koshia

Hi Guys,

Love my '07 TL-S, but i'm starting to run into problems now and i'm getting a bit worried.

I did a 3x3 flush last year with Redline ATF+mixture of racing lightweight. After the flush, the car started shifting better from 3rd to 4th - but just a few weeks ago, it started to almost skip 3rd gear. Going from 2nd to 3rd @ 25-35 mph and between 2-3.5K RPM.

When it gets to 4th (roughly @ 35-40 MPH), it seems to struggle to accelerate. Then sometimes, when the car goes from 4th to 3rd there's a very hard jerk. If I hit the brakes fast, the jerk's not there, but if I ease on the brakes the jerk is unbearable.

I'm thinking about going to my mechanic and having them change out the 3rd + 2x 4th pressure switch and do a straight 12qt Flush. I already spent money on these parts -- should I do it or just bring it into Acura?

It's at 73K and out of basic warranty - has power-train till 100K.

I need advice. Thank you all!

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

That's why I would only put oem fluid(it has improved)..my old auto starting shifting and downshifting 100times smoother after only a 3x3....



If you have the parts,try it out....if you handy you can do the pressure switches yourself...if it doesn't help..might have to rebuild the tranny

pohljm

Look a little harder into the mileage warranty, I believe there was a class action lawsuit that extended the mileage due to the speedometer reading to fast. You may still be just under the wire. I know it was extended on my 06!

koshia

I believe the lawsuit has since settled and also expired. Even if it wasn't I would not be covered - I think it's only 5% of the 3 or 5 year mileage which equates to roughly 55K.

I'm 20K past that.

koshia

Thank you for your suggestion; however, I did quite an extensive research from this forum and from many well-known posters that the Redline ATF + mixture (if you're in cold climate) should be fine. My 3x3 went fine - it just started to have problems now, which i'm thinking due to the pressure switch (known to have problems after ~2 years of use) is breaking down.

I ordered it and will have somebody change it out for me this weekend, but I wanted to know if anyone had any opinions on what it could else be or have experienced what i'm going through before.

akaczr

I had the same symptoms 08 5AT plus similar hard 2>3 shift. Did a 3x3 and changed out the switches but the problem came back quickly. Took it to the dealer and getting a new transmission under warranty. If you easily re-create the problem, carefully write down the instructions and give it to the dealer and let them diagnose it. IMO, no need to throw more money at it if you have done the 3x3.

pohljm

on my 06 the trans was warrantied till 70K drivetrain standard and was extended due to the lawsuit. It does not matter if it was settled! They had to add additional mileage to the total to compensate all owners as part of the settlement. Mine was replaced under warranty. you need to persue this further unless your fine paying big dollars!

I hate cars

If you have the parts already, definitely have the switches replaced.

To be safe, if you do another drain and fill, use Redline D4, Amsoil ATF, or any Dex III fluid. Not likely the issue but it's one variable out of the way.

Can you describe the issue in more detail? It sounds like the torque converter clutch is locking up too soon and/or not unlocking when it should. When it has the issue, is the engine bogging down with a lack of power and low rpms or is it flaring with high rpms?

How does it shift at full throttle? The switches and torque converter clutch are pretty much out of the picture at full throttle.

I would definitely exhaust all efforts to diagnose and fix it before taking it to Acura because they will tell you that you need a new trans by default. They don't really do diagnostics. If the powertrain warranty covers it, you might as well take it in, get a "new" trans and have your new pressure switches installed since they occasionally tend to carry the old switches over.

You can't rule out that it has a harsh downshift due to the switches being old and also an engine related issue like stuck EGR valve during acceleration. You are running premium fuel, right?

I know all of this is pretty vague but we will get it narrowed down with a few more details.

koshia

Most definitely will be doing a 1x3 D4 next. I'm trying to get a hold of Redline to see if I can exchange my 12qt i bought last week for the D4s instead.

I'm not quite sure if it is flaring - at least I didn't know what it was until tonight after reading Inaccurate's posts. I will keep an eye on it tomorrow. As far as power - From 1st to 2nd - normal acceleration. From 2nd to 3rd, normal acceleration; however, often it would rev another 500 rpm (to 2.5-3K) and then kick into 4th instead of the usual 3.5K-4K before using redline. I expect this portion is due to Redline at work for smoother shifting... Once the car kicks into 4th gear, i'm at around 35MPH and trying to get to 60MPH but it seems like the engine is bogged down. 4th to 5th is normal.

Do you mean gas it full on 5th gear? This I have not tried... But if you mean spirited driving, I will keep track tomorrow.

I am thinking about scheduling and bringing it in, just because I am moving this weekend (just bought our first house, so this did not come in a good time). It is covered until 100K - but will the new tranny be worse off later is what i'm wondering. Definitely will be switching out the pressure switch + d4 flush if i end up getting new transmission.

That was my first impression was the pressure switches. I meant to do it last year on my 3x3, but ended up not because of funding. Yes, I am running on 91.

Thank you for your assistance. Very much appreciate your time and everyone else's time on this!

I do have a question that another poster had on a similar thread, but it was never really answered: Should I flush the fluid with d4 before I bring it in to the dealer? By now, i've gone 15K from the 3x3 last year. I would guess not since it will be darker than **** by now and additives not so much there.

Inaccurate

I agree with what "I Hate Cars" said.

