What kind of leak do I have?

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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 08:47 AM
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What kind of leak do I have?

Hello fellow members, I just noticed this a few weeks ago. Looks like oil is leaking onto my recently replaced alternator and I'm sure it's shortening the life of it. Anyone know what kind of leak I have? Thank you!
Attached Thumbnails What kind of leak do I have?-img_7178.jpg  
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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Should be sealed, but I would first remove the coil and check to see if tube has oil, and if not, valve cover gasket.
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
Should be sealed, but I would first remove the coil and check to see if tube has oil, and if not, valve cover gasket.

thanks! if it's the valve cover gasket, is that easy to do and can it be done myself?
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 01:22 PM
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It's DIY job just a lot of bolts here and there that must be removed.
Also have to the remove the whole intake assembly and also replace its gasket when putting back on.

Just a time consuming job.
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 01:26 PM
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Make sure you DO NOT over tighten the screws holding the valve cover down. They need very little torque... I think it's like 8 lbft or something. I'm sure you can find the right number somewhere here on AZ.

You'll have bigger problems if you over torque one of the screws.
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 05:15 PM
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Probably is the valve cover gasket but also check the PCV valve
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 11:45 AM
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It's your valve cover gasket. Really a simple job you just need to remove the valve cover and clean around where the gasket sits. Remove any old silicone and brake clean around where the gasket sits once your down cleaning the metal. If you don't properly do this it will leak again and you will be doing it again in 3 months. Also don't over tighten the bolts and break them because you will then have to drill into the cylinder head and heli coil the thing. Which is a bitch to do.

Oh and get the OE gasket. None of that aftermarket shit. They will also leak after a year.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by flyromeo3
It's DIY job just a lot of bolts here and there that must be removed.
Also have to the remove the whole intake assembly and also replace its gasket when putting back on.

Just a time consuming job.

Thank you!
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
Originally Posted by TacoBello
Make sure you DO NOT over tighten the screws holding the valve cover down. They need very little torque... I think it's like 8 lbft or something. I'm sure you can find the right number somewhere here on AZ.

You'll have bigger problems if you over torque one of the screws.

Thanks for the info!
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
Originally Posted by MarcDavidoff
Probably is the valve cover gasket but also check the PCV valve

Thanks, will do!
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonK
It's your valve cover gasket. Really a simple job you just need to remove the valve cover and clean around where the gasket sits. Remove any old silicone and brake clean around where the gasket sits once your down cleaning the metal. If you don't properly do this it will leak again and you will be doing it again in 3 months. Also don't over tighten the bolts and break them because you will then have to drill into the cylinder head and heli coil the thing. Which is a bitch to do.

Oh and get the OE gasket. None of that aftermarket shit. They will also leak after a year.
Thanks for the info, planning to get OE gasket!
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by uneedkhoality
...is that easy to do and can it be done myself?
Maybe. What's your level of comfort? You will have to take off the coil packs, intake manifold and other "bits" before you can remove the covers. Then when you re-assemble you will need a torque wrench and the tightening sequences for re-assembly.

You would also want to look at the other cover to see if it's leaking. It's going to be a bit more work since it's up against the firewall.

I'd also say to get an OEM Gasket set. It will have the gaskets plus the other seals for the bolts and spark plug tubes. Spark plug tube seals can be a PITA to change without damaging them but you may not need them anyway.

THIS VIDEO (the first part) is exactly how it all comes apart. It's a valve clearance video of a 3GTL and you have to get both covers off to do it!

Last edited by Adobeman; Feb 23, 2016 at 12:25 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 12:25 PM
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
Originally Posted by Adobeman
Maybe. What's your level of comfort? You will have to take off the coil packs, intake manifold and other "bits" before you can remove the covers. Then when you re-assemble you will need a torque wrench and the tightening sequences for re-assembly.

You would also want to look at the other cover to see if it's leaking. It's going to be a bit more work since it's up against the firewall.

I'd also say to get an OEM Gasket set. It will have the gaskets plus the other seals for the bolts and spark plug tubes. Spark plug tube seals can be a PITA to change without damaging them but you may not need them anyway.
Taking things apart is the easy part, putting it back together correctly is another! That was going to be my next question, should I just replace the gasket or go ahead and get the kit and replace all the others while I have it opened. Thanks!
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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OP, how many miles? If you're over 100K and the valves have never been adjusted, I'd go ahead and adjust them as long as you have the valve covers off.

When you replace the manifold, there is a specific sequence to use when tightening the bolts. The SM says to replace manifold the gaskets, but I never did and have had no issues. YMMV.

When tightening the valve (cylinder head) cover bolts, use a 1/4" torque wrench and if you hit the stop before reaching the torque value (8.7 ft-lbs), stop there. Ask me how I know And again, there is a specific sequence for these bolts.

Highly recommend a service manual for reference.
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
OP, how many miles? If you're over 100K and the valves have never been adjusted, I'd go ahead and adjust them as long as you have the valve covers off.

When you replace the manifold, there is a specific sequence to use when tightening the bolts. The SM says to replace manifold the gaskets, but I never did and have had no issues. YMMV.

When tightening the valve (cylinder head) cover bolts, use a 1/4" torque wrench and if you hit the stop before reaching the torque value (8.7 ft-lbs), stop there. Ask me how I know And again, there is a specific sequence for these bolts.

Highly recommend a service manual for reference.
I'm at 157K and pretty sure the valves haven't been adjusted. And from watching the video Adobeman posted, i'm a little hesitant to do it myself and even more with the mention of the specific sequence of the bolts from fear of messing things up!
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