So as the header states, I'm on original rotors, less than 50k miles, only need front pads. Rears are good per inspection.

Should I just get:

1. new pads, resurface rotors
2. new aftermarket drilled rotors (ex. BrakeMotive,etc), pads for just the front (problem don't match rear)
3. replace all rotors, pads (more expense than really necessary)


Thanks for your feedback.

 

Stay far away from drilled rotors.

If the original rotors are fine, no warpage and no lip around the outer edge there's no reason to get them resurfaced. The new pads will bed in fine on the uncut rotors with normal use. You can do a bed in procedure to speed up the process by doing several back to back 60-10mph stops.

No need to do the rears if they don't need it.

If you're worried about the front and rear pads matching just match the friction coefficient to what's on there and you'll be fine. I believe stock is FF. Somewhere on the back of the pads you'll see two letters, either EE or FF. As long as you match the new pads to the originals it doesn't matter if the front and rears are of a different brand, bias will be the same.

 

if you are gonna replace the front pads then i would get the rotors re surfaced no matter what even if they arnt warped just to minimize brake noise due to brake glaze and to give the fresh pads and fresh surface to grab

 

There can be no glaze with new pads, if the old ones were glazed they're gone anyway.

A fresh surface is not necessary as long as the old surface is free of grooves and no lip around the diameter. The old pads' transfer layer goes away extremely quickly and depending on the new pads, the new transfer layer is usually laid down the first time the new pads hit operating temp. In 10 miles the new pads are broken in.

It's personal preference but when the rotors are surfaced you're losing mass. If it's worth the additional cost and labor along with losing a little material to save 10 minutes of break-in that's fine.

 

+1. I just changed my brake pads (front and rear). Didn't see what all the hype was about with re-surfacing rotors (my rotors were in great condition as described by ihc), so I did the job myself, learned how to do it, and saved money. Before and after breaking-in the pads, noise was not a problem even under extremely hard braking, so I think my decision not to touch the rotors was wise. However, I don't track my TL so my definition of extremely hard braking is probably different from someone else's.

Also, as ihc says, don't do the back pads if you don't need to, unless your car has a lot of miles on it. I did mine at 111k, and although both front and back had a decent amount of brake pad left, I decided just to change both of them so I wouldn't have to worry about it later.

 

Keep the rotors.
Put your new pads in.
Drive easy hit a few days. Then bed them in,
Cool them down.
All should be fine
If you do have noisy brakes.
Then replace the rotors.
My brembos are quite.
And I did not replace FRont totors

 

I've never resurfaced my rotors. Just get new pads.

 

Upgrade to a full big brake setup. Only solution. That text is red

 

If you want new rotors and still want "the look", go with slotted rotors, not drilled. Drilled rotors are prone to cracking.

 

I like that idea. I know you were joking but the BBK offers advantages in daily driving for those that drive aggressively from time to time. It allows you to use a less aggressive pad for normal driving and since the larger rotors and larger pads run cooler, you can get away with aggressive driving and less aggressive pads.