Hey Acurazine, so i've owned my TL for about 10 months now since i've purchase it for 3500$ at 155k miles (250 km) and ever since i've done about three transmission fluid changes and changed the 3rd pressure switch. Upon doing the 4th, my mechanic told me theres no point doing it when theres no problem with it so i just left it. My transmission shifts perfectly fine, however, i've noticed through the months of owning this car, you can really feel the gears change as if it slightly sort of "smoothly jerks" i know that doesnt make much sense but yeah its smooth when it shifts but you feel it sort of jerk into the next gear, a very faint jerking.

In addition, whenever im cruising down the road, if i dont keep my gas pedal hovering around 2000-2200 rpm, the gear doesnt change into it and the rpm just drops as i release the gas pedal. When i do keep my gas pedal hovering at the 2000-2200 rpm range, it shifts into second gear. Other than this problem the car drives and shifts fine.

Also, whenever the car hasnt warmed up yet, the transmission with make a thud noise if i left go of the gas pedal before it gets into gear.

ALSO, to add to this, it generally takes my car like 0.5 seconds or so it actually engage into the reverse gear when i shift it from drive. Whenver i drive my dads rdx, the tranny shifts into D to R in an instant.

Can ANYONE please explain to me why i'm experiencing these problems? Should i do another tranny fluid change? should i change my 4th gear pressure switch? Are these signs that my tranny is going to die?
Whenever i drive my dads acura RDX turbo, the transmission is so smooth and quick. Is this becuase my transmission is old and i need to just replace it? What are the signs of tranny failure? PEople always says it slips but i dont know how to actually tell that.

My mechanic has driven my car and said it drives perfectly fine so im not sure what this is. Is this just the nature of the glass tranny of the TL's?

Please Help! All advice welcome!

 

yes change the pressure switches, most of the symptom you describe can be fixed after replace the switches. About the P-R-N-D its normal according to Honda spec. Just tell him to do the work and you paying the labor or you can show him this.

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...lained-926831/

 

Everything you described sounds like typical Honda automatic behavior

Both of my TL's have a delay when shifting into D or R. Same with past Honda Accords. They're never instant engagement, from my experience

Check engine mounts for possible causes of noises

 

OP,

I'm sorry but I can't make heads or tails from what you've said bc it sounds like both heads and tails.

If you keep the rpms at the said 2000-2500 rpms it's not going to shift until you reach a certain speed. The trans doesn't shift by just a certain rpm. There's a lot to consider, like speed, load, rpm, etc. It kinda sounds like to me that you're inbetween gears and/or lugging your engine little bit.

You can check the transmission's shifting by accelerating from a dead stop to top gear speeds in one constant continuous smooth acceleration. Not too fast but not to slow either (light-medium load). The trans should go from one gear to the next without hesitation.

When the trans slips, the vehicle will loose all if not most accelerations and the rpm will just rev as if you were in park or neutral but you're still in a gear. AKA a Flair.

The delayed shifting from park to D/R. Like I said can't really tell if that's normal or not. You would be the only person to really know for sure. However, to me the fact that you went through the trouble to start a new thread kinda tells me that you're experiencing something. What it is exactly I'm not sure.

I do know this, it's going to cost you about $600-$700 to change 4 solenoids to see any improvement.

So how's it shifting now? Lol

You need to do 3x3 within a 30-40K miles and change the trans filter.

When it comes to these trans it's all about the ATF - flow, pressure, and timing (solenoids).

I recommend DW1 unless you're experiencing issues. Meaning the ATF/trans filter is clean and been clean all along.

 

Like 01acls said.. If you do not use DW1, you will have problems! I used too much racing fluid once, it would barely shift into gear. So, you have to go back with DW1... Then start it and let it work its way through the system.. Put the transmission in gear.. then park.. then reverse.. then drive.. Then slowly, easily drive it around the block and get the fluid moving. It could take a little longer than expected to get the fluid fully circulated to the point the transmission shifts properly. Be patient with it as you clear out that non-oem fluid.

by the way, these transmissions can act a little strange at times.. like upshifting a bit early as you come to a stop. Some of that characteristic is fluid rated, or even old oem fluid, but the other half is just how it operates normally. So dont fret too much if you feel it shifting when you come to a stop or slow way down.

by the way, my car is slow-ish to go into reverse from drive also. Thats how these transmissions run. Like half a second is normal!..UNfortunately.!
.

 

when it makes a hard thud when changing gears, the trans is near the end of it's service life...

This is what you do BEFORE you spend any money on new switches

remove the solenoid packs and clean them
remove the pressure switches and clean them
3x drain and fill
if there is a lot of crud or is has been a very long time since last fluid change then I would also do
change inline filter on trans (on top of housing for some TL04 for sure and some 05 cars)
after 100 miles remove solenoid packs and clean them again

 

Its ok to replace those 2 switches before any of that other stuff. Switches are not that expensive. Plus, if it is having problems going into gear, I would first make sure you have the right fluid. Then go from there. If it already has DW1 fluid then I would replace the switches. You don't have to clean anything first. But you can. It's not "required".. the 2nd and 3rd gear switches are easily accessible too.. Like behind the drivers tire.

 

I'd still clean it first and then replace if needed Sure it's only $100 for them on average but cleaning is F R E E

 

Biggest thing you can do to help your tranny, is avoiding downshifting from 4 directly into 2... This happens if you are cruising in 4th gear, at say 45mph, and you floor it... The ECU will typically downshift directly into 2nd gear in this situation... The problem with this, is that the Honda 5AT will drag the 3rd gear clutch pack while doing this, causing premature wear on the 3rd gear clutchpacks, which is the real problem with the tranny... I religiously flushed the tranny every 20k miles with Redline, and regularly replaced the 3rd and 4th gear switches, but I still had 2 failed transmissions.

If you need to step on it and pass somebody while cruising in 4th at 45mph or so, use the paddle shifters if you have them, or use manual mode, and shift into 3rd first than 2nd if necessary.