Why Wouldn't torque converter lock up
Why Wouldn't torque converter lock up
Happy new years guys
Why woudn't a torque converter lock up ?
1. Car is not at operating Temp.
how many sensors is their in 3 G Tl ? My Guage temp is at opearting temp and my Tq is not locking up
Why woudn't a torque converter lock up ?
1. Car is not at operating Temp.
how many sensors is their in 3 G Tl ? My Guage temp is at opearting temp and my Tq is not locking up
How do you know it's not locking up?
If it's cold and the transmission fluid is cold the ECM would most likely slip the torque conveter to warm it up. The best torque converter in the world will slip even at WOT.
But how do you know for sure yours is NOT locking up?
A-Train
If it's cold and the transmission fluid is cold the ECM would most likely slip the torque conveter to warm it up. The best torque converter in the world will slip even at WOT.
But how do you know for sure yours is NOT locking up?
A-Train
How do you know it's not locking up?
If it's cold and the transmission fluid is cold the ECM would most likely slip the torque conveter to warm it up. The best torque converter in the world will slip even at WOT.
But how do you know for sure yours is NOT locking up?
A-Train
If it's cold and the transmission fluid is cold the ECM would most likely slip the torque conveter to warm it up. The best torque converter in the world will slip even at WOT.
But how do you know for sure yours is NOT locking up?
A-Train
The best way to tell is to have somebody with a diagnostic tool do some data logging for you. In my T-Bird years I would use Auto Tap to data log my runs and dyno pulls. It wasn't the best stuff out there since the update rate was terrible, but it worked.
I still use the Auto Tap to pulls trouble codes from F-L-M cars so it was worth the investment years ago.
You have no CHECK ENGINE light or pending codes stored? Did you pull them?
If your TC is not locking up then the rpms would be higher most of the time.
A-Train
I still use the Auto Tap to pulls trouble codes from F-L-M cars so it was worth the investment years ago.
You have no CHECK ENGINE light or pending codes stored? Did you pull them?
If your TC is not locking up then the rpms would be higher most of the time.
A-Train
The best way to tell is to have somebody with a diagnostic tool do some data logging for you. In my T-Bird years I would use Auto Tap to data log my runs and dyno pulls. It wasn't the best stuff out there since the update rate was terrible, but it worked.
I still use the Auto Tap to pulls trouble codes from F-L-M cars so it was worth the investment years ago.
You have no CHECK ENGINE light or pending codes stored? Did you pull them?
If your TC is not locking up then the rpms would be higher most of the time.
A-Train
I still use the Auto Tap to pulls trouble codes from F-L-M cars so it was worth the investment years ago.
You have no CHECK ENGINE light or pending codes stored? Did you pull them?
If your TC is not locking up then the rpms would be higher most of the time.
A-Train
well its in the midle as usual so i dont think thats the problem. how many sensor are their to mesure the Temp ? the one comming to the Guage is working fine is there any other ?
Like A-train (welcome back!) said, you need to first see if the computer is commanding TCC lockup with a scanner.
If it's commanding lockup but it's not happening, it's likely a solenoid, hydraulic problem, or a burned clutch.
If it's not commanding it, it could be anything from a position switch, brake switch, temp sensor (engine or trans), or the engine/trans is running too cool.
If it's commanding lockup but it's not happening, it's likely a solenoid, hydraulic problem, or a burned clutch.
If it's not commanding it, it could be anything from a position switch, brake switch, temp sensor (engine or trans), or the engine/trans is running too cool.
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I know that it's part of the ULEV system to run the car one gear lower than it should normally be in when it's cold. For example when I leave my house early in the morning it'll stay in second instead of third and will be reving at about 2100 RPM's rather than shifting up. Then once the car is warmed up it'll be in third at around 1300 RPMS
Like A-train (welcome back!) said, you need to first see if the computer is commanding TCC lockup with a scanner.
If it's commanding lockup but it's not happening, it's likely a solenoid, hydraulic problem, or a burned clutch.
If it's not commanding it, it could be anything from a position switch, brake switch, temp sensor (engine or trans), or the engine/trans is running too cool.
If it's commanding lockup but it's not happening, it's likely a solenoid, hydraulic problem, or a burned clutch.
If it's not commanding it, it could be anything from a position switch, brake switch, temp sensor (engine or trans), or the engine/trans is running too cool.
took it to a trans shop
this what he tell me, when i'm in D5 idle the lock up solenoid ON as soon as i hit 1-2 Kph lock up solenoid OFF ??? Wtf no Cel ???
and one more thing the Shift Position
P= Park
R= Invalid
N = park
D = reverse
l = i dont remember
Does it make sence to any of you ??
took it to a trans shop
this what he tell me, when i'm in D5 idle the lock up solenoid ON as soon as i hit 1-2 Kph lock up solenoid OFF ??? Wtf no Cel ???
and one more thing the Shift Position
P= Park
R= Invalid
N = park
D = reverse
l = i dont remember
Does it make sence to any of you ??
this what he tell me, when i'm in D5 idle the lock up solenoid ON as soon as i hit 1-2 Kph lock up solenoid OFF ??? Wtf no Cel ???
and one more thing the Shift Position
P= Park
R= Invalid
N = park
D = reverse
l = i dont remember
Does it make sence to any of you ??

In D5 there's a good chance it thinks you're in neutral.
I have a app next tuesday and will see how it goes.
:< it wasnt the PRND sensor it was the Scanner it self, we tryed other 2 different scanner and it was fine. But one thing we can find is that its saying lock up solenoid Off and i dont have any Cel ? how could it be
Check on the scanner for something like "PWM solenoid %". I'm pretty sure the TL uses a pulse width modulated lockup mechanism which will allow for a gradual lock and/or some slippage.
The best thing at this point is to get a service manual and find out what the sensor and command values should be and go for there.
If the computer is not commanding lockup you have to look at the inputs to determine why. Common inputs that would cause no lock would be a faulty speed sensor (input shaft and output shaft), and faulty temp sensor (trans or engine).
It's hard to say without knowing the car. Some cars use an on/off solenoid in conjunction with a PWM solenoid. Sometimes the solenoid on means the convertor is unlocked and off is locked and sometimes it's the opposite. The solenoid turns on or shuts off hydraulic pressure to the lockup clutch in the convertor. Sometimes it can stick off. In my other car it would fail on and kill the engine when I came to a stop.
Check on the scanner for something like "PWM solenoid %". I'm pretty sure the TL uses a pulse width modulated lockup mechanism which will allow for a gradual lock and/or some slippage.
The best thing at this point is to get a service manual and find out what the sensor and command values should be and go for there.
If the computer is not commanding lockup you have to look at the inputs to determine why. Common inputs that would cause no lock would be a faulty speed sensor (input shaft and output shaft), and faulty temp sensor (trans or engine).
Check on the scanner for something like "PWM solenoid %". I'm pretty sure the TL uses a pulse width modulated lockup mechanism which will allow for a gradual lock and/or some slippage.
The best thing at this point is to get a service manual and find out what the sensor and command values should be and go for there.
If the computer is not commanding lockup you have to look at the inputs to determine why. Common inputs that would cause no lock would be a faulty speed sensor (input shaft and output shaft), and faulty temp sensor (trans or engine).
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