justnspace

iTrader: (1)

its fun, you should do it.
I can whip my car around corners and have the back end swing out. Its pretty fucking cool, man.

Hacura

Man I snapped and ordered the new RV6 J-Pipe first. Had some fun installing that sucker, very happy with it though. I'll prolly get this later into the summer as I still gotta get that brake flush done too - my first brake bleed ever.

I think IHC mentioned having it on soft would compliment the Type-S front setup fairly well. Glad you're enjoying it bro.

ACON

I have one on my car and i love it!

Yes, it does make a difference. The stock sway bar I believe is 19mm. The progress one is 24mm. Huge diffrenece.

emeka206

ACON, do you have your RSB set on soft or stiff? And what kind of FSB do you have?

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to be a complete noob here and ask these 'beaten to death' questions again. I have read up and down, left and right, searched searched searched, and get conflicting info in each thread. So someone fact check me here...

Auto (04-08)
FSB (Hollow 22mm?): 51300-SEP-A11 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER $111.96
RSB (Hollow 17mm): 52300-SEP-A03 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER $32.25

6spd (04-08)
FSB (Hollow 27mm): 51300-SEP-A01 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER $111.96
RSB (Solid 20mm): 52300-SEP-A11 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER $4.71

Type-S (07-08)
FSB (Solid 27mm): 51300-SEP-A21 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER $67.48
RSB (Solid 20mm): 52300-SEP-A11 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER $34.71

Using the equation I found online...
[OutsideDiameter]^4 - [InsideDiameter]^4 = [RelativeStiffness]

I'm going to guess the hollow wall thickness is 5mm? and say...

Auto->Type-S FSB upgrade would be a 353% stiffness gain
Auto->Type-S RSB upgrade would be a 255% stiffness gain

6spd->Type-S FSB upgrade would be a 179% stiffness gain

So being a 6spd, there would be no change going to the same type-s rsb (aziners keep saying the 6spd is hollow and the type-s is solid...same part #...). And going to the type-s fsb would not be the direction I want to go, correct? Because the car already has too much oversteer? Any idea's why they used that bigger FSB on the type-s then?

Thanks,
Chad

djflex167

so according to IHC, by using a H&R 28mm FSB with Progress RSB would be the choice to balance the car out the best way?? or is it better off using the Type S FSB with Progress RSB? thanks for any input!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^From reading all of the sway bar threads and gathering all of the very good info from IHC posts, I'd say for the average (not going sideways on right turn) drivers, Progress RSB and a Type-S FSB would suffice. The extreme being HR/Progress.

I would just be happy with a 50% gain from the type-s bars, but now after finding real answers, it appears I already have the the type-s rsb. And I don't think going bigger in the front is worth while.

I hate cars

That's correct, the base 6mt rsb is solid. Putting the Type-S bar on it would increase understeer which you don't want. The Type-S compensates for the stiffer front bar with stiffer rear springs.

I hate cars

With the H&R bar in soft and the Progress in firm, there's still no way to balance it. The H&R is drastically stiffer and you would have to add much stiffer rear springs like I did to balance it back out. People will think I'm crazy but for those with the H&R front bar, we need a stiffer RSB.

Bearcat94

2007/2008

TL Base:
FSB 1.07 in. diameter; 0.20 in. wall thickness
RSB 0.72 in. diameter; 0.30 in wall thickness


2004 - 2006

Auto FSB 1.0 in. diameter / 0.18 in. wall thickness

M/T FSB 1.07 in. diameter / 0.20 in wall thickness


(solid if not listed)

http://www.hondanews.com/channels/ac...obiles/archive --> Specifications Press Release for the detail.

CaliWowie

hey....DO IT...DO IT...

I have a 5at w/ ht-2 coils, n i feel my sway bars are under par for them..so im gonna get one of ur 27mm solid fsb & the 24mm progress for my next purchase...from all the reading i've been the 27/24 is a great set up.

and for only 150...youll moss deff feel it!!

so after you DO IT...let us know how much you love it

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

im just curious how much it'll help as i have the stiffer rear sway bar alrdy(20mm) and plus i've got coilovers. how much more handling would i gain? i definitely dont want to go too much and have oversteer

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^gman, its the perfect combination.

emeka206

I think i'm going to go stiff setting on my 6mt base when i get it installed with my h&r sport springs/ koni yellows. Yay or nah?
Or do you guys think i'd be better at soft setting?
I'm not trying to drift every turn, just take the turn real well

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^play with the settings.
find which one YOU like better.

it takes all of 2 secs to switch settings.

fwiw, i have a 6mt base and had the rsb on soft. ride felt improved but like anything else, curiosity for MOAR got the best of me. I switched it to stiff and couldnt be happier

emeka206

08-TL-S

i just got the progress RSB today and can't wait to install it. can someone tell me which hole is the soft setting? i have a 08 tl-s 5at would soft setting be the best? thanks

TheDingo

The hole closest to the meat of the bar is the stiff setting. Put it on the stiff setting.

I was skeptical at the difference people reported in the handling of the car after this mod. I bought the Progress bar in the group buy, last month or whenever it was. The install is easy and the difference is really noticeable. You'll be happy you bought it.

Bearcat94

The holes toward the end make the bar longer; a longer bar is softer.

