D-042: 3G Front and Rear extended stud install

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Old 03-30-2012, 03:39 AM
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So I put 8mm spacers in the rear on stock studs and when I tried to remove the lugnuts it felt so tight like they were going to pop. I am a DIY guy but I don't have air tools. There is a guy down the street that will do both sides for $60 so I think I will suck it up and pay him to do it since if I do the work myself I will still have to take it somewhere to get pressed in.
Old 03-30-2012, 06:38 AM
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Why not save yourself $40 and just slide him a cool 20 spot just for pressing the studs in? The rest of it is VERY doable for you. Or pay him 60 and call it a day, if you trust him.

IF YOU TRUST HIM!
Otherwise, do it yourself, buddy!

And please let us know the outcome of getting the rear lugs off. I have to say, with very little threads holding it on, it's strange to me that it would be that hard to get off.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:28 AM
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Did you use the impact only on the studs? Breaker bar only on the 32mm bolt? I'm thinking the studs on there might be tight because they are stripped and about to pop. I'm just worried I won't be able to get it off completely to take to the shop and then my car will be stuck @ home with broken studs.
Old 03-30-2012, 08:45 AM
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Also is there any specific way to put them back in? Would holding the hub in a vice and then banging the studs back in the hub work?
Old 03-30-2012, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by TLDude876
Also is there any specific way to put them back in? Would holding the hub in a vice and then banging the studs back in the hub work?
The best way is to put the hub in a press and press them in
This is how they do it OEM
Old 03-30-2012, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by max 1.6
The best way is to put the hub in a press and press them in
This is how they do it OEM
More than likely a machine shop huh?
Old 03-30-2012, 11:53 AM
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I used the breaker bar on the 32MM nut and only that...if you bend that little tab out, once you break it loose it'll be very easy to unscrew.

I used the impact to pull the studs in. I don't have access to a press so I opted for the pull in method (not to be confused with the "pull out method" which is not considered 100% effective against pregnancy). Worked just fine for me...also, your knurls might not be as tight as mine were...the fronts went in a LOT easier for some reason.

J.
Old 03-30-2012, 12:52 PM
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Studs being delivered today and I found a shop that will remove the old ones and press the new ones in for $20. Now I just need to find someone to take me in the morning since I will be doing the work at home and just bringing the hubs to the shop.

I hope the rotor screws behave themselves

Last edited by TLDude876; 03-30-2012 at 12:55 PM.
Old 03-30-2012, 01:01 PM
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Hit them with some penetrating lube, buddy...what I've found is that the part that REALLY makes it seize up is the underside of the screw head...the threads too, but the underside of the screw head is the part that seems to get stuck. I know this cause I removed and had to do the sledgehammer and socket extension thing again a week later. When I put a dab of antiseize on there, they were fine 2 months later.

J.
Old 03-30-2012, 09:36 PM
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I fuckin hate rotor screws
Old 03-30-2012, 11:40 PM
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An impact driver worked on the front, but the rear required drilling.
Old 03-31-2012, 07:40 AM
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Well, I'm no expert on rotor screws but I can only imagine! Mine were tough and I'm in friggin Florida, no snow, no salt, no sand...
Old 03-31-2012, 12:43 PM
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^^^TLDUDE is in San Antonio/Houston....so he wont have salt and ice as well....

bro what i usually do is take it in to firestone for a balance and alignment and tell the tech to pop those screws out for me

saves a ton of complications....
Old 03-31-2012, 01:20 PM
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Day from hell

I went to my buddy's shop and he got them out for me. Drove to the machine and asked if I could pull out the hubs in the parking lot and he said no due to insurance policy. I was determined not to pay labor for this so I pulled to the side street and began tearing it down. Hallway through I realize I am in a ghetto area right by a chruch where they are handing out free food . Took forever to get one rotor off but I did. Got studs in and began to re install everything. Got done with one side then proceeded to the next only to find out the studs dont line up. Had to take back in the shop to get it right. Got everything and was so happy to get out of that area then I locked the trunk with my keys inside . Had to call a friend from work. Then I noticed I am parked right in front of a fire hydrant. She picks me up, I drop her off at work, go to my apt office for an extra key, get my spare key and rush back to the car just to move it from the hydrant. Moved it, went to pick up my friend then she took me back to the car. Finally, then with the new wheels I have vibrations It never ends
Old 03-31-2012, 01:46 PM
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you need to repost when you catch your breath brothaaa !!!

EDIT: none the less you had a crazy day eh....
Old 03-31-2012, 05:35 PM
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...this sounds like those situations where you wish you had just paid the dude $60. I'm sorry I pushed you to do this yourself, man...looks like it caused quite the headache(s).

BUT, you got it done!
So you had zero vibrations and now you have vibrations?!?! Doing the rears shouldn't add vibrations that you feel. Are your spacers hubcentric that you're trying to use? If you ended up stacking 8 and then a 3MM spacer, BURY your hub center and your rim will have to use the conical lugs to help center when torquing down. If that's the case, I'd recommend you lose 1MM and get a 10MM hubcentric spacer.

J.
Old 03-31-2012, 05:39 PM
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Or just have custom spacers made

I have mine made for $165 (all four). They are both hub and wheel centric. Took about a week to get them made.
Old 03-31-2012, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
...this sounds like those situations where you wish you had just paid the dude $60. I'm sorry I pushed you to do this yourself, man...looks like it caused quite the headache(s).

BUT, you got it done!
So you had zero vibrations and now you have vibrations?!?! Doing the rears shouldn't add vibrations that you feel. Are your spacers hubcentric that you're trying to use? If you ended up stacking 8 and then a 3MM spacer, BURY your hub center and your rim will have to use the conical lugs to help center when torquing down. If that's the case, I'd recommend you lose 1MM and get a 10MM hubcentric spacer.

