gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

OK, I determined that there is problem with my wife's rear window regulator. I thought it was the switch, so I took the switch out and switched it for another working window switch from another window. The switch that I thought was not working worked - so it's not the switch.

I rolled down the window using the switch and regulator normally, but it would not roll back up again. So I tested the voltage wiring going to the regulator. I took out the window regulator connector and tested the connector wiring coming from the car. It was 12.XX when I pressed the switch down, and 2.XX - 3.XX something when I pressed the switch up. Why would the voltage be lower when I pull up on the window switch to raise the window?

Long story short, the window is down, and I need to raise it. I have the door panel off and all that, and I'm trying to manually raise the window from inside the door. How do I do that?

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

With the door panel off remove the 2x 10mm bolts that hold the glass to the regulator assembly. I WARN YOU NOW, the glass WILL NOT stay up on it's own. You will need to either find something long enough to sit inside the door frame to hold the glass up in place or use a light adhesive tape to keep it in place. A blue painters paint that isn't going to leave glue marks behind. Window regular and motor come as an assembly. The motor is held on by 3x 10 mm bolts the channel that runs the window up and down is held in by 4x 10 mm bolts. Very easy job, just a helpful hint, on the far left lower side there is a 10mm bolt that is part of the window channel REMOVE that and push the window channel over to give you extra space needed to move out the regulator.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Got it. Thanks bro. Anyone know why the electrical wiring coming to the window regulator motor would draw 12 volts when you lower the window but only 7-8 volts when you try to raise it? That's what I'm getting when I use a voltmeter. I thought it would be 12 when you both raise AND lower it.

Mind you this is not when the motor is connected. It's testing the wiring going TO the regulator motor.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

OK, So I tested the switch. Is there a particular reason why the voltmeter would be showing 9.5V when I press the raise button on the switch, but a solid 12.53V when I press the lower button on the switch?

Also, when I press the raise button on the switch, the voltmeter varies and constantly changes from 9.45V to 9.53V, but when I press the switch to lower the window, it's a solid 12.53 volts and does not change. Why would one change and the other not?

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

No one can tell me why I'm getting less voltage when I try to raise the windows than when I lower them?

csmeance

I have no clue but will check the service manual to see what it has to say about the voltages and such. I'm guessing the voltage is dropping from the regulator trying to draw some extra juice to help get the window back up or something like that.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

True, if the regulator motor would have been attached. That voltage was at the switch connector with no motor attached. That's coming from the car wiring.