The holes nearest the middle make the bar shorter; a shorter bar is stiffer.


I've got had mine on "firm" since day and am happy (3+ years; 40,000+ miles). Just don't go really nuts into a corner and then lift the throttle abrubly mid-turn.

I hate cars

You can also mix and match holes for a "medium" setting.

08-TL-S

what do you mean by mix and match?

thanks all for the info

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

2 holes on either side.
put one on the stiff setting and the other on the soft setting...
therefore, you get a "medium" setting

08-TL-S

thanks. think i'll put it on soft setting and see how it handles. is it fairly easy to adjust from soft to stiff setting? would you need to jack the car up?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

yes. you have to lay underneath to get to the endlinks.
the endlinks come off with an allen wrench and a wrench.
I initially had it on the soft setting. changed it to the stiff setting in about 15-30 mins. fairly easy

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Just take it to the stiff side. With your better FSB I think you'll prefer the stiff setting.

08-TL-S

i presume everyone is using the stock endlinks with the progress rear sway bar?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I'm using the stock endlinks....


if you're stock ones were rusted to shit had to revert to cutting them off, then one would upgrade to the moog endlinks.

but I'll stay with stock endlinks

Skunkworks

iTrader: (6)

Will the stock endlinks suffice for a long period of time with the larger Progress rear sway bar?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I've had it on for quite a while...I've sprayed down the threads with WD40 (given, I'm not up north so no rust) and I can actually remove the 14MM nut without having to hold the allen in the middle. I can swap soft to hard setting in about 5 minutes.

Make sure to jack the back up though to take the weight off so it's easy to maneuver by hand.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^ive taken my endlinks off multiple times! and they are stock and still holding up!

I hate cars

Look at it this way, the same endlinks are used on the front with a 25mm-27mm bar stock with no issues. A 24mm rear bar won't hurt them. I'm still on the stock links with a 28mm FSB and 24mm RSB.

There's more to the picture than just swaybar stiffness. Spring rate and even shocks affect how much stress is put on the swaybars as well.

I hate cars

The key is to have both wheels even. The swaybar is a torsional spring so having one tire on the ground and one jacked up is causing the bar to react and you'll have a hell of a time getting anything apart. Adjust with both tires on the ground with no jack or jack it up so both tires are off the ground completely.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^CONCUR...that's what I was trying to say with my last statement in my last post.

I learned this the hard way when installing suspensions...used to do it one side at a time and had SUCH a bi*ch of a time removing nuts and bolts etc...then realized it's because I was loading it by putting all the weight on the other side. Anything to do with suspension, jack the car up at the front OR the back but not the sides. (aside from just adjusting your coilovers, of course).

AcuraIntegTL

I know this is an old thread, but I didn't want to open a new thread for the same topic. This is purely to help someone that is contemplating between the Progress RSB and an OE Type-S RSB.

I own a ‘08 Base TL and recently installed a ‘08 OE Type-S TL RSB. If you’ve read through this thread you know that I’ve increased the RSB from 17mm to 20mm. For the price I paid, this was definitely worth it. I don’t plan on tracking my TL, so this was a perfect upgrade for me.

Currently the Progress RSB is not too expensive, but I didn’t want to spend additional $$ to upgrade the FSB in order to ensure my car is balanced. Also, the jump from 17mm to 24mm was a bit much for me and I’m trying to keep the ride comfortable since it’s my DD. I did contemplate getting the H&R RSB that is 22mm, but seems a bit pricey compared to the Progress RSB.

Overall, I’m happy with my choice and recommend the OE Type-S RSB to anyone that’s looking for a good upgrade without spending a lot of $$, and keep the ride comfortable.

nokkieny

So your replaced just added the type-s RSB? I don't want to have to replace anything else to make sure it doesn't rip anything, which is what turned me off from using the progress RSB. Not sure exactly what was happening but people were having to weld metal that tore from using too big a bar and not upgrading the suspension properly. Also, in addition to the bar what parts are needed for the install? I assume I can use most of my old parts, but don't want to get it out and find out I am missing something, I plan on buying the end links just in case.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

you're gonna want to replace the sway bar bushings and brackets with the type-s ones. the stock ones accomodate the 17mm bar while the type s bar will be 20 mm (hence slightly fatter bar probably won't fit the stock base bar hardware too well).

i upgraded to the progress bar (set of soft/street setting) from the 6MT sway bar...i also have Aspec suspension to compliment it. all i have to say is WOW. my limiting factor right now...tires.

nokkieny

so I need part #3, #4(2), #5(2)??

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

that looks to be correst^^ and if you want the OEM end links you'll need those (just in case you need to hack off the ones on your car). PB blast them (let them sit for a day or two) and see if they come off. then put anti seize on everything hen you bolt it all up. just make sure the parts are for a type-s (like you wanted).

you might want new bolts (35) x4 as well. just a thought.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I must take being in Florida for granted, all my bolts are rust free and easy to remove. I can swap my progress bar from track to street in about 2 minutes flat.

AcuraIntegTL

52308-S3M-A00-Acura HOLDER, STABILIZER BUSH $0.86 x 2 = $1.72
52306-SEP-A11-Acura BUSH, RR. STABILIZER HOLDER $1.15 X 2 = $2.30
52300-SEP-A11-Acura SPRING, RR. STABILIZER $34.22 x 1 = $34.22