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Since the Aspec rims are 18s and possibly weigh a little more than the 17" base rims, wouldn't the base TL be a little bit faster than an Aspec package TL? Just wondering why online it's posted that the Aspec pulls a 14.25 in a 1/4 and the base a little bit slower.
first, where did you get your source that the aspec did the quarter faster?
IIRC, the only thing the aspec did better was around a track.
this was due to the aspec kit having less drag coefficient, or more? which ever number is the better drag coefficient
Just was wondering because I haven't been looking at 18" rims to avoid getting heavier wheels
if that's all you wanted, just weigh the two wheels and subtract the difference.. .
OEM wheels are gonna be heavy, clockin at 32-38lbs...add a tire...you're looking at ~50lbs per corner.
The 3rd gen TL is starting to show it's age. 1/4 posted times are great, but also done when these things are new. Not many 3rd gen TL's can nail 14.2 in stock form. The A-spec package has been know to make the TL a bit slower. The A-spec wheels are slightly heavier than the base model wheels. The 3rd gen TL is slow to what's out there now, so I wouldn't worry so much about 1/4 times and if A-spec wheels will slow the TL down. Unless you drop some serious $$$ to make the TL quicker..
if that's all you wanted, just weigh the two wheels and subtract the difference.. .
OEM wheels are gonna be heavy, clockin at 32-38lbs...add a tire...you're looking at ~50lbs per corner.
I have one of the industry's lightest weight wheels but at 18 inches and it didnt cut as much weight as I thought it would.
I'm rockin TE37's and they only shaved like 2 lbs...although i'm running 18x9.5, so there is a lot of aluminium there
with tires, it;s still something like 50lbs per corner
I have one of the industry's lightest weight wheels but at 18 inches and it didnt cut as much weight as I thought it would.
I'm rockin TE37's and they only shaved like 2 lbs...although i'm running 18x9.5, so there is a lot of aluminium there
with tires, it;s still something like 50lbs per corner
and that's where the looks vs function balance comes in. If someone wants to be the fastest they can, they should stick to lightweight 17s, without a super wide barrel. But then they're paying a lot to look like ass, which not many people want. So it becomes the balancing game. I think the fact you were able to move up an inch in diameter and 1.5" in width, while still saving wheel weight, you're pretty golden.
however, as you already alluded to- with bigger wheels, come bigger tires. And that can make a huge difference per corner, especially if your wheels are wider than before. For ultimate weight savings, a guy should stick to a forged 17x8 wheel... But who wants to do that?
Are they forged? inthought the majority of Advans are cast.
as spaceman pointed out, he's got one of the lightest wheels on the market and he only shaved 2lbs off per corner. granted, his barrel is 0.5" wider than yours, but the barrel isn't nearly as heavy as the rest of the wheel.
Also, have you rode on your OEM wheels since? My "18 enkeis are lighter than the 17" OEM wheels... But the wider tire needed on them
negates much, if not all the weight savings. And because of the additional width of my enkeis, when I put the stock wheels on for the winter, the car feels waaaay lighter on its feet. There's no way a wider wheel feels as responsive as a skinnier one.
if that's all you wanted, just weigh the two wheels and subtract the difference.. .
OEM wheels are gonna be heavy, clockin at 32-38lbs...add a tire...you're looking at ~50lbs per corner.
Factory wheels 32 lbs without tires? I thought I read that they were 24lbs? I found some 17" wheels online that are only 20.8 lbs so that should be my best bet then
i mean, even if i did get the weights wrong... it still is about 50lbs per corner with tires...
I agree with TACO, 17's with concerns about weight will look like ass.
it's a balancing act of looking good and lower weight
but like El Jeffe said....shaving 2lbs per corner is still a big difference
thus why asking questions about personal modding is hard...because everything is PERSONAL.
I have my own goals...Taco has his own goals, El Jeffe has his own goals...
YOU have your own goals....
so the best bet is to weigh them yourself. and choose accordingly to your goals.
Last edited by justnspace; Feb 7, 2017 at 09:55 AM.
I agree... shedding just a few pounds at the drive wheels makes a huge difference overall. I was being thrown off by El Jeffe saying his new wheels were "paper light"... it's still like 45 pounds per corner
right, we can argue about semantics and definitions and each other's goals...
BUTT at the end of the day, it's personal and what you do WILL be different than what any of us do. that's the joy of being an individual! (with a brain)
Believe me, OP...at one point and time..I wanted to be the fastest 6MT TL in Houston.
I took out a bunch of dead weight and modded the car with go fast goodies.
the thing is, there will always be some one faster than you.
after my dreams were smashed i decided that putting ALL my effort into the car was not something i wanted to do any more.
She's a looker and she does what I ask, when I ask. that's all I need from the TL!!
i ended up purchasing 18x9.5 +30 Work emotion CR Kiwani Ultimates with 245/40/18 perrelli tires and noticed a little difference. Previously my car had base 17" oem wheels with 235/45/17 continental tires. My overall experience of my newer wheels is that my car drives a little different now. Picking up my Kiwamis did feel lighter than my base wheels and the car does drive differently. I wouldn't say it's faster it's more of a weird feeling. My kiwamis are 22 pounds and the base are apparently 25 pounds. I did notice now my wheels will skirt in first gear when vtec engages. Honestly I wish I took my car to the track before then after to see the difference.