swoosh

iTrader: (5)

We need to 3G garage this bish !!!

94eg!

Genius. Would have saved me some seriously aching muscles.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Air FTMFW

I used the ARPs as well, I wouldnt have been able to press them in without the impact wrench.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks fellas...
Honestly, with the first side, it took a solid minute of hitting them to pull all the way in...and that was at 150psi in the tank and my earthquake impact with dual hammers hitting at 650 ft/lb on full torque. I think I may have been able to snap off the stud if I had been trying to do it by hand!


J.

Swoosh, thanks man...maybe it'll make it's way in there. I created a separate "REAR" extended thread install thread, but maybe mods can just change the title of this one and put it in there. I'm SURE there are many people that would love to know they could put in extended studs themselves and then benefit from buying cheaper hubcentric type 1 spacers.

94, dude, coming from you, this was a real compliment...I can tell from your posts you're a seasoned car wrenching guy. Funny, when I told my fiancee that the 2nd side I was putting some "stuff" on it to help the metal squeeze into the metal she was like "duh...it's metal on metal, you needed something to lubricate it as it pulled through". I kinda felt dumb...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

dude just PM Steven Bell for a title change and putting this in the 3G Garage.....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's a great idea, I sure will.

Thanks, man!

J.

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

And I'm off to buy these studs

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Are you now!?!? I thought your wheels were already sitting pretty flush?!!?

Honestly, these fit the bill for me...figured if I was going on the mission of removing one semi stripped stud, I might as well get 40MM extended studs on the car all the way around (that's 40MM of THREADING, good for up to 10MM spacer AND can still run oem lug nuts on your wheels with no spacer on there...it clears, I test fit it). Otherwise, if you go with longer 45 or 50 (which are good for up to 20MM V1 spacers) you will be stuck with using open ended lugs indefinitely.

J.

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

^How about 11m spacer? I already have an 8mm, thinking of buying an additional 3mm? What's the thread difference between the new studs and oem?

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Great job Jeremy. Title changed!

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

Nvm, you mentioned it was 10 to 15 mm longer on the previous page.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Im actually pissed that I got the really long lug studs (Im being very careful with my words here ). I had the Project Kics R26 lug nuts and they just looked stupid, so I decided to get the R40 Revos, but they have a little lip on the inside (where the cap sits) and the lug stud was hitting that before I could tighten down the lug nuts

So I either have to live with the R26s, carefully cut the lug studs down to size, or get shorter studs.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^well, look on the bright side...YOUR AVATAR. I love her.
Cutting them down will be tough, man...but doable, but you'll probably have to use a dremel to cut a groove back into the kinda lead the first thread of the lug back onto the stud. I've tried and it's very difficult. Sorry to hear that...If it makes you feel any better...it cost me $200 to have 4 of my brand new closed ended work lugs drilled out to get my rims off when I tried to torque them down on the original studs that were 5mm longer!




Stephen, thanks much, man!

94eg!

Don't feel dumb. Women are exceptionally good at giving the best advice in the world....AFTER THE FACT. Prepare yourself for a lifetime of this.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Ouch, I think Id cry if I had to do that.

Luckily the ARP lug studs dont have threads on the last ~5mm or so, so if I cut that off, that should be just enough to get the new lug nuts on without having to clean up the threads

Im also planning on using my air powered cut off wheel to do it. Id probably go through about 20 Dremel discs per wheel.



More good advice - never mention that particular bit of advice to your wife

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the advice fellas, ain't that the figgin truth!

oh yeah, if it's not threaded, that'll be a breeze to cut off the end!

94eg!

Yeah, that round nub on the end of the ARP studs really freaked me out. I had closed ended lug nuts and I realized well after I had instaled them and replaced the wheel bearing that it might interfere. Fortunately they know what they're doing "on these stock length studs" and they fit just right...

Here's a pic (Civic/Integra knuckle) from my DIY FWD wheel bearing replacement thread. This pic is with the screw-press ready to pull the hub into the new bearing (bearing is already in the knuckle): http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2984426



BTW: Don't hesitate too much in giving your wife/girlfriend a little shit. It actually does make for a healthy relationship.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

See, now THAT looks like a PITA...I honestly wouldn't have even attempted the front one for fear of having to get a knew bearing in there and not having a press. Then this thread becomes a little less DIY, if you know what I mean!

Yeah, I learned the hard way...extended studs and soft compound used to make expensive lugs are a SUPER bad combo.

Lucky for me, after paying the 200 bucks to have them drilled out, I realized the guy had missed the jack point on one side and dented the under carriage...took a picture and went back to the shop (Tire Kingdom) and they refunded me 115 bucks. Felt better, at least.

94eg!

Actually, Once I finally broke down and bought that tool from Harbor Freight, it was really easy. If you had an impact, it would be even easier. You don't even have to remove the knuckle from the car to do it. Screw press is really cool.

I was doing that because I bought a front hub/brake swap for my Civic and it had two bad studs. I didn't realize you couldn't just knock them out when I bought it. But since everything was in such good shape (and it was a half off sale at pic-a-part), I couldn't pass it up. Ended up cost 25% less than my rear disc swap even after buying a new wheel bearing.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Wow...see, wrenching on a budget...that's what I like to see.
I swear, i still have a high school mentality where i COULDN'T afford to pay someone so I learned myself...NOW, I can pay someone, but most of the time I am disappointed with the outcome...either something isn't done right, or they break something else AND I paid for it.

