test two weeks ago

COMP. LEAK DOWN
1 220 9%
2 220 9%
3 220 9%
4 220 9%
5 220 9%
6 210 11
THEN WE ADJ, VAVLES
we had time on our hands

 

Was the size increase on the pulley 3/8 inch?? From what I recall it was very close to that. If so then another 3/8 inch increase should yield about 7.5 PSI.

I just wonder about clearance and belt tensioning.

 

Actual air flow rates through the IC. They'll probably have this based on a set liquid flow rate. I just want to determine what type of efficiency we could expect.

 

Cool, thanks John. Then it looks like the standard numbers are in the range which I tested at. 220 - 230 PSI would be considered standard.

 

how much does cost to do a compression test? if the numbers are low can it be adjusted?

 

My old gauge was no where to be found so I bought a new one. It cost me $25.

If you go some where barring the removal of the SC, it should run you more than about $50 for a private shop and maybe $80 at the dealker; about an hour labor.

 

I am asking because, I had the engine rebuilt at 3,000 miles and from the that day, I felt my CLS lost power and it was not making what a stock CLS should do... with all my mods the highest WHP was 238 Uncorrected. And the hightest SAE number is 226 WHP.

If an engine is rebuilt (lower block replaced) can you possibly lose power?

The powertrain is covered to 100,000 miles by Acura. If something can be done, I can ask the dealer fix it under warranty.

 

Yes, if the engine is not assembled correctly then you can be low on compression. But be fore warned, the minimum value listed in the manual is 135 PSI. I am sure you are well above that, as such they will not touch the motor.

 

Good point. I had a hard time getting the tensioner back on with the 6# pulley. It would be easier with the next size belt. I 'll check the clearance later this eve. We might be ok.

 

220'ish is very healthy. My cylinders are in the 220-230 range as well, so things are okay.

A new motor that's well broken-in at 10.0:1 compression should be around 205-215 CR. At 10.5:1, 225-235 is what you will expect. I still remember my Civic with its 1.8 VTEC motor at 325

This is good news... these motors are pretty strong!

Good luck with the rest of the mods.

 

What were you running, 12:1 CR??

 

It was nearly 12.7:1 or something like that. I had 12.5:1 pistons and a Spoon Head Gasket which lowers it by a few more points.

Its funny because with all that, my best dyno was 204whp.. which in 1997 was very impressive on the 1.8L Integra GS-R (B18C1) motor. Nowadays... the K20A (RSX) makes 230whp with stock compression, stock heads!! Race motors (B20C's) make upwards of 265-285whp. Just shows that that it is a function of proper engineering and not blindly adding go-fast parts!!