Does anyone have this issue?
Lute Riley Honda said My rear main seal was leaking oil. But I see no oil drips on the floor, and It sits in the same place in my apartment garage for 6 months.
They want $2000 plus an alignment Is it worth it?? How long can it go?

 

Lute Riley also said this these are STARTING to leak. haha

 

Oil is cheap, let'er ride until you either need a transmission replacement, or a clutch job.

 

smart. agreed.
And I only have 113k miles and I changed the oil every 3500 miles since 35k miles.
I also have a new pvc valve like over a year ago.. But even when I replaced the original, I dont think it was clogged. I said this becuase IHC said a clogged pvc can cause a build up of pressure in the crankcase / block

 

My main seal started leaking a couple months after my 105k service was done. It left one drip on the garage floor per month. I put a piece of cardboard down to catch that. Even my local dealer that told me it was leaking said not to worry about it until my next TB service. So I just kept an eye on my oil level and the cardboard to make sure it didn't really change...which it didn't over the next 5+ years before I sold it.

 

well that's good to know. You know these dealerships flag the tiniest stuff. I'm more worried about my cracked dashboard but he didnt say a word about that! haha geee

Anyway, just to show you what I mean.. I disconnected the Brake Fluid level sensor because after I bled my brakes about a month ago, for some reason the light would not go out. And they recommended me to replace the entire master cylinder even though the master cylinder is working fine. They said replace the master cylinder for "safety". But you know, we went 100 years without a brake fluid level sensor and now all of a sudden we need to have it... And brake fluid doesn't change that much. If you check it once a year you will be ok. I can understand having a level sensor for Gasoline..but brake fluid level doesn't hardly change at all! And if it does get low, you will notice something on your pedel. So, I just disconnected the sensor.. It;s just a little continuity gizmo that is normally open. So fortunately, when you disconnect the sensor, it makes it look Open also. So, all is well! It doesn't interfere with anything. I verified in the helm book and looked at the circuitry. And they wanted $800 to repair that... So, I just canceled the Entire service.. And they didnt act like they cared. haha a-holes. In fact, they probably didnt want to do anything, so they tried to scare me off.. And gave me a $6,000 estimate.. All I really had the car in the shop for was Valve Adjustment and valve cover gaskets.. So I just canceled the entire job and the service Rep (Melissa) said ok, we'll button it back up for ya.. and quickly hung up.. haha bitch So I don't think they wanted to do the work.

 

I have a '08 TL Base and recently noticed a slow oil leak under where I park my car. Of course, this happens with age and your seals start to wear out. After taking it to my mechanic to get it looked at, I have most likely an oil pump leak, rear main seal leak, and probably need to replace my valve cover gasket too. Now that would probably cost around $2k for all of that because of the labor. Since my car is only leaking slowly at the moment, I am not going to fix it because it isn't worth it. I love my TL and would love to get a Type-S someday, it's not worth it for me because it is really expensive. The guys at my shop showed me where the leaks were coming from when they lifted the car up. It would be worth it if I had the time and money if I and was trying to restore this car to a pristine condition. I would love to do it, but it's not practical for a broke college student like me right now 😂. I hope the leak will stay slow for the foreseeable future of owing the car, and I hope it doesn't get worse for you too.

*Also, I see that you are in the DFW area and I go to "Danny's Import Service" in Hurst, TX and they are great and honest. I haven't taken my car to a dealer since I got it about a year ago and I recommend these guys since your in the area.

 

Thanks. But ya, I had an old car in college, and I would not be worried about a tiny oil leak either if I was in college. But my "leak" doesn't even hit the concrete and the engine is pretty clean. So I will let it ride for now and keep an eye on it. Thanks for the repair shop tip. I was going to a place in Denton, but it's too far for big stuff because I cant leave my car. Lute riley is like 3miles, close enough to ride my bike. I'm in Richardson. So Hurst is still too far.

 

Yeah, I wouldn't either. I definitely recommend next time your go in for a service to ask to see where the supposed "leaks" are. I got to see when they lifted my car and took photos, it allowed me to make a more informed decision and see where all the leaks were so I can keep an eye on them.

 

Over $400 to replace the cam thrust cover o-rings? Are you kidding me. If you're a DIY guy you can replace those and reseal the PS pump, really not hard at all. There's videos online and you would save a lot of money

 

I would try putting in the blue devil rear main sealer until you get another chance to replace the seals.

 

last week I crawled underneath it to do a single 3-quart drain & fill and I did see quite a bit of oil on the bottom of the transmission. (that's bad) It was not dripping but it was WET all over the bottom of the transmission. But it was only on the bottom. I didnt see any wetness higher up. So, I wiped it off and proceeded with my drain and fill. I popped the drain screw, and I noticed it was not very tight. I was like, HMMM interesting... After my drain and fill, I tightened the drain plug a bit tighter. I never have replaced the Crush washer so I ordered some online. I received the crush washers, and today I just looked underneath it again to do another 3-quart drain and fill and to replace that crush washer, and I noticed it is still bone dry after a week! (That's good)
So, I think I will wait a month or so before I do another drain/fill since I currently do not see any wetness and no leaks, and my fluid is clean.. When the engine heats up there is expansion and if that drain plug is not tight enough, with an old crush washer, it could actually leak a bit. I am guessing. Either way I will monitor it for the next month and replace that crush washer when I do my next drain & fill. crossing fingers it was just a loose-ish drain plug and a crush washer.. Plus last time I added about 1/2 quart more.. Maybe I over filled it? But I think it was low after doing all these drain and fills.. I was getting a burning smell.. I checked my fluid and it is really hard to read that dip stick even within 30 seconds after you turn off the engine.. There is a vent pipe on top of the transmission so if there was too much pressure I wonder if it would push out fluid out the vent? Either way, I never have seen any wetness on top of the transmission.. So, IF there was any added pressure, from being 3.5 quarts, it may have contributed to pushing out the drain plug... only guessing. Ironically, I think the burn smell went away after I added that 1/2 quart more. So Who knows.. But I will monitor for any new wetness

 

So I had a rear main seal leak when I first got my acura at 120k. I was worried and it whistled when I drove at 2.5-3k RPM especially in the cold. So I fixed up the transmission mounts and replace the fluid for the transmission. Added some AT205 to the engine oil and the transmission oil. I have 188k miles now and I try to drive at RPMs that don't make the whistle noise come from the rear main seal (no whistle = no wear IMO) and its been going great! The dealer wanted 3k or something crazy like that to fix the rear main seal. I said screw it and its been running smooooth

 

Power Steering Pump replaced. It did not really need it though.. That's how dealers are.. They see a tiny seep of fluid and the car has 115k miles and they think the world is coming to an end. It may be coming to big change, but the pump could have gone another 50k.. Oh well! it was fun.. haha

https://www.youtube.com/user/MrChad97Z/featured

 

my power steering rack and pump are oozing fluid and grease. Probably gonna change both soon. How much did it end up costing at the dealer though?

 

I declined all work at the dealer. I did replace the pump but not the rack,

I bought these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/40292606435...gAAOSwFlpfH3GI (they changed the post title. it did say ""New Power Steering Pump For 2004-08 Acura 3.2L TL 05-08 Honda Pilot 3.5L 21-5441""
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16373251070...53.m2749.l2649 (sold out now.. but this brand had a crooked spout anyway)
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...nch-61173.html (was onsale for $49 last week)

total = $52, + $49 + $18 + $3 (o-ring for high pressure hose connection at pump)