Like with everything, once you do it yourself...it's not a big deal anymore.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ no one will EVER treat and work on your car with the same love and devotion like you (generic term) do....

many people just dont give a fawk....and wanna finish the work quick so they can move on to the next car.....

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

To most mechanics, its just a job. The quicker they get finished with it, the quicker they can move on to another.

DIY FTMFW

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

All day long, totally agree!
It's a shame, man...but I guess cause I don't HAVE to do it and it's a hobby so I don't take pride in it...I always think...WTF, why don't these people take any PRIDE in their work. Make sure to balance properly...put valve stems caps back on...wipe down your greasy palm prints, CMON...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Jer the only people who take pride in their work is who own the shop (like a family business)....that also only 30% of them do it right and take their time....

thats why no matter where my car is (Firestone for a balance/alignment or the dealer for a Timing belt job)....i am in the bay looking over their shoulder.....other than those 2 things, i can proudly say EVERYTHING and EVERYMOD is done by me

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yep, yep...when allowed, I do the same. I trust the guys at the Acura near me...they are all cool techs that actually love the cars they work on. Especially if it's modded.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ i hope they dont go on joy rides

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

ma sh*t ain't fast, brother...remember, i don't know engine mods!!!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Whenever I need tires mounted I take my wheels off the car (I wont let anyone use a fucking impact wrench on my lug nuts) and bring them up to the only shop I trust for that. There are two people there that touch my wheels. The shop owner and one of the guys that he trusts. The first few times I showed up there the owner told me flat out that he was going the work because he couldnt afford to replace one of my wheels if they got damaged.

The only other thing I let them do is an alignment, and I never let my car out of my sight. I always tell them that the clutch is stiff and that I am more then willing to drive into the bay. I cringed when I saw someone stall it, then ride the clutch out once.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok, you guys are making me feel normal but yeah, +1 on the NO impact gun on my lugs...especially now with the work lugs!

J.

What kinda rims are they?

max 1.6

Guys,
You thought about stretching the stud? The way you reinstall the extended stud is really dangerous. I learned that because I also did it that way once and lost a wheel. Mine weren't ARP studs.
When you are installing the new studs, you are pulling on them with the impact wrench and they were not designed to be pulled that way. Same reason why you don't want to overtorque a wheel with an impact wrench.

It might work but how long? Just my 2cents

94eg!

Great point. Probably better to use a C-clamp and a socket to press the stud in (instead of pulling it in). Let your impact or ratchet/breaker loose on the C-clamp and the stud won't have to be over-stretched.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hadn't thought of that either...but honestly, I think the tolerances are pretty tight on the threading for 12 x 1.5 because when you have any variation in that you notice it immediately with the lug nuts. If that's the case, then you'd notice if you "pulled" your stud and made it skinnier and affected the thread pitch. Does that make sense?

Plus, to be honest, you are hitting them with the impact and they are GOING...so what do you think would happen first? The stud would go INTO the knurl socket FIRST and THEN you might stretch metal. It's tight, but it IS going in...(same reason why you can apply this massive amount of torque on a stud that normally will break under much less torque once it's fixed in one place...is that while you're pulling it in it is giving and MOVING not staying stagnant and being damaged). Does that make sense?

max 1.6

It does make sense but when you are pulling, the part that tend to extend is the part where you have your washers. That way you will never experience bad threads because you wheel lugs doesn't screw on this part.
You maybe dont see it with your eyes but damage can occur. I'm only telling you this for security purposes and because I had a bad experience.
I was on a race track, if you are only doing highway and these are ARP studs you will probably be fine. I wont do that this way again.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, definitely wasn't trying to blow off your experience or warning. It's good to know because I've never even thought about it.

I don't track or anything but will keep it in mind. The front lugs, I will say, I was able to pull them in with my little makita cordless impact which hits with only 108 ft/lb torque and they went in rather easily and smoothly. I was more afraid of knocking the bearing out if I had tried hammering from the back end. Maybe a c clamp could have worked though.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

A few powdercoated RonJons, Works, SSRs.....

I usually get new wheels when I need tires, so they would have just come out of powdercoat/paint when I bring them to them

Good advice. If I had an air hammer, I probably wouldve pushed them in instead of pulling, but it is what it is. I did run a set of open ended lugs all the way down and didnt have any issues with the threads.

The ARPs are stronger then factory, so that might have something to do with it.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I have an air hammer, just didn't think to do it, and to be honest, with the amount of torque it took to pull in, it would have been SUPER hard to keep the hammer centered on the stud head and hold the whole hub assembly too.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Well, if I were to do it with an air hammer, I wouldve pulled the hub out and replaced the bearings while I was at it. So, the hub would be secured and not just spinning on the knuckle while I tried to push the studs in.

Maybe next time

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

True, I guess in this instance, I'm perfectly fine with how things went, I don't think I'll have any problems, although always good to KNOW the possibilities.

J.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

so what are we talking about now ???

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)