J.
Haha no worries. It would kill me to pay $80 for an hr labor knowing I can do it myself. Nothing comes easy and I did get it done after all. My vibrations are up front, I added a 20 mm spacer I bought off the BM. Think I might re check everything then try to road force balance them. Yes I get frustrated but I have to put in work. The rears still have 8 and I think I want to leave it like that. Hopefully I reduce the amount of camber and it will sit a lil better.
Originally Posted by swoosh


you need to repost when you catch your breath brothaaa !!!

EDIT: none the less you had a crazy day eh....

Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Or just have custom spacers made

I have mine made for $165 (all four). They are both hub and wheel centric. Took about a week to get them made.
I might look into that if I can get rid of the issue. Where did you get them?
Old 03-31-2012, 07:18 PM
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http://www.motorsport-tech.com

The price depends on the thickness of the spacer btw.
Old 03-31-2012, 09:10 PM
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the thicker it is, you pay more? that's how it is in a male strip club too...

Wait, you did the extended stud swap on the rear but didn't touch the front and you have a 20MM v2 spacer up front and you NOW got vibration!?!? i'm confused.

J.
Old 03-31-2012, 09:22 PM
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^
Old 03-31-2012, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
the thicker it is, you pay more? that's how it is in a male strip club too...

Wait, you did the extended stud swap on the rear but didn't touch the front and you have a 20MM v2 spacer up front and you NOW got vibration!?!? i'm confused.

J.
Installed those 20mm spacers today as well. Doubt it has nothing to do the rear.
Old 03-31-2012, 11:14 PM
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Doubt it has anything...
Seriously though...Hmmm...and the 20MM is hubcentric?! There is no reason it should/would introduce any vibrations!
Old 04-01-2012, 10:51 AM
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Oh and one more thing. That section on the 32mm that you haver to pry up didn't line up perfectly when I reinstalled. Is that an issue? I did torque it to abt 135 lb ft
Old 04-01-2012, 11:45 AM
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No, torque value is more important than lining that up. BUT, you were supposed to do 134...I wouldn't drive the car like that now you friggin beast.
Old 04-01-2012, 12:17 PM
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Your reading on the last page said 135.5

Edit: Posting from Justin's account
Old 04-01-2012, 04:06 PM
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AZ slumber party!?!?
That's cause I'm a beast too...just giving you a hard time!
J.
Old 04-01-2012, 04:13 PM
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Haha i came into the city to sell my old wheels. Just hanging out. I did take the wheels off and double check everything. Now i just need to fix the front vibrations and paint the wheels. Thanks again for the write up man
Old 04-02-2012, 12:47 PM
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so I went to town this weekend to replace one of my broken wheel studs.

Lets just say that rotor screw is a bitch to take off. I was able to get one off but looks like the previous owner had a hard time the other screw. It's basically shot to shit. It's so flat, it doesnt even look as if there is a screw there.

Nevertheless, I was able to get my broken bolt out and insert a new one without removing the rotor or cutting the brake shield.

Instead of cutting I was able to bend back part of the shield and get the new bolt right in. Definitely had to shave the side of the bolt down a bit.
Old 04-02-2012, 01:07 PM
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^ I just left my screws out. They are pointless and worthless IMO
Old 04-02-2012, 01:17 PM
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^^^

i have dumped those screws 80K miles back LOL
Old 05-23-2012, 10:29 PM
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Inserted into the 3G Garage.
Old 10-02-2012, 02:55 AM
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I ended up grinding out little bit of the knuckle? or CV housing.................... now my car's gonna fall apart and i'm gonna die right..?

it looked VERY thick,,,,,,, so...............
Old 10-02-2012, 04:09 AM
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:27 AM
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LOL...hey, you grind one or the other, I guess with grinding that down I'd more worried about throwing off the perfect rotational balance and maybe causing a wobble...but I'm sure that won't be the case. I'm sure you'll be fine.

J.
Old 10-02-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
LOL...hey, you grind one or the other, I guess with grinding that down I'd more worried about throwing off the perfect rotational balance and maybe causing a wobble...but I'm sure that won't be the case. I'm sure you'll be fine.

J.

well the part i ended up grinding was non-spinning part that can only be seen with the rotor removed, so i just felt bad for the shiny metal so i sprayed rubber undercoating and put everything back together.... oh well they're metal so they'll stretch before they snap right? i'll get back here if it breaks down
Old 10-02-2012, 09:57 PM
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You sound like you know exactly what you're doing...I'm sure it'll be fine.
I kinda wish I had thought to do that instead of wasting time grinding every dang stud.
Old 10-02-2012, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
You sound like you know exactly what you're doing...I'm sure it'll be fine.
I kinda wish I had thought to do that instead of wasting time grinding every dang stud.
so as of now according to acurazine i will die 50% lol

i just thought, if i need to replace any more inthe future, it wasn't my grinder so i wanted to mod the car to be able to change it
Old 10-03-2012, 08:23 AM
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Good thinking...well, my grinder was $9.99 from harbor freight so I have all the ability in the world to grind sh*t!
Old 03-31-2013, 06:05 PM
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Thanks OP for the informative diy. I just did my rears today. It went pretty easy and I didn't need to remove the hub. I detached one side of the e-brake pads and move it out of the way then hammered out and replaced one stud at a time. I used 1.5" round wood dowel to wedge between two studs and the ground. This allowed me to tighten or suck in the new studs with a breaker bar.



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