I'm getting these in gold and I been stalking DeathMetal as well cause I want the concavity and a 235 tire but worried about the front.

I don't want to go with different offsets... boo!

 

Man, deciding what setup to get is much harder than I thought HELP!!!!

 

If your really worried about fitment and the ability to easily rotate then just do 18x8.75 +35 all the way around, but it wont have much concavity. You can then use spacers to play with the offset if your unhappy with fitment.

If I end up getting these, Ill go with the extreme 18x8.75 +20 in front and 18x9.75 +20 in the rear, they will be perfectly flush, will need a good stretch and a fender roll, but should give a really concave appearance.

 

Called today to confirm my order, look like mid/late April for me, so install in late April / early may.

FML

 

^weakkk

whats ur final decision? 18x8.75 +20? with 245/40?

 

I'm just wondering if it will look weird if I go with the lower offset in the rear and have rear looking more concave than the front.

Edit: I am not worried about being able to rotate tires.

 

It will look very agressive, but there is no point other than aesthetics...setups such as this are, IMHO, kinda silly on an FWD...but it will look killer.

 

^^ Agreed, this is a setup for looks, not performance. Having a lower offset (or wider rim) in the rear will give a more RWD appearance, which looks killer, but does nothing for performance in a FWD car that is prone to understeer.

 

It is mainly for looks, if I was going for performance I think I would go with different wheels.

 

DeathMetal is going with the +20 and 235 tires and i think he will be pulling/rolling the fenders.

I'm jealous he will be getting his in 3 weeks. Seems like a long time, but it can fly by pretty quick.

I'm still on the fence cause i don't want to pull the fenders, may look weird when i got back to Stock to sell the car.

 

why would you need to pull the fenders unless you wanna go with 9.75 +20. Rolling is unnoticeable and that's all you would have to do with the 8.75+20

 

Myron,

So for the fronts there won't be any issues with going 18x8.75 with a +20 offset? That is the only piece I'm worried about, i know the rears will fit with some minor rolling but was unsure about the fronts.

 

I believe you may have to run stretched tires or roll fenders in the front for that offset to fit. The rear should work without mods. I'll let Myron chime in as he seems to have a good grasp of the fitment thing

 

XXR 527 18x8.75 Chromium Black 5-100/5-114.3
Nexen N3000 215/35-18 Tires

so this is what im going with all around... this will be fine? maybe fender roll? i want to get it right before i go and spend the money haha.

and are these gonna be concave like the pics?
im on my 2 or 3rd perch on my supercup kit and i may want to go a little lower.

sorry for all questions im just plain stoooopid when it comes to offsets and these will be my first new rims for the tl wanna get it right

 

If you get +20 they will be pretty concave, but I believe the wheels in the picture are 9.75 width which adds some extra depth.

215/35 is a bit skinny and short, try a 225/40, that should be good enough, and you will need to roll your fenders if your that low

 

Nexen N3000 225/40-18 Tires
it is then! sweet now i need to find a shop that can roll my fenders

 

These rims are quite nice looking. Can't wait to see pics on the TL.

 

You didn't list your offset. et35 will only feature a very minor level of concavity...but very little, if any, fender work.


Dude, 215/35? Have you ever seen just how this a tire this is?

With all due respect, the only reason I can imagine you're choosing this tire/size is due to budgetary constraints, I really would like to encourage you with getting something that will offer a better level of protection and ride quality.

 

yea i decided to go with the 225/40

 

Pics of 18x8.75 +20 on a civic.

 

Thanks for the pictures.

I wish the 2nd one was clearer to get an idea on the concavity of it. Any idea what the tire size is on it TL Dude?

 

Damn, just a smidge on the concave side at et20...et35 has got to be flat.

 

215/40/18 with some crazy strech that I wouldnt try to do.
That's the same thing I said, maybe I should man up and go et20 all around like you

 

or spokes sticking out past the edge of the wheel eeewwwwwww

 

Dang... I think I'm going to have to rock the +20 offset for these and just make it fit...maybe even go with the 225 tires...

 

Did anyone else preorder?

 

Maybe I should tell them to hold off on shipping my order so I can see the fitment you guys are gonna have. I wanna go +20 all around but my current tires are 245/40/18 and they have plenty of life so I dont plan on getting new tires.

 

If you are willing to go all the way, then i can't see why 245 won't work. If you roll and pull the fenders. Or just go for the staggered setup and roll the rears only.

 

Ehhhhhh...I don't see this working. I've yet to see even some of the most agressive fits on here pull something like that off


...but there are always firsts for everything

 

It's hard to tell the concavity from that angle with the dark rims. Compared to that pic my aspec rims look just as concave. Need a better pic.