Your problem does Not sound like the problem caused by too much Racing ATF.

But, This is what I recommend. As soon as possible, buy 3 quarts of Redline D4. Do a single drain and refill using the 3 quarts of D4.

If your are in a hurry and don't want to wait for the D4, go to an automotive store and get 3 quarts of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF. Do the single drain and refill with the Mobil1.

After doing the single drain and refill with 3 quarts of either D4 or Mobil1 ATF, you will know immediately (after about 5 miles of driving) if this fixed your problem.

If you still have the same problems after the refill, your problems are unrelated to the Racing ATF. But like "I Hate Cars" said, you must do this single refill just to eliminate this variable.

If you still have the problem after the refill, follow steps to get the trans replaced. At NO TIME, NEVER EVER, MENTION THAT YOU PUT THE RACING FLUID IN IT. Just say that you had the ATF changed in attempts to fix your current problem.

Inaccurate

Ok, now this DOES sound like the problem from too much Racing ATF. Do like I recommended in my post above before pursuing any other action. Please let us know the results after you do the single refill. Will advise from there.

Inaccurate

Related Reading -

The Optimal Percentage of Racing ATF (click here)

I hate cars

I don't know how to interpret that. Does it shift a little earlier than it used to or does it shift a little later than it used to? I've been up for way too long to actually think tonight lol.

I fully agree to never admit to using anything but Z1 or DW-1. They can't deny warranty for a non OEM fluid (though they will try) but they can surely give you a hard time and make you work for warranty coverage.

Koshia, how does it shift if you just floor it from a dead stop and let it shift up through the gears?

It can be something as simple as a TCC solenoid malfunctioning to excessive wear causing low line pressure or damaged clutch linings with reduced holding power and the symptoms you're seeing.

How does the fluid look right now?

koshia

You're not the only one brain dead at this weee-hours. I should have clarified. It is shifting earlier than what it used to. I remember before when it kept hanging at 3.5K RPM on 3rd gear before going to 4th... now it just shifts at 2.5K. I gave Inaccurate my shifts/sequence but I'm not 100% positive until I record the controls tomorrow. I'll let you know.

I fully agree to never admit to using anything but Z1 or DW-1. They can't deny warranty for a non OEM fluid (though they will try) but they can surely give you a hard time and make you work for warranty coverage.

Koshia, how does it shift if you just floor it from a dead stop and let it shift up through the gears?
You know... I did this when it first jerked on the downshift. I figure it's just choking so just give it all she got and it shold be fine... well it shifted like a champ, but I haven't done it lately (kind of scared). I will do it tomorrow. I can handle the early shifts... its the 4th to 3rd downshift with the jerk is what makes me grind my teeth.

It can be something as simple as a TCC solenoid malfunctioning to excessive wear causing low line pressure or damaged clutch linings with reduced holding power and the symptoms you're seeing.
My buddy previously owned a Diamante and his solenoid went bad and had the same symptom...

How does the fluid look right now?
Not quite sure, I was planning on changing my yearly amsoil and do the flush to find out, but it's going to be put on hold until I can get the D4 or Mobile 1. I'm thinking it shouldn't be too bad, given that typically 20-25K miles before you have to change it out - i've only done 60% of that. I am; however, following your method of yearly flush.
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That's it.. i'm going to bed. I'll post more tomorrow. TY ALL!

koshia

Sorry guys... I have been moving and have not paid attention to this post. So far I have left my car alone until the moving is done and then I will take closer look and return with the results.

Sorry for the delay.

oneglory

I've just experienced some bogging when trying to pull away from a stop with my 07 TL-S 5AT @ 120k.

I assume I should start with the 3x3 with DW-1 and pressure switches yes?

koshia

Sorry fellas, I wanted to let the new tranny oil sit and seep before I posted any updates.

I ended up doing a flush and putting back in a dot4/racing mix. I also had the pressure switch changed out. At first -- the first week of driving, I did not notice any difference; however, after two weeks the results are:

The shifting has gotten a lot better and less jerky on acceleration now; however, I am still experiencing some jerkiness from 4th down to 3rd gear. It's not happening that often like before and the jerk does seem a bit softer now.

Since the problem has not been fully resolved by the replacement of the pressure switchers, I called into my dealership and made an appointment. They're going to drive with me and check it out. I still have the power train warranty - but diagnostics is 140 bucks. Dealership said to plan on paying that much if there is no power train problem.

Does everything above sound right to you guys (in terms of testing procedures and what I did). Have I missed anything? Reason i'm asking is I really don't want to pay 140 bucks and find out there's nothing wrong and it's just my sense of insecurity.

Thanks!

koshia

Just a status update.

On the previous post I meant to say a D4 + Racing mix (not dot4).

When I posted the thread up last week, the problem still existed. I don't know if it's because of the 100 degree weather outside, but things have improved quite wonderfully. The down shift from 4th to 3rd is still jerky; however, not as bad as before and it is happening less and less frequently.

I don't know if it's safe to say that it is because of the pressure switches yet, but I'm thinking it is. My TACH does not show any signs of flaring now that I have taken a closer look at it. I will slowly transition from the D4/Racing/Lightweight racing to just plain D4 as soon as the fluid runs out for Racing/Lightweight. It was too costly to ship back and a waste to just throw, it should not hurt if I just mix 2xD4 x1 racing or lightweight (I hope).

Thanks you guys!.