Man, the weekends sure do get backed quickly, do they not?

Looks as though this next weekend is the only forseeable weekend in which I will be able to install my HT Spec IIs any time soon...so, if you've done a coilover install yourself, please let me know if there's anything I should be aware of before the install!

I have all of the scans and will be installing these with the Ingalls rear camber kit. I have been soaking all bolts EOD to try and help busting out what 5 years and 90k miles may have caused. No need to compress springs, just so nuts and bolts!

 

The front lca/fork bolts are usually troublesome, be prepared to tear the bearing out if the bolt is seized

 

Check Big PZs Progress Thread in the photo gallery to read about my experience

 

be careful with the removal of the rear seats. it IS annoying but patience is key here. the clips are fragile so try not to break any of them and use constant, firm pressure when removing them.

otherwise pretty straightforward: make sure to torque everything to spec. old bolts are a bitch to remove, but make sure to turn the nut side of the bolt/nut assembly (its hard to tell which is which but if i remember correctly, the nut is closer to the inside of the car). If something seems too hard to turn, don't force it because you can break something, try the other side. have a rubber mallet handy to hammer in/out the bolt that holds the bottom of the suspension in place.

one more thing that i cannot stress enough. USE ANTI-SIEZE on all bolts/coilover threads/lock collars. it makes it look ugly if you do a messy job but it'll pay off later. theres nothing worse than stuck lock rings or bolts later on down the road. wait 2 weeks for everything to settle then get an alignment. if you do it too soon, your alignment will get messed up

good luck, pics when installed please! i'm sure you'll be fine, you seem very prepared!@

 

this is (i think) what i was referring to when i said to check both sides of the nut/bolt assembly. dont tear anything until you have tried both sides of this. once the nut is out use the rubber mallet to hammer the bolt out

 

Make sure the fronts are properly aligned with the "tab" in the bottom. Do NOT force the top bolts to fit the holes. If the tab is aligned properly, they'll slide right in.

You may need to put load on the suspension (both removal and install) to give the shock/spring assembly clearance to drop out/slide in.

Then don't forget to torque the top nuts with the suspension under load.


Service Manual scans here:

D-091: DIY:Front and read damper/shock spring replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fm-modulators-group-purchase-173827/

 

if its plug and play like the aspec, then you could get away with leaving the rear deck in and get the ratchet into the space with a standard socket (for the bolt in front) and deep socket (for the bolt in back). then you can avoid all the stupid little clips of the rear deck which can potentially break.

as others have said be prepared for rust and stubborn bolts.

have fun!

 

and make sure u tighten endlink/sway bar nuts/bolts TIGHTLY after ur finished to avoid annoying rattling

to adjust height after its installed... just loosen bottom locking collar and turn the threaded part of the coils (no need to loosen any bolts to adjust height)

 

common on hondas, and if the fork does BEND, it needs to be replaced not attempted to be bent back into shape

 

yeah i was going to mention that...stupid end links.

 

For the rear seats, don't completely remove the hidden bolt behind the head rests. Just unbolt halfway and lift the back seat up.

 

Whole backseat / deck has to come out wether I like it or not, DLS 0A8 subwoofer going in there

 

Got the spec II's and the ingals as well...my ingals came 2 days after i ordered em still waiting on the coils.

What springs did you get?
What made you go with the spec II's?
About were do you think your going to adjust your damping at for the initial two weeks?

 

^^the shock doesn't drop out when you unscrew it from the engine bay, it gets caught on the arms in the wheel well. put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up. when you push the lower control arm up or down you get more space to pull the shock out.

the backseat is the easiest part of the install imo. i can take one out in 15 minutes. the key is that you just have to study the scan and see where the bolts are located. that's it.

definitely have a breaker bar handy.

 

i also left my backseat bolts off in case u needa adjust anything afterwards (I still have them off after like 1k mile) Not like its difficult.. but it'll save u like 10 mins haha