 

Yea but TL dude says he has a mild 1.3" inch drop, most of the people with the aggressive setups are lowered 2"+ and rocking a 9.5 with low offsets...but don't take my word for it... I've never lowered the car or gone that aggressive...bforbrian and those guys have a huge thread on crazy low offsets which make me drool.

 

After my own missions with rubbing and getting flushness...I can say I've got some info that might be useful.

I think a 235/40 or 225/40
You have a lot to consider though...
1) read reviews on tires...I can tell you that the edge of a hankook evo V12 was (same size, 235/35/19) was considerably thinner at the edge of the tire and offered no rubbing in comparison to the falken fk452 I have on there now.
2) start off with no camber kit...negative camber will give you the most clearance...I actually had to add a little camber to my rear to keep from rubbing with 4 people in the car.
3) adjusting the height will matter a lot, especially since you got F/F and preload is separate from height adjustment...so technically you can slam it and give yourself a little more preload (although forget aforementioned comfort!) so that it doesn't "give" too much when going over bumps.

Bi, the local West Palm beach Honda guy that has fender rolling experience is running a 19 by 9.5 +22 all around. He's on Form and Function too with camber kits. I think he's running a 225/35/19 tire.

Me, as you probably know...19x9 with a 235/35/19 running -1 front camber/-1.5 rear camber and a +35 front and +25 rear (achieved with 20MM spacer...which kinda sucks now that I think of the extra 20mils of concavity I could have run!) I have very mild rubbing on extreme cornering (life offramp at 80mph). But I can have 3 or 4 full grown men in the car. The only time I have 4 people normally is going out with my fiance and her 110 pound friend and my good friend.



Still, looking at the car sometimes I think, how the fuck am I able to turn without ripping my fenders. Baffles me...now that I've got some flushness though...I realize how important it is in the look of the car.

PS...great job having the balls to do it DM...as with everything, you're the man and I know you'll do it right. Love the look...concave is the 8" lip of the new millenium IMO.

So...I can sum up this whole post by saying...you can DEFINITELY make this work. Don't underestimate your tires size though...unless you want to poke but have to leave yourself an inch of space between tire and fender. But to me, that defeats the purpose!

 

I'm dropped more than 2 inches, see avatar. My question is, will the 18x8.75 et20 not fit the rear with the 245 tires? Falken 912 to be exact

 

Also, forgot, got the rears rolled...
The fronts the guy started, but I ended up using a heat gun myself and jacking the car up enough to give leverage for a hammer handle and the tire...I heat it and then rolled with that...the front has a tab where the fender meets to forward part of the fender and it is too rigid to hammer/roll...for that I carfefully dremeled a relief cut into it and bent it flat. No harm no foul...a little touchup paint (to keep from any bare metal being exposed) and I was good to go.

Also drive around a little...some plastic will shred itself off...and whatever part of the fender having the clearance issue will be missing paint. Then you know where you need to work

Good luck...PM me with ideas/questions.

PS...what a fuckin deal btw...aggressive offset nice lookin wheels for a grand WITH tires. That's amazing IMO.
J.

Another couple that give a good idea of how it sits.

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence, dude, I'm planning on rolling the fenders once the wheels FINALLY arrive and are being powdercoated...I'm sure I'll be hitting you up on PM for some info on the rolling before I get moving on it. I'm pretty confident the fit can be done, no doubt this is going to look killer once it's all said and done.

Looking to install the coilovers this weekend, wish me luck!!!

 

You don't need luck...
you have intelligence and drive.

I will give you this tidbit...always do the fronts together and rears together. Doing one side at a time puts weird stress on the bolts/nuts you are trying to remove makes them really hard to remove. Only took me like 3 cars to figure that out.

J.

 

I was contemplating on getting these since their sneak peak in December damn nice wheels.

As for the offset....I doubt it makes a difference between concavity. I think all it is is just more back padding but the face stays the same. I know a few wheel companies are that way. I bought 3 wheels, all which my friends with a TL had. However I purchased them in lower offset hoping for a deeper sink face. They got +35ish and I did +20, everything was the exact same minus the PCD being thicker.

I am just saying this from experience and just a thought....that there may only be two different faces....the 8.75 and 9.75....and offset only determines the back padding in case it doesn't clear BBK or just for those who want more aggressive

can't wait to see these on a TL though =]

 

That actually makes sense...
Congrats on the COTM btw!
I know that works definitely change the amount of concavity from when i was shopping but I see the point...they figure the lower offset is for your BBK's...Well...even if it's the same face...sitting a little further out will look great I think.

 

Hmm... I wonder if there is a way to check, cause if there is no difference in concavity between the offsets, then it would be better to get the +35 and use spacers as needed to make it work?

 

That is true...then you can deal with rub and fixing it and the mission, or just have them sit a little bit in. +35 still looks great...that and a 10MM spacer and you'd be golden.