KzooTL

So i have a H&R front sway bar sitting here and can't find a place to install.

I took it a local shop and he said he would need a cradle to hold something in place, he was talking 10 miles a minute..Point of story, he couldn't install it. He tried dropping the subframe (just loosening the 14x1.5mm bolts) but still didn't have the clearance. He said he could do it with the aid of a 300 part that supports something.

Local Acura dealership wants 600 for install, they also said the subframe needs to be dropped out etc..

So anyone have any experience installing a front sway bar in the TL? If so how much did you pay to have it installed. Seems like this part wasn't made to be changed out easily. Tips or tricks?

allmotorman57

you have to drop the subframe and whole engine cradle in the front of the car....no point in doing this really...the front sway bar is adequate enough for pretty much any abuse you throw at it...unless you want to induce understeer for some reason then stick with the stock front sway bar

Bearcat94

Yup, gotta drop the sub-frame. That's how it works.

IHC has a post describing his installation.

Mafyoso

iTrader: (1)

^^ Doesn't Sound hard at all, A good DIY Weekend. LOL J/K Try and find a Local Shop with Experience and see if they charge you cheaper than the Acura. I hate when all these local shops never can do shit cause they don't have the proper equipment. Also make sure they don't talk a mile a minute. They might hit you with something you didn't get the first time and F#@& Up your Ish

Bearcat94

Over the years many have decided that it's too much hassle. There are many, many posts alerting people to this.

IHC is a maniac. I am merely a wannbe shade-tree mechanic (if that), but I've got a pretty good feel for what's outta my league and this DIY is one of them.

KzooTL

Yeah i might look for another independent shop, if i can get it in for 300 bucks i'll do it, otherwise it will hit the Black Market.

I've read people don't do this mod because they think there is little to no difference in handling characteristics, but didn't read about people having install problems.

Well live an learn, Just seems to labor intensive for me with ground jacks and hand tools.

Bearcat94

Don't know if these will help or not.

I hate cars

There's a big handling difference when coupled with a 24mm rsb. The turn-in and precision of the steering along with high speed stability are increased. Body roll is nearly eliminated. It's a very worthwhile mod especially if you do the labor yourself. I wouldn't do it unless you have at least a 24mm Progress bar on stiff in the rear.

I did it on my back with a jack on the side of the street in the dark between 8PM and midnight. It just sort of happened that way and that's mostly to blame for it taking so long. You don't need to suspend the subframe with anything other than a jack at the rear. You don't drop the subframe, you just loosen it with the front 4 bolts and take the rest out completely. It won't go anywhere, trust me. There are other things holding the engine and trans in there.

It's all about twisting the swaybar properly to get it around all of the crap in the way. Be careful because the H&R instructions said to install the sticker toward the ground. It didn't make any sense but I did it anyway. I spent an hour trying to get it in like that and realized once it was in that it was upside down. Either the sticker was in the wrong place or the instructions were wrong.

A shop with a lift and light lol, it's about a 1hr job with a good mechanic, 2 hours at most with a poor/average mechanic.

Make sure to get an alignment when you're done.

I hate cars

If they have a lift already, all it takes is a jack stand or transmission jack. Any shop will have a 5' jack stand already. Then just basic hand tools. I'm sure the special tools they're talking about are for supporting the engine and trans from above but it's completely unnecessary because you're not removing the trans mounts or the subframe completely. I'm not saying the cradle support would not make the job easier by being able to drop the subfame much lower and giving much more room to get the swaybar in and out but it's not completely necessary. I have to say it would've saved a lot of cussing on my end though. I look at it this way, if I could do it in the conditions I did it in, a mechanic with a lift, light, and better tools should be able to do it easily.

abirvalg

has anyone else tried this stunt yet?

IHC how low do you think your back side dropped, i'm trying to gauge a safe travel before cooling lines and electrical wires (AKA "the other things holding the engine" ) start getting ripped apart

and another thing the four bolts on the fronts ... is that two long and two short ones on the diagram? cause it looks like only the long ones actually go through, so that would make it 2 rather than 4

i hope it makes more sense to look at the underside than at the diagram

thanks!

Chad05TL

Does anyone know if you replace the rack and pinion at the same time as the FSB, do u still needto drop the sub-frame?

Oh Sickest TL

iTrader: (3)

you don't need to drop the frame entirely, just take out a few bolts to drop it a bit to gain some clearance... i just had this done, my mechanic said it wasn't that bad.. he also replaced the subframe due to rust on my 02 type s and said my 06 TL was not nearly as hard of a job as the 02..

it didn't take him long, although he was using a hoist

Chad05TL

Thanks for replying but I don't have a hoist and I don't really want to loosen that subframe without proper tools and having to realign and possibly messing something up. I have a small 1 car garage and not much room. So again.. Is it possible to swap the fsb if I remove the rack and pinion with it.. I bet nobody knows..

I hate cars

Nobody knows because removing the rack is not the most efficient way to do it. Loosening the subframe means the car will need an alignment when you're done just like removing the rack will. There's no difference there. You don't have to worry about realigning the subframe any more than you do the rack. I did it on my back with very little lighting on the street. It's easy. Why take a chance on something that may or may not work that will be more work when theres already angood way of doing it.

Chad05TL

I know about the alignment but I also thought the engine and trans sits on that subframe.. ?? If it does then if it is shifted then it might cause some binding on the gears or axles.. Anyways.. A new rack isn't that hard to replace.. I did it on a camaro once. Plus this car needs both to be replaced anyway. So if it was doable without lowering the subframe then I would do it myself. Otherwise it might have to wait until I get a bigger garage..

I hate cars

I doubt anyone has done the two together.

It's perfectly fine to do it the way everyone else has always done it and without problems by dropping the subframe. It will make it easier to do the rack too. You're only loweing it 6" toward the rear. The front two bolts never come out. An alignment shop will shift the subframe around when needed anyway so once you get it aligned you can rest assured the subframe is in proper alignment.

Chad05TL

I just saw this on YouTube. They removed the rack but I was also interested in dropping the subframe. That rack and pinion looks like a bear to remove. Even after he got it all disconnected it didn't just slide right out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjBlfbLiCWw